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I had this problem for a while ie gear change getting stiff and making a creaking sound when hot. Its an issue that has been widely reported on here, and although I did the recommended things (change gear oil, clean cable ends etc) it didnt solve it. However I recently got to the root of the problem so I am reporting it here in case others have the same issue. The problem is a part called a Gear Selector Link lever, a triangular plastic part that goes between the cables and the gear selector unit. The long spindle (arrowed in my photo) fits into a sleeve on the top of the gearbox selector unit. This plastic spindle obviously degrades and swells and is unable to rotate in its sleeve correctly - this is where the stiffness and creaky noise occurs. Mine actually snapped when I replaced it and it was a bitch getting the stump of the spindle out. But once replaced and gears reset, its now a different car with gearchange as slick and smooth as it should be. The part cost about £25 from ebay and is an easy fit (if it doesnt snap like mine did!) - it takes longer to remove the airbox to get to it! But there are different but similiar parts. First one I ordered did not fit despite seller assuring it would fit my motor (1.9 diesel). But br referencing part number stamped on my original broken bit it was easy to get the correct one, which I should have done in the first place! Hope this info will be of use to others.

A few shots from Knockhill today.

VED is a tax that goes into the 'pot' and is not specifically used for road maintenance. Every car buyer pays VAT on a new car. If you buy a new Tesla above a basic model 3 the VED for the second year will be £600 as it stands.

All car buyers pay thousands in VAT regardless of motive source, another distraction/deflection attempt. It's not an EV specific thing. EVs have benefitted from favourable VED rates because of the Government's interventions in the market, it's time for those favourable rates to be scrapped

errrm to make up the shortfall in tax income from fewer ICE cars being on the road. The time is coming that those EV owners who like to make the most about the current situation will pay the price ;o)

A Vauxhall Corsa Electric did go on fire in Aberdeen, STV News, August. There was lots on Facebook about an EV on fire in Inverurie, but it was driver error as it was a fag end starting a fire in the back seat where there was a fuel can sat. The battery appears to have not melted much, the 12volt one. And what is melted under the bonnet is not the battery.

If the Oil temperature it was doing as oil does, and the coolant system and fans getting the oil back down near the 92*oC that the coolant is at.

High Warrior193, car has the digital dashboard, yes it's the oil temp reading.

The exemption for "Luxury car tax" ends for evs registered on or after 1/04/25

Beneath the plastic cover there is a tray, there you can find a leaf, tree branch, pigeon wings, dog hairs etc. Photos from Google search, my car is parked far away from home i i can not go there to take pictures. If you remove that cover to clean the whole area you can find in the top the draining holes (left and right side), if you push the electricians wire tool (in GR is Atsalina) you can remove anything which stuck inside of them and if you open the door you will see then drop down from the door's pillar.

I watched this recently, and I found it very interesting. The point the guy was making, is that water contamination in oil is inevitable, but it is not normally a problem, as when your oil gets up to temperature, the water in the oil heats up and disperses. The oil has additives which trap water and hold it in the oil without permitting emulsifying, until the oil is hot and the water can leave the oil. (There's info on demulsification additives in crude oil here, but not much on demulsifiers in vehicle engine oil knocking about online. https://www.biolinscientific.com/surfactants-and-emulsions/demulsification There's more in this video here, but it still left me wanting more. However if you run a hybrid, he says it is possible that your oil does not often get up to full temperature, if you mostly do short runs. I suppose this goes for any other type of car that does a lot of short runs and the oil doesn't get hot. So there comes a point where the "demulsifiers" in the oil are overloaded with water and simply cannot cope. (This will also happen with a water leak into the oil, as you know). At this point, oil emulsification (engine mayonnaise) can occur with the associated loss of the oil's lubricity, which can lead to premature engine wear. So the moral of his story seems to be, make sure you drive your car in such a way so you get the oil up to temperature to allow oil-trapped water to leave your oil and prevent oil emulsification in an otherwise healthy engine. The general gist of what he's saying makes sense, but I've never seen anyone mention demulsification additives in vehicle engine oil before. Does everyone else know about this and it's just something I didn't know, or are these demulsifiers a new thing?

