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@Kt1966 (1) should read more like "The cup holder doesn't fit my cup".

You forgot the next ice age which every day we get one day closer to. I think it is forecast for the 12th June 2029. I'll get me coat 🫢

You know coolant is roughly 50% water, right?

When you get home install Skoda Connect app on your phone or visit https://www.skoda-connect.com/ on your tablet,PC,Mac and set up an account and you may be able to buy High Beam Assist amongst other things in the shop.

I do the folowing before I attempt anything under the car especially suspension etc. I have been using RP90 penetrating oil from toolatation and AC90 which is the euqivalent of wd40. For stubborn rusty bolts I spray with AC90 and leave for about 1/2 hour then use RP90 and let it soak in for 12-24hrs then repeat process over a day or two. A bit of heat and a spray of RP90 when still hot works very well especially when trying to replace flexi brake hoses with a seized union. I'm a great believer of take it slow and its less likely to break. All my cars are old so no stranger to 1/3 turn to loosen 1/4 turn back then more AC90 and repeat till it comes out. Alasdair

See my earlier post - certainly at St Ives beach there is little/no evidence of sea level rising in over 150 years.

Turns out it's my lucky day, the car has the correct plating despite never having had tow prep. Dealer also has a local contact they use to fit detachable bars, with specific electrics, for them so it can be done before I collect it, slightly cheaper than quotes I've had too.

Wind turbines and Wind farms all around me here just not the required battery storage to make use of the electricity that can be generated. Calm here in the harbour and the turbines are turning just up the hill. @wyx087 I would not use a 7 or 11 AC to save money if going someplace and a working 50 kW is available. But I need 100% later not now. And I got a small battery car so that if need must then plenty AC chargers about and usually ok just for an hour or 3 to have a full battery. But even 42 pence a kWh is too expensive. But this 22 kWh has cost nothing and the refunds are coming in the false starts. The chargers that might have issues are the ones that sometimes end up giving free charges. This has been a very cheap trip so far. 550 miles from the £2.50 charge at home and another that cost £11.45. but tomorrow I will need another charge before home at about £9.00. 50 kW charger.

... and hydro and tidal to mitigate the need for so much battery storage for the effects of e.g. winter anticyclonic calms.

Still waiting for the original garage to get back to me with regards to if this is something they will sort out for me. The workshop manual states to replace/renew the bolt, but as you said whether this is actually required or not is a different question. For the price of a £4 bolt I would rather just get it replaced for piece of mind.

Any time suspension components are replaced, a wheel alignment should be done (or the alignment should be checked at a minimum). If changes are made to the rear wheel alignment then an ADAS calibration is necessary. Wheel alignments have tolerances, realistically they're never going to be perfect/consistent

Mit Silikat refers to silicate not hygroscopic silica, they're different compounds.

Just to close this topic, I ended up going to SatNav Systems. They were great. Were able to replace just the screen and some attendant motherboard type thing which obviously worked out at a fraction of the cost of replacing the whole system.

A blowjob can fix many things

Playing devils advocate... Why does it require immediate and sustained action... to mitigate its impacts? The converse (again playing devils advocate) is that the world could simply adapt to the new climate. Please note that I am asking not because I disagree with you but to extract from you your thoughts as to why we have to act and not simply let the word adapt as it has done over millions and billions of years?. The world could simply be left to move on and change in whatever way that might be - be that rising sea levels, extinction of species and even humankind - it'll happen eventually anyway on a stellar basis?

There is a possibility that the even the valves are fine on this engine, the way the top end is set up it may have just smashed the rockers to bits when the valves have hit the piston. The trouble with looking in the top end though is that you have to take all the injectors out so its not a 5 minute job but as this happened at tickover you have a good chance of saving it if you really wanted to. It is still a bit of an unknown though and its still a 180K engine with a lot of auxiliaries that are just waiting to die and cost you money, plus a lot of things will break and need replacing once you start tearing into it.

Even if the whole Thwaites glacier goes over the next couple of centuries it would only equate to a 65cm sea level rise...

Looks pretty clean compared to my Rapid 😆

She's still going, hai! Edging ever so close to 97k, and hoping to have it well over 100k by summer. Quality. Got her back from paint a couple of weeks ago, looking miles better now. A good wash is in order ASAP.

In for a penny…I’ll let you know how it goes with both. Ordered.

@travs - correct, I put the lower insert only. Doing both upper and lower will definitely increase NVH, which I did not want.

I'd never have anything other than a VAG brand. I've had VAGs for 40 years. Always bought 2nd hand and always used a VW independent for repairs if i cant DIY it. Parts are cheap, reliable and plentiful. Well engineered and mostly well thought out. Current Octavia is now 20+ years old. A smooth and economical drive. Won't be changing anytime soon. There's genuine bad luck and then there's bad luck brought on yourself.

Yes West Country and Western England, Wales and West Scotland rising and east coast falling in to the North Sea. At some point Thames Barrier will not be enough. With the Thwaites Doomsday glacier now breaking up sea level will rise quicker than previously thought.

