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What I said in post 2 of this thread. From 2017 to 2021 I lived in north Devon and drove a 1.4TSI manual Octavia combi and never had any problems with the steep hills there (the steepest I regularly used was a 1 in 3 near Lynton). @Oct@via13 I think you need to get someone with VCDS or OBDeleven to do a diagnostic scan as your mpg and hill climbing issue really do say to me that there is a problem with your Octavia. Just because it passed the MOT and had a service done does not mean there isn't a problem.

No, I think it would be far better to find a local Briskoda member with VCDS or OBDeleven to get a fault scan done first. Here's a link to the thread with a list of Briskoda members with VCDS List of VCDS Owners

Also movement/stickiness in the vacuum advance mechanism and baseplate.

However, if there is any play in the distributor shaft itself, this could have a significant effect on dwell angle and timing.

A few more pics. Today we swapped the engine accessories over, different cooling system. The diner engine had different gearbox cooling setup. That's sorted now. Wiring loom had 2 different plugs, DPF sensors were missing on the old engine. Flywheel was wrong. Mine is gone, but was lucky to get the engine with the fly wheel, but alas, wrong part number. New one on the way. Turbo rebuild next week. Will update later on! Just to add, oil pump and wet belt were checked and appeared to be working fine.

The 1990's called and wanted their throttle cable back...

I'd be checking air filter and spark plugs plus boost hoses for leaks etc, followed by a check for binding brakes for starters. I'd then try and get a full vcds or similar scan done.

Or, (if not Brisky member) ........ trusted / recommended independent garages are better than official dealerships IMO. Same reasoning as your fears......... At best they can be ridiculously expensive.

After having the facelift for nearly two months now, the best way to describe the improvements from pre to post facelift is that all aspects of the car are more refined/fine tuned. I am not saying that the pre facelift was bad but it feels like Skoda has looked at the weaker points and tried to correct them. Best way to compare is when Apple released S versions of their iPhones e.g. iPhone 6 to iPhone 6S - the 6S was just a better all rounder and consumer experience (hardware and software was more in sync and refined)! Hope this makes sense.

I'd get the car checked out if I were you... With that performance and mpg it sounds like something is wrong...

At least with the non 4x4 you don’t have to do Haldex oil changes and filter cleaning (I believe dealers don’t clean the filter but should). Even though the 4x4 would be better for towing if it didn’t have factory fitted tow bar then the car could overheat when towing because factory fitted then means bigger fans I believe

I've pointed this out before @wyx087, you really need to curb your urge to tell people to live their lives according to ways you've recently decided are how things ought to be done. People don't like being told what they may or may not drive or eat, and they will push back increasingly assertively in resisting having their lives run by unelected, self-appointed, well-intentioned do-gooders determined to "save the planet" no matter what the cost to Europeans, but invariably without inconveniencing "developing" countries. No! Bad Wyx!

If I remember correctly, there is a setting for the rear wiper to be activated when reversing. If this is ON then the rear wiper will also wipe one time for every 10 wipes of the front window when going forward. Turning off this setting solves the issue.

No, and here's why. CO2 is not a bad gas, it's a good gas that is essential for life on this planet. That is why there is a market for CO2 generators. The whole "CO2 is bad!" campaign is dishonest and as you revealed earlier, more about "redistributing" wealth.

I'd never rely on my car to slow me down, thankfully I just have standard CC. ACC is only looking at the car immediately in front, I look way further ahead than that. As for slowing/braking i tend to use the stalk control and cancel CC if needed, then hit the resume button when safe to do so, or just use the up/down buttons to adjust the speed.

Incorrect positioning of the rotor shouldn't directly affect the ignition timing - but you may possibly get a weaker spark as the gap increases from the rotor to the required spark lead contact. Ideally, the points should open while the rotor arm is closest to the external plug contact, but there will a fair degree of tolerance because rotor contacts are normally curved.

Sorry I cannot find the answer here so: I'd like to know if it is possible to have the rear lights come on with the DRLs?