You'll need a lot more boost to make the same numbers with a smaller, less efficient engine, more boost means more heat, more heat means more problems. I'm wasting my time sharing my experience with you, like most teenagers you already know everything anyway so knock yourself out. Good luck.

Passed a milestone on the way to work the other day.... I'm a child at heart

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back. The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay. The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area. The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear. To fit: you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess. Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe. The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe. Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards. Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force. Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo). You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up. Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it. The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out. As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum! Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later. The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard. Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from. Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay. Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together. Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click). Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe. Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness). Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing. That's the job done. Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything. From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

Yes my Sportline has aluminium pedals and oh how my wife is so jealous as she only has "normal" pedals in her Yeti. My life is is so transformed now and I have won several F1 races in my Sportline. It just seems so unfair the Skoda make people struggle on some models with "ordinary" pedals... On a serious note I do not have the Dynamic Chasis Control on my 4x4 Sportline (with aluminum pedals - did I mention them?) but from the reviews I have read online and watched on You Tube the DCC seems to have three modes "Sport" (stiffens the supsension and steeering), "Normal" (er, everything is 'normal') and "Comfort" which softenes everything and tends to make the ride a bit 'wallowly' - OK on motorways but too bouncy for everyday use. Most reviewers left it in "normal" mode as the standard suspension on a 4x4 is so good anyway. Over all opinion on DCC not really worth the money. However, you may be swayed by those aliminium pedals.....

Ehh I went round in circles on that one. same situation. Id say yes it’s easy enough. Go slow, and I found using my fingers was a lot better than using my pry tools. The only bit that was a bit fraught clip wise was the window switches, which are seriously tough. Managed to do it first time with no broken door clips. The rub is that the stock speakers are riveted in. The service manual does say for replacement they would be drilled out, and re-riveted, so this is evidently an accepted practice. Drilling out rivets is a bit of a pain. I removed the housing from the connectors and left the pins there, so no wires cut. New speakers were using Musway V02 full aluminium rings, which work great, and I attached using bolts.

First wash today, only had the car 2 weeks and front and rear mud flaps installed.

We had a few fires in our Bollore Blu Cars in Paris. Generally traced to homeless breaking in to the car and starting a little fire to cook and keep warm with. Secondary reasons for the fires.

Again you fall victim to the inaccurate hogwash splashing around propagating the tsunami of so called news which clearly does not make sense in that why would "all EVs" suddenly become more taxed than the cars governments of the world want their citizens to move away from. Please think more and verify before being another tool of misinformation for goodness sake of us all.

After a year I got the wee garage 4 minutes (walking) from home to change my oil. Using a pukka Skoda filter and a gallon of Opie Castrol. Pay peanuts compared with main dealer. Received a full page checklist too. An oil change service is simply that. Don't be fooled by the "sexy" video walk round. We can all count our wheels and tyres, wipers, etc. A few days ago I did the exact same thing with my wife's low miles 2023 Polo. I've got the air and cabin filters on the shelf for future use. £819 my arse! ps - I'm seriously thinking of buying these 2 cars at the end of the lease period in this ever changing climate we live in - so I'm not fussed about dealer paperwork.

I have no idea how it got fried.. car was running idle with ac on and then all the sudden it was shutdown and all errors came..

It's not doing that to me with Windoze 10 and (Blunt) Edge.

Thanks for reply. Had 2 Mark 3 FLs and it was easy. mark 4 FL says to enable via infotainment , however the option does not show. Skoda UK say they will get back to me. I was just hoping someone else has the same issue, or they have the beam assist working.

Hi @Breezy_Pete Managed to fix- 3rd fuse on battery cracked, changed pump as replacing the fuse didn’t work. New pump plus cleaned contacts and new fuses seems to have done the trick!

