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Mine after a bit of a tidy up.🤣

Sorry for not updating ! Yes front and rear disks and pads plus an MOT for the same price the dealer wanted to charge just for the front !

I sometimes go down into 1st from 2nd when I'm crawling along in traffic. Sometimes it doesn't make sense to come to a complete stop and then go into 1st. Maybe I shouldn't have mentioned this though, because this is not even close to the main problem I'm having. Every time you set off you have to go through the gears and 1st to 2nd is horrible 9 times out of 10. As well as the obvious safety concerns, it's taking the enjoyment out of the car. I've driven plenty of manuals. Owned a 2003 Polo and a 2011 Scirocco. Driven friends' SEATs, Peugeots, Fords, never came across a gearbox that feels like this. Don't have to think about how to change gear in any of those cars, it just happens. The mechanic was talking about "driving styles". I don't know how to describe my driving style other than I push the gear selector to the left and then down if I want 2nd gear. He then went on to talk about how these engines and gearboxes are time tested. My response was that it's irrelevant and faults still occur with anything that has been done the same way for a long time. Seems like the usual resistance to investigate and fix. Anyone have any advice on how I'd get this sorted under the warranty?

Travel assist / lane assist works OK in my opinion and I tend to leave it on. However, when you start driving 'country lanes', it constantly complains about driving in the middle of the road! Gets switched off when on narrow roads.

Sit it in a super market car park with a For Sale sign. Near the Disabled Bays. Just a phone number. Maybe sit near in car and see just how much interest there is.

That has been the case with all VAG vehicles for 25 years now. You dont need a check light to tell you that the engine is not warming up to operating temperature, your toes under the heater duct will tell you that. As you do such a high mileage and presumably work full shifts I doubt your engine will have suffered any extra wear, certainly nothing that could be measured or even detected by oil analysis through operating at lets say 20°c below optimum temperature, it will have suffered far less wear, many magnitudes less than most vehicles whch are driven less than 5 miles each urban journey.

Sorry I couldn't find an edit function. Something I want to reiterate is that it's only when moving. When stationary, with the engine running and the clutch down, or with the engine not running, it slots into 2nd every single time no problem.

Hello, never experienced any 'baulking' between 1st and 2nd in either of our M6 boxes. I do notice some slight added resistance from the synchro's if changing down to 1st in the Octavia on the move, but not something I would call excessive baulking - and not something often required, even on lowly 1.4. Will operate marginally faster with double de-clutch on down-shift though.

Yes, I've just checked for that year of that engine in my Polo workshop manual.

Welcome to the forum. I would think getting in another Master Tech or technician would be a better plan than waiting for them to see if another faulty one comes in so that the 'mechanic' can say 'They all do that', or 'It is a characteristic' At least he can not say 'Never seen that before'. Full factory trained technicians . Selectively, deaf, dumb or blind', put off fixing faults as long as possible. Someone else can do it.

^^ This! I think hard water deposits would be far more of an issue. That said, having looked at a few fluids that are approved for fan jets it seems to be more of an issue in cold climates. (Wurth for instance make a product called Windscreen Cleaner Screenwash Plus which they say is recommended for fan jets and quote "Due to the fluid's viscosity, a fan-shaped spray jet can be ensured down to a temperature of -15°C with 1:1 dilution" on their website. I've certainly had no issues using a generic fluid, mind you it's rare where I am to see much below zero temps, maybe -2 to -4 for one or two days of the year. Don't think I'll be changing until my current supply runs out.

I’ve been driving for over 30 years and up until recently I never had the option to check my mpg or average speed on an app. Thing is, back in the glory days of the early 90’s when I was tearing around in my Escort XR3i my mpg or average speed was the last thing on my mind. Same throughout the 2000’s with my various other cars, until relatively recently when apps became available to check such things. Point is, I didn’t care then and I don’t care now. Do any of you really drive like your nan just to see how high you can get your mpg on the app? If you do I feel very sorry for you, and would encourage you to get a life. My car is a tool for me to get from A to B, work, the shops etc, therefore I get in and drive it. If I want to put my foot down I put my foot down, if I don’t I don’t, the app is the last thing on my mind. I totally get the argument for driving conservatively in order to save fuel, but in reality how much in monetary terms are you actually saving, a quid in every full tank? Two quid maybe? All that effort and stress to save a pound or two, I’ve got far better things to worry about. The ONLY thing remotely useful is the health check of the car, although I suspect that even that isn’t totally reliable. Im all for progress, but this app just seems like a useless gimmick to me, and therefore not worth a second of my time worrying about it. Each to his own I suppose.