Thank you all for the feedback, I don't have a code reader and not willing to buy one to be honest, I believe if I buy the exact same battery on specification it should ok! famous last words 🙂 I have spoken to my local garage who have looked after my vehicles and they said they would code it free of charge if I brought the vehicle round, so I think that's my way forward! I would not have believed changing a battery would cause such confusion, bring back the days you only worried if the radio would need a code!! I have spoken to a mechanic too and they said like for like it does not require any coding. So thank you all again for your support it's appreciated 🙂 Regards Bryan

Hi again. I have dug out my notes from 2018. It has reminded me that the heating element differs between leather and non-leather seats. I will attempt to post the document, it's in MS Word format. Yeti heated seat replacement.docx

People are on a hurry to get to ferries and sadly the chargers between Glasgow and Girvan are not reliable and are just single rapids near the route, then Ballantrae that is next is unreliable. The SWARCO employee asked me if it was working and he if on his way to Belfast . Coming off a ferry or just heading north on A77 just the same crap. This route should be a Scottish Government priority but is not. Just the same as the terrible road with a terrible history for serious accidents is not. That was even the same when getting EU funding and all that was done was a couple of locations with crawler lanes and lovely road side walls. Landscaping. A favourite with public money..

My choice would easily be the independent manufacturer supplier I mentioned before one chap runs the business and he's a character so doesn't work in the same way as other manufacturers, his tyres are very highly thought of by those that know old cars. UK prices might be a surprise to those not living here, don't worry about the high speed rating he would have introduced that because that was required in that size by customers and he has now run out of the ones he made at lower speed rating, at the same price, and tyres are already at excellent value. These are proper road tyres that can also be used in motorsports, high performance and rugged. The chap runs the company so he can sort things out for individual customers. Blockley Tyres - https://www.blockleytyre.com/product/175-70vr13 Below is the 2024 list for production tyres approved for UK motorsport, I don't know what is available in your country or which sizes are available in each model tyres, don't dismiss a make just because it is not a popular brand or not well known to you. - Motorsport-UK-Yearbook-2024.pdf Good luck.

Actually this is the first morning that there has not been a car sitting having been on the charger all night and a teacher then plugging into the other side and leaving the car from early until afternoon. 47 pence a kWh. There was the DC working for getting a charge and there is 1 hour max time on it now but then a higher tariff to use. Bad enough now at 62 pence a kWh but going to 70 pence in July.

All good. The one on their website isn't ours but the one on the official Skoda website is. I sent them the reservation confirmation email to proff I reserved it first and the manager agreed its fair so the car is ours 🎉

All of my 2.0TDi Skodas had 027 batteries fitted from the factory, I chose to pay the small premium for the 096 but would be happy with an 027 on a 1.4l TDi engine.

Not a good start to the day, good job you're not in a hurry to get To work or something.

027 will be fine.

does knocking disappear with loaded trunk? i solved that case, by replace brand new Bilstein(FEBI) 12-281459 rear top mount with one year used OEM 5Q0 513 353 E -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160 another story about solve rear knocking Koni, not mine, i just saved the link -> https://www.drive2.com/l/612649804215901503/

So the whole reason why Skoda / VAG put these silicon bags into the coolant tank was to try and make the Coolant - "Coolant for Life" - if I remember rightly - sometime between 2015 and 2017. The term "coolant for life" got dropped very quickly, but the silicon bag was there to remove excessive moisture in the coolant. In the meantime, VAG had gone from G12+ to G13 - which was meant to compliment the minimal servicing requirements. G13 got pulled (I think) due to environmental concerns and it got replaced by the current mix we all use today called G12evo. Skoda will still recommend a coolant replacement every 5 years though, so the whole silicon bag debacle is one of those issues where VAG chalked it up to experience. I know of Skoda dealers who's techs remove the silicon bag if they see it....other's leave it. Its a mess. In short though, I recommend removal of the silicon bag due to the fact that the bag splits. In answer to this question from automass, if your coolant is over 5 years old, a coolant flush is not going to hurt. The coolant can weaken, if you had silicon bag in your header tank (and it split and you didn't get a flush done at the time) then a coolant flush followed by fresh G12evo will definately help.

I'd sooner have the higher capacity battery, particularly in a diesel "just in case..."

MY2015 2.0 TDI CUNA Expansion tank has both stamps, G13 & mit silikat.

Pretty new to Skoda and cars in general, so not quite sure what you mean by 'VAG vehicles'. So if my experience here isn't a help I do apologize. Ive been wanting to mount an OEM armrest in my same year Fabia, so me and my ADHD brain started disassembling the centre console one day to figure out how to mount it. Its juts 4 bolts, likely hex keys like most things with the car. all you need to do to get to them is with the handbrake up (on) undo the bolt under the rear cupholder and lift the centre console up from the rear. you may have to remove some panels around the armrest base to be able to lift the centre console. Once you have lifted the rear of the console a tiny bit you'll be able to see the bolts. if the problem is with the armrest itself, and not where it mounts to the car I have to apologize again, as I haven't been able to learn more. Also If anyone knows where I can get an OEM, or OEMatching armrest it greatly appreciate tips.