You don't have to take them off the road from what i have read elsewhere. You can sorn one day and re tax the next and "pay £0" for twelve months would then both be due end of Feb 2026

Unless things change on 30th October. EVS first registered on the 1st April 2025 First year £10 2nd year onwards £190 plus £410 if the list price was above £40,000 for 5 renewals Evs registered after 1st April 2017 but before 1st April 2025 £190 . No supplement. EVs registered 1st March 2001- 31st March 2017 £20 , This also applies to all Petrol and Diesel cars in that cohort that previously paid £0 The £10 annual discount for hybrid and AFVs will be removed, and the rate you will pay will depend on when the vehicle was first registered. If the vehicle was: registered before 1 April 2017 - this rate will depend on the vehicle’s CO2 emissions (check the current rates for this vehicle) registered on or after 1 April 2017 - you will pay the standard rate (this is £190 for 2024 but is subject to change for 2025)

I guess there would be a wire going into bottom of the fuel filter housing if there is a sensor.

I think the first year of EV is due to be £10 at renewal and then the full rate, currently £190 in 2026 but as mentioned in another post EV registered keepers are planning to renew their taxation date in March so EVs will renew each March and therefore extend the £10 rate as long as possible. I have tried to read statements on the application of the luxury tax to EVs already registered but whether it retrospectively applies I went for the Scenic with the RRP of £38k rather than the £41k to £46k versions of the Scenic so should avoid the luxury tax. Expect we will see a big drop in EV RRPs but less discount to avoid the luxury tax which should be no problems as EVs will be sold at or below cost to hit the mandated percentage of sales being EVs and margins put on ICE cars to compensate

It does seem odd. There is a location for mids inside the door - I did wonder if this would be a better place for my upgraded speakers / tweeters to live.

Mine has the same problem on hot days in summer when the car has been standing in the sun. Once the car has cooled down (driving a couple of miles with air con on) it is ok until the next really hot day. It is/was the same before and after changing the door control unit in the driver's door. I suspect it is the comfort control module behind/below the dash - the electronics not liking the heat. However it could be metal expansion of the microswitch operating lever. The Octavia II is different to that shown in the link. A small warning. If the door has been opened and the door open icon is not displayed. the car will self lock after about 10 minutes even with key in the lock. Always have a key with you if the engine is not running.

It wouldn't be an exaggeration to say that the feel of my car has been utterly transformed by its aluminium pedals. Utterly. So much so that it'd be the very first thing I'd buttonhole any future salesman about.

That is a really good point that I totally missed in the photos. I use old plastic spatulas that my wife has discarded (often for no good reason but I have learnt not to bother questioning such things) for jobs like this and others, having and using at east two of these on such jobs makes things easier. I have never used any of those protective sprays, I find them very annoying when on other cars as they are always messy to dealt with, as long as the battery terminals were clean and the inside of the battery terminal clamps are clean when fitted things remain fine without further protection but that might depend on the environments the car and battery are exposed to. Years ago I would put a different product on the cleaned battery terminals (not anymore as I have put) but if I did I would apply a thin layer of something like Contralube 770 with a very inexpensive very small artist's brush, to the battery terminals for the terminal clamps to clamp to and nowhere else. But others may choose or need to do different, if so buying a new can seems a great waste to spray a very small amount in a one time use for years, better to borrow some to use. Also covers can often hold moisture in, covers used to be available for old style ignition coils and distributor caps but they were never favoured for keeping moisture out and would be removed and suggested they were not refitted.

