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Wow!! So a cable was disconnected from factory but they charged you to re-connect it and not automatically put it through on the warranty or have I missed something about why your insurance is being claimed against? Did the infotainment issue and brake issue present itself as soon as you got the car back (i.e. have they completely failed to check their work)? I would be contacting/returning to the dealer ASAP as car that slams on the brakes at will is surely a serious safety issue. Never mind the rest of the faults they have introduced.

Hi, I picked up my new Superb SE L on Tuesday. Very nice, although I think I preferred my old one without myriad settings and the big screen. I will probably change my mind when I get used to it? I dont get any error messages on the dash about systems not working. I just get in set off and lane assist, speed and drowsiness appear to be turned off! Strange.

One of my online vices is watching those police chase videos from around the world. The UK police will stop someone, ask them for evidence of their tax/insurance/licence whatever, they then make off, get chased by the cops for ages, chase someone for ages, and after they finally bring them to a halt, arrest them and you get the post-mortem, you find they got a paltry fine and a ban on a licence they don't have. I like the Arkansas State Police. They don't put up with any nonsense and if you make off from them, you're likely to end up upside-down in a tangled wreck, with an angry cop bellowing at you with his gun drawn and pointing at you. The Brazilian cops are pretty spicy too. You stand a good chance of ending up dead if you make off from them. 😄 My point (FINALLY) is, there seems to be next to no deterrent for scumbags to drive around unlicensed/uninsured/untaxed/un-MOT'd in the UK, as the police really don't seem to think it's a big deal if they didn't catch them in the act.

Nope, it's not an exclusive Skoda thing. If you were to randomly read forums relating to any brand (including other VAG marques), you'll find such gremlins beset many if not most current makes, they're all stacked with similar electronics.

Aurora Borealis visible again. This is from Eastbourne, 9:30pm: Gaz

Don't underestimate just how much higher the higher fuel bills are on the petrol 4x4. Also do check the insurance costs of it prior to committing to purchase. @RWorgan's car would be an excellent alternative if you want 4x4 and can live with diesel, it looks well priced. Another plus of that car is that the Superb MK2 has the clever boot/hatch split, which I really like and is sadly missing from the MK3. Nowhere near as pretty as the MK3 IMO though, if that's an issue.

Were the connectors a result of the accident damage repair? Disconnected at the time and not reconnected? Sounds like a total cluster. I’m also confused about your insurers part here? How are you claiming that back?

Dacia here we come...

Hi HoistToCrew, That's my car that's been kindly shared by Gaz above and I can confirm that the 4x4 is worth it imo - we've done longer drives (2 hours) whilst towing a small trailer with absolutely no concerns with traction or loss of power, then we've done the drive from the south coast to Edinburgh and back and it handled like a dream both on the long motorway drive and on the smaller, more local roads like the A7 (or any B road along the south coast)! We've looked after this and recently had the DSG oil changed and the 4x4/Haldex oils changed by Skoda, plus a new timing belt etc and the guy that bought this as an ex-demonstrator was also very good at getting Skoda servicing and oils changed on time. We also have had 2 boys in the back of this for the last 3 years and it's been very comfortable for them with great visibility out the side windows and the L&K pack giving them rear blowers and time/temp is a novelty that they've never grown bored of! They also ride in the back of my father's Mk3 Superb Estate and say both are "pretty cool" so I take that as a win for us both. I hope this helps with the one you're looking at but always welcome to view ours if it isn't quite what you're after......yes, I know, shameless plug.....either way, good luck with your search

I collected my "new" Škoda Superb L&K 2.0 TSi 190 on Monday this week, which is a 73 plate registered in September 2023. I'd originally planned to buy a new mk IV, but circumstances have changed and we're currently selling our house and with little movement in the housing market at the moment, I can see us getting a bit less than we wanted for it if we want a sale to enable us to move on. This car was a big saving on a new one, so the money saved will help with the move. Our previous Superb was 8 years old and it was diesel. I'm 73 and retired some years ago, so we don't cover as many miles as we used to, especially in the winter, so I wanted to change to a petrol. Also, living in Brecon, we're a long way from a Škoda agent or a Škoda specialist if anything goes wrong, so hopefully a newer car will just need regular servicing for the next few years. The old car was brilliant and never let us down, taking us to 13 European countries over the years, including an annual trip (lockdown excepted) to Lithuania to visit SWMBO's family and friends. The new L&K has a number of standard features over the last one that are welcome, but it also has several optional extras including wireless charging, area view, travel assist and park assist, a spare wheel and jack and a rear wash/wipe. I've just about found my way around everything apart from connecting to My Škoda app, which I've tried several times without success. I'll just have to keep trying! The only bit that was not very nice was the road fund licence of £600, compared to £35 for the old car! Anyway, here are some photos after I drove for the first 500 yards from the garage with SWMBO managing to get into one). Yesterday, I went to Hereford in the wet with many farmers on the road in and out of their fields with their tractors, so it's already dirty.