Thanks Mike! I’m pretty handy with most things, and my best mate is a time served VAG tech, but it’s always handy to know somewhere for those ‘just in case’ occasions

They don't, since it's not written in the workshop manual in maintenance chapter. There's a second fan actually, for factory fitted tow bar. I do drive a TDI190 DSG6 4x4 L&K (MY18). I wanted a 4x4, though I don't really need it (I live 20km from Paris, thus quite fair climate, on no mountain around). I just wanted to feel safer when I go skiing. But I can't say a FWD wouldn't have been safe enough. Hundreds of Superb Mk3 drivers don't have 4x4 and don't complain. I don't tow. But I'm not sure a 4x4 is major argue for towing, since it's roughly 100kg of dead weight most of the time. The main argue for a 4x4 may be for hill starts. At least I guess... Actually, I think it also strongly depends on the size (and weight) of your caravan too. If it's a small one as you said, it may not be critical to have a FWD. Anyway, once you have the car, have no regret! Enjoy your drives.

^^^ What sort of ambient temp is that at? Prep a car for winter, with the rubbers prepared on the car. Idiots use Boiling water, warm water is fine, but then when it refreezes it can be down the doors, and in the rubber seals. The MINI Electric also has frameless doors and the window drops before the door opens. less than 5 minutes heating the MINI interior even at -9*oC.. As shown. If the car is frozen you turn on pre-heating with your phone via the App. (if you have a phone.)

It will not affect timing for the reasons you have stated. As vehicles have not had distributors for 30 + years now be very wary of any replacement rotor arms, distributor caps, coils and condensors, the latter were of questionable quality even back in the day. Fit manufacturers original second hand parts if you can find them, it doesn't take Einstein to manufacture a pattern part rotor arm but many are completely non functional.

It's unlikely that Skoda will ever market a Fabia-size hybrid of any sort. This recent "Autocar" article https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/2025-volkswagen-id-2-will-be-even-better-concept said that VW planned to have an inexpensive Polo-size EV (called the ID2all) on sale in 2026, and I'd expect Skoda to subsequently market a version of that.

You don't need new cap, just the seal that goes around it - original PN is 047103487

If you want 200 horse you're gonna need a new turbo, intercooler, hard pipe kit, and a new clutch, slave and flywheel, the remap is the cheapest bit by miles! You're not thinking straight, think like your bank manager, not a wannabe racing driver! For 165 horse it's £300, for the rest it's more like three grand and that's assuming you can do most of the work yourself!

Thanks for that, depressing isn't it! I had my update 3 weeks ago, I get the odd warning that clears itself after a minute or 2. Not had the full Christmas tree effect yet

I must video the issue when it happens again. At least there would be some evidence of something not being right. Shouldn’t be happening to a brand new car.

This is exactly my thinking - the tip of the rotor arm is several times wider than the contact in the distributor cap so it should not directly impact timing seeing that the spark is jumping anyway. But I have ordered a timing light and will see if the failing arm has any impact on timing - I will report back here my findings.

Are they?? But CO2 is a good gas as well and essential for lots of things in the plant and also aquatic life and the more we chop down forests, burn them and give up the land to becoming large slabs of concrete and tarmac etc, the worse we will be as a result of an increase in CO2 as more plants which thrive on it and give us back oxygen, will be lost.

In the intervening years the clockspring broke twice, at different locations. I managed to repair the stricken ribbon cable but the thing is at its end now so Aliexpress to the rescue in the form of 10 m of ribbon cable:

40° is double the slope of the steepest road in the UK.

To be completely honest - I am not too sure. I assumed when a full service is done, all sort of regular things gets checked up. Should I take it to a garage and ask for an actual full health check? Sorry, I honestly have little knowledge in the maintenance field, never had a car of my own for very long. As to @J.R., I only dream that he was raised by his parent (whom I have only utmost respect for) to be a bit less ridiculing person and don't mock people just because of something he finds hard to believe.

Given the type of driving you describe I would have made the same choice as you, especially as it has come from a Skoda dealer - extra peace of mind should anything need looking at (under warranty etc), plus it's the lower mileage and the newer of the two. Good choice.