This is also from the link you provided. Colour coding of fuses Fuse colour Maximum amperage light brown 5 dark brown 7.5 red 10 blue 15 yellow/blue 20 white 25 green/pink 30 orange/green 40 red 50

To close the loop on this and potentially help anyone else who experiences this... It was nothing more complex than rust on the rims of the front brake discs. I knew from the MOT in June they were getting closer to needing replacing, but the rust had expanded to the point it was causing some rubbing at times. Discs changed, noise gone. If you get a noise like this, I'd recommend checking the outer edge of the discs for rust. I will say that's the first time with any of the 20-something cars I've owned that I've ever had a noise sounding like that and coming from a bit of rust on that part of the brake discs, and in all honesty it wasn't like there was 1cm of rust or anything, so I take it the Skoda brake-assembly doesn't leave much wriggle-room at all for slightly expanded rust on that location.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is there a warranty with this car? if so, I'd seriously consider rejection.

I honestly wouldn't bother with lane assist. I switch it off every time I get in the car!

Just measured - it's 44mm on mine, which is a 2020 model. Of course, there is always a possibility that it's something that the stylists have messed about with over the years.

As I mentioned above if you turn off the rear wipe when reversing option the random rear wipes stop. Just means you have to flick the rear wipe manually if required when reversing but worth it to stop the random wipes on a dry rear screen.

I've been busy and then I was sick for a bit, but today I got myself together enough and picked up 7L of coolant for the thing. I got the thermostat housing and lower hose off and pushed as much water as I could up the hose and out of the top. I got all the rust out of the jubilee clip on the lower hose, packed it with grease and rammed it back in. I got water and a bottle of coolant flush into the system and ran it up to temperature, no fan. Urk. I messed about with the radiator sensor connection for a bit, cleaned some green gunk out of the sockets, fiddled with the radiator connector. read the Haynes book a bit and finally found the missing fuse 17, shoved one in and now the fan kicks on and I can't make the thing boil over any more. In other news, I got a dash cluster with a rev counter which works which is EPIC, I can move my speedo with correct mileage into it, but the only glitch is that it expects airbags, which my truck doesn't have. I could just put tape over the warning light, but is there way to make the cluster happ... oh I can just take the bulb out can't I. ffs.

SOLVED: Embarrassingly... there wasn't enough fuel in the system to get compression and start. So folks, always think simple! 🤦‍♂️

This thread may be of interest. https://mhhauto.com/Thread-DQ200-0AM-DSG7-mechatronic-software-interchangeability?page=6

Sounds very similar to my DQ200 however mine will slip rather than judder. Like yours it's intermittent and it improves/disappears when driving in manual mode. Temperature seems to play a part but I can't identify any specific trend between hot and cold, dry or damp. I also have a suspicion that engine loading plays a part but have not found a way to investigate further. I suggest the following in this order: Find someone with a VCDS who knows how to interrogate the transmission system. My money is on a solenoid valve problem in the Mechatronic which may be sticking due to the lack of oil changes in the DQ200. ( Skoda say it's not needed, my 180k mile DSG oil change would beg to differ ). A VCDS showing live data can compare pressures needed vs pressures delivered to the valves along with lots of other useful information, but again you need someone who knows what their looking at....which isn't me by the way. If one is available, get the transmission software updated at your Skoda dealer. It may not solve the problem but would hopefully change the way your DSG shifts between gears and could prove that the 2nd gear clutch is actually OK. I had mine done but if anything it made it worse as the slipping became evident during other gear changes after the upgrade. Cost of an update should be about £100, hence this is one of the first things to try. Next thing would be to get the Mechatronic and transmission oils changed. As mentioned above, this is deemed unnecessary by Skoda, but that's total BS. No oil will last forever and it's a relatively straight forward and cheap process to get done. The only downside is that you can't change the Mech oil filter unless to strip down the unit to get to it and I wouldn't recommend that unless you get a repair kit with new gaskets and seals for reassembly. Cost for my oil change was £38.59 for the oils ( there a two ) + £75.00 labour. Next option would be to have the Mechatronic reconditioned. There are companies that will run benchtop diagnostics on the unit and hopefully identify what the problem is. Your symptoms do point to a bad solenoid IMO but they would be able to confirm. Downside is that you'd have to get the Mech unit removed and posted to the re-manufacturing company so you'd be without a car for a couple of weeks. A special tool is required to remove and refit the Mech from/to the transmission, it's not too expensive but it's only function is just that. Cost of a refurb in UK starts at about £700. Lastly if all of the above have failed, you may need a new clutch pack. Cost of this for me was £391 for the clutch, £323 for a new flywheel. The flywheel may not be needed but as the clutch is getting done it's saves repeating the biggest cost of the job which was £500 ( 10hrs ) labour. The new clutch pack has done absolutely nothing to fix the problem but did manage to drain my bank account by a tidy sum so this is why I'd carry out this step last. Now I didn't follow the steps above in the order in which they are listed and consequently still have an bad DSG. I don't know anyone who knows much about VCDS so point 1 has still not been carried out successfully. Points 2, 3 & 5 have been done and I still have a bad box.

