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Wow, I wasn't expecting to start such a heated debate! Very mixed opinions and plenty of useful advice, so thanks. I think come 27th December, I'll see if it will start and if it will, will go out for a nice drive in it for 45-60 minutes which should replenish the battery. Being old school and remembering when starter motors and alternators used to fail more regularly, I've always turned off Stop/Start whenever I drive the car, so I hope that may have helped. If it won't start, I'll find the charger in the garage and leave it connected overnight, so hopefully it should be good to go the next day. I will report back here and let you all know how I get on! Cheers,

5th MOT passed with flying colours yesterday. The MOT tester asked if I was thinking of selling my car he would be interested. Unfortunately for him I'm not. Although it doesn't get much regular use these days I think I would regret selling my car because there is not much out there to replace it with that is as practical, quick & flies under the radar as much as a 280 does.

My wife's Superb was updated a week ago on 2nd December and there have been no problems since. She drove 320 miles at the weekend and all was well. She's finally starting to enjoy the car which she couldn't before due to the constant errors.

^^^ tosh. Total tosh. Lots of the. 1.2 million EV, wil be from the slower max charge generation.. the people maybe without home chargers.

Ah... but you have to remember that, on the face of it based on his posts, as far as he's concerned it IS all about him, his mileage rates and money... it seems to be all he ever posts about... (well... that and salary sacrifice and how much he puts into his pension each month)

EV Chargers properly ICE'd.

Agree ... don't give in 😁

Battery light wouldn't come on at all if that wire was broken.

There would be more pumped storage in Scotland if there were not those blocking the developments. Often Councillors. Same with battery storage. As it is there is so much possible electricity generation going to waste. Not being used because the National Grid does not take it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_power_stations_in_Scotland Just yesterday these vids came online. Where the communities do not want pylons do not compensate them if they go up, just triple their tariffs. IMHO. Just Hydro.

When I saw the subject "AV update" I thought Anti-Virus update not Audio-Visual update 🙃

Untrue and scaremongering, yes making the changes to the coding will be beneficial but the battery will charge and in time the Battery Management System would recognise the new battery characteristics and adapt accordingly anyway. Did you mean to right "won't charge correctly"?

For the benefit of all it's important to be clear that NOT ALL hydro projects are pump storage ones such as Dinorwig, Pass of Brander, Coire Glas etc. In fact they are the minority, most hydro projects are purely generators not pump storage.

Sounds like a subject @Lady Elanore could get her teeth into.

As is occuring around the world major hydro projects are being progressed so they can store the generated power from solar and wind for use by homes, industries and EV in the future to help make the UK economically a cheap energy place as low carbon. Over three times larger than the UK's most impressive engineering feat so far, Dinorwig, Coire Glas will be super impressive and I hope it going to do tours as Dinorwig use to do of the main turbines hall.

FL are cars after summer shutdown. So all cars produced from 08.2024. Until 07.2024 those are pre-FL cars still.

What part are you referring to? If it's the expansion tank, get one without the silica bag inside and upgrade to G12+ coolant instead.

I bet those with cars that have 11kw chargers on board will be glad of the 7mile.

I second skoda-parts.com, very good service, good quality parts with credible non-OEM alternatives. I do use autodoc from time to time, if you know exactly what you want, it is a good source of inexpensive parts and what you order is exactly what you get, at least so far for me. The trouble is you really cannot rely on the list of components produced for each oem part number typed into autodoc search to provide you with exact like for like replacement for the oem part. But if you know exactly what you want (as in from which company, ideally also with manufacturer's number as well as VW/Skoda number), e.g. brake discs can be had much cheaper, and with premium (geomet) coating, there is also much wider selection of e.g. tailgate gas struts and airco components. Skoda-parts is much more reliable in this respect,e.g they will show you Bosch injectors at a third of the price alongside exactly the same Bosch injectors with VW/Skoda number on them. Plus you can filter parts quite well by the car's VIN number. Back to the topic of glow plugs, I have been using NGK glow plugs for some 10 years now on 3 Skodas so far, including the vRS, the NGK ones heat up faster, glow hotter, and last at least just as long as OEM Beru ones, plus they take less current, though this was biggest difference on older models, like 2.5TDI V6. For plugs without sensor and the 2.0TDICR as in all Octavia vRS TDI engines, I think latest part number is Y1002AS or 8926, they are widely available, though on my last change I have used older parts Y-609AS 5849 on both the 2.0TDI CUNA and the 1.6TDI CAYC. For the pressure sensor plug, I always get the VW/Skoda part, last 2 from skoda-parts. Note that the single pressure sensor glow plug will be 3x-4x the price of all 3 remaining glow plugs... VW price gouging. Always replace glow plugs on fully warmed up engine, and do not exceed maximum undoing torque (2-way click torque wrench is helpful), if they don't go out at max torque, put some engine oil around the plug, try a couple of times more then leave it for a week of driving, a few thermal cycles plus the oil will loosen it up. Usually, what snaps the glow plugs is trying to undo them at too high torque on engine that is too cold. More info here

