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I decided my 9 year old 87K miles Octavia no longer needs to go to the stealers, and I'll DIY from now on. So for the first time, oil and filter change (very simple), air filter (very simple, done that before, the Skoda interval seems too long..), cabin filter (that latch is a pain but done it before also), spark plugs (so I bought the pull tool from eBay, helped a bit I guess, but still felt uncomfortable at the force needed to pull the coilpacks out.....all good though. All four old plugs a little rusty on the threads and some squeaking as they were unscrewed...yeuch...but it is what it is). Greased the hinges and checked the levels, lights, tyres etc. Took a couple of hours, saved a fortune. Took some photos and have the parts receipts for the records... By how much have I devalued the car, if at all, for a potential buyer?

I've had good luck using a small impact wrench/driver, keep it on a low enough setting so it just sits there and gives it a good rattling to free things up. The vibrations might help

It's sorted. Was a piece of glass lodged in it from when my window broke last year. I did end up taking the casing off though but it's back together ok. Getting the seat base out and back in was the most awkward bit.

The Golf R is a strong scally-magnet. I know someone near me who had one and he had three different attempts to steal if off his drive. (His was also an estate) He loved the car but got rid of it eventually as he couldn't be doing with the aggro.

Had an email from Bristol Street Motors regarding pre-reg Nissan Leaf N-Connecta @£15000 A solid colour (Red) but not much else available for the price. Admittedly an outdated vehicle (CHAdeMO), but a decent home charged commuter option ?

It's all personal choice in my opinion. Some people won't touch it with a bargepole, others will prefer a diy serviced car. I've recently completed my first diy service on my 2017 245, which I plan on running it until it dies. I know everything has been done, I have receipts to prove everything that has been changed. If it was a new car that I was going to trade in after a few years then I'd stick with a garage service history personally, but if its a car you love and plan on keeping then diy it.

Even subtracting further 5Nm from the lower value to be safe for caution, you should be OK with 30Nm torque for undoing, these are M10 plugs. Also, even if it does not appear to move, if the glow plug is surrounded with oil, applying some sensible torque might allow oil to penetrate deeper in the thread

I suspect you will have to get much more brave.

What a shame as the other one which sold was loaded with all the best extras. Stick with it @Gaz there will be a decent one. Having owned a Stage 1 VRS and 245 GTI, I know the 272/280 are more spacious, relaxing to drive and will easily beat them away from a standing start. The FWD cars simply can't put their power down. However, the slight downside is that the 272 and I think the older 280 have less torque. Easily solved by a stage 1 map and the DSG box will handle the extra load. I think the 280 has a 6 speed DSG, vs the 7 speed in the 272. If you can get a 18/19 reg I think they were under £40K for the cheaper road tax

No rubbing at all. Compared to the factory size (235/40r19), this size (245/40r19) is more comfortable, more affordable, better availablity (more brand choices), and speedo is more accurate. Many Superb owners have made this switch. Highly recommended.

Shake it to death

I built this example L&K spec up while the configurator was available. Yes its the 1.5 TSi + electric car-card-C99L98YY.pdf

CBZA/CBZB engine with chain timing, I'd bet.

Welcome. Does this Roomster euro 5 emission 2014 1.2 TSI actually have a cambelt and not a timing chain?

Your question includes the answer you are looking for?

