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Time is so valuable for you Graham, that you find giant wodges of it every day to post in this thread.

I don't care if the label on the bottle says "VAG 999-99" or not, as long as that meets or exceeds the old 502.00 specification.

What colour is the oil warning light you're seeing? Level sensor only triggers a yellow warning light, pressure switch is what triggers red. Pressure switch failure is often accompanied by oil within its single-wire connector.

👍👍👍👍👍 😘 Although I must point out my previous comments for using public transport or micro-mobility were egged on by posters such as yourself, asking for validation on my idea about changing the way everyone moves around. I have never talked about "how green" I am in virtual signalling way, this must be your imagination. Also, the point regarding following other's footstep. I have said it many times, it's about making EV the first option to consider, and then choose ICE if EV doesn't suit. I don't think anyone here is pretending EV can work for 100% of population right now.

That engine in the video isn’t an act version. Even the non act engine there is a locking tool to lock the cams and another one that stops the crank turning. The garage doing the video have done the old school marking everything with paint method and probably you can get away with it on the non act engines, at least the engine will run reasonably enough. There is a very expensive tool for timing the act engines that reads the cam sensors via the obd system to accurately check and adjust the cam timing, or there are some less expensive (but still several £100’s) tools that can check cam position without connecting to the diagnostics. Whilst you might not trust elsapro for some reason, the fact is that the 5 year cam belt interval pushed by all vw uk brands was not necessary on these ea211 engines, and as ootohere posted the uk is now on the same page as the rest of Europe. There have always different recommendations for listed high dust countries in the rest of the world. 1.5act at 8 years old and 75,000 km (or miles), in my opinion, doesn’t need replacing. Take the cover off and inspect it and I bet it is like new. If you really want to get it changed then take it to a vag specialist or Skoda dealer and get it done with the correct equipment. I consider myself to be a reasonably good mechanic and worked at a vw/Audi dealership in the past, I run a car with one of these act engines and have had 2 other 1.4 tsi Octavias, and I wouldn’t embark on a timing belt change without the correct tools.

Visiting Royal Navy patrol boat, HMS Explorer. The hull is good for 50mph, engine dependent apparently.

He owns https://www.pandahub.com/blog/behind-the-garage-door-unveiling-elon-musks-ultimate-passion-for-cars

This might interest a few owners of older Škodas, a stunning looking 1990 Favorit 136 LS from a 2024 video. 1990 Škoda Favorit 136LS Review - The Czechoslovakian Car That Made It Out Of Communism! - Enjoy.

Thanks @Lee01... I appreciate the offer... Having emailed them they seem to be able to deliver to Northern Ireland without the minimum order value and, as I'm over there in a few weeks, visiting the MIL that might work. If not I may be in touch. Cheers

Fabia project still work in progress, rear cage fitted and seats in, it’s a less is more

Can’t speak for those boots specifically, but I had Bridgestones out of the factory on my Fabia II Combi and they were not great. Didn’t last very long. Lousy grip. Replace with Avon ZV7s, they were OK for noise and grip, but perished inside three years. Now on Goodyear Effecientgrip on the Fabia and they work well. Quiet, excellent grip, do well in the rain. Currently have factory Michelin Primacy 4s on the Superb. Typical for Michelin they are not the quietest, but are hard wearing and good rain performance. When they are done I will go back to all-weather tyres like I had on my Rapid. Had Goodyear Vector 4seasons on that, which were great.

^^^ So do not get an EV, simples. Do not even stress about getting an EV, they are not for you. Time can be spent earning money / working for yourself or others and not going for meals or drinks. The saving on running an EV for business use can more than pay for time stopped charging even if the employee has a good salary. Maybe they make more than enough while not driving to make a couple of hours in the day not travelling worth while. The Time to refuel vehicles that can Ultra Rapid charge is not that long. Hence so many Tesla used for business use and Tesla charging. You keep missing that many reps or commercial travellers do some work while charging. The future for Log Hauling Trucks in the UK is already happening, and the Diesel / Electric thing as well. Different continents and different demands. In the UK the companies contracted are expected by the companies they work for to be reducing emissions.

