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Egret reflection

This is how it looks to get really low consumption, no A/C or heat, good ambient temp, low traffic.... 400km at 130kph.

Jackdaw and kestrel

It’s now just under two weeks since I collected my Mk4 L&K 193 ps dsg 4x4 estate. So I thought I’d share a bit about it: I’d had a 2018 Mk3 non facelift L&K 190 ps dsg fwd which I’ve been very pleased with in the almost 6 years I’ve had it. I wanted one last estate car before I eventually downsized, so I went for it. I’m guessing I might be one of the first in the uk to get one of these. I’ll try to feedback my experiences with it in case it’s useful for anyone thinking about getting one. Because I tow, I stuck with diesel. So far: First impressions are very good. The gadgetry is a leap on from the Mk3 although you could argue that the Mk3 was good anyway. Example: Self learning parking on the new car. I reversed in an S shape track into a corner of my driveway. The car asked if I wanted to save the manoeuvre for it to do itself next time. Self regulating speed in response to reading traffic signs. Stuff like that. Other stuff in no particular order: CD player in glove box is gone. Apple car play + Android does it all now and I also believe the new car has its own registered SIM. No more tyre gel. Space saving wheel now. Floor is still at low height so retains maximum space. Space also gained in rear side of boot because the Canton amplifier etc which was there, now houses in the spare wheel. Only one umbrella this time, although both doors still have a recess. Power outlets (the old cig lighter sockets) are no longer permanently live. They come on with ignition. As far as I can tell, the new car unlike the old, does not after a time, turn the ignition off on an unstarted engine. The ride and quietness is very good. The old one was great but it seems as if everything is soundproofed a bit more on this new car. I’d say though that the suspension on the old car was gentler. This is when comparing Comfort mode. Both cars have 18” wheels. The new car sits quite a lot higher at the back. Maybe all suspension settles and softens. I’m sure the old car was higher when new. Infotainment. The satnav map on the new car, unlike the old, has no altitude reading. Regardless, the map seems better and clearer overall although it still carries that trait where, if you expand the view, the text stays small. Rev limiter, when car in Park: The new car does not seem so far to have this although I obviously have not tested it too much. It’s a 7 speed as opposed to the old 6 speed. I’m getting the feeling that it’s longer legged as a result rather than closer geared. I tow an Eriba Triton caravan, and just like the Mk3 car, the Mk4 is a complete dream when towing and averages just over 35 mpg. The caravan is a small 950kg aluminium thing but the mpg is still pretty good. The co2 emissions are stated I think about 157 gm/km whereas the old car was about 132. Maybe the 4x4 has something to do with that. The quoted solo mpg is in the high 40’s as opposed to 54 on the old. But, I’m getting pretty much the same on the new car albeit without the bike roof racks on yet, and just like with the old, 65 mpg on a steady A road trip has not been over difficult to get, and easily does 54 on the motorway at 60/70 mph Once the racks are on this may all drop a bit. Rear seat release from boot is new and it’s great. Seatbelts add security and tighten up when the new car reaches about 15 mph. Front seats move back when doors opened, makes exit easier I guess, a nice feature. All in all this promises to be a great car, an improvement on outgoing one if that were ever possible. So far I’m happy and still singing it’s praises😊 Hopefully I’ll add more as time goes on.

A few from the local Res this evening............

Just watched this amazing video of a VW Passat being driven from Morocco to London over 2 days on an attempt to break the world record for distance on a single tank of fuel. The only preparation that appears to have been apart from servicing it prior to the trip is the fitting of a set of Michelin E Primacy tyres, not even taping over the shut lines etc.

I guess the pan roof might be another 20 which I guess is getting there

35kg for a towbar? 20kg full size spare wheel? 2kg for a jack? Struggling to find 100kg but not sure what all the options weigh.

Ha ha - for the amount I'm using it I may as well swap it for some shelving. On a serious note, MOT is due this week, hopefully it'll pass with it only covering 300 odd miles since the last one, then I MUST start using it or what's the point having it in the garage? I'm even toying with the idea of doing a trackday in it once it's had final mapping..... something I'd said I'd never, ever do as it's too nice... There have been some crazy ideas going round in my head about moving away from a PD power unit for Daffodil, something away from the VAG stable, it'd certainly make for a challenge. But I have got a house to finish, Merc W124 restoration to finish and a countless other things which simply absorb time.