Last week I retrofitted a VC to my Superb 2.0 tdi MY18. Because the info on this subject is scattered all over this and other forums I decided to bundle it into a how-to. First of all a big thank you to RomanB, langers2k, Richie2019 and Camarao69 for the help with coding and with finding the correct parts. Before you start, make sure your car is able to do the retrofit. As I understand it, you will need a Mib 2.5 and also the correct gateway to be able to have a map display in the VC. If the part number of your gateway starts with 3Q0 it should work. Maybe also with other part numbers, but you will have to check. You can check the part number of your gateway with VCDS. What about Amundsen? I have read that with certain types of Amundsen it should also be able to show maps on VC. But coding is a bit different. And, as I don’t have Amundsen, I can’t really tell. I ordered the VC on ali: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001320853346.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 This VC comes with the optical MOST cable you will need for display of maps on the VC. Before you order, send the seller a message and ask for a discount. Also ask for him to declare a lower value (+/- 100 dollar) to customs. I paid around 60 euro import tax based on this value. If you have the CANTON sound system, you will need a Most splitter. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001590588805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 Or https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33003652246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dysj90l (about the MOST splitters: I ordered both, but you will only need one of them. The first link looked like the better quality item, but it had 2 male connectors and 1 female. What you need is 1 male and 2 female connectors. The VC came with a spare female connector, so I used this spare connector to convert the splitter into 1 male and 2 female. It’s easy, just mind the arrows on the connector. They depict the data stream direction. The item from the second link is ready to be installed and does not need to changed. However just eyeballing it, it did not look as good as the one in the first link.) Vag audio removal tools: You need 4 pieces. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001502327510.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61f03aa8VhZ892&algo_pvid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254&algo_expid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254-0&btsid=0bb0624716157231348261767efc60&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Trim removal tools: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32963954415.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.477d61553u3Dn4&algo_pvid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc&algo_expid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc-0&btsid=0bb0623d16157232258103800e5d6b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ And a Vas5054a for pairing the keys to the cluster via remote coding. Links to a Vas5054a come and go. They don’t work for long. Look on ali and read the reviews. Disregard complaints about the software as you will not need to install it. Often there are choices in quality. Choose the best one available. Bluetooth is not necessary, I just used a usb cable. And you will also need a windows laptop. I also ordered a screen protector for the mib 2.5 and for the VC. Just to protect them while do the installation: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32931529165.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p and https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001805982326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p And of course you will also need a VCDS-cable or a similar device. Wait until the parts arrive and, in the meantime, find an online coding service for pairing the keys to new cluster, remove component protection and to set the odometer to the correct setting. I used: Vag retrofit and Coding. Telegram: https://t.me/vagretrofit Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vagretrofitcoding/ Cost: 75 euro for 2 keys and 100 euro for 3 keys. Maybe there are cheaper/better alternatives, but this worked for me. The VAS 5054a comes with software. You do not have to install this software for use with a online coding service. You will only need to install TeamViewer. Before you start tinkering: Make an autoscan with VCDS and save the log to your computer. This saved my ass, because after the online coding of the VC, my sunroof lost it’s coding. With the autoscan available it was easy to fix. I also made screenshots from every byte of my old cluster, using the long coding helper (example, of just one byte, below) With this, it’s easier to setup the VC. See the service manual how to unclip the various trim parts. There is a certain sequence in releasing the clips. Before I used the online coding service, I installed the MOST cable. It was a pain. The wires behind the Mib unit in the glovebox were too short. So I needed to dismount the entire glovebox to get access.I connected the MOST splitter to the existing MOST cable and the new MOST cable. Removed the Mib headunit and old cluster to pull the new MOST cable in place. If you don’t have CANTON there may be a protective cover over the MOST connector on the Mib. After you have pulled the MOST cable into position, reconnect your Mib headunit. It needs to be connected while the online coding is being done. This it to remove component protection. Also reconnect your old cluster. You will need it connected at the start of online coding. I also tested my audio, just to be sure it was working after the MOST splitter install. A video which gives an idea how to remove the cluster: (the screws are behind the left and right trim parts. Not under the center one) A picture from pulling the cable: After all this you can start with the online coding process. Have all you keys readily available. It took 2 full hours in my case. When you install the VC, make sure to remove the grey protector in the MOST connector on the VC: After the online coding you can start your car, but your dash will light up with faults because of the lack of coding. Coding the cluster: I now took all my screenshots of the long coding from my old cluster to code the VC. Just one note: Leave Byte 0 bit 1 unchecked. It will give an ‘’entry out of range” error message if you try to code it. After you coded everything in, the error messages will disappear. Just take caution with your fuel gauge and make sure it is accurate so you don’t run out of fuel. My fuel gauge tends to read fuller than with the old cluster so I don’t trust it yet and may change the coding on it. Coding 5F (mib): Long coding: Uncheck byte 22 bit 0: Make sure MOST is on (for non CANTON cars) Byte 19 bit 5 Adaptation (5F): For imaging through MOST: - ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF - ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On - ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On - ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 - ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On - ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On For the Virtual Cockpit menu on the MIB: - IDE11524-ENG137043-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45, Activated - IDE11524-ENG137044-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45_msg_bus, Comfort data bus - ENG122227-ENG142087-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142088-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_clamp_15_off, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142089-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_over_threshold_high, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142090-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_standstill, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142091-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_after_disclaimer, Not Activated Now restart the MIB. (hold power button until it reboots) You now have the normal dial VC: If you want to have the carbon look: 17 – instrument, adaptation: - IDE12467-Tubes illustration, Variant 3 - IDE02489-Display depiction, Variant 1 or 3 (can’t remember which one) If you want to change the end value of your speedometer because of reasons: 17 – instrument, adaptation: IDE13094-Tachometer end value. I used setting Variant 1 for 280kmph. Might be different for MPH. Trim Piece I needed I new trim piece which is now on order. As I understood the partnumber you need can be easily obtained. Note the partnumber on the white label of your old trim piece. In my case 3V0 857 053 N77. N77 is the colour code for my trim piece. To obtain the part nr for the new trim piece just add an ‘A’ after 053. So in my case: 3V0 857 053A N77 is the part nr for the new trim piece. There is also the possibility to fit new MFSW buttons with a VIEW button. - 3V0 919 719 E (manual) - 3V0 919 719 F (DSG) - 3V0 919 719 G (manual + heated) - 3V0 919 719 H (DSG + heated) I've been told that DSG versions work in manual cars and that heated versions work without heated wheels. I did not fit these buttons yet so I do not know if these part numbers are fully correct. If there are any omissions or errors please do tell. Also feel free to add more adaptations.