Just came over to Skoda from a Vw Touran two weeks ago. I have a 2012 fabia mk2 1.4 16v. Although it's a lot smaller than I'm used to (and slower) is really grown on me. Even though I've just spent the last two hours under a gazebo in heavy rain replacing the heater flange! But it was fun none the less and quite nice having a fair bit of space around the engine. Well, a little more than I'm used to.

Just love the video thanks for uploading it, I have a 1998 Fleicia 1.3 MPI and would spend any amount of money to restore it like the one in the video so as I not have a lot of money I will just enjoy my Felly She just had a MOT and it failed on the rear brake first fail in 26 years so off to the garage for her Friday (at 80 I find it a little bit to much to do some jobs now) Here's a pic from 2017 she looks much well this today will try and take a newer pic and post.

You just pull the sensor out and fit it to the correct pad.

I forgot this one...lol

That's really good for a 2.0 diesel 👌

Manual? It might be the clutch pedal switch, does it still show the message about depress clutch to start?

Maybe related to electronic parking brake but I'm just guessing. Maybe check fuses ,assume all other electrics appear working lights,info screen etc.

Dealer did finally call and for 17" wheels Skoda no longer do a 17" spare so it would be a 18" space saver and cost almost £300 with a toolkit so I've passed. This would explain why the new toolkit is square as the space saver will be narrower so there's a larger gap to fill above it. For the MK3 the wheel was standard size so the toolkit was circular and fit in the middle.

@nta16 after so many years some things are unreversable in my car.

Little bit o'love goes a long way 👍 G

@wyx087 you seem to think that my comments were aimed you exclusively, well, that is not true, and I'm not aware that anyone was egging you on that you had to explain how you used public transport, when several people have already pointed out that you do happen to live in one of the best cities in the world for public transport services. I know other people who live in London and one person in particular who has sold his car because he can and does mainly use public transport because it is so good and as he says, it suits him, he only has himself to please, nobody else to worry about, and it saves him a **** load of cash by not having a rust bucket decaying and cost him VED, insurance and running costs, servicing etc when he can hire one for the one or times a year when he might need one.

Perhaps you did not keep a copy of the old maps before overwriting the SD card with the 2024 version. I have a copy but with its size 6.5GB it is far too large to transfer over the net.

@Krisb23 Welcome to the forum. Did you decide that it was best to have the DQ381 DSG serviced early @ 53,000 miles and not wait until 80,000 miles 128,000 km? Best get the car back to who did the service after speaking to the boss and telling them of the issues and finding out if the service was correctly done.

sch-koda is actually correct pronunciation, thought he sounds more like sch-koouda, it's pretty close. Favourite is not entirely wrong, since Favorit is Czech variation of that word.

What do you mean by "touch"? What did he touch it with? I though that I explained it clearly - yellow pulled to the ground - lock. Yellow disconnected from the ground - unlock. It's a position sensor input for the lock, not lock/unlock button input. Fact that it worked in the manner you describe at all is probably some debounce mechanism, which ignores disconnection that comes in short interval after the initial contact.

@OotohereI use EV haters term as that is what so many call the YT Vloggers, which most of them are not, they believe, like me, that it will lead to a 2 tier society. Most Vloggers these days are monetised and for many now, it is their main source of income, and so they, just like all other forms of media, are all seeking the consumers' attention in order to earn money, and then can be via monthly or annual subscriptions for online publications like the Mail, Telegraph, Autocar etc in form of direct payment from the consumer, or the YT Vloggers seeking money via indirect means from advertisers which is based on their subscribers base and the number of views, so they use clickbait in order to get our attention, so where's the problem, its advertising, and we are constantly being bombarded with it, even just sitting in our cars, there are the makers logos etc all over them in view. What really piths me off are those Vloggers who use clickbait to get you to watch them, expecting to see and hear something to do with their thumbnail and or headlines only to find it was a lure to get people to click on it grrr, that is pure clickbait and should be allowed, they are making deliberate false claims. The charging issues that some have or may not have and there many who claim that these Vloggers do it all wrong, claiming they do it on purpose etc, many claim that there is never any problems with chargers not working, this or that app would tell them in advance if chargers are free and working, are not always correct. Sadly, not everyone is as honest and agreeable as you are, and you said in many of your posts that they don't always work etc, and you have had to phone the operators etc. Then just as Vloggers will make comments and sometimes exaggerate, or perceived to do so, so there are many EV owners and drivers here who likewise do precisely the same thing by saying how cheap their EV motoring is and how green they are for using public transport when ever they can, and we all should all be buying new or second-hand EVs and following in their footsteps, when that is not currently a viable option, or even possible for them. With the Audi in the video and the pithing about selecting the drive mode, I totally agree and more and more cars are going down that route requiring more to be done via the central screen, something many Vloggers highlight as a problem with modern cars, and indeed one of bothers in that video actually did say that it was dangerous. Why not use a good rotary switch or a lever that you don't have to look at to operate? Certain features on my 2016 car have to be done via the screen grrr. By the way, in way did you mean that most Tesla's are 4-wheel drive now? The website only shows the Cybertruck and the model S and model X as being 4-wheel drive only, the Model Y and 3 come in both versions.