The Kilen online spring catalogue shows the following springs for the various Octavia MK3 VRS front wheel drive models. Kilen online spring catalogue Front spring (Octavia MK3 VRS, petrol and diesel, manual gearbox, front wheel drive) 5Q0411105HD Front spring (Octavia MK3 VRS, petrol and diesel, automatic gearbox, front wheel drive) 5Q0411105HF Rear spring (Octavia MK3 VRS, petrol and diesel, hatchback, front wheel drive) 5Q0511115Q Rear spring (Octavia MK3 VRS, petrol and diesel, estate, front wheel drive) 5Q0511115R The gknautomotive.com online spring catalogue shows the following springs for the various Octavia MK3 VRS front wheel drive models. gknautomotive.com online spring catalogue Front spring (Octavia MK3 VRS, petrol and diesel, manual gearbox, front wheel drive) 5Q0411105HC Front spring (Octavia MK3 VRS, petrol and diesel, automatic gearbox, front wheel drive) 5Q0411105HD Rear spring (Octavia MK3 VRS, petrol and diesel hatchback, front wheel drive) 5Q0511115P Rear spring (Octavia MK3 VRS, petrol and diesel, estate, front wheel drive) 5Q0511115R As you can see in the two charts above, Kilen and gknautomotive.com don't always agree on which is the correct spring. The Octavia MK3 2.0TSI 190HP springs could be used to change the Octavia MK3 VRS lowered ride height springs to standard ride height springs. This is because most of the lower powered Octavia MK3 front wheel drive cars have a rigid rear axle, but the 1.8TSI 180HP and 2.0TSI 190HP cars use multi-link rear suspension like the VRS models. This is an important point, because rear springs for the rigid rear axle and the multi-link rear axle are different, ie. they have different OEM part numbers. gknautomotive.com online spring catalogue Front spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TSI 190HP, manual gearbox, front wheel drive) 5Q0411105GK Front spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TSI 190HP, automatic gearbox, front wheel drive) 5Q0411105GL Rear spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TSI 190HP, hatchback, front wheel drive) 5Q0511115D Rear spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TSI, 190HP, estate, front wheel drive) 5Q0511115E Note that the above 5Q0411105GL front spring is actually listed for the Octavia MK3 2.0TDI 150HP with automatic gearbox, but it makes sense that it would also be correct for the Octavia MK3 2.0TSI 190HP with automatic gearbox..hence I've added 5Q0411105GL to the above chart. gknautomotive.com just list the 5Q0414105GK front spring for the Octavia MK3 2.0TSI 190HP without making any reference to the manual or automatic gearbox. gknautomotive.com online spring catalogue Front spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TDI 150HP, manual gearbox, front wheel drive) 5Q0411105GK Front spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TDI 150HP, automatic gearbox, front wheel drive) 5Q0411105GL Rear spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TDI 150HP, hatchback, front wheel drive) 5Q0511121AD Rear spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TDI 150HP, hatchback with towbar, front wheel drive) 5Q0511121AF Rear spring (Octavia MK3 2.0TDI 150HP, estate, front wheel drive) 5Q0511121AF Notice in the above chart that the OEM part numbers for the rear springs for the Octavia MK3 2.0TDI 150HP front wheel drive use a different format compared to the multi-link rear springs, ie. 5Q0511121xx are rear springs for the rigid rear axle and 5Q0511115xx rear springs are for the multi-link rear axle.

Yes, I know it is, World EV Day: 5 smart ways to save money with electric vehicles | Regit

Sorry to see this. I remember being reluctant when I first got my Fabia in 2008 about driving it in salty slush. I was the only one in our works car park with a bucket of water at lunchtime and people were saying 'cars don't rust any more'. I was reluctant to believe that and carried on with my car care (mocked by colleagues). All their cars have gone (most rust fails). The engine on these definitely outlasts the car!