Hello there 🙂 introducing my 2011 skoda superb estate mk2 1.6 tdi greenline in rosso brunello. It's a UK reg lhd, imported from the Netherlands, bought in January. I'm currently living in Southampton in the UK and I'll permanently leave the country later this year, so I was looking for a lhd estate to drive to Portugal. I'm really pleased with the car, it's my first skoda and I'm surprised about the build quality, reliability, fuel efficiency, comfort... Already got some mods planned, will keep you guys updated.

yes, you're correct, the previous threads revealed if the gear housing is WHITE then I will need 3Q0713128, if its a BLACK housing then i will need 5Q0713128A.

Take the rubbers completely out, then slide the carriers on and clamp them up, then cut the rubbers to fit in around the carriers mounting plates/points. Don't throw away the bits of rubber left over though, as then you can pop those bits back in to make a complete length, if removing the carriers and leaving the bars on the roof.

The gurgling sound is air in the coolant going to the heater matrix behind the dash. Would need to know other symptoms to help diagnose what’s causing the coolant loss. Lots of things could be causing it

Yes, Killwinning Fire was at a Battery Recycling Center, not a 'Breakers Yard', I noticed that too. However I expect the point he was trying to make was that the result could be similar to a car park that had a load of EV cars in it, which will be the case in the fullness of time as more and more ICE are sent to the scrapyard and replaced with EV's be they new or 2nd hand ones. The irony is to me at least that the government's own standing in the banning of any EV's in their own Westminster car parks and the Fire Dept in Liverpool, is flying full in the face of their big push towards the electrification of traffic and complete ban on the sales of new ICE in 2035. It sort of will be making drivers of EV's 2nd class citizens by preventing them using current underground or multi story car parks.

On the Yeti, Skoda fitted both 205/55R16 and 215/60R16 to 7J rim widths. On all of the Skoda cars over the years, Skoda fitted both 205/55R16 and 215/60R16 to 6J, 6.5J, and 7J rim widths. Hence, 7J is the widest rim that Skoda have fitted 205/55R16 and 215/60R16 to over the years. 6.5J is probably the most common rim width that Skoda have fitted 205/55R16 and 215/60R16 to over the years. The Scala fits its 205/55R16 to 6J rims, and the Karoq fits its 215/60R16 to 6J rims.