Loosen all five wheel bolts by half a turn. Then drive the car about 2 metres (6 feet) so that the wheels rotate one revolution. That should free the wheels from sticking to the hubs. This lets the weight of the car do the work, not you.

Welcome to the forum. There will be a bit of corrosion sticking the alloy wheel to the steel hub. Remove all the wheel bolts, sit on the ground and give one side of the tyre a whack with your foot. That should release it. If not give the other side a whack. Put the other foot in the centre of the wheel to help keep it in place and be ready to catch it as it comes away.

A few from Yorkshire Sculpture Park today............

All sorted finally! some pictures for future reference. thanks for all your help!

Hi, I've had several mk1 Octavia's over the years but a few years ago owned a BMW 3-series with a heated steering wheel. Wow...what a thing to have and a real solution to the raynaud's that I suffer with in the winter. Anyway..I sold the BMW and ended up in a mk3 Leon for a bit. I managed to retrofit a HSW to that car and wrote a how-to guide on the seatcupra.net forum. The Leon has now gone - because obviously I wanted to be back in an Octavia - and I have completed the same retrofit in my 2017 FL vRS, using some of the same parts. Got to love MQB platform sharing! So this how to guide is basically a rewritten version of the guide for the Leon, utilising some of the same pictures, albeit the Skoda specific ones are included. I'm going to say that this will work on any MQB platform Octavia, but I'm thinking you will need a 'high' level BCM to get it to work and probably heated seats as a minimum. Can't be 100% certain, but it was a straightforward fit on my vRS (with winter pack). Anyway...here goes: It's actually a really easy retrofit once you get the right parts and if you look around it needn't be mega expensive. The total cost for me to do this retrofit was in the region of £450. So it's not the cheapest by any stretch however if you keep an eye out on eBay and other selling sites the parts do come up for sale at reasonable prices. *I'm not writing this as an idiots guide and won't include how-to's for things like removing the glovebox, airbag, steering wheel or other things. There are guides for that online if you need them, but please only attempt this if you're competent to do so* This retrofit details the procedure for fitting the HSW from a mk3 Octavia/Superb. The mk4 platform wheels may well work however I preferred to keep the wheel and MFSW buttons that matched my car. Parts Required: - The heated steering wheel from a Mk3 Octavia or Mk3 Superb. They are available in both manual and DSG however if you want a flat bottomed one then it'll be DSG only as far as I can tell. I couldn't find a manual flat bottomed HSW anywhere. There are a variety of part numbers but as an easy reference you're looking for the tell-tale two-pin plug that provides power to the heating elements, like this: I bought one from a manual Octavia and sent it off to Royal Steering Wheels to be retrimmed in vRS leather with red stitching (you can see the plug in the below picture too). It's worth noting that if you want a retrim you will end up with a slightly thicker steering wheel because it's not possible to remove the leather from a HSW without damaging the elements. So the retrim leather is laid on top of the existing wheel. The heat still penetrates through without issue: - The HSW specific airbag for the steering wheel - part number is 6V0 880 201 T 1ZY. God knows why but Skoda, in their wisdom, use a different airbag because the wheel is a different shape at the top. This picture shows the differences - the HSW specific airbag is at the bottom of the picture: - Steering wheel control module (also known as clock spring or slip ring) - 5Q0 953 549 B or 5Q0 953 549 D. The 'D' suffix is the newest part number, supercedes the 'B' suffix and is available new on eBay for around £150. These control modules have