The language of this forum is English, you need to post only in English.

Has the 12 volt battery become discharged?

Great stuff. (& available with AWD. ) PHEV,s are going to make more sense for many compared to a Electric Van.

@Graham Butcher EV Haters is the term most often used by you in posts is it not. Most or all members here with an EV have had ICE vehicles or still have or will have.. Many like me think they as in what you talk about as EV Hater YT Vloggers actually take a stance or act as they are and use titles for videos and it is Click Bait. They are being sometimes making comments that are exaggerations on various points and often about stuff totally irrelevant to actualities. *They say something random and it requires comments from others to point out the inaccuracy or lack of being factual.* The thing with the Charging Infrastructure is that what ever the issues are some, many even that have no issues. They charge at home or work and use the public charging structure that suits them. Handy Tesla, Porsche, Ionity chargers and others. Social divide, have a charger or have not a charger, have the car for company / business use and pay for their own miles driven or not. Social, domestic, pleasure and pay for your own car and driving. Location location location, then class of car. Thousands in this country go to work and collect the car from their employers fleet. Nurses, Carers, Social Workers, Council Employees, Emergency Services / fire / police / ambulance etc etc. The car and even the charging is maybe none of their concern other than do their shift and drive what they are provided with, if they need to plug in during the shift or at the end then that is what they do. PS. 'Most of the Tesla are Four Wheel Drive Now'. Silly Comment. Like many silly comments in the Video. The Best Selling Tesla Y is not really an example of the tech in many EV,s, it is TESLA Tech and controls. The Drive in the Audi and selecting the driving mode took a bit of p!thing about and looking between the seats and a screen, much like i-drive with BMW,s, unless you are very familiar with the car and you can do it naturally, and a heads up display shows your choices.

The fuel filler is on the left rear side panel above the wheel arch, the charge port is in the N/S front wing, as you can see in the right-hand side photo, there is nothing on the O/S of the van.

If you find something from an EU seller I'm happy to have it sent to me and I can forward it on when I'm in the UK in mid October to *ahem* a nod's as good as a 😉

Get yourself a voltmeter that goes into the 12v socket in front of handbrake and note the voltage before starting car in the morning, anything around 12.5 volts is not good. Something like this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cigarette-Lighter-Battery-Voltage-Voltmeter/dp/B00DI4ZS7U

The second and third photos show the top mount (or bearing part of it) no longer at the top.

You could try this first.