The latest in Car Parks and EV vehicles. Despite what some say about electric vehicles in comparison to diesel and or petrol, the nations fire services and also government are extremely concerned and this the result. I expect that we will see this spreading.

I'm not sure, but one of my colleagues wrote here that all Fabia cars from 2018 have GPF... but I don't know how to check it. Can this be checked, for example, using VCDS? Or by decoding the VIN?

Yeah, I agree, but that’s not a failing of the tyres. People here and elsewhere have slated the Pirelli P7’s as being poor in the wet but, apart from high noise levels in the car, I found them to be fine. I only changed them for all seasons because we travel to Donegal in the winter and weather there can be treacherous, especially on their B equivalent roads. I remember I bought a set of….. wait for it - Infinity Ecomax - on the MKII and they were bloody great. Quiet, great in the dry and wet. I remember I had to do a big emergency stop on the M25, in the rain and there was no drama. They were £50 a pop.

There are now adapters that can fit a Chademo end in to a CCS one so less worries there.

Try using Waze it shows speed and delays.

No hidden content^^^ Great that it can be charged at up to 11 kW AC and 50 kW DC. If the Usable battery size is 21 kWh (Are they saying 23 kWh usable?) then 3 miles a kWh might well be achievable so around 60 miles, as 3.6 miles a kWh to get near 77 miles would need pretty perfect circumstances. Like a WLTP regime run, and not real world as on roads. Remember, annual / fixed regime oil and filter changes.

Nope, the 215/60/16 has a significantly higher sidewall, Read again, I said one of the highest side-walls, higher than any of the 17" wheels, that's why so many people tried to get 16" wheels fitted at build for a more comfortable ride

Still live on the website. That's pretty slow of them. 😞

Yes I use this one, the usb stick version. I have it since January and it is flawless. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EG8gSfl If you want one that dors AA and carplay, then this one, the 5.0 version https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQqCuZD

It breifly appeared in the configurator this week but its gone again. Probably someone enabled the model too early.

Fair. I also considered the Golf R estate for exactly that reason. Ultimately, it was that bit smaller than the Octavia and I would have been much more worried about it getting nicked as well as significantly higher insurance premiums!

I was having this exact same debate 12 months ago. I might have gone for a Superb but I really wanted an estate and could only find hatches within budget at the time. I ended up with a 2019 Octavia VRS 245 estate and couldn’t be happier. Huge amounts of space, really nice to drive, quick but not blisteringly so (remap pending this summer), 45 MPG on a steady run (I have averaged 36 in 12 months) and a great looking car. Certainly worth considering.

Both trips were for weddings so a good excuse to go. First time was 7 years ago and we toured North and South Islands. This time we stayed in the Queenstown area and were able to do boat trips, including the jet boat, that we didn't do last time. Arthur's Pass is stunning - trouble is going round every corner presented a new photographic opportunity! One of the great things about NZ is that you can park easily (and usually free) in beautiful spots e.g. down by a lake and often they'd be few people there - over here it would be rammed!

It all depends on what you want/need to do. There are some special tool you might want such as a a brake calliper rewind tool, unless you have drums on the back. I'm not sure about your front callipers, you may need a 7mm (hex) allen socket to remove slider pins. Being petrol a spark plug socket and feeler gauges (for the gap) will be useful to. If you need to do suspension work then a ball joint splitter and maybe spring compressors. However I didn't need them for my Fabia. I could be sarcastic and say all you need to fix it is WD-40 and Duct tape! 😛 In saying that I can remember being told that to work on an old mini all you needed was 2 (imperial) spanners.

I see no reason why tyre pressure is tied in with users so I agree. For thamestrader. If you tell the car that S-Pin isn't required for primary user then it won't ask every time you get in. It will tie the login to the key. For example when I get it it doesn't ask which user or for an S-Pin it just says "Welcome Logiclee" Saves all the hassle.

