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It sounds as if your lubricating oil level sensor may be a little oversensitive - suggest doing regular checks using the stick for the future.

Something else to check are the boot struts, the traditional thin type are manual boot open/close, the thicker diameter type are for the powered boot open/close.

I've been to Locomotion museum up in Shildon this week and took lots of pics. I like these 2 I took outside and edited. Both taken with my OM10 mk3 with kit lens. Colour selected with OM Workshop, then finished in Gimp. What do you think? I can post the originals if you wish.

I would leave that. Maybe keep some paper or cardboard under there (fixed to undertray somehow) to absorb the drips, so they don't go onto the road, or your driveway/garage. It could be worth checking the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is working correctly. This helps eliminate, or at least reduce any gas pressure in the crankcase/sump/head which makes leaks less probable. I don't know exactly how this system operates on your engine, so I can't suggest a method for checking it, but sometimes just loosening the oil filler cap while engine is idling, and observing whether it tends to be blown upward or sucked back down can give a useful indication.

Just checked febi parts finder and there are two One sided for non aircon but double sided for aircon. (You learn something everyday) Part number for double sided is FEBI 34459 Febi list skoda part numbers 06A 260 849 C ,06A 260 849 B 1195mm long Alasdair

Here's a screenshot from the video...

@Woody37 since you know the Oil Level checked cold, you can check it as per owners manuals. Only 1.2 44 kW VW Engines are checked cold. they have a 2.8 litre capacity. So next time the oil is at normal operating temperature so about 90*oC indicated check once stopped on the flat and after 4 or 5 minutes. (Skoda / VW say a few minutes.) Where is the oil now showing?

Found a useful list of Gridserve charger installs & upgrades last year (link below) Here is the list for the last quarter Moto Stafford North (M6) – 6 High Power charging bays Moto Wetherby (A1(M)) – 12 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Rugby (M6) – 24 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Lancaster North (M6) – 6 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Burton-in-Kendal (M6) – 6 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Roadchef Rownhams West (M27) – 6 High Power charging bays Moto Donington Park (M1) – 4 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Lancaster South (M6) – 6 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Cherwell Valley (M40) – 6 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Blyth (A1(M)) – 8 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Exeter (M5) – 12 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Reading West (M4) – 6 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Reading East (M4) – 6 new High Power charging bays added to existing site Moto Knutsford South (M6) – 12 High Power charging bays https://www.gridserve.com/new-electric-vehicle-charging-sites-open-on-the-gridserve-electric-highway/

You could do with cleaning the water drain hole out aswell.

In the UK all Felicia and Favorit (and presumably older models) parts have been omitted from the dealer (ETKA?) parts system, so you have to specify that you are looking for a part for an older skoda, otherwise when asking you simply get told no part exists. Always helps to have correct part number first before contacting them.

Surprised me too @J.R., but make yourself a cup of tea and then try googling "oil leaking from flywheel bolts". Quite a bit of reading matter pops up.

Sounds pretty unreasonable if it was a stock vehicle. Looks like a careful recheck of the sales contract needed. Could also come under the category of unfair contract conditions.

If your car had towbar prep at the factory, it should have (1) different battery / alternator, (2) pre-wiring and (3) towbar ready valance. However, mine has towbar prep but did NOT have the correct valance - dealer was happy to source one for me (at a price) but in the end, I went with a 3rd party who cut the valance (with my permission). Unless you are lying down behind the car, you can't see the cutout.

I wrote this a couple of years ago (Jan 2023). "Regens are made by extra diesel being injected into the engine. If these regens don't burn off this diesel then it runs down the bores into the engine thus diluting and raising the oil level. Not good. If this has happened you will also need an oil change. If a regen is occurring and you turn off the engine before it has finished the engine will be hot and often the cooling fan will remain running. After "the fix" my 2010 diesel Yeti did this regularly. I would then immediately restart and go for a decent 60/70 mph drive alternating between 3rd or 4th gear, not top gear, in order to burn off this extra diesel and complete the regeneration. Modern diesels are not designed for too many regular short journeys. This was the reason that when my driving pattern changed I got rid of my Yeti and bought a petrol Karoq. I am currently only doing around 5000 miles a year." Tom

Thanks for all your replies so far. Unfortunately it was a private sale so caveat emptor applies. I’m not 100% convinced the mods and repairs are definitely the source of the issues. The car behaved absolutely fine for the first month or so in my ownership. Dealer has agreed to take another look on Tuesday next week so I shall update the post then. Should that fail, I’ll look for a good independent for a second opinion. If it turns out I’ve been stung, I’ll try to be philosophical about it. In nearly 30 years of motoring I’ve not yet been sold a lemon. First time for everything I guess.

