Leaderboard

Thrilled to share a major milestone! We've officially launched the first ever vRS Owners Club in the UAE. We've got a strong foundation of 24 members already, and the hunt's on to expand the pack! Check out some pics from a recent meet-up.

Driving education in Australia (and UK) is pretty bad! Totally unlike the thorough driving student education required in Scandanavian countries. Once you pass your basic driving test you pretty well learn through the school of experiences survived and hard knocks, which is really not the best way. Do yourself a favour and enrol in a one-day Defensive Driving course where you will first learn on a track to perform emergency braking and then steering while emergency braking. I have done the same course twice, several years of car technology apart, and really recommend them. One of the main points they make was that the manufacturer's normal recommended pressures are mainly for comfort and not for safely coping with emergency braking. They recommend about 5 psi over recommended pressures (for a given weight) to avoid the front tyres deforming under heavy braking causing loss of tyre contact with ground and therefore maintains better braking performance. Coincidentally the extra pressure usually coincides with the best economy pressures from the manufacturers, and it can give a noticeable improvement in fuel consumption. As mentioned above, set the pressures when the tyres are cold. Too high a pressure can be dangerous, cause uneven wear across the tyre, and make for an uncomfortable ride on rougher roads. Too low a pressure for the weight in the car with high speeds can cause tyres to overheat and destruct.

Bumping up this thread a bit. 🙂 I have just installed new adjustable coilovers by KW. And new rims.

The same driver in the video above during lockdown, but in traffic

Seen in intermarche chateaulin car park Wednesday the new citroen 2CV or the Rolls runabout?

Have you also checked where the negative battery cable is attached to the car body?

104 miles was what my car was showing @ 100% this morning. Back after 37 miles of flooded back roads and i stuck to MID & Full regen and the speeds were low, showed 4.1 miles a kWh until the last 5 miles home and down hill & that went to 4.4 miles a kWh. Arrived with 74% / 81 miles showing. Charging now on 3 pin. Yesterday it was at 86% / 90 miles from just in 30 mph limit (Average speed about 15 mph) & to 100% / 104 miles shows 5 kWh /£1.20. EDIT. 74% to 100% / 111 miles took 10kW £2.22 I would probably have been more efficient today in Sport & low regen. Or sometimes it makes no difference, 1 pedal driving was good for today.) (Not looked yet at pictures of flooding but through the ford the water was not high so maybe not raining that heavy higher up.) 2 years ago. Not so efficient.

Congrats! Really nice scenery!

Yeah being in Australia does limit my options, Witter don't have Australia as a selection but I'll ping them a message Worst case I'll get a friend in the UK to post them over, should still work out much cheaper!

If I read your post correctly, the car’s only had one MoT previously. I don’t think the ‘one month’ applies to the first test, ie a month before the 3rd anniversary of its first being registered. This is because there is no ‘previous Mot’ (referred to in the quotes) that’s running out. By my thinking, then, say the car was registered 26th Aug 2019, the first test would be due 28th Aug ‘22. But if you Mot’d it on 31st July, then the next and subsequent tests would be due 31st July. You could the do the next one earlier in July and preserve the 31st date. But unless you’d had its first text actually on 28th Aug, it’d never have that as a due date. My Octavia, for instance was first reg’d 27th March 18, but it’s first Mot was done 25th Feb 21, so the due date each year is 24th Feb, and can be carried out one month minus one day before the due date. If you do an Mot history check on the DVLA website, it should clarify everything. Apologies if I’m wrong, but it does explain the apparent ‘lost month’.

Only a little…. Ski last post was before C19, Russia invading Ukraine and there was a lunatic was in the White House (probably not the last time) We didn't have our 280, and the OP may not have his car either!😂

Well given MG are part of SAIC and given that based on this article they look to be one of the manufacturer's who didn't bung the EU Kommisars a big enough backhander so look to be getting stung with 38.1% additional import duties................

Thanks, the previous owner fitted them and I wasn't sure at first, but they've been growing on me for the last few months. This is a google translate of the specs (bought in Germany): Properties "Rotiform CVT 8.5x19 5/112 ET45 ML black matt" Bolt circle: 5x112 Hub: 57.1, 66.6 Size: 19 inch Width: 8.5 J Offset: ET45 Color: Black Design: One-piece Wheel load: 725kg Weight: 12kg

I prefer Guy Martin's Amazon.

