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I just did Kidderminster to Livingston. 295 miles. Averaged 3.9 m/kWh. On the motorway it was 4.2 average but when I came off for the last hour on twisty, hilly country roads it declined a bit. I needed three stops, two for toilet and one for food. I plugged in while I ate but stopped it after I had ordered and paid for my food (it's OK there were plenty chargers available) . In truth the car would have got home with 1% left after 295 miles. This was in November, with rain and 9 degrees. So not exactly summer weather. Autopilot set to the legal limit - it auto adjusts when it sees speed limits. I got paid £73 by my employer in expenses, charging cost me £8.63 ish from memory. The lasagna plus glass of sparkling water at Tebay cost me £13.57. Food is more expensive than charging. (it's OK work paid for that too)

@domhnall Didn't realise that was you. Have seen many of your youtube videos. Actually one of the reasons I chose it.

Pretty sure it's normally the headlight range for cars with halogen headlights As for the OP's car, it's probably for an aftermarket tracker which can be set to business or personal use (hence B & P). No idea if it'll still be fitted or if it's just the switch that's been left in place.

PS in my 295 mile trip last week I needed to stop 3 times. The car didn't need to stop once. Unless you're wearing nappies / Tena for men then you will need to stop anyway so you can replenish the battery while you "empty your tank" 😁

@BogdanDDB In your original post you omitted any reference to 'Diesel' and incorrectly referred to 'spark plugs' - if you have diesel, you actually have glow (not spark) plugs.

I had a similar issue, and joining the two ends together at the wheel didn't solve it. As above, the copper cores were corroded and black. A new piece of cable with the correct end fitting was about £70. I ended up cutting the cable in the engine bay where the corrosion hadn't reached. Then joining the two ends together. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512861-brake-pad-sensor-wiring-where-does-it-go/#comment-5777691

Personally I'd be delighted if lane assistance stopped working, it's b*****y lethal when you are driving on rural roads. Yes, I'm getting near the edge of the road because there's a ruddy great tractor coming the other way and I do not wish to have a head on crash! The first thing I have to do when starting the engine is to turn this driver "aid" off! Even on a motorway I've had it paying more attention to the gobs of glue where temporary studs had been than to the nice new white lines about 2 feet away and trying to steer me into the side of an artic. End of rant.......

Actually when doing 70 mph it is doing 70 mph. When you floor them from a standstill a you get up the traffic in front doing 60 mph it does that, and when you overtake quickly then there you are back at 60 or 70 or whatever. At Santa Pod, Crail or where ever you might well get your arse handed to you by a Nissan Bluebird or the likes.

Hello @geolik, The coding for the comfort turn signal is: Unit 09->Adaptations->Light_control->Comfort flasher set point:3 (MAX VALUE) Bear in mind that there is a restriction to max value of 3 for the MQB-Evo platform, compared to previous MQB platform. Even so, I don't quite understand why this happened since you coded the vRS theme (unit 17(VC) and unit 5F(MIB3), both are handling the coding for vRS appearances) , BUT unit 09 - Central Electrics has been affected. Have you used any 1-click apps? "Mult noroc!"(Good Luck!) D

UK’s largest onshore wind farm could be built in Greater Manchester https://www.placenorthwest.co.uk/uks-largest-onshore-wind-farm-could-be-built-in-greater-manchester/