A pre EU5 diesel engined car would immediately half the OP's fuel consumption on short runs, here diesel is cheaper than petrol so an additional saving, not sure if that applies in the UK. Unlike a petrol engine which will be running an enriched mixture (think old school choke) until it has reached operating temperature there is no enrichment on a diesel after the compression ignition cycle is sustained without preheating, so a matter of seconds. My car is doing 44-48mpg at the one mile mark, most of my journeys are short ones to town (4km) and stop start around town, it returns 50mpg overall on those trips, the 4km out 4km return trip to my favored routier restaurant return 57mpg. And that is with a 4wd Yeti with the frontal area and drag coefficient of a barn door. Sadly the monetary advantages of diesel power on short journeys has been wiped out post EU4 with the particulate filters.

Now wondering if anyone has a set of the new Kef R11 Meta’s and can compare them through experience to the Q11 meta or even the older non meta R11. subwoofer has reignited my passion for sound, and I’m going to update my front main 3 before I add a new AVR and ceiling speakers. Just looking some hands on views from people not paid to say good things about them. Other choices in the same range would be much appreciated as well.

Great thanks for checking

@enoktakenokta - u should never have to go into the engineering menu to update the maps. "Software Update" can either refer too maps or firmware. As @Gabbo suggested - sounds like the file structure on ur USB might b the likely suspect.

If you wait until the gearbox has stopped turning after disengaging the clutch and you still get a grinding noise, the clutch is dragging and you probably have a clutch or flywheel issue. (reverse has no syncro) You will probably find if you select another gear first before quickly putting it into reverse you won't get the noise. I had this exact issue on a Golf and it was the DMF failing

Like the sound of that as Renaults are particularly light. TESLAs pretty light too. German cars, including SEAT and Skoda are heavy like VAG, Mercedes and BMWs.

Sorry I completely forgot where I live. Of course you are right. Thank you for correcting me.

Possibly, but you'd need to know where to link it to, and you'd need to know that your BCM version supported this... It can probably all be found out, but the Up! forum is way better on technical details....

panic over the bolts are offset so you can align them

I'm assuming it's the facelift version - therefore I have an idea about your problem, but no solution... As most of you know, Octavia 4 has a few other siblings - the Golf 8, the Formentor and the latest Leon; as such, they share lots of stuff... mechanically, electronics and as a consequence - problems! A few months ago I was discussing with my Cupra dealership as they were just receiving the first transport of facelift Formentors. He was telling me that when they washed the cars after the trip from Spain to Bucharest, about half of the 10 cars they received didn't start... They immediately scanned for errors - nothing stored!!! However, after closing the cars and waiting for a couple of minutes they start without any issue... 😇 On the other hand, over the past several months, on the Formentor online group we use here in RO to share useful information/solutions/tips, quite a few of those with the facelift model mentioned that their cars didn't start on few occasions, either after washing the car, or after rain overnight, even after heavy-fog... high-humidity being the common denominator. In ALL cases the car started without problem after some waiting time with the car locked. Since the problem you described in your first post reminded me of all the situations that I mentioned above, am I wrong to assume that on those mornings when you encountered the problem the outside humidity was high? Apparently there's no formal solution from VAG, no TPI... but it's already quite well known unfortunately. I even found online the same problem (and "solution") mentioned for the new Tiguan; they were mentioning some communication issues caused by the Gateway, but until there's an official answer from VAG - it's all just assumptions.

It was Autodoc. We have trouble getting parts in Ireland at reasonable cost. I also got my waterpump from them delivered to France after I paid the main dealer there €100's more as I was desperate. In a few thousand miles I will be replacing that again so it is here handy! Yes it was the after SCR unit. No coding required.

That's not right for any engine Octavia Mk3 - the only time I've ever had fuel economy that poor was winter city driving in my previous Audi RS4 which had a 4.2L V8 making 450PS 🤯

not all cars live in lovely heated garages 😞 or even in a garage (because too big)

Went to Tatton Park VWNW on Sunday and came second in Skoda Seat not bad for a high miler