Hi All, Just to confirm that I too received an email - practically same as jeallen01 - which is below - ie change cambelt at 15 years or 180,000 miles - which ever is sooner. So, bish79 - I don't know how many miles you do in a year - but you maybe ok for a another few years yet - shame your garage is saying 140,000 when Skoda are officially saying 180,000. That's a big differece of 40k miles - which for the average person is approx. 4 years. Hope this helps. jakk.

I bet the bolt didn't come in the kit they bought, (it wasn't in the genuine VW kit I bought for the 9n Polo) and they interpreted that to mean it was OK for it to be re-used. Hard to say for certain that it'll be fine; if it was going to break it would probably have done so during tightening. Bigger risk is that it wasn't done up tight enough, and might subsequently loosen, but it doesn't sound like you'll get an honest answer, if any, to what spec and tooling was used to tighten it. If it's something that's going to cause you ongoing anxiety, I'd suggest getting another garage to quote for replacing it.

First time I have used the garage to be honest. I got a few quotes from different garages and these came out on the slightly higher side. I would like to use them again, however I asked them what I believe to be an appropriate enough question if they could confirm if the crank pulley bolt was replaced but didn't get an answer from email. I then tried to call but noone responded, managed to get through to someone in the end who advised they would ask the technician and get back to me but didn't hear anything else. I then sent another email just saying if the bolt wasn't replaced is it something they would do for me (I would even pay the cost) but again haven't had a response. I'm not trying to say they did the job wrong, just if they responded saying something like "it's not something we have replaced before and haven't had any issues" then that's fine with me. I don't have any experience with these engines but I do worry and rely on the vehicle to be able to see my son, so I would rather try and make sure everything is right as such.

Convincing the Mrs that it might work for the key fobs wasn't the easiest thing I have to say,🤣😎

Hi The backrest and the seat pads have separate heating elements. The seat pad is much more vulnerable to failure than the backrest, especially the part under the raised side "bolster" which gets flexed every time you get in and out of the car. The heating wire is a bit unusual in that it comprises about seven individually insulated strands twisted together. Each time one of these strands breaks due to continual flexing, the heating power drops, and eventually when the last strand breaks there is no heat at all. The specialised nature of the wire makes it very difficult to repair by soldering or putting in a bridging section, I guess with enough patience it could be done if you can strip off the enamel insulation from all the strands. I have replaced my driver's seat heater in the past, the element is not too expensive and fits in place with double sided sticky tape, but it's a bit of a fiddly job to remove and refit the cover (leather in my case). I found a guide on the internet which covered all the steps.

Maintain the spare at a high pressure when stored maybe 60 psi, and if you have to fit the spare then you can let some air out. Easy to have a tyre pressure gauge in the car even if you have no means of inflating a tyre.

The newest arrival, and now the quickest outgoing...

If it didn't feel right then I'd walk away, plenty more used motors to choose from. As you say, had the egr valve fairly recently done, juddery from a standing start. I have the same type of dsg box with the 1.5tsi engine fitted to my car, now covered 70k, always smooth on take off.

It's not coding as such. You need to use the the likes of VCDS, OBDII or Carly to let the car know a new battery ahs been installed. The car then knows this and adjusts the charging to suit. There are videos on YouTube about it. If you search about it you'll find articles / people saying you don't have to do it. Others saying you do and some saying if you don't do it it might shorten the live of the new battery. If you have VCDS, OBDII or Carly it is easy enough to do. You just put in the capacity of the new battery, the type of battery and it asks for the serial number. For the serial number you can put anything as long as it is different to the existing battery.

A factory fitted tow bar might be more expensive (not twice the price) - but at least it is properly coded, doesn’t have issues with the reversing sensors, is covered under the car’s warranty, etc, etc. To some, the extra cost is worth it for the peace of mind and simplicity.

Probably the plan is to drop all the coolant out, apply a vacuum then let that draw/drag the new coolant into the system, I've bought and used a Draper kit on my other car, a 2011 Audi S4, the other thing that I made up, was a reservoir fluid height extender which I fabricated by buying a cheapish replacement pressure cap, drilled out the pressure relief valve and bonded a length of poly water piping onto that re-purposed pressure cap. I've also resorted to removing the small "fluid return pipe" and applied a vacuum in a bid to prove to myself that the, in the case of that S4, that the charger heat exchangers had been fully flooded with new coolant. Edit:- or maybe just as important, I felt the need to be sure that the electric pump serving that sub-circuit, was filled with coolant - I'll be doing the same thing when I replace the G13 with G12evo in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, for the same reason.

Taken from my kitchen window this morning - there are nicer things out there than Skoda Superbs!

Happy New year everyone!