You have to have power fold mirrors and have the switch on the left mirror. When it's dipped, the adjustments you make are specific to that mirror, and only when it is dipped. It has a memory. I used to leave my Leon in L all the time. Shame my Octavia doesn't have it - it's a nice feature!

Hey! My car was updated today (dealer contacted me two weeks ago and let me know that they will receive update on 2nd December and will do update on DEMO cars before "trying" it on customer cars). I will post update if I encounter issue again (or anything else).

Make & Model: Skoda Yeti 2.0 TDI 170ps 4x4 6 speed manual Laurin & Klement Colour: Jungle Green metallic Mileage: 114,000 Price: [SOLD] Description: Our family transport, a much loved Skoda Yeti - owned by us since September 2018. This is the top spec L&K so has pretty much everything you could want. This car originally belonged to @Gizmo so has been in the club from BRAND NEW. Any chance we can keep the car in the club? This has been an amazing car, and was my wife's dream car - but sadly she's now fallen in love with the idea of a Jaguar iPace so the Yeti has to go to a new home. With this car being the 170ps L&K it has pretty much everything you could ever want. My favourite parts are the panoramic sunroof (WHICH DOES NOT AND HAS NEVER LEAKED IN OUR OWNERSHIP), the brown leather heated seats memory function (so my wife has her position programmed to her key, and I have my seat position programmed to mine), and of course the off-road button which means it can tackle pretty much anything you throw at it. Condition: Used - very good Minor mark on the rear silver bumper trim. Other minor age related marks but overall in excellent condition and well above average for a 114k mile car Sun roof does not leak and has never leaked Couple of minor marks on the wheels, but again - very good for the age. I give them a polish & wax before I put them away every winter Everything in good working order to the best of my knowledge, including ice cold air conditioning Note: currently sat on winter wheels & tyres which can be negotiated as part of the sale This car has NEVER had the emission "fix" recall done, so it's 100% reliable and does not suffer from frequent EGR failure like most do! 2 keys Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Maintained regardless of cost Folder full of receipts, including original purchase invoice and ALL receipts under our ownership Originally serviced on flexible schedule, with Skoda dealer under @Gizmo ownership and since then we've had it serviced on fixed service schedule by an independent VW group specialist. Last service May 2024 at 104k miles - it's just pinged up that it's due in the next 800 miles on mileage, so will try and get this done before the sale Cam belt & water pump in October 2023 Haldex February 2022 MOT until June 2025 Front wishbone bushes in 2023 New rear brakes & caliper in October 2023 due to binding caliper Summer tyres are 2x Hankook Prime, 2x Michelin Primacy - I will get depths when I can Winter tyres are 2x Nokian WR-D4, 2x Bridgestone Blizzak - I will get depths when I can Repairs under our ownership: Replacement driver's headlight due to LED failure New fuel filler cap actuator New clockspring Firmware re-flashed onto the Columbus head unit Extras: Rear mud flaps Tyre pressure monitoring Electrically adjustable memory driver's seat Spare wheel Heated washer jets Luggage nets in the boot Columbus unit updated to latest maps We also have the following for sale which I'm happy to negotiate into a deal: A set of winter tyres on steels and genuine Skoda hub caps (which the car is currently on) Genuine Skoda roof bars Genuine Skoda reversible boot mat Fluffy Yeti teddy Collection: Derbyshire, UK In daily use until, will be available on 12th December when we get our new car Photos are all from this year but when I get chance after the storm has passed, I will give it a clean and take some fresh and more detailed pictures.