ACC is very good and I would say well worth it if you do many longer runs

Except that as an untaxed car it shouldn't actually be being driven on the road... I know technically you are correct but it's perverse...

We'd be happy to take a look at this for you if you don't get anywhere

Maybe the windscreen washer fluid is leaking in the hatch - and that is where the "water" is coming from, just a suggestion, if I were you I'd be getting the plastic trim panel off and investigate before rust becomes an issue.

Glad to hear it’s got a new home. Did it stay in the Brisky family? are they going to keep it as standard as you had, or mod to bits?

Ok nta16, i will have a look for the name plate thingy out of curiosity, meanwhile i will try your suggestions on what could cause the boot lid water ingress. Thanks pal.

Just making a return after many years of lurking & arriving here from Google searches, may as well put some effort in... 🙄😄 Skoda Fabia 1.2 Classic

NOW SOLD She went yesterday to a new home. Made it back fine and has already had the front end tracked up a new waterpump and cambelt. So while my Furby is now sold I still have my PD A4 Avant and another one incoming so it's a step sideways really.

The Ferrari driver is to blame for overtaking when there was a Skoda wanting to do the same, or is it just the Repairer, it is not Skoda though.

Not USA, not Japan, not China to my knowledge. I don't think India did as well. Diesel were only push as lower carbon emitting alternatives in Europe, which is true on that single metric. Guess where are the diesel engine factories and which country's car manufacturer invested the most in diesel tech? On the other hand, ZEV (of which BEV is currently the only widely available option) is pushed by more governments across the world. USA differs by states: https://www.worktruckonline.com/10214784/which-states-have-zero-emission-vehicle-mandates Others: https://www.iea.org/reports/global-ev-outlook-2023/policy-developments Japan, without BEV knowledge and said "hydrogen in 10 years" for the last 10 years: https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/exclusive-japan-pushes-remove-zero-emission-vehicle-target-g7-statement-draft-2022-06-27/ This feels like a repeat of diesel push in Europe. What you say is what engine manufacturer (aka established car manufacturers) say. They have a clear vested interest to slow down ZEV adoption. Only by setting a hard target that is in the public eye, manufacturers cannot lobby the governments into the same situation that was diesel push in Europe.

Having issues with electronics is one thing. Having workshops releasing car which obviously does not work is another. And frankly, apart of VAG I haven't heard many of such stories, while for Skoda it is the norm and I had to deal with it myself multiple times. I could understand if they had a test run and all was fine, and issue arose later. But myself I had to come to puck up my car just to discover it does not work right still in the workshop.

To quote from your original post... If you limit yourself to no more than 3 years old, then your only option is a TSI. No different in the UK - I think the TSI version sold a lot better than the TDI... I've certainly seen more of them around.

If only my local Dacia dealership wasn't a branch of Arnold Shark...

Thanks for the compliment. There is an element of extra complexity and jeopardy with being an EV earlier adopter but also a lot of "fun" learning the optimising of living with an EV. Can be some massive cost savings, the sub 2 a mile energy costs is real and, whether entirely valid, us EVangelist get a warm glow in believe we are slowing down climate change. I am not an absolute zealot on this. Happy my son has the clio full hybrid, he sets off in EV mode, as the car management system dictates, ICE kicks in when it is needed for battery recharging and cabin heating using waste heat from the ICE, shame heat pumps are not fitted as standard on all car and I am sure the traction batteries will continue to increase, the new Superb hybrid has a 20 kwh making some 70 miles possible just in EV mode. Even helped by sister pickout a newer car. She lives on Dartmoor, not much public charging out there and in an older house no drive to put a wallbox or safely use a granny cable so she got a T-ROC 1.5 TCI with cylinder deactivation. Very economical, wish it had hybrid but still a good car with fuel consumption and emissions. I am confident the future is pure EV, the pace of improvement in both EVs and EV infrastructure is processing at quite a good pace and personally I think the move to EVs with occur by it simply being the right economic move for the vast majority of drivers as well as firms needing logistical transport. Your point out haves and have nots has merit and cheaper public charging should be a priority for all national government but it has to compete with many other worthy causes so is a difficult allocation exercise. Hope to see you in a hybrid sometime and maybe a full EV in some years should we both be still here and not with the angels.

Hi Rum4mo, many thanks for your reply and apologies for my slow thanks. The car went into a different garage to get a window regulator changed. The mechanics there thought the top caps, were behaving normally. The car will still go back for checking next week as it makes a lot of noise on its full steering locks, which it didn't when it was new, the car was delivered with 13 miles on it. So I don't buy the it just needs bedding reason for the noise. I'll let you know the outcome later. Thanks again.

Skoda state that approved used cars come with full software upgrades so insist that the dealer upgrades the infotainment version to 1969 before you take delivert. I had a row with my dealer over this and had to take the car back after initial collection to get a FOC upgrade.

If I hadn't bought a V70 back in May, your car was exactly what I was looking for and I'd have bitten your hand off! C'est la vie. Gaz

I'm going to spend some £££ on my 2018 vRS to stop me from swapping it (plus a lot more £££) for an Arteon R Shooting Brake / Passat R Line Edition (unicorn) / E Class All Terrain / A6 Allroad. Admittedly an automatic would be nice again and so would increased weight capacity whilst towing the caravan. However, now at 6 years old and nearly 60k miles, I've had the Octy from new and it's been 100% reliable apart from a driver's door speaker. It gets all the right maintenance. It's still on its original brake discs / pads and wipers. Why would I get rid of it? My to do list: - Wheel refurb. Silver or gloss black. - New front and rear brake discs and pads - Paint the calipers, matt black - Wheel spacers maybe, maybe not - Hunter wheel alignment - Air con service - Full detail - New mats - New number plates - New rear tyres (Goodyear Assy 6) - Open to other suggestions! Would be good to get opinions or experience on the Hunter wheel alignment. Is it worth doing? Here it is on holiday duties last summer.

I only made the point about the time taken to fill the VW because you were suggesting that it takes longer to make a journey inan EV than in a fossil car. I merely jumped into this thread (and boy do I regret that) to explain as an owebr of both a fossil and an electric vehicle that my experience is the opposite. Because the fossil one seems bizarrely unable to fill itself whiel I am havig lunch etc, it actually takes loner to complete a journey. I have no idea how long it would take to go from 5 to 100% because I am not in the habit of waiting for my car to charge. I plug in, go to wherever I have to go (work, coffee, toilet, for food or whatever) and when I am finished I unplug. So the process of waiting for the car takes maybe 30 secinds while I unplug. In the fossil you reckon 5 minutes, I reckon longer, but then I have 80 litres to pump after all. Although at Costco I only had to put in 75 litres.

Hi guys few times ago i have asked about some noise comming from the back in my skoda octavia 2.0 4x4 (haldex gen4) Today i have changed the bearings on it and definitely no more noise from the back 🙏💪 filtered-91F824B2-97EB-466B-93F6-9A3CC0083134.mp4

The dealership and an independent garage have quoted me £600 where as the car sales garage that I may buy the car from has quoted me £250 but I suspect that figure will go up as he is currently wavering.

You think somebody would break into your car to steal a USB stick? I am not too sure on that.. I would personally be tempted to just get a usb extension cord and put the usb stick on that (sitting in the well under the usb ports)

original(same as cloned) SD has specified hardware id number, which isn't touched at format/erase procedure

7 1/2 years old Octavia here, 95% long trips, but with longer periods between. S/S is still active but only after longer trips. Battery voltage is 12.4 checked with a multimeter) and whenever I don't forget toc check in Skoda connectlite, I see the same value - when stopped, ofc. No other electrical issues so far. I'll see if I have the time to replace the battery before winter time or wait until spring... Thanks for the information here to know what to ask for coding, as I won't go to the dealer (checked prices and for a replacement it's almost double for OE and +50% for other battery type they can install (I think Exide). When the time comes I want to go with Varta AGM and I see that there are some decent garages that have the new A7 type, so technically the battery should be newer and not "suffer" from improper storage on their shelves.

Hello HTC No, 4x4 is not a gimmick. Will it turn into a money pit? who knows 🤷‍♂️ but you can lessen the risk by looking after it properly (as Paws is referring to). I take it you're looking at the 272 TSI with a DSG gearbox. Have you seen this one advertised?: It looks pretty nice to me. I've driven several DSG Superbs this year, all 4x4s, and you can certainly notice the additional traction. It's a want for me though, not a need, so I didn't go for it in the end. Gaz

Resurrecting this to add an update. Dealer confirmed that the sensor was damaged most likely by a stone chip. Needed to be replaced and wouldn't be covered by warranty. Cost to fix circa £450 roughly broken down paint and parts £150 and £300 labour. I protested and it was suggested I speak to Skoda Customer Services. Rang them and had the most wonderful experience. I was treated politely and empathetically, being a loyal Skoda customer and the car only being 8 months old probably helped but who knows. The customer care person suggested straightaway that Skoda would be helpful and she asked me to leave it with until the following day. However, when I went to collect my car that afternoon I was told that Skoda were going to cover the cost, something that Skoda confirmed the following day. The car was in today for the repair and all good. So a happy ending and I encourage anyone else with a problem to at least give customer services a call, can't do any harm.

Find a delaer who has a modicum of product knowledge, as that's just not true.

Got same problem with my caddy van , absolutely inaccessible to do the job yourself Mine kept stalling when first started , I fixed it by taking egr pipe that connects to inlet manifold and cleaning that out then put loads of brake cleaner down the orifice on the block and cleaned that out

Next came the service. New plugs, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, cabin air filter, coolant and Ps fluid. Looking at this stuff, the car has not been maintained properly for years: The sump plug has of course been tightened with an impact and not to 15nm so i changed the oil but knew I'll have to do it again soon as 1. it was leaking out through the shredded thread of the sump bolt and 2. I was going to do it anyway as a form of a flush.... New sump and gasket. I decided to use a gasket as i would be doing this on a friends lift and didn't have to wait for it to cure: Old sump out. Lots of bits of the old dipstick tube..: Intake tube also full of junk including a full length rubber band.. This was removed, cleaned and put back on the car: New shiny sump back on. It was a bit of a pain to install the 3 bolts going through the gearbox bell housing due to the thickness of the gasket, but with some persuasion it all went in: It survived a 100 mile trip back home with no leaks, all good.

The battle rages on.. I wasn't confident in the 'flattened' seal of the cabin air filter tray, i so removed it again and used suitably sized bitumen tape to re-seal it: A few days later a large box from Auto doc arrived. It contains a whole timing belt kit from INA, as well as cam cover gasket service items. I wasted no time and started with the top. Cam cover off, all cleaned, replaced the chain tensioner sliders, removed the gauze filter and re-assembled it using new gaskets of course: The long life oil service intervals really aren't doing this engine any good...: Cam cover was leaking quite bad causing misfires: Next it was time for the timing belt itself. I knew I'd have to drain all the coolant out of the engine, so i bought a set of metal coolant pipes: They were quite cheap and needed cleaning up with a dremel and a burr bit. I also lapped the coolant flange to make sure it really sealed well: I then fitted all the pipes, they went in without any trouble: Next was the timing belt, I followed instructions from Elsa step by step. The hardest bit for me by far was removing the engine mount. It was an absolute pain of a job. The timing belt itself was dated 2009, and the hydraulic tensioner was held on with just one finger tight bolt... New belt, tensioner, guide pulley and water pump in: I also replaced the lower crank seal, a 35mm socket was perfect to hammer it in: I also used new shiny new bolts on the bottom pulley: As you can see above the control arms have seen a better day and will need doing too, for now they are ok - they don't knock or have any play. Aux belt tensioner was replaced too: I also checked the wear on alternator regulator brushes and given that the car has covered 109k id say they are 50% gone. Keep in mind this car has an automatic gearbox and heated seats..: New vs old water pumps:

Mot passed the other week and just been on a nice 400mile round trip all on one tank of fuel, quite decent for a big car.