a different type of plug (14-pin as opposed to 16-pin) which has larger power and earth pins for the HSW, pictured here: - Kufatec MQB heated steering wheel retrofit loom - the Kufatec part number for RHD cars is 43696-1. OR* - 14-pin multiplug so you can re-pin the existing 16-pin plug - 5Q0 972 726 * if you choose to repin the existing plug (as I did) then you'll need to sort out some wiring and pins to suit the power feed and ground wire needed to power the HSW. The Kufatec loom makes it pretty much plug and play. Tools needed: Standard workshop tools including Torx bits 12mm triple square (splined) bit for the steering wheel centre bolt VCDS (or equivalent) for coding - Hex-Net or Hex-V2 as a minimum for MQB coding. Procedure: - Grab a quick VCDS snapshot of the long coding on your current steering wheel module in case you ever return the car to standard. - Disconnect the battery - Remove the airbag, steering wheel, column shroud trim, glovebox and centre console side trims, something like this: - Remove the steering wheel control module. - Unclip and pull out the fusebox - Run the Kufatec loom from column to the fusebox using an appropriate routing where it won't chafe on anything - Fit the power feed and earth of the Kufatec loom to the fusebox and surrounding area according to their instructions (if building your own loom, you can use fuse position SC24 or any along the same row - they are a terminal 30 feed) - Refit the fusebox - Fit the new steering wheel control module - Plug the Kufatec loom into the steering wheel control module (if building your own loom, now is the time to re-pin the original column plug into the new 14-pin plug - this is well documented on other forums however the pin-out is as follows: Pin 1 (16-pin) red/white to Pin 2 (14-pin) Pin 2 (16-pin) brown to Pin 4 (14-pin) Pin 3 (16-pin) orange/brown to Pin 5 (14-pin) Pin 4 (16-pin) orange/green to Pin 6 (14-pin) Pin 5 (16-pin) black/white to Pin 7 (14-pin) Pin 6 (16-pin) black/red (if present) to Pin 13 (14-pin) Pin 7 (16-pin) purple/red to Pin 12 (14-pin) Pin 8 (16-pin) purple/blue to Pin 14 (14-pin) Pin 11 (16-pin) blue/grey to Pin 9 (14-pin) PIn 14 (16-pin) black/grey to Pin 10 (14-pin) Pin 16 (16-pin) black to Pin 11 (14-pin) Pin 1 of the 14-pin plug goes to a 15A fuse protected terminal 30 feed Pin 8 of the 14-pin plug goes to earth. - Refit the centre console side trims and steering column shroud. - Refit the glovebox. - Fit the heated steering wheel - Fit the new airbag Double check you're happy with everything, then reconnect the battery. Should look something like this: Fire up VCDS again, do the relevant coding. Module 08 (HVAC) - Coding - Long Coding Helper (and say "yes" to the "trying experimental features" to see more descriptions of bits) - Byte 11: Add a tick to bit2 and bit3 - Byte 13: Choose whether you want the wheel to come on automatically with either outside temperature or wheel temperature or not at all. Done! Enjoy a little HSW logo come up on your HVAC control screen (press the 'menu' button to access this screen) : Enjoy the extra settings for the HVAC where you can alter the temperature of the HSW, decide whether you want the HSW to come on automatically (3 degrees C or below if I remember rightly) and choose if you want the HSW to come on automatically with the heated seats. Also, if you do switch the drivers heated seat on then this option comes up where you can quickly choose the temperature of the HSW as well: Sorry about the dust and fingerprints on the screen....it's due a clean inside. Check on VCDS to see what's going on in the measuring blocks within Module 16 -Steering Wheel: Look forward to having warm hands come the winter. NB - Mine is a 2017 manual vRS so I didn't have to worry about any coding of the DSG paddles etc. All of the steering wheel buttons worked on my car without any issue. Yours may not be the same, but any issues would be easily solvable with the relevant coding alterations I'm sure. Thanks Tom