@francescobettazzi -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/481828-amundsen-mib1-map-update-2020-2021/

I should add that if you are running two subs to even up the imaging (LF imaging being rather indistinct owing to its low frequency) then you could simply run the RCA out of the first sub and daisy chain them.

When I blew my Epos sub up a while back.... I opted to replace it with an SVS Sub. My room isn't particularly big and is rather squarish in plan view, so bass control was more important than ultimate window rattling. As it happens, I can not only rattle windows, but cause things that live on less substantial fixings to rotate!! I went with the SVS SB3000, which is the Sealed Box version as opposed to the ported SVS PB3000. The bass goes pretty deep owing to the driver being almost 14 inches across and the amp peaking at some ridiculous number. But the best bit is the Bluetooth integration they have as standard. I lined the Sub up using the Audyssey app on my receiver (Denon 4700) and then tailored the response a little. But further tweaking using the Subs app ,rendered even better results in some ways and it integrates with my floorstanders beautifully now. If you run a frequency sweep, there isn't really a noticeable peak as the Sub moves over for the floorstanders. Very smooth. But if I want it to go full weapons grade, it's a button press in the phone app and hey presto, I can make the neighbours come round to visit me, PRONTO! I'm pretty sure 2 x PB4000s will be more than enough, unless you really do like to bring bits of plaster down from the ceiling. They really are superb and surprisingly articulate for such large drivers. I'd try and get a demo and perhaps look at 2x 3000s as well as the 4000s

There would be a hell of a lot more threads on here with people trying to fix it if it were. AA man is probably harbouring the mistaken idea that any fault light is a fail. Never been true AFAIK, though often claimed.

At 56mph on the motorway you'd be a hazard and dangerous to other road users - and create a lot of congestion as wagons try to overtake you.

He hasn't managed that yet, still hasn't retrieved the charger from the garage. My Point, if he gets the battery hooked up now (with help of course somehow) it'll be ready to drive.

OP explained originally that he didn't want to further deplete any remaining charge by starting engine while he was unable to drive vehicle to recharge.

undo the fuel filter mounts, 3x torx screws (no need to disconnect hoses nor ground cable nearby), move fuel filter out of the way a little and there is enough access for this job and all other headlamp bulb replacement jobs. On the passenger side, undo the battery and shift it towards centre of the car, same effect.

Thank you, Tonies, for the info! Additional harshness would be fine for me. For a moment, I also thought of dropping my Scout to standard height and using Eibach lowered springs from Kodiaq with standard Superb B6s since I do not drive much off-road. But still not yet decided.

The person maybe never read the stuff they should of in June / July last year. Cam Belt Guidance change (1).pdf

Usually enough time to get a decent charge on most EVs. Not my air cooled Zoe battery pack but the liquid cooled Scenic. 15 minutes, 30 kwh, 128 miles of driving, two hours until I would stop again. Many EVs can charge at twice the rate of my Scenic.

My previous Elegance didn't have memory seats and suffered from this random mirror dip position (once I enabled it using VCDS), but my current L&K has a memory drivers seat and the mirror dip works perfectly (so long as I have the mirror switch in the L position - nearside on a RHD car).

Yep, that was rod knock. In the words of Mat Armstrong - engine very bad. The assumption should always be that you can drive unless something comes up on the dash. If something does, stop immediately - especially if it's temperature or oil related. While unlikely, a decent blown turbo/oil leak does make quite a big fire risk. The EA888.3 is a very reliable engine. It can have therm/pump/PCV issues, as well as a pretty high oil consumption, but generally it's a very good engine. Did Skoda say what happended? From what you've said, it sounds like oil starvation (clogged filter, blocked pickup, lack of regular changes), pump failure, PCV issues or the turbo shi***** itself. Value wise - £4000-5000? Depends if you'll break it or sell it as is.

this is a how-to-guide i created many years ago..... Removing Front Bumper.pdf this is the "behind the scenes" view of the bumper......

