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When it is hot, switch the engine off then leave it for 3-5 minutes before you check it. Probably teaching granny to suck eggs but remove the dipstick, clean it, replace it, make sure it is fully home, then remove it and check it is up to the mark.

I just checked my manual and there is nothing about having to reset anything. Opening the bonnet for 30 seconds appears to appease it and if you don't add oil it comes back on after 100km.

The DSG will change gears on cruise if the load on the engine demands it, it's normal behaviour.

So i took the week off work to put a big dent in things! Webasto parking heater - Finally got the basic settings to run through on this and got it to run without cutting off. The remote was then very very easy to pair with ODIS and took 30 seconds. I now have a fully working parking heater and ventilation setup! So on cold days/mornings I can either press the remote to start it up, or set a time on the dashboard that i want to depart and the heater will boot up and get the interior nice and warm! And being summer now, i have the ventilate option - which instead of heating the interior will turn the blowers on to remove all the hot air in the cabin before you are even in the vehicle. Webasto signed off fully and a rough guide on the coding will be along shortly. Areaview/360 camera - no further updates on calibration yet sadly, still trying to find time. The DCC and suspension work - probably what a lot of you have been waiting for. Before picture of the front strut. Now as all the wiring had been done and can be seen wrapped up in the photo above, it was just a job of physically doing the suspension work. The new monroe strut fitted up with all new top mounts and bump stops. As everything is being done by the book, all new hardware was required, and for all this work it was roughly 60 nuts and bolts. (The blue goo in the picture above is a wax visual indicator I put on all critical bolts to see if they ever come loose). Whilst we are still on the front of the car, it was time to get all the front bushes changed to finally get rid of the known creaking issue over bumps. 3 sets of bushes were changed here: Front lower arm inserts - fitted with genuine rubber bushes - no signs of wear on old ones Front lower arm puck inserts - fitted with genuine newest revision rubber bushes - old ones were creaking and a known issue for this Anti roll bar bushes - can only be purchased as a complete anti roll bar so polybush fitted instead - also a known creaking issue. So far, no noises at all from the front anymore! After this we moved onto the back - much more straightforward, 3 bolts for each strut and they were out. New bump stops and guards fitted but top mounts reused as ive never seen one of these fail. Straight forward fitting and done both rears in around 20 minutes. After this, all the hardware is fitted and the car was all fitted back up and all coding was carried out. (Im still working out some nacks with the coding so wont post it just yet) But.... we ran in to a fault code for the front left level sensor reading short to positive, so it was time to start diagnosing. Rather than pull the front wheel i decided to go from the NSF footwell where the multiplug is for both front sensors. 3 wires to each sensor, a ground, a 5v feed, a signal. On the 5v feed i was getting 12 VOLTS, not ideal. So the boot was stripped out to access the DCC module incase I had wired it incorrectly and after disconnecting the DCC plug in the boot, there was still 12V on this wire.... some head scratching commenced and a conclusion was made, and i remembered my earlier post The wire for the DCC level sensor is a 0.5mm black with yellow trace, one of the wires going to the phonebox amplifier is.... you guessed it, a 0.5mm black with yellow trace. Both wires ran alongside eachother in the passenger footwell and were very easily cut and swapped around. This is the huge upside to me doing all these jobs using original wire colours, routing, plugs, pin outs and wiring diagrams. It means that tracing faults is no different to any other factory fitted car, and more-so, if someone else had to diagnose the fault, they could follow all OE documentation. So not only did this cure the DCC fault, it cured the phonebox fault also. The final part of the DCC is the calibration which i will cover in more detail - but basically leave all 4 wheels hanging off the ground at maximum travel, and press calibrate. I will post all of my used suspension torque settings - THESE ARE SPECIFIC TO MY CAR AND MAY NOT BE THE SAME AS YOUR REQUIRED SPECS - PLEASE FIND THE CORRECT ONES FOR YOUR CAR AND DONT BLINDLY USE THESE These are all posted in Nm+Angle format. Front Subframe Main 70+180 Subframe small 50+90 Steering Rack 70+90 Steering rack end 20+90 Steering rack to column 20+90 Anti roll bar 20+180 Anti roll bar links 80 Lower arm to ball joint 40+45 Lower arm forward 70+180 Lower arm rear 70+180 Hub to shock pinch bolt 70+180 Driveshaft 200+90 Shock to upper mount 60 Shock mount to body 20+90 Brake carrier 200 Dogleg to subframe 130+90 Dogleg forward 50+90 Dogleg rear 50+90 Rear Shock to lower arm 70+180 Shock to upper mount Shock mount to body 50+45 Upper eccentric bolt 95 Lower eccentric bolt 95 Wheel torque 140 There will still be more updates to come as things are fully completed as well as all coding required and such.