And if it is not hit with massive extra import duties it might do very well. Cheaper and more powerful than the Clio etech which it is oft compared though not as composed or refined. Predict it will sell very well.

Yes, you can put a plate there, but due to play in the linkage and engine movements, the slots won't correspond - Felicias often has problems to fit into rectangle in the center console 😁 Maybe, if you converted the gearbox to cable shift with tight tolerances, (check Octavia AZE or Lupo AHT), you'd have some chance with this idea.

@Graham Butcher Exactly the same as with every small car i have ever had, or driven were only children or double leg amputees can sit behind me. The Toyota iQ was a roomy 2 or 3 seater, same with a Fabia, as was the Corsa and the MINI is better as a 2 seater but can take 3 in it.

And pretty comfortable, given its short wheelbase, they ride bumps pretty well, I sometimes get one as a courtesy car while mine is being serviced.. Problem being that when I'm driving, I need the seat all the way back till it touches the back seat, so the car becomes a 3 seater at best

INRIX isn't new. There were always (afaik) two systems, until Trafficmaster shut theirs down. Which one was used is/was down to the manufacturer. VAG have never used INRIX. TMC has disappeared from VAG cars because they used Trafficmaster, and the service doesn’t exist anymore - it’s got absolutely nothing to do with licensing, cars are set up to use one or the other. VAG could move over to INRIX - see that link to the TT forum I posted, that suggests a simple coding change can be done (which I suppose means a software update could do the same, maybe). Whether or not new VAG cars now come with that change and use INRIX, I have no idea - but the fact that someone got it working in an old VAG car suggests either the license fee has been paid by VAG and new cars do use it… or there’s absolutely no technical enforcement to check if the receiver of the information is from a manufacturer who has paid up.

This request to replace the rear discs and pads could have worked if you had it a condition on buying that car at the agreed price, now as you seem to have agreed the price, I would not expect that dealer to be willing to spend any of their money on it now. As said earlier, rear discs on these cars do or can end up in that condition easily, if/when you replace these discs(and get new pads), if you chose say Pagid discs, then I'd expect that they would not "blacken up" quite as quickly as the original Skoda discs. My oldest daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra has horrible looking black rear discs, and I've already had to replace the rear brake pads as they wear down quickly probably due to the enhanced braking safety functions on that car, right now its mileage is only roughly 24,000 miles, my youngest daughter's May 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS also has horrible black rear discs and well used rear pads at roughly 31,000 miles - if possible, I'd like to replace her car's rear discs and pads if/when they visit us, MOT testers have not yet made any comments on the state of these rear discs on either car as they probably know that they will still still function as intended - and there is a lot of it about due to the reasons given already. Good Luck with getting that dealer to replace them probably using aftermarket brands, like Pagid, before you collect it though! (if you don't ask you don't get)

The fact that the manual switch works says to me that the convenience control module is working. One common problem for the central locking is broken wires is the cable trunk you see when the door is open. it connect wiring between the body and door. This carries power and signals to the drivers door locking system which also talks to other doors. Check all the wires for breaks in the trunking. Also, with the ignition on, open each door in turn and see if a door open icon is displayed on the dash.

Had much the same with both my rears, bought the car from the main dealers here in Norwich, said that rusty rear discs caused because when braking the fronts use 70% and rears 30% of braking force. Car had done 5435 miles in 6 months when I bought it, have attached pic I kept, Dealer had it in for a day, told me the'd taken both discs off and cleaned them up. Just had a look, in same condition as pic, ( speedo now on 7123 miles )

The Kamiq I bought 2 months ago apparently had rear rusty discs and past their best, they were changed before I took delivery. The new ones are swept by the pads almost to the edge of the disc all but for around approx 3 mm. This is on a car that's done 18k miles, and nearly 4 years old. You'd expect better quality materials used but apparently they aren't very good on Skoda now and rust easily. I'd also expect that dealer will replace and at the same time clean up those alloys, seemed only cleaned where you can notice. My replacements......

Awesome thank you for your response. I just wasn't too sure. Its still a young engine so I shouldn't worry too much. I think you are correct 😊

FWIW... Mines an October 23 model MC and looks similar. They get such little use as most of the weight transfers to the front. I've taken to pulling the handbrake on when slowing down every so often as it cleans then up a treat.