Schoolboy and pro error not checking , rechecking and cross referencing the basics and the work you have done on the car any items nearby or related to your work - i.e. unintentionally buggering something else up with your nearby or related to your work, or not doing something right or leaving something off, etc., we've all done it. With the x431 can you go into and look at the data on the steering angle sensor and end stops, live data perhaps see if anything is missing or some sort of coding required directly. Your Report list is beyond my very limited understanding but other than a few odd codes they all seem related and communication, you might trace back to a common point with a wiring diagram. You might be better looking at and/or asking on the Diagnostics & VCDS forums and see if the coding experts or those scan tool and/or OBDEleven knowledge are there to see your post or thread there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ What's the missing licence number about, are software version V28.50 and app version V1.00.0004 both fully up to date? Is the X431 a genuine or a clone do you know? General data codes, one for VW go for ever. - https://www.klavkarr.com/data-trouble-code-obd2.php

Some Karoqs are being advertised on Auto trader as Edition models but are clearly not.

I am certain that virtual pedal boot has never been standard spec on pre edition SEL's - I believe that either that advert is inaccurate or the virtual pedal boot was added as an option

My advice extends to whenever you're buying a secondhand car & in particular an "insurance write off" to get it professionally examined by an engineer from the AA or RAC and get a full written report from them before you even consider the vehicle. I hope you can get this resolved & hope you can get all of the problems resolved to your satisfaction, but you may well have got your fingers burnt.

I know exactly what the problem is. Its easy to run the belt the wrong way around the tensioner and/or idler pulleys, the falling off is a big clue that the tensioner has run out of travel. A better description would be following the wrong path. I did it myself as the incorrect routing looks the most obvious, I didn't have the benefit of a diagram and it took a lot of head scratching, the correct routing looked so so wrong but the belt tensioner sat in the correct mid position and the belt covered a greater circumferential area on the driven pulleys.

There is definetly not so much leake that will go to the road and to garage That leake must not be new. I have car not so long, but i have do 3000 km. And there is no oil on floor in my garage. I think in this time 3000 km if leake willbe huge i will have some oil on floor at the garage. I guess. 2.0 Tdi 147kw DTU

Would be good to know how.

I would try polishing it out ,give the whole bonnet a polish or better still buy a good cutting compound ,or pop into a local body shop the guys there are usaully good with a polisher .

Hi all, I have an 07 vrs and fitted the powerfold mirrors from a newer fl mk2. The job is as simple as it gets. Remove the door card and sail panel trim. Access the 3 bolts to remove the mirrors and unplug the electrical plug, then refit the powerfold mirrors. Then remove the door module/window motor. Replace with the new door module/motor. Then plug all the connectors into the module including the extended one from the new mirrors. At this point double check the window mechanism works correctly as it will reverse the opening/closing if on the wrong side (a mistake i made). Also check the operation of the mirrors folding smoothly. Then reassemble the door. While I was at it I fitted dynamic indicators and carbon mirror caps. Once done sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labours. You will also aquire puddle lights which I also replaced with led units. I'll try and get part numbers for everything required. And share on this post.

Its grooved on both sides. As said havent come across one on skoda but think the beetle 1.9 has double sided from memory on my daughters old one. Reckon its the wrong belt but may be wrong.

Pretty sure my octavia mk2 1.9tdi is one sided as is my 1.6tdi 12 plate. I always use Gates. Maybe the MK1 is different or perhaps you have the wrong belt. Alasdair Dont suppose there is a part number or manufacturer on the new belt. If its slightly too long it maay not be tensioning properly.

Not a chance. I have just retired and I don't do software any more. 🙂

Reckon Chills could be Chillout 😉 the mib guru. The other one is whether the RoW FeC isn't installed correctly or that possible firmware bug about updates... but given it took EU update. Possibly not that then,

Reckon its inside out and maybe wrong fitting. What engine do you have in the car Alasdair

All the maps for the whole world were posted previously in this thread and people are using them.