My sentiments as well. If 1941 is working well for you then upgrading to 1969 doesn’t give you any additional functionality

If you press and hold the unlock button on remote windows and sunroof will open, obviously something pressed button in your pocket.

I know that road well - as you say, dropped to 30 without any advisory signage - as is the norm now for NCC. When another local road (50 years a 40 limit to my knowledge) was similarly castrated from 40 to 30 without any notices I complained to NCC and was passed from pillar to post. Bottom line was that as a driver I should be paying attention and that notices advising of a lower speed limit are not necessary! I dispute that, a new sign may well catch your attention but remove a sign and you’d be very fortunate to notice.

Like petrol or diesel road fuels? Li-ion batteries? Without internal combustion or electro-motive power we are left with bicycles and beasts of burden as modes of transport which are not potential fire risks.

Doesn't need to be signed. Road leads from a residential area which is built up with street lights . Previously was signed national speed limit, then signed 40mph, now signs removed so it's 30mph. No requirement to sign.

Welcome to the Forum. I too am a bit unsure what you mean. If you are doing the speed you desire and set cruise control, i wouldn't expect anything to change. But if you are setting cruise control to say 70 when you are going slower it would not be unusual for the car to drop a gear and accelerate.

And so the work begins. Getting ready to be shipped off for repair!

Just buy a torch and stick it in the car

that clears that up then

The only thing I've found is that there have been a couple of OTA updates which can destabilise 1941, such as the mode button not working and random oddities. But generally if 1941 is working well leave it alone and don't bother with 1969 until you absolutely have to, or even skip it altogether.

@Breezy_Pete knows electrics, i know nothing about them / sensors. When you get a used car you never know what has been done before. Maybe to hide any issue. Did you check the oil level when you get the car? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/306306-word-of-warning-dipping-vrs-oil-level

OP means original poster, I.e. @Mazen86. The other reply regarding engineering level decision - is not helpful to resolving your issue. So, to try and clarify - you installed a new Canbus module to display diagnostic data on the in car infotainment screen?

If your system is working correctly then leave it as is, you can update it if you really want to but you do it at your own risk.

No you haven't; CANBus is a manufacturer level engineering decision.

Could this not now just be the bonnet lock micro switch sticking in the "bonnet closed" state - so until that is sorted you could put a lot more oil in and still have that warning showing.

ALLDATA Vehicle Information.PDF Don't think the recommended concentration is listed, maybe that's in the vehicle workshop manual.

Damn it 😂 I’ll do that when I get back to the car or when I’m home?going to be about half an hour-1 hour just now before I’m back to the car

Just seen some invoices in the car and it’s a CAVE395720

Thanks for the reply, but as mentioned my mechanism is different than what the video tutorials demonstrated. I already replied with the solution above, which worked in removing the cover. There is no torx screw in any of the holes in the front doors, however they do exist in the back doors.

I get you. This stretch of road to my house was national speed limit until 5 years ago and then they imposed a 40mp speed limit. A few months ago they dropped it to 30mph. No 30mph signs, they just removed the 40's. Catches a lot of people out. Google maps still shows it as a 40mph but the Karoq correctly reports it as 30mph.