Really enjoyed this one - what a collection!

I initially thought it was stuck in the grill because my fingers couldn't reach it and was driving home to get a pair of pincers when I turned the car into my estate and heard the coin rolling in. Initially it was stuck in the front 3rd hole to the right of the plastic center, and it rolled when I turned my car to the right 90 degrees. How bad will it to be to get it out?

Hi All, first time skoda owner!, well happy with the ease of working on them. well built.Saved this one from the scrappy, decided to turn her into a van. I fitted the roof bars and have a second hand template for sale at £50 delivered if anyone is interested.

PR = 1ZC for front brakes. So those pads you mention are not correct.

Unintentionally pressed the tailgate button. Pressed again to stop it opening. I decided to drive on a short distance to find somewhere quieter to deal with the tailgate, and found it closed itself when driving off.

26°C and the MINI loves it. 16°C heater which is the lowest and no AC on and in town just windows and roof open and average speed 13 mph or so and showing 8-10 miles a kWh.

Thought you might like the following video, one of the members of our car club for decades, who like other members take their vehicles to shows to actually drive them, rather than static polished display, and take out anyone on a Sporting Bears Dream Rides passenger ride on the roads of the land for a donation to children's charities in the UK. Not all club members have quite that collection, some only one humble "classic" and a few without even one "classic" or sportscar but still volunteer their time and presence to help raise the funds with all the less exciting aspects needed. The video. -

Could you get to it with one of these?

I'm trying to remember if pound coins are magnetic... As some coins are .. if so I'm wondering if you could remove the vent and fish it out with a magnet on a piece of string or similar...

That certainly seems to be the case these days. Our old Octavia 4x4 bought at a few months old was different though and had quite a few options as well as a towbar.

My usual garage quoted me £500 for 6 hours of labour to disassemble the dashboard / get to the heater / blower then put it back together again. An aircon place just said £150 but didn't say how they were going to do it. I can hear it sliding left and right, but not "a lot", so wherever it is, it's not wide, like the width of the car. It also rattles up and down. I hate it.

Hey all, New to this forum, ish.. joined in December but only just getting round to posting. I have a 2018 Octavia Vrs estate in Meteor grey. I absolutely love it, owned it for over a year now and its great. I am sold on Skoda as a brand and think when the time comes I will upgrade to the mk4.

Welcome Nicky. I'm only a "Newbie" myself, but have already found these lads to be very helpful.

There's no oily deposits around the exhaust, I checked this already. However with a DPF most of the oil will probably clog up the DPF id imagine (causing expensive problems later). There's no spots of oil in there parking place & I've parked since Thursday with a cardboard sheet underneath again no spotting but you may be right with material absorbing the oil. I don't have any proper jacks or ramps to be able to safely remove the undertray but I might try and remove the screws on one side to take a look before sending it on Wednesday.... Gabbo

Same here, only my Nightster has inner tubes, shame as if I get a puncture, there's no sticky rope for me. My Caddy van has enough weight in it to equal a Superb and a half-I still have faith in the sticky rope repair, maybe not as much if the tyre had only a small amount legal tread left, but as it was nearly new, I've risked it.

That's what I was hoping originally that the PDI wasn't done properly as they flipped the car to me less than 2 days after it arrived at the garage. My Octavia consumes 750mL of oil every 25k km which is ok for me. 5L in the same distance is too much. I hope it's something simple like a misfitted hose rather than a dodgy turbo or piston rings that need major intervention. Gabbo

I notice that there was a similar 'spare-wheel size?' discussion here in 2020/2021 relating to Fabia Mk3 cars. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488255-spare-steel-wheel-different-size/ (I particularly liked the comment "Anyone can do what ever they want, there is no one policing stupidity") As a rule of thumb, the size and specification of the tyre on the optional steel spare-wheel of a VW Group car will match the size and specification (though not necessarily the make) of the tyre fitted to the standard road wheels fitted to the lowest 'trim' specification for that particular model. Hence the optional steel spare-wheel for all Fabia Mk3 cars had a 185/60 R15 tyre and, for all Fabia Mk4 cars, the optional steel spare-wheel has a 185/65 R15 tyre.

I had two of these in the 80's as company cars but my goodness did they drink petrol - I rarely got over 30mpg. A later 1.3 89 Astra was way better in many ways. Blimey suddenly feel old!

Sounds like a way to get an extra £200 off people ordering from the factory.

@semiroundel I am a Fatbiker & a fat barsteward and have had to do repairs, even packing tyres with heather and zip tying on the tyre. But i am not the weight of a Superb.

Thanks guys all good info. @Ootohere, yes of course, but the car is like new, and my first attempt to remove one of the caps with the wire spring thing ended up me putting 3 scratches in the nut well so I stopped and ordered the removal tool I think Gizmo mentioned. A boiler I can handle all day long but vehicle mechanics are a bit alien to me, just the minimum. Regarding the sticky rope system, yes, a temporary repair, but in the adventure biking fraternity I'm more familiar with, there are many records of people doing tens of thousands of miles on them, my Caddy has one such repair and I'm waiting until the tyre is worn before changing it as it has good tread, partly out of stinginess, and partly to see if those wanton claims by fellow bikers and truckers are true. It may come back to bite me, but at least the Caddy has a spare, so I can afford to risk it, so far I've had 4000 miles out of it.