Thanks for all your input, here's an update. I had a good look on the good ol interwebs after a good heater. I found cheap 1500w ones from china being sold all over amazon and other websites, or there were a few other options with Russian name and text on them but they are easily found directly on Chinese sites as well. I didn't feel like putting some no-brand china unit in the car as the consequences of a malfunction would be severe. Found this one sold by a small Swedish company, surely imported somewhere from china as everything is, but at least I will have protection through Swedish consumer Laws if something were to happen. It is 1.1kw with built in pump, cost equivalent to £130 with shipping, feels like good build quality and it has a serious electrical connector made for pre heaters and coupe heaters, and I already had a heater inside the car using that system. I went ahead and mounted it on the hose between the expansion tank and connector on the hose between engine and heater matrix with the thought that the water would have to flow through either heater matrix or engine. First placement didn't work as a problem with air inside it occured, fortunately it survived as I realized this risk and and filled the heater before mounting it. Moved it a bit on the same hose to a better location where the air would escape easier, and this time it worked, but... It isn't clear in the flow chart, but the water doesn't have to take its way through the engine or heater matrix, it just "turned" the wrong way and returned to the tank through the water pump and return hose, so nothing got heated apart from the water in those two hoses and the tank. I got mad and yesterday I finally relocated it to one of the hoses between the engine and the heater matrix. Made room in the garage, put the front end on stands, got under it, removed the plastic underneath the engine, squeezed my hands in to the tiny space where it could fit and got to work. Many swear words and some coolant in the eye later, I got it in place. Tested it this morning, it ran for 40-45 minutes before reaching it's set temp where it stops until the temp drops. I got in to the car and to my surprise the coolant temp read 75⁰c. It was +4⁰c outside (car says +6⁰c in picture but that's due to the heater, and during the night the temp were down to 1⁰c), so not really that cold but still. It appears to circulate the water through all of the engine and heater matrix as the temp didn't drop at all when I started the car. The manual says it should stop at 55⁰c and start again below 40⁰c, but it seems like it goes higher as the car indicated higher temp. Great success and so worth all of the trubble. A DEFA heater wouldn't come near these results.

It's surprising how much traction this is getting even though Michael from this forum has done it 7 years earlier with 560bhp and then 3 years ago he inspired me to push it further.

What happens when you press it?

It calls the US presidential election. Press it! Or Don't! It depends...

I’ve been running 1985 for a week now. Apple CarPlay is the same if you’re rocking an iPhone. The system boots faster and has some smoother animations. That’s about everything I’ve noticed so far.

It’s not OEM. That’s all I know.

Changing from a diesel to a petrol engine is a non starter. You have to change total running gear, fuel tank, ECUs wiring loom, instrument panel. Sell the car and buy what you want. Your friend has no idea about the size of the issue.

Speaking about chargers, it seems the apparent shortage of them in Chelmsford is beginning to resolve itself now, my local Esso filling station, a couple of streets away is currently having some installed, judging by the space allocated to them, I'm guessing that it will be a total of 3, still to be confirmed.

Hi! I live in cold Poland, we have snow here in winter although roads are pretty well maintained (but obviously proper winter tires are needed). I don’t really mind the cost of new wheels, saving few hundred bucks doesn’t change much, but I want tires that are the most safe for my family. I’m pretty sure I read on the Octavia sub that the Pilot were ranked first on some review, but obviously I’m open to any expert advice. I mainly drive in the city and highway, no mountain roads (Poland is mostly flat)

In the Summer there are often stories in the news about tourists running out of petrol and diesel in these areas because of a lack of awareness that filling stations are rather thin on the ground

I have a MIB2 so I'm assuming that option still exists on the MIB3, maybe that's a bad assumption? Hopefully other IV owners will chime in.. The problem with the One-Click app is you never know what it's done, and if it's not correct for the versions of software in your car then all bets are off. IMHO the One-Click app is a very dangerous thing.

But still a concern in other regions less well served by public charging hubs.

Yes because despite the facts about fossil fuels being finite, and the fact that air pollution kills tens of thousands of our people every year and the fact that it causes asthma (and apparently demeonti too) in so many others, the selfish attitude of many is "I'm all right jack" so if they can't be persuaded to reduce their impact on others and insist on pursuing damaging behaviour then the nbest way to change their behaviour is to give them a financial incentive.