What do you mean by 'not contacting the whole of the disc'? If you mean the swept area doesn't reach the edge of the disc, this is entirely normal. If the pads made contact right to the eg=dge, then it is possible for the pad to have an unworn edge, then, particularly on non-ventilated disc, it is possible for the pads to touch each other and for the brake to become less effective.

Welcome @Scalimetro Nice motor. Good luck with it. Your English is great! Zea

I best not put what I think about Chinese goods and their enablers.

Choice of all-seasons or dedicated season tires depends on many factors, only you know what your winter and driving conditions are ...

The Hyundai Ionic 28kWh really efficient and not so small a car.

Hi, Nothing shows on your link. I would suggest uploading the video to Youtube. Are you talking about the noise when the RPMs are dropping to the normal idel RPMs? You can hear it in my video below

With the small VW EVs being (apparantly) the most efficient EV cars you can buy today, could it be that we need lighter cars, smaller battery packs and a combination of smaller more fuel efficient, cleaner ICE engines working with an electric motor to effectively reduce emissions overall?

Hope you get the right key

Just realised you are in Australia, hopefully if you contact them at witter they can post it? These guys want $150. ridiculous price https://australiatowbars.com.au/accessories.html?p=3

Cheers guys. I've done some digging and its actually valid until the 09/09/24. Its actually had 2 MOT's now. this one will be the 3rd Off the gov website that AG Falco linked to (forgot about that one...) which concurs with the paper one i have. Date registered 10 September 2019 MOT valid until 9 September 2024 The email reminder makes it look as if its due on the much earlier date, its just a wind up... I don't know why the keep moving the date forward, crappy system they have in place i guess.

Typo error in my post above, should read ‘registered on 28th’ not 26th, sorry

Don't hold your breath. Even when other VAT brands admit that a shared component is prematurely defective, i.e. requires remedial action and presented with well-documented evidence of similar faults, Skoda seems to have a track record of " never heard of that problem" and refusing to cover the cost... " E.g. TSI cam chain tensioners, sunroof plastic surround cracks, coolant loss caused by TSI water pump leaks. I lost faith after being told "they all do that, it's normal"

Yes, you could try we buy any car, or cash for cars, they're in all the state capitals. They are quick but desperate options, but options nevertheless. If the car wasn't a lemon to begin with, it's clearly become one after so much, shall we say, 'interference'. Given your relatively remote region, personally I'd stay away from Euro vehicles in favour of brands that are likely to have better localised servicing, support, parts availability etc. You'll know which they are. Why not try offering the car back the dealer you bought it from?

It's done 45000 miles. But 8 know the car was sat still for at least a year ish I wonder if that caused the issues. To be honest with you all I couldn't bare thinking about it anymore especially with my 8 month old. I've put to new arms on it myself not to difficult to be fair. I will stick some pictures on here once I get around to photographing them (old ones). Garage sort of put the fear of God into me lol. They are definitely split and as said by you guys coming away from the outer ring but other than that again as you all said had life left. Shame but don't have to worry no more just going to get car tracked now. Can I just say this forum is amazing really happy with how many helpful responses I got thank you so much. Legends! Take care of yourselves.

I understood the rules to be a month earlier minus 1 day, so if it was due on the 9/9/23 the earliest would be the 10/8/23 so the 11th should have been fine.

Check your MOT history here:- https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history Thanks. AG Falco

Where is the logic of European car makers making electric cars that hardly ever need servicing, looking like they will last for decades rather than there present vehicles that might just last a decade or decade and a half before they become a potential liability ie the turbo goes and that £5k car becomes worthless. Chinese will keep making EVs and with new EV batteries getting substantial better each year, self driving software, as TELSA is producing. Electric Viking brings this to a short video.... EVs picked up at the docks, as RSEV and definatelynotaguru has, maybe jsut visit in the garage every 2 years for pollen filter change and checkover but probably no other parts needed....

If the fan is on after the car is running, that does not indicate the regen has completed. Please see my post above. Seeing that behaviour once a week doesn't necessarily mean a regen once a week. Also, fan on for just a few minutes might point to the system not actually being that hot so lots of cooling is not required. If the regen has completed, the fan should not run at all unless you are in particularly hot climate. 30km a day is roughly the same as mine (10 miles each way) and one of the main reasons I dropped my diesel. 1-2 years for a battery is far too short. If the garage is suggesting that then there is another issue with the car making the batteries fail so soon. You need to find out what is causing the issue. Could be the fan random running thing combined with fan running too much due to not completing a regen.