And the inside after cleaning it with alot of painstaking time That's how it was but now it's new literally so all the else's work as tested every copper length for conducting

Buying a Karoq with a factory fitted towbar can push the purchase price over £40k (uk) which adds £600 to the RFL for the first 6 years, applies to new and used. I opted to have the ŠKODA swivelling towbar fitted after I’d got the Karoq.

That's correct. If you have a very low software revision number like 1803 then you'll need to visit a dealer first, so they can do it and possibly replace a component, before they can upgrade the system firmware to higher revisions and then upto 1941 & subsequently 1969 or newer if a newer revision exists.

Here is what i have for the Pickup immobilizer. Immobilizer.pdf Click it.

I'd have taken a similar route too. That being said, those photos look nice, so as long as a good time was had that's what matters. Last year, myself and some friends did Inverness and back in a day. Started at home, near the A713, then onto the A78, A737 to pick up from Johnstone, M8 (W), A898 over the Erskine Bridge, A82 stopping in Balloch, and then following to Inverness with lunch in Fort William. Got dinner in Inverness and killed an hour or two. Came back down the A9, into Stirling, then over the A811 to Balloch, and worked backwards from there.

Greeting! I read your experiences. I had a situation, after I bought a car, 2 months passed and I started to hear buzzing in the dashboard. I took the car to an authorized service center where they said it was the fuel hose that had fallen out of the reservoir. After I got home the buzzing was heard again. After that, I went to the service center again, where they said that they would take the entire board out and disassemble everything to solve the problem. However, the hose "fell out" from the bed again. In the end, I went to another service center where they found the problem in 2 minutes. The buzzing was from the interior mirror plastic that covers the rain and light sensors.

For those interested. Had the four 16" Octavia wheels with Falken 215.60.16 tyres fitted today. Total excercise cost me £740. Very happy with outcome.... Better ride & much less chance of kerbing the alloys. Plenty clearance between front caliper & inside of wheel. Replacement tyres in future at 100 quid rather than 200.

Sure! Front: And rear: Besides the material and design, the front one is longer, +/- 10 cm longer, so it covers more surface.

A couple from the local reservoir earlier...........

Back in a Skoda Superb after about a 12 year gap, this time it's a 280 L&K and it's such a nice comfy ride after my last rock-hard Hyundai "N" thing but it's equally quick. I do find the wheels ghastly, they even protrude more than the tyre walls making them next to impossible of staying free from kerb damage. That said the wheels alone are not enough to spoil everything else about the car.

Turns off personalisation on the headunit. Pretty sure the welcome message can't be displayed on the sport mode screen so it changes to one which can display it 👍 That worked on my 2018 Octavia at least.

Have been into my local dealers twice now with PDC errors. They claim that when they checked it there is a Service Bulletin that says it is caused by" Environmental Issues". I told them the car is designed to operate from the Arctic to the Sahara so a mild day in Lancashire should not trigger a fault in the system! I want them to change the PDC unit but they are trying to wriggle out of doing that. I also have the Infotainment instability problem from day one of ownership of the car in January 2022. Been in three times now to the dealers and each time they load new software which fails to sort the problem (curently running 1941). I love the car without these faults but my patience is wearing very thin now.

Octavia MK3 6.5Jx16 ET46 Steel Rim Weight is 7.6kg https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/plechovy-disk-16-/p/5Q0601027BQ03C Octavia MK3 6.5Jx16 ET46 Alloy Rim Weight is 9.5kg https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-velorum-16-pro-octavia-iii-octavia-iv/p/5E3071496++FL8 As you can see from the above links, the "light" alloy rim is actually much heavier than the steel rim. Most alloy rims are made out of cast aluminium, which is a far weaker material than steel. Cast alloy rims are very cheap to make, so there's a lot of profit for the sellers. Hence all the false information about alloy rims being light. It's possible to make alloy rims lighter than steel, but that involves using materials such as forged aluminium. Expensive cars such as Porsches and Ferraris will often use forged aluminium for their rims and never cast aluminium.