Driving tired can be dangerous Driver fatigue causes hundreds of road accidents each year. And these accidents are roughly 50% more likely1 to result in death or serious injury. When drivers fall asleep, the police find no signs of braking, or any avoiding actions, so they tend to result in higher-speed collisions. We all know we shouldn’t drive when we’re too tired, but sometimes weather, logistics, lack of alternatives or time constraints2 mean we do anyway. However, driving while fatigued or sleepy leads to significant impairment of our driving performance3, increases reaction times and reduces attention, compromising decision-making and our ability to control the vehicle. It’s incredibly risky. Drink a coffee. Have a rest. And survive. The facts Fatigue was identified as a contributory factor in 17% of all fatal road collisions in Scotland.4 A quarter of accidents where tiredness was a factor resulted in death.5 A ‘microsleep’ occurs when someone nods off for between two and 30 seconds without realising or remembering it, often known as head-nodding. It usually happens when people are tired but trying to stay awake, most common in monotonous situations, such as motorway driving at night. A person who drives after being awake for 17 hours has impaired driving skills comparable to a driver with a 50mg/100ml blood alcohol level – the legal limit. Nearly two-fifths of UK drivers (37%) say they have been so tired they were scared they would fall asleep when driving.6 Almost half of UK drivers (49%) admitted driving after less than five hours’ sleep, highlighting that many drivers continue to drive when tired.7 Experts estimate driver fatigue crashes are under-reported, and are likely to account for up to 20 per cent of all UK vehicle collisions, and up to one quarter of fatal and serious crashes.8

Surely, this is an age related thing. I do find that I need to empty my tank far more as I get older than I did when I was younger, but I have yet to see anyone here openly admit everyone's need for a comfort break is not the same as anyone else's and nor is theirs the same as it was when they were younger, so, please can I respectively ask that posters stop treating others who beg to differ as if they either lairs or completely mad and putting other people at risk. Fact is everyone is different, my son who is in his forties can go all day long (over 8 hours) without the need for a comfort break or the need to stuff either food or drink down his neck, so let's get real can we?

dunno I just drive and like I said yesterday I got 5.2 m/kWh on the commute to work. sometimes you get better performance than the manufacturer suggests, sometimes not. Same was true in fossil cars. As for public charging, what do you mean by fair? Fair to whom? The CPOs have faced an over 500% increase in their standing charges this year. It now costs them over £1,000 just to have electricity connected to a single DC charger. Is that fair? Then they have to pay staff, office costs, maintenance, site rental, wayleaves. Shoudl they underpay staff to help keep things "fair" for the customer? Is that fair on the staff? There was a post on linkedin this morning by a land agent saying it's fair that they should charge CPOs for the future value of land at sites not what it is worth to them today, ie charge based on what a site will be worth in the future when every car is electric and demand is much greater, so they think it is fair they should max out their revenue now despite the fact that the CPOs are all loss making. They think it's fair that motorists should pay them because it's their land so it's fair you and I should pay for using it. You may think that's unfair of course. And then on top of all those costs they need to buy electricity on a business tariff - thiose aren't artifically capped by Government, in fact energy providers are covering the cost of your cheap oower at home by charging more to business customers .That's probably not fair either. Sadly life is not always fair and what's fair for you may be unfair for others.

glad they help, that'#s really the whole point. Youtube videos persuaded me that the Nissan Leaf was OK, so I am now doing the same for my current car.

Do you know the history of the car? Is it ex Police/Ambulance/Miltary/Motability? Does it have any additional lights, equipment or a non standard fuelling system?