Clairebell - you've had some good advice and suggestions above. I would go for 60 profile on your standard wheels as well. Just buy some and see how you get on. I've had several Subarus as well which are designed for plenty of gravel track use and they used to fit Yokohama Geolandars then Bridgestone Duelers. They've finally just moved to road Falkens for the latest UK model Crosstrek (XV) because I guess their customer base has changed to wanting standard SUVs.

Useful information. There is a couple of threads on the Skoda Kamiq forum about this. https://www.kamiqforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=116#:~:text=I can confirm that the,head restraint to be removed. https://www.kamiqforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=135 I was pleased to see how easy it was to adjust the HEIGHT of my Fabia's front seat headrests (via a release-button on the side of the headrest) but I've yet to attempt removing a headrest + its 'pillars'. Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HxBLI8p5gY

Yes indeed. Let me be the first to ever type these words on the internet. I was wrong.

Release bearing, I think.

Engine code will say more,

Nope, the 215/60/16 has a significantly higher sidewall, I changed from the former (winter rims) to the latter (new tyres) yesterday. To Clairebelle, I much prefer the ride and comfort on the 215/60 tyres, they are fine on 7" wide rims, that is the homologated factory fitment, I'm confused as to why Carlston would say the 7" rim is too wide for the 215 tyre yet he says it is OK for the narrower 205 tyre.

Hoping to do another roadie down there end of this year. Driving down the west coast the crossing Arthur's Pass to Christchurch is an amazing drive. 10/10 would recommend!

The higher octane petrols also generally have higher levels of cleaning additives which you may feel give additional benefits. As you have a more sporty engine you may wish to take advantage of that by sticking to the required 98 (+) octane petrol, as stated it "can increase the power and reduce the fuel consumption". Why bother having a higher powered engine and not run it on the recommended rating of fuel and have "slight power loss" and "slightly increased fuel consumption" other than only having 95 available as a top up to get you to the next available 98 fuel, or cost, in which case why have a sporty engine.

Changing battery causes a lot of lights that usually dissappear after few kilometres. By my experience, solving problem on modern cars by "hit and miss" method is really expensive. This are very sensitive machines with a million sensors. Without some kind of OBD diagnostic analysis (you can find cheap ones on ebay or Aliexpress) it's simply walking in the dark blindfolded.

I see the PHEV models are now available in the UK Configurator. Looks like PHEV estate prices start at £41,675 for a SE Technology with no options. https://cc.skoda-auto.com/gbr/en-GB/

Nice Yes, my source had a miscount. Fort William has been open for a while, I saw it open when I was route planning a few weeks ago. Aberdeen opening up is new. Their price has also dropped slightly (compared to a few weeks ago). Charging membership cost has also dropped, now £9. But on the other hand, they just laid off whole supercharger team, 500 people. On the bright side, one of higher up person is now working at Ionity. So hopefully some of those 500 people will bring knowledge to other companies. https://www.speakev.com/threads/tesla-conducting-more-layoffs-including-entire-supercharger-team.184644/

To follow this up I have this working quite well now using this set of instructions. https://core-electronics.com.au/guides/detect-speed-raspberry-pi/ I did upgrade to a Pi 4b with more memory. It's taken some tweaking but it is producing pretty reliable results now. In contact with the community council initially to see what can be done with the data. One of our regular little neds - The red box is the detection area. The green box is the object detected. the green box doesn't always surround the car sometimes it picks up on a part, or lights for instance. the system doesn't detect cars as such, it detects moving objects and tracks the object through the detection area comparing frames. It has some known values taken from a reference calibration image which it useses to calculate the speed.

Interesting that it appeared to perform better even under severe extended long term load tests above 150°c than thicker oils. As an ex race engine builder I have never followed the recieved wisdom regarding oil pressure, at one time everyone blindly believed 10psi per 1K RPM, things have moved on a little, I have always seen oil pressure as back pressure = less flow and power losses through pumping, as long as there is sufficient oil passing through the crankshaft bearings to create the hydrodynamic cushion then the lower the pressure and greater the oil flow through the dry sump and oil cooler system the better. You only need 0.05 bar(0.75psi) to get oil to the valve train, less actually, that figure is for water 😁