The new engine is a bit like new people what you do to and with them at the very start can set them up well or not. As previous posters, and the Owner's Manuals, have put don't labour the engine or over rev it. You can see in the graph put up 3500-4000 rpm is good for torque and power but you also want to go above and below that to vary things. Highway driving generally is less wearing as you keep to a constant speed depending on the highway conditions no or next to no gear changes or braking (if you are driving sensibly). You are much better if possible to drive on roads with more bends and twists and various speed limits to get used to the car and "bed" everything in and check everything works as it should. Unless the Mk4 has some sort of terrain mapping in it's over-complex and over-interfering computer programs the gear selection advice will not be the best advice for best fuel economy or labouring the car. I have proved to my neighbour in his 2023 Ren-No! Cashcow that using brisk (not heavy) acceleration to slightly higher revs past the display change up points than the display wants is more economical that following the gear selection display, use it as a guide not an order Same for down changes, use your own computer your head (brain, ears, eyes), look at the circumstances ahead, plan your actions for what you need to do with the car. As regards the oil change intervals VW are only interested in the engine (gearbox, car) lasting as long as any warranty they give and then with all the exclusions so if you intend to keep the car well beyond that warranty treat the manufacturer's oil (and filter) change intervals as the minimum period. If you use the car for lots of short journeys and have lots of cold starts and use the start-stop (can you still disable this feature on a 2024 car?) then one year 15,000 km would be a minimum but the oil may need changing sooner depending on many variables. There is no problem with changing the oil and filter after a run in period, it is a very good idea whether you can persuade a VWŠkoda Dealership (and perhaps others on here here) of this might be another matter though you would think they would gladly take your money and whether they would do a thorough oil change, or quick cold drain or suck out, is another matter. Two bits of advice for you, particularly as it is your first car, read the Owner's Manual and refer to it often ( I think you might already have) as this can save you time, hassle and money and visits to Dealership/garage/mechanic/auto-electrician/breakdown services. Second be aware that the car 12v battery is just a store and this store can be depleted if you keep taking out more than you put back in, the car does not always fully put back what you and the car take out. When the car and battery are new this will not be notable unless you really hammer the battery or make a mistake but in a number of years time it can become very noticeable and even cause issues and problems. The battery could easily last more than the 3, 4 or 5 years than many owners are now replacing them at, prematurely often. The computers do not like a battery that is in too lower state of charge and will punish you with unexpected warning lights and issues and unseen error codes. This can be despite the engine starting easily and the lights seeming bright enough. If required preventative charging with an appropriate battery charger maintainer will prevent the issues and prolong the battery's good functioning period of life. Great to see you asking about your new car to get the best out of it.

On my late 23 Karoq I can select speed limit warning at 0mph, 3mph or 5mph over the speed limit and have visual or visual and audio alarm. It does work if you enter a lower speed zone if you are over the preset limit.

New Mandatory Speed Limiters fitted now on new cars in the EU and ones will be here in the UK now even if the rules are not the same in Great Britain but are in Northern Ireland (Part of the UK.) It will be interesting to hear from members with new cars registered recently and ones registered in July 2024 how their new system works, or not.

Currently you need to go back to the 350 release if you want a mib1 high compatible release. Eg. The November 2023 release. Audi always released these files split into two forms whilst the rest of the Vag group released as a combined file. Mib solutions site goes up and down so I can't check whether they have layed their hands on a mib1 370 only version, what they had earlier posted was the 370 mib2 high version the same as the one Russian sites had in February. That early version atleast for the UK didn't change as far as the data was concerned from the VW mib2 high only one. If you had a Mib2 high you could have happily used that as I did. It's possible the 370 mib1 high only one is leaked out from Russian sites that find this stuff but failing that you will have to make do with the 350 only combined release. The Audi site behind a Audi VIN paywall may hold a mib1 high version for 370 or they may have just dropped production. That may be the case given VW are only releasing the file in 370 mib2 high version. Where you hit Google looking for mib1 high 370. Failing that MartiniBs back post providing the 350 link I suspect will still index into a version.

ZF Transmissions (I mean what do they know about auto and automated manual boxes? ) recommend changing oil in these boxes about every 40_000.

Okey thanks ! hope it will work with my swing !!!

No the 116 gets the dry clutch DG200 and 150 gets the wet clutch DQ381. DQ200 is rated at 250NM, DQ381 is rated at 430NM

sad to hear, but PayPal protection is exactly same level - wrong information on seller's web page cost me 700€ -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/?do=findComment&comment=5854160

A few aircraft from today............

@SteveTheElder the 1.5 TSI was a very nice drive!

Why would you "correct it"? A modern cruise control is a "speed control", not just an "engine revs control".

I have the same engine, probably the same year but I cant be sure as you have not stated yours. Look inside your fuel filler flap, half the area is taken up by a warning in huge bold capitals to not use Bio-Diesel, the words "Bio-Diesel" are enclosed within a great big red warning symbol like a road sign!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for your comment, but that’s not true — as I’ve learned, the break-in period is even mentioned in the user manual for the vehicle.

Will take a look. Thanks for this!

Stop driving it (obviously) and get it back to the bodyshop; there’s something they have not calibrated/fixed/replaced.