Hey sounds serious I'd buy a genuine usb stick Sandisk 32gb and try again hopefully that fixes it

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Ah that's a little disappointing to hear about how inaccurate needles are on VAG cars. Through extensive Googling over the weekend, I found that on newer Audis, you can display the coolant, engine oil, and dsg oil temperature side by side in numerical C on the dash display. Would have made it far more obvious. On my car, it took digging through carista reader options to find them all. This is only the second car I've owned. I've driven approximately 280k miles since I got my drivers license. 258k of those have been in this car. Frankly, I don't ever want to part with it even if it will no longer be used a taxi next year. About the heater thing. The thing is, there was always heat in the winter, car was warmer than the house as I live alone and heating the rented 3 bed semi with single glazing and heating system that's 60 years old far too expensive. I might have been insensitive to how quickly it blew hot from one winter to the next, but I was always eventually warm. Again through Googling, apparently a thermostat problem would be more obvious if the driver was cold in winter, which I wasn't. I don't always work a "full shift", but the mileage is there. I never use it to just "pop to the shops". My commute from town to city includes 3 miles of dual carriageway near the start and end of every trip. Where I go for my shopping, I have the options of 6 miles through urban / semi urban roads, or 12 miles on dual carriageway and motorways, I choose the motorway option 90% of the times because I like driving in a straight line without start / stopping or changing gears. Hopefully as you say any damage in my case will have been more limited. When I drive at gear changing boundaries, since 150k miles ago, I always manually lock the dsg in the lower gear at 1.5k revs rather than let the dsg go to the next gear at 1.2k. And it was you who told me about the nifty gadget to help with EGR, that should have also made my engine combust at higher temperatures.

Yes it did! I got the update done at a Skoda dealer in the end (the link I had didn't work and it was in for a service last week anyway).

Disables bays? It's not an auto? Actually saw an auto listed on autotrder. £20k for a 66 plate which is crazy https://trackssuzuki.co.uk/autotradervehiclelocator/?vehicleid=202407252138420&VRM=MA66RZU&extref=&location=651787

Only if you have travel assist though, without it you don't get the capacitive steering wheel.

I didn't mean with force. Maybe a better word would be move. I've tried doing it a lot of different ways. The end result is always the same, the car decides if it's going in or not, and at what pace/how smooth it feels. It's inconsistent as well like I previously mentioned. 1 in 10/15 1st to 2nd gear changes are super smooth. The rest aren't. Tried pushing it all the way over to the left and maintaining a bit of pressure to the left as I pull down, tried moving it almost all the way to the left, slightly to the right, tried different amounts of force, always get the same result.

It does sound to me that you have a fault with your gearbox.

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Update: spoke to the dealer and they are saying that Skoda are aware of an issue and are working on a solution (seems that there a more with the same problem). they offered no timeline as they are waiting on Skoda to send the update. I called Skoda customer care They said to speak to the dealers. I explained that i already had spoken to them They asked was it an issue related to the camera ...i confirmed that is was and explained lane assist, ACC, distance control errors etc. They said that it was a problem that they are aware of and they are waiting for the factory to issue an update to resolve the problem She could not give me a eta on the resolution except that it would likely be weeks and not months I ask for a contact number/person from the factory but they did not give it to me (factory are not customer facing). I did lodge a formal complaint and received a complete reference number

Thank you, I have read them all...

You can choose whatever circuit you want to interrupt with the latching relay. "Cutting off" the battery negative cable would not allow the fuel pump and starter circuits to run which is what it seems you desire. The motorsport battery cut off switches are notoriously unreliable, cheap shonky contacts that are not capable of reliably and frequently carrying the starter current, choose your circuit(s) to immobilise with care, the lower the current the smaller the relay the easier it is to hide, the pushbutton for the latch can be as small as 3mm, not visible but you the driver will be able to find it easily every time by feel.

Hopefully just some firmware updates required - likely the Telematics module. Also get them to update Infotainment software to latest version. I don’t believe you will require the Display Unit to be replaced - I have H44 with software 2088 and since I had the Telematics firmware updated it’s been very stable.