Plus, if you don't have memory seats, the mirror dipped position can be a little random.

Mine is a 2023 and I get the same message even though all mk4 have atleast 2 LTE antennas

Try this... Skoda Super III - General body repairs exterior.pdf OPtherwise, note, that you can suscribe a 1-hour access to Elsawyn and download all required files. 😉

Yep looks like the right one & £25 including postage to Switzerland seems a great price.. Have you used them before? After Xmas I need to replace the steering position sensor used for the AFS cornering lights. I'll see if I can order both together to save on shipping.. Thank AG Falco 👍 Gabbo

https://www.skoda.co.uk/buy/ev-buying-changes Looks like you buy them directly from Skoda and the delivery/handover is done at your selected dealer.

An extremely expensive experience. No engine should ever be run if an oil pressure fault is indicated and no fault warning should ever be ignored. Serious damage will result from running, even for only a very short distance.

Incorrect, your AC compressor is a non clutch type whose modulating valve circulates refrigerant 100% of the time even when you believe it is switched off albeit at a reduced duty cycle.

One interesting point nobody has mentioned (I think) is that the compressor chucks out nice dry air. During the summer, when it's hot, I'll run the a/c for obvious reasons (usually just on screen and vents at about 19°). In spring and autumn I usually have it at 18/19° but with a/c off. Of course, in winter, it doesn't make sense to have a/c on, but I always have it on and set at 20°. When the air is damp, and the interior has wet feet or whatever, having the a/c on prevents any damp. Another thing is to get a nice air freshener jar thing, and some silica moisture absorbing bags. These, combined with the a/c, mean the car stays fresh and dry all year round. I hate damp in cars.

Yes, normally there is no warning lights or any indication that regen is happening. They tried to make it user friendly so that one cud drive the car whitout even noticing the regens. Typically people notice it when they park the car during a active regen because of the fan staying on and burning smell. During driving one can notice the higher rpms and increased idle rpms.

Before a PDI the pressures are more like 50 psi from being in transit. Factory on to Transporters with Transit Blocks in and the car strapped down, on and off ferries, car transporters. They do not arrive at a dealers at 42 PSI unless the car is prepared at some other distribution centre.

Whoops ,Sounds like somebody didn't do a PDI

This is mine. The short cable is “handed”, so had to go to the left, but short enough not to impede anything.

Bilstein B6 shock absorbers aren't a modification as far as car insurance is concerned. Someone previously contacted their insurance company to confirm this. If they were, the insurance companies would have to decide which aftermarket replacement shock absorbers modified your car and which aftermarket shock absorbers didn't modify your car. This would be an impossible task for the insurance companies. If the outside appearance of the aftermarket replacement shock absorbers looks similar to the original ones then they are not modifying the car. Sometimes, Bilstein B6 absorbers are very similar internally to Bilstein B4 shock absorbers. If in doubt about this, then check the Bilstein B6 shock absorbers that Bilstein sells for Dacias. They just look like Bilstein B4 shock absorbers that have been painted yellow, and are sold at a low price. So Bilstein B6 doesn't always mean you are getting anything special. Most aftermarket shock absorbers are not identical to what was fitted in the factory. The aftermarket shock absorber brands use a one size fits all approach because they sell one shock absorber to replace possibly dozens of factory fitted shock absorbers. So technically, nearly all aftermarket shock absorbers are different from standard but are not regarded as a modification. Bilstein B4 front shock absorber (for the Karoq) Bilstein B6 front shock absorber (for Karoq)

First thing i'd check is if you have added any LED interior lights or LED boot lights. I added LED boot lights to mine and now if anyone turns on the rear interior/reading light then I get boot open warnings.

Just replaced my fan just about the same way as your post. The only difference is I had to drill 2 holes in the lower glove box to access both the upper fan fixing screws. I had been putting it off for about 2 years as knew it would be a long job. Then read your post and thought I would give it a go . 2 hours later all done and only £15 from a ebay breaker for the fan. Thanks for the short cut info.