I never get this kind of thinking, everything is electronic nowadays If your house electronics go wrong then you get them fixed, you dont bodge and bypass - at least i hope not! So why not do the same with your car? If you are going to garages that cant fix or diagnose electrical problems, you are going to the wrong place... and as you have started swapping random parts out (without a clue of what youre doing) the car has security features to prevent theft and you cant just swap random immobiliser parts out. Also an EGR is an exhaust gas recirculation system, not an ECU electronic control unit. Long and short of it - no you cant bypass the immobiliser system easily, take it to a qualified mechanic that is able to fix it. If we all had the logic of X worked years ago so why have Y, then we may as well get rid of all electronics and start hunting for food again???

Won't do you a lot of good - the ECU controls whether the electrical fuel pump runs, the injector timing and amount (no mechanical injection pump here), the position of the actual throttle valve in the intake (yes modern diesels do have a "throttle" valve and there's no physical connection between the pedal and the valve). So yes you can hot wire the ignition on, but the engine cannot run without the fuel pump running, fuel being injected or with an intake with the throttle valve stuck in the idle position.

Yes it does. If you PM me I can check. Thanks. AG Falco

The standard 17" wheel specification on the Octavia MK3 Scout is 225/50R17 7Jx17 ET45 5/112 57.1 If it was me, I would consider using less offset if going to a narrower tyre such as 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 Notice that the below 205 tyre is 2dB quieter than the 225 tyre and with the narrower tyre being a 55 aspect ratio tyre rather than a 50 aspect ratio tyre the sidewalls will flex more easily and give a more comfortable ride. The below 205 tyre is also cheaper than the 225 tyre...and the narrower tyre will also do more mpg due to less weight and drag. Michelin CrossClimate 2 205/55R17 95V XL (Euro label B B 69dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m140b0s8838p208583/Michelin_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Michelin_Cross_Climate_2_205_55_R17_95V_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_A_Noise%3A_69dB Michelin CrossClimate2 225/50R17 98V XL (Euro label B B 71dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m140b0s8019p208529/Michelin_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Michelin_Cross_Climate_2_225_50_R17_98V_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB The below alloy rims are from Skoda's accessory catalogue which are priced around 60% less than Skoda's ordinary parts catalogue...hence these prices tend to be competitive with aftermarket alloy rims. 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 alloy rims (from Kodiaq MK1) 565071497 8Z8 565071497D FL8 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3ArimDiameter%3A17%22%3AcarType%3AKodiaq%2BI%2B%282016-2024%29#

This is a complicated one ... try to record it, at least 😁

Thanks for this. Great to have the info all in one place. I'd be interested to know if there is any guidance on upgrades from prior versions. I.e. for those of us on 1896 or earlier, is there a need to install 1941 first, or can the jump to 1969 be made in one go? Would be great if anyone with knowledge of this can advise. Cheers!

Hi, all. Just received an update from Dana from Ross-Tech that it has been updated. She had sent me a file to update Basic Settings 04 in Controller 4B. Please see the screenshot. Hope this helps, all.