Looking at one for my VW CC. It's a good option if you want Carplay or Android Auto at a decent price and they are OEM.I believe they are geniune VW units that were used in Asia and South America. However, there are a lot of copies around. If you see something for way under $300 then it's likely a cheap copy. From what I've read, Lemon Shark on Aliexpress are a good source. So is www.rcd330.com. There are two versions - Desay and Noname. Noname is considered to be the better as the firmware is upgradable. They are also available with green backlighting for Skoda. From my perspective, the advantages and disadvantages are: Advantages: - pretty much plug and play - may need a CAN adapter for pre 2009 cars to support steering controls and prevent battery drain - Works with your existing steering wheel controls - Shows parking sensor details (if you have them) - Think it shows HVAC details - not sure about this, but not a big deal Disadvantages - Built in microphone on front of unit - doesn't use an external mic - many say this works well so maybe not a disadvantage - No RDS - not sure if you can type in names of stations when saving - No built in satnav - have to use Carplay/Andriod Auto - not a biggie for me as I like to use Google maps. - No DAB - Wired carplay/Andriod Auto only - can be wireless if you use an adapter, but not sure how reliable these are - Front USB only - although www.rcd330.com offer a version with a rear USB

You can't always drive exactly like that, or want to, but just following the principles will help with general driving and save a bit of petrol perhaps. Eco setting on my wife's car is +5psi but I've no idea about Aus as from past communications from Aus drivers their tyre pressure they run sometimes seem high or very high compared to UK but the tyres and roads and surfaces may be very different. Start with the pressures the car has on it, standard or Eco and see how they go, pressure readings need to be taken when the tyres are 'cold' (usually first thing in the morning before the sun starts to heat things up too much and with a reliable and accurate pressure gauge often the ones on pumps and in garages can be unreliable. Wow those dial gauges make me seasick just looking at them in your post, so many bright colours so busy and congested, to me more PlayStation than real life (not that I've ever used PlayStation), I'll leave it to others that know the controls and buttons on your model to set the displays. But I will point out that having the oil temperature on display is a good idea until you learn about when it will get to fully warmed running temperature, see your owners manual for normal running temperature, the oil wants to be at about 90c to be fully warmed. Depending on your winter temperatures, short journeys particular in winter may not get the oil fully warmed to about 90c and thaat's not ideal or particularly good. In previous models with actual gauge and needle coolant temperature dial the dial was biased set to show a rock steady 90c even though the actual temperature could be an amount either side of this and moving up or down - I don't know if this is the case with your digital display. The digital oil temperature on my wife's 2015 Fabia does go up and down. 1973 model, some bits of it were from that year still. I was driving this as an 'everyday' car as it was my only car until a couple of years ago for the previous 16 years and for club events, tours and holidays in the UK and parts of Europe (and never carried a spare wheel, or jack and brace, just a manual footpump). I did fit a modern fully electronic distributor as soon as it became available for my model and had to fit an electronic indicator flasher unit for the LED indicator bulbs, old cars have small light, you need to be seen (and see) on the road. If you're interested, this was done by my neighbour for his website just out of Covid lockdown in the UK, hence the "lockdown locks" (unruly hair) on a s/h Go-Pro cheap copy camera and free editing software. To turn the heater on or off you stop the car, open the bonnet and turn the tap on or off, using your sleeve if the engine was already hot, the heat was very good for a small cabin but was either on or off and nothing really in between so the passenger particularly could have hot feet and/or warm head if the footwell flaps were closed depending on if the hood was up or down. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GWowHiIktA&list=PL7v-I2NzS0sRip1E9JWAlrxAl-bEmJqyM&index=7

You don't need a diesel car. More to that I suggest to change your preferred garage as the current one seems to be unable to perform a proper diagnostic. Diagnostic does not end with fault code reading.

Hi sorry to gatecrash this post, I’m getting a 2019 (pre facelift) Sportline Plus 272 next week and have been hopeful that the Traffic Sign Recognition could be activated. Would this be possible on this car? And if so, is there anyone in the Manchester area who could help “unlock” it? Cheers.

hello @Gizmo , could you please add me: Stuttgart/Germany = @idikmen = HEX-V2 Thanks in advance