Yes, you need H49 where this issue was solved. I assume you are talking about PHEV? If so, leaving it plugged won't save you from a flat 12V battery. It charges small battery while charging HV one, and as soon as HV battery is charged and charging is stopped, 12V gets nothing and easily discharges. Been there with the same issue, had to call Skoda Assist to jump start despite car being plugged.

Sadly ElectroVerse & CPS is not that great for some at some chargers locations. The cost is not less with ElectroVerse as the Price per kWh can mean a charge costs more than the CPS tariff showing for a charger which might be high for the 1st kWh then drop. My issue which is not really an issue as in i have still not had CPS take a direct debit payment and reduce my £200 + Account. They will get paid when they want paid. A few times i have tapped and paid on the CC and payment taken. Lots of CPS card use showing on the account and no invoice. They have the Credit Card number to take payment as they have taken a few payments since the new system came in and also done a refund. I changed from the DD being on a Current Account to from a Credit Card so that if they mess up taking any over payments as in the past i will have someone on my side. As in the Credit Card provider. It is the same for others, not just me.

We are in 2024 now & the OP has a 2023 Skoda.. Skoda have been building cars from 1905. VW from 1938. There is no reason for sh!te engineering. They are always on about Motorsport Heritage. No need for manual shifts to feel like a rally car gearbox.

I haven't owned a manual for about 20years, but FWIW, most (possibly all) of the manual cars I have ever owned had similar 'notchy' downshifts into the 1st & 2nd gears, but mostly into 1st gear. I'd always put it down to the synchromesh being less effective in the low gears, for whatever engineering reason that may be. I never really noticed it in the upshifts. Double declutching smooths it out, in fact many earlier cars didn't have synchro on 1st gear and even older ones had no synchro at all, so that method was a normal part of driving (showing my age now!). Not so easy in today's hurried times where everyone wants to arrive before they've even left, let alone exercise patience while you nurse your clutch and gearbox in front of them.

It would have been helpful if you had said in the original that it doesn't even crank What error codes disappear? Manual or auto?

Which is what it's meant to do.

Threw in a Carsifi wireless Android Auto adapter. Works flawlessly

Ive opened and repaired about 30 of these, there is only one magnet. Chances are the batteries are dead and need replacing, id be checking the voltage with a multimeter as if the cells are toast, it wont charge.

It works! Thank you for your help ApertureS.

They'll be in here somewhere: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/

Agreed, prices r ridon-culous of new cars now!! Can't get the performance, value and practicality of a Superb for the price I paid many years ago. Gandalf has now ticked over 7 yrs.....and I don't have any plans to replace it any time so soon 😁

Hey All, Just bought a second hand Karoq 1.5 TSI sportsline that has only done 1k miles when I bought it. Fairly happy with it, but concerned on how low the mpg is when driving in town. I can’t seem to get over 26.4. Most of the time it’s in the low 20s, some times late teens. It does well on the motorway though (40-50). I’ve been reading posts by drivers who claim they are getting well over 35 in town. should I be concerned with my new purchase, and get in touch with the dealer? The only other thing I noticed is that when the weather is cold it “kangaroos” slightly.

Hey, So around town is basically trips to the shops, school pickups/drop offs. Doing 20-40 miles, traffic lights, etc. Trips are usually between 1-4 miles a day, averaging at 18.0-21.0 mpg per trip. Last Sunday I drove 14 miles and only got 27.6 mpg. The average for all the cars trips (1,374 miles) is currently 30 mpg. I don't rev the car, or slow down suddenly, etc. Historically with other cars I was always happy with my mpg. So don't think it's my driving style either.

Hi all, I'm curious if there is a way to add "Coasting", which I reckon is the equivalent of putting the gear into Neutral (in manual gearboxes) while driving, to other driving modes like "Normal", "Comfort", or even "Sport". Honestly I don't like it when I accelerate then I let off the pedal and then I feel the gearbox slowing the car down... ? Thank you

How, in the name of the wee man, are you managing to get 66mpg in a Karoq? I like to think I drive economically but in the 3 weeks and 750 miles I've covered since getting my MY21 1.5tsi SEL DSG I am only getting around 41 at best!

So. It turns out there is an 8th screw just below the glove box release push button. Should wear my glasses more often. Just over my finger in the picture.