We have a Karoq and a Fabia but I have driven Kamiq and Scala extensively. The Fabia, Scala and Kamiq share the same MQB A0 platform and the interiors are very similar. The Kamiq feels like a raised Scala rather than an SUV. If you want a small raised SUV from the same stable then the VW T-Cross is worth a look. The Karoq is a different proposition. It's on the bigger MQB platform, feels a fair bit bigger than the Kamiq and you sit higher, you get more tech on the Karoq but the price is significant step up. Seating wise the Fabia and Kamiq are pretty similar, go for a model with lumbar adjustment and if mobility is an issue avoid the Monte Carlo with sports seats. The Karoq has larger seats but the seat base angle is a problem for some. As it's all subjective test drive them all and see what you think.

The "oil change after running in" is no longer considered normal practice, but for once I'd agree with your dealer and do an oil and filter change at half the interval to the first service.

I've used eBay without issue for 32gb cards 👍 It needs to have the correct CID (like a serial number) on the SD card so a generic one won't work.

Welcome to the BRISKODA forums, JeffffeJ - a good choice for a first car. Performance data for the MPI 1.0 motor are shown here The motor is normally-aspirated (no turbocharger) with a 5-speed gearbox and a relatively low power output. It will need to be recognised that the (quite heavy) Fabia Mk 4 fitted with this motor will not be a 'rocket ship', but that's fine. This 2016 forum discussion related to running-in/breaking-in/driving-in Fabia Mk 3 cars. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/387337-new-fabia-running-in-advice-please/ Apparently Fabia Mk 3 Owner Manuals contained the following guidance Driving in the engine The engine has to be run in during the first 1 500 kilometres. During this period, the driving style decides on the quality of the driving-in process. During the first 1,000 km ,we recommend not driving faster than 3/4 of the maximum permissible engine speed, not to drive at full throttle and not to use a trailer. In the range of 1,000 to 1,500 kilometres, the engine load can be increased up to the maximum permitted engine speed. I cannot find any equivalent guidance in the the Fabia Mk 4 Owner's Manual, but the advice above will apply similarly to your car. During the breaking-in period, when cruising on a motorway/highway at a steady speed - in your case (say) with the motor running in the 3000-4000rpm range - traditional received wisdom has been to let the revs drop occasionally (say to 3000rpm) to give the motor a 'rest'. However, as the MPI 1.0 motor's maximum power output is at 6300rpm, you need not be concerned about using 3500rpm. Drive the car in a manner you are comfortable with. As Classic has advised above, avoid letting the motor labour in an over-high gear and don't thrash it This (Australian) article may be of interest https://www.drive.com.au/caradvice/do-you-need-to-run-in-new-cars/

Having watched a video of the repair process it looks like you'd need to be an extremely good solderer to remove & refit the sensors yourself. I think you've chosen the better option particularly with a 2 year warranty.

Yes I think there are more modern sensors which use different techniques. But in reality 1 failure in 150k miles is perfectly acceptable to me

What is the OEM part number of the Sirius alloy rims? This will be cast into the back of the rims. Perhaps 565071499J 8Z8 ? I suspect they are actually Kodiaq alloy rims because the 19" Karoq alloy rims have a specification of 8Jx19 ET45 5/112 57.1 whereas the 19" Kodiaq alloy rims have a specification of 7Jx19 ET43 5/112 57.1 £425 seems somewhat of a bargain because similar alloys are listed in the Skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue for about £300 each. So even if someone doesn't want the tyres, the rims could be useful for both the Kodiaq and the Karoq. 225/45R19 tyres for the Karoq 4x4 or 235/50R19 for the Kodiaq. According to ETRTO, 225/40R19 needs at least a 7.5J rim width but the higher profile 225/45R19 is fine on a 7J rim width...and Skoda themselves have previously fitted 225/45 to 7J rims...most notably on the Octavia MK3. Bear in mind that Skoda approves 19" tyres in sizes 225/40R19 and 235/40R19 for the Karoq front wheel drive, whereas Skoda approves 19" tyres in sizes 225/45R19 and 245/40R19 for the Karoq 4x4. Out of these four tyre sizes, ETRTO only approves the 225/45R19 tyre size for a 7J rim width.

Hello all Charlie here. So I’ve got my new Skoda karoq sport line 1.5 tsi dsg arriving in late April/early may. I’m just wondering if anyone with a sportline has put a body kit on or spliters/defusers.

Just for the look of the car more than anything thing.

As a follow-up in case someone else encounters the same issue, resolution found: