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Time came to say goodbye to the octy, I just didn’t want throw anymore money at solving the over pressurising, I changed thermostat, radiator, auxiliary water pump, egr cooler and gave it litres and litres of coolant,, all to no avail, just a little thank you to you all for all of the help and advice that you gave me,, sad day as I really loved the car but enough was enough so I had to purchase another car,, unfortunately not a Vrs but a Honda civic 2013 1.6 diesel,, full Honda service history few extra options inside,, happyish with as I miss the octy 🤣🤣,, but I’m sure it’ll grow on me again massive thank you 👍🏻👍🏻

Are we there yet dad? Do we have to freeze to death because there are no chargers available and you Rented this stupid milk float rather than some diesel that we could go 1,000 miles in without needing to buy fuel? PS Everyone of the Ev'ers here have had petrols or diesels. They are not New Drivers or old without a clue.

Went to Melbourne last week. Was really busy all weekend Still slow but markedly faster than last time Found by pulling a fuse I could cheat the soft limiter and make it quicker off the jump. Fair spin to to Yorkshire and back, and getting searched at Holyhead is never fun nor surprising. Still got solid fuel economy. Persistent check engine light which is either the map sensor or a glow plug. Left with a lovely gift of 4 semi slicks in my size, which will hopefully be put to use before years end. Nearly at 170k so almost time for another full service, and test.

Not much new Fitted and wired in the spotlamps Usual trick of tapping the high beam didn't really work. They work in such a way that when the lights are off the high beam gets 12 volts with ignition, and no power on dips, then power with main beams. So simple solution was to use a blank from the parts car, drill it to accept a switch and run it so I can decide to have spotlamps only or at night (when the dips are on) they will come on with the main beam. Not ideal but useable. Video of them. They do help give more light but the lights on this are shockingly good anyhow. Snagged the rear emblem off the parts car, it has little dowels to snap into the boot which mine doesn't have, if I use it I'll just get crafty with double sided tape. Front emblem on the grille is pretty rough also. Also fitted my metros which I'm undecided on. Number plate surround is a bit much I think.

If the cops catch you driving without vehicle tax paid, they may not let you continue your journey. If you're lucky, they may let you tax it there and then. If you're unlucky, they may seize your car.

So this has been torturing me as usual. Running driving then wouldn't. VCDS said cam sensor no signal, so prayed it was just that. New one sourced, fitted easily. Cleared the code fine but still will not start. Pulled fuel lines, lift pump is priming, it is getting fuel to the hard lines to the engine. Rev counter is showing revs, cranking well. Belt seems fine no teeth missing etc etc. Only hope is injector loom. Pulled off the valve cover for a look and... It all looks very fresh. The parts car had 216k on it, I don't think this head has near that in it. Cam and all looks fresh, lifters etc look healthy. Very nice surprise to see. But doesn't solve my problem. Map sensor code still there but was there when it was running so not too worried about it, yet.

So got some odds and ends. RHR calipers handbrake mechanism failed, even though it's nearly a year old Otherwise worked fine but having half of an already meager handbrake is very annoying. Also fitted new handbrake cables at the same time. Gathered some bits to refresh the shifter New cable ends, new bits for the shifter box also. Can't post the before video but a vast improvement, still not amazing, but better than before. VID_20240922_202622009.mp4

Happy to do that if you want a short drive?

I collected my "new" Škoda Superb L&K 2.0 TSi 190 on Monday this week, which is a 73 plate registered in September 2023. I'd originally planned to buy a new mk IV, but circumstances have changed and we're currently selling our house and with little movement in the housing market at the moment, I can see us getting a bit less than we wanted for it if we want a sale to enable us to move on. This car was a big saving on a new one, so the money saved will help with the move. Our previous Superb was 8 years old and it was diesel. I'm 73 and retired some years ago, so we don't cover as many miles as we used to, especially in the winter, so I wanted to change to a petrol. Also, living in Brecon, we're a long way from a Škoda agent or a Škoda specialist if anything goes wrong, so hopefully a newer car will just need regular servicing for the next few years. The old car was brilliant and never let us down, taking us to 13 European countries over the years, including an annual trip (lockdown excepted) to Lithuania to visit SWMBO's family and friends. The new L&K has a number of standard features over the last one that are welcome, but it also has several optional extras including wireless charging, area view, travel assist and park assist, a spare wheel and jack and a rear wash/wipe. I've just about found my way around everything apart from connecting to My Škoda app, which I've tried several times without success. I'll just have to keep trying! The only bit that was not very nice was the road fund licence of £600, compared to £35 for the old car! Anyway, here are some photos after I drove for the first 500 yards from the garage with SWMBO managing to get into one). Yesterday, I went to Hereford in the wet with many farmers on the road in and out of their fields with their tractors, so it's already dirty.

Just checking - it's definitely not the rear level sensors is it ? (£100) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403769951592

Oh sorry man I didn't see that.. Thank you 👌

There is a planned pylon route passing about a mile away from and some locals are trying to get it stopped. They are all Nimbys but are perfectly willing to shout from the rooftops if their supply goes down etc, except the fact that there will pylons around, its the quickest and cheapest way to move power around, these same people are also conspiracy theorists as they pop onto the social media site that I'm a moderator on (over 10million users in the UK) and ranting and raving if they see a vapour trail in the sky from high-flying airliner, claiming that they are spraying chemicals to control us, FFS.

Flow Country and mountains are certainly a reason for a lack of chargers. Not a lack of pylons to get electricity to England though. What a load of guff while there are only 1.2 million EV,s and chargers going up daily. PS. Loads of chargers in Scotland are ghost chargers. Broken / Out of Service, needing replaced.

Mk III's don't prime when you open the drivers door. it's at ignition on with my petrol one. Thanks. AG Falco

My Skoda dealership, in London, have previously charged me £75+VAT to apply a firmware update - basically half hour of labour.

UPDATE: We had a visit from my brothers mate who was going to take the throttle body off and give it a clean...... however, it was spotless He then plugged in his OBD2 reader (his was £1500 - the auto electricians was £4000) - We turned the key on the ignition and got a "crunching" noise from the Throttle Body The throttle pedal was pressed and there was a small movement in the butterfly valve and a bit more "crunching" More importantly, he was reading voltages and % throttle values from the accelerator pedal So, it looks like those little plastic gears in the throttle body are f4ck3d (broken) We're now resigned to purchasing and replacing the throttle body VAG's network operates in a clandestine way when trying to get part numbers and prices ....... and we're not very trusting of aftermarket parts ...... so it looks like around £500 for a throttle body and £100 to fit On the upside once the TB is replaced I'll have a broken one to play with and I might be able to find a service kit somewhere and fix it It's disappointing that a TB has failed on a 6 year old car that has done 36,000 miles and has been serviced annually But we all know ..... it is what it is! PS Sensors may be this cars achilles heal as it had the Turbo actuator replaced under warranty in Feb '21 PPS Thanks to all for the supportive feedback ....... you've been great!

The DMF function is effectively in series with the clutch, so DMF wear/malfunction won't necessarily be accompanied by clutch slip. The DMF reduces harshness and vibration which you and your passengers will appreciate. However, it also protects the gearbox from torque peaks, which may have allowed the designers to make the box smaller and lighter than it would otherwise have to be. Only you can decide on the cost v benefit equation, but I suspect unless its a DIY job that the labour cost will comfortably outweigh that of the parts. Is a solid flywheel much cheaper than a DMF ?

I rather fear the damage has already occurred. Serious damage to connecting rod bearings (probably the knocking sound on your audio file) will be almost immediate once oil pressure is lost.

Thanks

Hi, welcome Dave. You might find more traffic and answers by looking at and if required asking on the 'Škoda Yeti' section of the site and its forums. Good luck. 'Škoda Yeti' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-škoda-yeti/

Battery and how it's checked is always my first thought on electirical and/or engine starting issues. Also forgot the GT85 details. - https://gt85.co.uk/

This is a common theme with some EV'ers they seem to misunderstand what is actually being said and automatically assume that anyone without an EV posting in this thread must have an agenda against them. 🙄

@robcouch Welcome. When the car has been parked a few hours the fuel pump primes when you open the drivers door. (I assume you go in the drivers door, not the passengers, in a garage or something.) Are you dead sure on the battery? How many miles has the car done?

Please don't misrepresent what others are saying, maybe you need to look in a mirror?

None of those say NO infrastructure but point out that the infrastructure is NOT consistent throughout the nations and regions.

All answers are in this topic. Please take time and read it. Peoples uses their time to wrote about it in the past so you could use this info now. No need to write it over and over again.

The rattle there is between the two skins of the lid. The outer one is simply a trim that can be changed to suit different interiors for the different trim levels so it should unclip allowing you to pad it out and stop the rattle. If it's not that then it could be the door trims that run from front to back and match the glovebox trims. They can rattle against the door panel so all of mine have been padded out a bit with some thin rubber pushed under them between the trim and the panel

They can talk some total nonsense. If there is a not coming to the UK AC only charger, surely is will charge at 22 kW AC so you can charge at Public AC chargers. (There are 43 kW AC chargers in some places but not really relevant except for the few with compatible vehicles. They are not going to do Renault 5 EV,s for other countries with a max 7 or 11 kW AC charging. If you are stopped in D with or without the foot on the brake pedal you can use the P switch, just as with a MINI, because they do not have 'Autohold'. You do not have to turn the car off..

Yes a tunnel cover is available, and also an extra cover that fits right up to the 3rd row seats that’s also great with kids in the back.

Car Code Reader,U281 OBD2 Code Reader DTC Scan Quick Diagnostic Reset Diagnostic Check Tool Replacement for Car Vehicle from AMAZON £23 Found it hard to insert into socket and hard to understand (maybe me)but it cleared the fault.

Thank you very much. They took the car back and Skoda Assist bought me back home, however I have not loan car available so, I'm now stuck at home until they fix it! The issue seems to have stemmed from the new module, because bar the virtual pedal not working & random infotainment system issues the car was in full working order, it wasn't doing weird things like clunking or self releasing the parking brake. What's odd is the Aircon is working, but the system says it's not! I can access that the reversing camera is working, but no radio, no Bluetooth, no media access, it threw a wobbler when I pulled my usb music stick out. 🤨 According to the system I've got 575 miles of fuel on board! Really for a petrol RS! Random manoeuvring thingy is shown, PDC is not available. If I can access anything then it works in the wrong way so off is on, on is off!

yes, it will work. I have 2015 Skoda Superb, originally MHI2 was installed

Except that as an untaxed car it shouldn't actually be being driven on the road... I know technically you are correct but it's perverse...

Who is saying that there is no infrastructure? All that I have seen anyone say is that it is not consistent across the UK as a whole, the East Anglia and the South East in particular are very poorly served as shown on the map posted earlier.

Maybe the windscreen washer fluid is leaking in the hatch - and that is where the "water" is coming from, just a suggestion, if I were you I'd be getting the plastic trim panel off and investigate before rust becomes an issue.

Yes it has. I bought it with blue, i have tested in the past 2 sensors with yellow ring and both times i had major problems. I removed them, replace with blue and everything OK. Don't buy cheap sensor as VIKA or "no name", buy a brand one, "well know name" in the market.

Only had a problem the first time I reversed up the slope to the brick wall, turned the ss of and now far easier, I have to get within 200mm of the wall to fit it on the driveway. Don't really want to hit the wall 😱.

New battery is installed. We’ll see what happens tomorrow as it’s going to be pretty cold first thing. It began to misfire this morning as it was 2.5 degrees. I’d hoped the Archoil additive had helped but apparently not.

Of course, and different seating positions as well. It can make things better or worse, but the problem never goes away completely. Moreover, I went to a seat specialist who made some adjustments to the foam (making leg side bolsters softer and wider) and pulled aside the metal bar which supports the plastic trim where seat buttons are. It has brought a marginal improvement, but the seats are still not suitable for me during longer trips: I start to feel some discomfort after an hour. After 3 hours I just want the trip to end 😣 It feels as if something is pushing to my hip and left buttock from below and a bit from the side. This sensation is gentle, almost unnoticeable at first, but results in numbness and sourness after a while. I am getting more and more certain that most likely the seat itself is defective: maybe something is wrong with the foam or upholstery sews. But it will be extremely difficult to convince the dealer to replace the seat or its components, especially after an independent specialist made the adjustments to it.

Hi guys few times ago i have asked about some noise comming from the back in my skoda octavia 2.0 4x4 (haldex gen4) Today i have changed the bearings on it and definitely no more noise from the back 🙏💪 filtered-91F824B2-97EB-466B-93F6-9A3CC0083134.mp4

No. Mk 1.5 if anything. Mk 2 is the all new model unveiled last year and open to order from earlier this year.