So I just realised we are long overdue an update! So the level sensor was fitted and the fault codes cleared and have not returned. but the issue was, the headlights kept moving through their full range of movements. So I ran the headlamp basic setting procedure again and this time, they stayed still.... I have been using them for the last 2/3 weeks with no issues!!! So that seems to be fixed. So I think because the basic settings were done with a dodgy sensor, it was trying to find that dodgy reading still. So onto the list of whats left to do, and whats next: Fit rear bumper brackets to help tighten up the gaps under rear lights Still have to calibrate the areaview, honestly havent had time Work out if there is anyway of auto swapping between front and rear cams when going from reverse to drive Fit a small piece of trim between the rear bench seats The next big issue is, I have a very very slow coolant leak - as in 1 litre over 3/4 weeks. Now this could be a few things as its only appeared since I started touching stuff; The custom piping I have made is very slowly leaking for the parking heater The parking heater has an internal leak (used it without issue since so doubt this) It is coincidence and there is a different part of the car leaking Either way, its a pain to find as its so small, will consider putting a UV dye in the coolant to monitor it. Now for whats next on the list of possible mods: 10 way massage seats - Having driven the new Audi A8 recently and range rovers they offer a lovely pnemuatic massage function which involves a small air pump and manifold that inflates and deflates bladders under the fabric. Whereas the OE massage function is simply the lumbar support moving, This is 10 individual bladders. This is only an idea so far and if I was to attempt it, I would give it a go on the back seats first as its less critical if all goes wrong. As its not technically OE it would be slightly moving away from the spec Ventilated rear seats - the rear seats dont offer any ventilation and of course there is no option for this with the control panel and if I really wanted to fit this it would be a massive job. First id have to strip the control panel and fit a second row of blue LEDs that are controlled by a different circuit board. Then id have to tap into the control panel LIN outputs and work out what buttons output what messages and mimic this on a custom circuit board to simply do the heated side of things. I would then have to experiment to find out what signals the 4B module (which has outputs made for rear seat ventilation, as its basically a BCM expansion) would expect to turn on its ventilated outputs and what feedback to send back to the custom module. It is all possible and the fitting of the actual ventilated parts is the easy bit. It would mean pulling out my signal sniffer and making custom surface mount circuit boards again. Could be interesting.... Sunroof - this idea is still in the back of my mind and if and when I do decide to get the paint touched up on the roof and surrounding areas it wouldnt be the biggest job. The old roof is cut off to the sills, the new roof is bonded on with glue as per the OE instructions and then around 15 spot welds on the front and back faces. The biggest expense in tooling is the special laser weld grinding tool (£450) and the spot welder can be rented for around £100 for the weekend. After this all parts including the panel, second hand sunroof (from 2023 car) and the adhesive come to roughly £1000. But again, this wouldnt be considered for a long time yet.

Not sure if true or fake but quite funny either way......

Been a busy few days so some down time and fish and chips at Eyemouth this evening.

I hadn't thought of that. The door isn't exactly hanging off so that might have worked. I ended up buying new hinges for that door. I've no idea how to go about fitting but I suspect it's a door off job then fighting to get the door aligned again!

The parameter can be adjusted using VCDS, within a +/- 15% range IIRC.

For Ref they are 8.0x19 ET34 with 235/40 tyres, pics below show where they sit in relation to the body a bit better. I de-badged the rear too, it maybe controversial but I prefer the clean look.

Finally got the SL01's on.

A treat to myself after a wonderfully chilled out week on the Isle of Arran. Weather has been superb.

At Kildonan on the Isle of Arran. What glorious weather for my GFs birthday

Wouldn't a tobacco tin work just as well? A hinged tin is around £4 from e-bay and others.

been quoted £110-£130 to fit there are several help videos on youtube The part crosses many VAG cars (brand and model) Give the weather and my lack of will, ill not touch it myself

I know this is an old post but I’ve just completed this job on my mk2 estate front passenger window in around two hours and that’s with no previous experience at this job and basic tools. I brought the part from eBay at £26 and the fitment is perfect. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-SUPERB-FRONT-LEFT-PASSENGER-SIDE-WINDOW-REGULATOR-WITH-PANEL-2008-2015/392443860275?hash=item5b5f7a1533:g:h-EAAOSwDrpdim2B The linked video pretty much covers all you need to know. Two additions being that there are two of those retaining clips holding the glass to the window “runners”. The second is relating to removing and replacing the regulator. Once you’ve removed the glass you’ll need to remove the 4 bolts holding the “runners”, then the bolts holding the metal plate in place. After that’s done give the plate a bit of a thump to free it from the skin and wiggle it and the runners out the hole the plate was screwed to making a mental not how to twist the new regulators cables to line the new runners up. Honestly guys this job is a piece of ****. Give yourself a few hours and take your time. Good luck. 👍