That's AWD for you

It's slow that! 😆

Android here and is better now for Android

No it's the 85. The 60 was my old one. Used to cover Edinburgh to Milton Keynes with no issues. This video was a trip I made with the 60 from Rugby back to West Lothian in foul weather when the A1 was blocked suddenly and I had to do somethign like a 50 mile detour. *spoiler alert* it was fine oops

The hub centre bore on aftermarket alloy rims are usually be too big, so spigots would be needed. The below 16" alloy rims from the Skoda accessory catalogue weigh about 9.5kg each. For comparison, the 17" alloy rims weigh about 11kg each and the 18" alloy rims weigh about 13kg each. One of the below alloy rims has a 7J rim width so as well as the standard 205/60R16 tyre size, the non-standard 225/55R16 could also be considered. There are two standard 225 tyre sizes on the Octavia MK4, ie. 225/45R18 and 225/40R19 but the 225/55R16 would give much better ride comfort and provide much better protection from kerbing damage. 16" alloy rims (for Octavia MK4) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels

That is it, you cracked it. 470 bhp out of it and every motoring magazine, many bloggers and vloggers covered it. Much cheapness media coverage for Skoda UK on a discontinued model.

I don’t think all 4x4 Karoqs have the off-road button. My 2.0 TSI DSG Sportline doesn’t have that button. The closest “thing” is the Snow mode option. Is Off-road part of the Performance Pack?

High beam assist on my Sportline works amazingly well, the way it lights up the road and not the oncoming traffic or traffic ahead is great. Not had anyone flashing me to turn off the high beam.

Had this beauty for two weeks now. Absolutely love the car so far...apart from the ridiculous 19" wheels and 'rubber bands' otherwise known as tyres. I am rectifying that though as next week I will be fitting 17" alloy wheels shod with Michelin CrossClimate 2 tyres.

if you turn off lane assist AND cruise control you see on the odometer (on my Octy iV)

Some has 2 fuel filler on either of the rear wings or even under the front seats . The majority of modern ICE vehicles have the fuel filler on the rear wing might be a more accurate statement then ;o) Actually that takes me on to a related note: Wonder if EVs will ever get the equivalent (admittedly not a compulsory thing and I'm sure someone will some up with a modern ICE that doesn't follow this adopted convention) marker on the dash to indicate which side the filler is?

You should not have to do this. It is an expensive car, it should work! Take it back to Skoda and complain

I was wondering if it was option that can be added in one place only (on the mirror plastics) and not to open everything to pass the cable 😞

Manual vs automatic makes a ton of difference. With manual you have a lot more control over this function since the engine shuts down only when you have your gearbox in N and clutch is released. With auto, engine shuts down every time the car stops moving. Sometimes even a little bit before the car totally stops.

Hooray He found a camera useful, say no more.

Having one has been a revelation to me, especially when using every mm to parallel park and hooking up my trailers, a regular occurrence, I use it in addition to my mirrors and only for the last 30 cm. Its amusing to see either bystanders when parking or someone helping me couple a trailer making frantic hand signals as I get extremely close but the problem is to see and enjoy them I have to use my mirrors and stop looking at the camera, instead I hear their shouts of urgency. What would be really nice is if the image could be shown in the rear view mirrors.

Having a reversing camera for most people is a pleasant luxury, not a necessity. I have managed without a reversing camera for decades. Then I fitted one, and while find I still use my mirrors to reverse, the camera is useful for precise manoeuvring where there is a bollard or other low obstacle directly behind my car. Perhaps your post can make people with reversing cameras feel inferior to you, but I expect they'll see straight through your "amazement" to the childish malice behind it.

Likewise (well 39 years) and that includes driving a 32ft Winnebago but I can still see the benefits of having a camera...

When are you going to grow up and become an adult

True, but if u want ur car to b fixed when there r known manufacturer issues, then they expect u to take it to the stealers for servicing. If u don't take it to the stealers for regular servicing, then it's up to u as the owner to keep on top of the recalls and/or service campaigns, and have it addressed. Independents unfortunately won't perform service campaigns, nor address manufacturer recalls.

Hi BC, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of your problem, certainly not something you would expect so early on. From your detailed description of the start of the problem, it rather sounds to me as if it started with failure of the clutch-release cylinder - with the clutch plate possibly 'burning out' from resultant damage to clutch diaphragm and slippage afterwards.