Take the chip off your shoulder @Yogi-Bear. It was NOT irrelevant, and my point was well made. I was in no way calling YOU stupid in that post. However your triggered response to my suggestion that there are careless morons out and about on the road, and guidance has to be issued with such people in mind, coupled with the fact that I'm having to explain the difference between understeer and oversteer in greater detail as you couldn't grasp the concept when I made the point in a sentence, is evidence that you might not be the brightest bulb in the chandelier. That's a YOU problem. 🤷‍♂️ I thought I'd explained myself pretty clearly here. Oh well, here goes again. Don't be replying to this post telling me you know all this already and don't need me to explain it at length, because that is literally what you just asked for. Put simply, it's because of lift-off oversteer. If a driver gets a bit out of shape in a car, they tend to brake, or at least lift off the throttle. This is well known, so most cars are set up to understeer if you go round a bend too fast. When you do slow the car that has lost grip in understeer, there is a weight transfer, with more weight put onto the front tyres, and less weight on the back tyres. As a result of this weight transfer, the front tyres grip more and the rear tyres grip less. (If you've ever ridden a bike, you should know all about weight transfer under braking.) All being well, the car slows a bit, more weight transfers onto the understeering front tyres, which (fingers crossed) get more grip, and the driver makes it round the corner with the rear of the car obediently following the front. If this doesn't work, then the car continues the understeer and goes in a straight-ish line off the road. This front grip gain and rear grip loss is exacerbated if you have tyres with more grip on the front, even before the weight transfer. So if you have less grippy tyres on the back, when you get into your understeer situation, your most grippy tyres at the front have lost traction already, and as you slow the car while trying to go round the bend, you will initiate the weight transfer. At this time, you will lift vehicle weight off the back tyres onto the front tyres, and while the front tyres may regain grip, the combination of less grippy tyres at the back and less weight over those less grippy rear tyres at the rear can provoke oversteer. Oversteer is where the rear of the car does not obediently follow the front, but slides outwards turning the vehicle more than required. Such oversteer induced by slowing around a bend is called lift-off oversteer. Here's a fairly mild example of lift-off oversteer which the driver, who by the sound of the engine is fairly enthusiastic, discovers lift-off oversteer. While he quickly catches and corrects it, he ends up on the wrong side of the road facing oncoming traffic. So to summarise: Understeer sends you in a fairly predictable straight-ish line off the road, and is easy to correct by simply slowing down, which most people do instinctively without training. Oversteer is less predictable, requires skill to catch and correct, and instinctive slowing down makes it worse. The more grip you have at the rear, the less likely you are to oversteer when going round a bend too fast. That is about as simple as I can make it.

You're braver than me getting in that pit with the just perched like that!! Otherwise that looks like a good solid pass.

Well I planned an assault on the thick black sticky mess, armed to the gunwales with my weapons of choice; cocktail sticks, cotton buds and dental floss. And I'm pleased to say with a positive outcome 👍 But my hand's really not designed for intricate work and I was quite nervous about the amount of dismantling required, particularly for getting the smaller belt past axle pins for pulleys and cogs 😓 Anyway, a picture (or two) paints a thousand words: Better: More gloop: Chuffing messy work: Flossing was nicely effective: New belt: And the fiddly little sucker: And with much relief: IMG_0444.mov All's well that ends well 😁 Gaz

Very late to this thread. In the late 80's I got into hifi, nothing major Rotel, Mission, Sony. Then I got into in car entertainment as it really took off in the late 80's and had a side business as an installer. I gave up before it became all Max Power and sub boxes from Halfords. From the mid 90's onwards I started to get into Home Cinema. I have a running total and have spent close to £40k over the years and that's not counting buying media through the Laser Disc, DVD, HD-DVD, Bluray and 4k Bluray era's. Currently run Denon Receiver, Emotiva Power Amps, 11x B&W speakers and 2x BK Elec Subwoofers.

I am having to be particularly cautious at the moment as my recently excavated finger is still looking for any excuse to start bleeding again 🩸 And the inside of this unit has some particularly nasty edges that are just waiting to pounce. So my survival instincts were running high Dunno what the belts are made of, but it's really gloopy and tar like. Looks like it'd go well under the felt on my garage roof. New belts ordered and due in two to three days. Gaz

Eyes down, look in.... Preparation: No belt here: Something not quite right: Belt remnants around shaft: And on screws: Hooray and out it comes: Found the rest of the belts!: Came out easier than I expected. Suppose I might as well buy a replacement belt kit now 😁 Gaz

Replace it when the car struggles to start on a few consecutive days.

Dear all, it's fixed. It's like driving a new car. I love reving it in 2nd and 3rd. Thanks to everyone who contributed For anyone contemplating this repair, this is my feedback. 1.If I did this again it would take 15 minutes. 2.Get the right replacement part number ( stamped on the lambda sensor itself ). I ordered the wrong one first time. Ebay £22 3. You need a 22m slotted socket to get the sensor out. Ebay £7 4.Take the battery out for better access to the plug. 5. wear some tight fitting rubberised gloves to save your knuckles. ( I used gardening gloves ) 6. Pull the plug off the metal bracket. It's held by a rubber plug thing. You can push this back on after you have the new sensor. 7.Getting the plug seperated is the real problem. Squeeze hard with your left hand, while pushing a flat-head screwdriver on the tang thing. There's a YT vid on this. Once you have the technique, it's brute force. These were invented by the devil to make you curse out loud. 8.Use some copper anti-seize grease on the thread of the new sensor. 9.Screw in the new sensor before you connect the plug so you don't twist the cable. 10. Secure any slack in the new cable using zip-ties ( mine was longer ) and route it the same way back to the plug. Enjoy driving again.