Next came the service. New plugs, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, cabin air filter, coolant and Ps fluid. Looking at this stuff, the car has not been maintained properly for years: The sump plug has of course been tightened with an impact and not to 15nm so i changed the oil but knew I'll have to do it again soon as 1. it was leaking out through the shredded thread of the sump bolt and 2. I was going to do it anyway as a form of a flush.... New sump and gasket. I decided to use a gasket as i would be doing this on a friends lift and didn't have to wait for it to cure: Old sump out. Lots of bits of the old dipstick tube..: Intake tube also full of junk including a full length rubber band.. This was removed, cleaned and put back on the car: New shiny sump back on. It was a bit of a pain to install the 3 bolts going through the gearbox bell housing due to the thickness of the gasket, but with some persuasion it all went in: It survived a 100 mile trip back home with no leaks, all good.

The battle rages on.. I wasn't confident in the 'flattened' seal of the cabin air filter tray, i so removed it again and used suitably sized bitumen tape to re-seal it: A few days later a large box from Auto doc arrived. It contains a whole timing belt kit from INA, as well as cam cover gasket service items. I wasted no time and started with the top. Cam cover off, all cleaned, replaced the chain tensioner sliders, removed the gauze filter and re-assembled it using new gaskets of course: The long life oil service intervals really aren't doing this engine any good...: Cam cover was leaking quite bad causing misfires: Next it was time for the timing belt itself. I knew I'd have to drain all the coolant out of the engine, so i bought a set of metal coolant pipes: They were quite cheap and needed cleaning up with a dremel and a burr bit. I also lapped the coolant flange to make sure it really sealed well: I then fitted all the pipes, they went in without any trouble: Next was the timing belt, I followed instructions from Elsa step by step. The hardest bit for me by far was removing the engine mount. It was an absolute pain of a job. The timing belt itself was dated 2009, and the hydraulic tensioner was held on with just one finger tight bolt... New belt, tensioner, guide pulley and water pump in: I also replaced the lower crank seal, a 35mm socket was perfect to hammer it in: I also used new shiny new bolts on the bottom pulley: As you can see above the control arms have seen a better day and will need doing too, for now they are ok - they don't knock or have any play. Aux belt tensioner was replaced too: I also checked the wear on alternator regulator brushes and given that the car has covered 109k id say they are 50% gone. Keep in mind this car has an automatic gearbox and heated seats..: New vs old water pumps:

Standard check in.

Good to see that someone bothers to look and find that the level of regen has options. (just a pity not while driving.) Something that many a Motoring Journalist never bothered to find and tell us about.

Wait until you are doing 70 on the motorway and the traffic recognition sees a sign in the coned off roadworks area of 10mph - #ankerson

CITY CARS, are perfect COUNTRYSIDE, real UK driving cars for maybe 1,2,3 or sometimes 4 people. Where a SUV / 4x4 / MPV is not required, or actually a total PITA. £30,000 starting prices are a p!$$ take really and a Petrol Mini might be a better OUT OF TOWN, VILLAGE or CITY car for people who just need to go places. Or one or 2 peoples that are not Vloggers / Bloggers, Motoring Journalists or car reviewers. OBVIOUSLY you can open the rear hatch and remove the parcel shelf or not and drop one or both rear seats without needing to be opening the doors and getting in the car. The picnic baskets were chosen because tiny.(edit) & the floor could be removed or dropped to have fitted them in and give more space. Maybe put the charging cable behind the drivers seat where there is no room for anyones legs and you are opening the drivers door to get out to charge. Take out the AC cable, charge, then when finished put back, no need to open the rear hatch. Especially if you needed to be all the way reversed to a charger. But that would be DC and a Tesla Charger. No idea why I never got myself a Paceman. Really nice inside. Probably they were just too expensive. Going to see the New Aceman next week. No driving them though.

I echo everything you've said. I've just downloaded Fuelio and it seems this might be a suitable replacement. But I really would like to export the data I've put into connect lite over the last 4 years and then wish about trying to import said data into Fuelio.

It passed, clean sheet as well. The MOT guy I use I've know for years and he said that he didn't think I was going "that far" with the car! He gathered his guys round to look underneath it with various expletives of approval. More pics of it on the MOT ramp.. Got the car back home - 23 miles now covered since rebuild, put it back in the garage and put the cover back on it. I have now taxed the car for the next 6 months, so I can start using it and putting some gentle running in miles on it. I might even get it to a couple of local shows so you might see the car doing car things for a change! Matt