Hi guys will get a clear image now

Update on the original post: Having checked the oil level on a perfectly flat surface, engine cold, it is at but not over the upper marker on the dipstick. Next drive the warning light and message had gone. I spoke to the dealer and a technician said it was ok to drive, oil change due in 2,700 miles. Next, I took the car out for an 80 mile mid-evening sports mode Italian tune-up Any more warnings I will get the oil change sooner. In truth the car will be changed for a petrol hybrid in a couple of years, perhaps another Karoq if they finally launch one, if not a Sportage or Tucson, so ultimate longevity of this diesel engine is not my greatest concern. The only reason I bought a diesel again was because it was the only sensible 4x4 option, needed because of a hilly home location and elderly dependents who need us whatever the weather.

I noticed that too but forgot about it, you posted. I noticed it because last year my wife had a hire car for a few weeks, it was about a year old, obviously it got cleaned frequently but the cleaners never opened the fuel flap as there was lots of debris there and blocking the hole. I cleared the hole and drain pipe by putting a stiff piece of wire up from the bottom of the drain tube under the car up, that way the muck is pushed up and out of the hole on the shortest path and not compacting it. I made sure the end of wire wasn't sharp so that it wouldn't put a hole in what looked like black rubber drain hose hanging under the car. With the hole open I poured hot water down the drain tube using a small funnel to direct it. I put hot water down until I saw it was at full flow coming out of the bottom. IIRC on cleaning the outside of the hose I found it was actually clear plastic tube.

I have same problem. Have ordered s/h off fleabay, will let you know if it works.

Sounds fine to me.....am I missing something here.

If it is not leaking from somewhere higher up (above gearbox) and running down to there, then it seems likely that you would have to remove the gearbox to find the source of the oil. May be better to just keep cleaning it and making sure you are not losing much oil by checking the level regularly. If it is leaking enough to make a mess on your driveway, then it would be kind to other road users if you fix it before it gets much worse. It would be helpful if @Blue8793841 could maybe show us the technical service bulletin he mentions. Or at least tell us which brand, model and engine(s) it applied to.

No, mine is not a Sportline. It's basically a 220 L&K like. It came with the boring black no frills lower diffusor - like the pic below. Hence why I changed it straightaway for a Sportline version. The whole rear black needs to be replaced. It separates (unclips) from the bumper itself, which 4 torx screws at the bottom. The rear parking sensors r located on the black diffuser bit - so these need to be moved. Likewise if u have the virtual pedal. Pic of the rear Sportline diffuser seperated.

hello, Welcome to the forum.🥳

Thanks Varadero, I'm definitely investing in the power pack solution. -cheers

The difference is only in the key format being used, later models used HAA type keys, earlier models a more traditional type key. I think your best bet is to source one with a key from a breaker / donor vehicle.

Yep. Was thinking of doing an off the shelf one but you may have changed my mind now. Thanks.

The tsb is not a figment of my imagination

Minimum I could use is 17 inch rims, as the car's a 280, fitted with 215/55/17 Goodyear Ultragrip, which saw us last year, past the Arctic Circle and up to Narvik without any issues whatsoever. I took chains as well, but never had the need to use them, did a trial fit in the UK and all was good. I did bottle it on a particular steep hill near Lillehammer, which was near the end of the trip so didn't want to tempt fate. Rims Audi A4 7J ET46 (8K0071497) Chains Weissenfels 9mm M30 Clack and Go

Sounds most likely cause. Employ your nose as well, if it were not engine oil but transmission oil then it has an aroma all of it's own.

The transponder needed to turn on the "ignition" is passive so will work even with no battery in the key, the battery in the key is only needed for remote locking/unlocking.

I know this is a bit of a dormant thread but I recently had the same question and found the answer in the Bru Travel Mug which I saw recommended here. It fits in the cupholder and holds a good amount of liquid. Would recommend and thought it might help others.

Superb 2.0TSI 282PS

Hello all! Thought I’d pop back in and give you an update… Yes I’ve not been in here in years, had a hell of a job trying to get back into Briskoda previously and gave up. But was searching for something else on my old iPad which seems to have remembered an old log in’s details so I can finally access Briskoda again… After the engine fire plans were put in place to upgrade the Yeti. No point spending more money to have it back the same. A fully built more modern alloy block 2.5tsi was done that will take 800+bhp and a DSG box as it’s probably going to need to go flappy paddles at the power level. The shell was stripped and rather than a roll hoop behind the front seats, a full motorsport compliant roll cage was welded in. This is where we are now, but nothing has happened in the last few years. ive been fortune enough to have the money to go and do other stuff. In 2021 I raced a Nissan GT3 in Britcar. In 2022, 23 and 24 I’ve been racing a few things including period 90s Super Touring Cars. It’s a shame but the Yeti has fallen out of favour and sat there. im now in a situation where it needs maybe 20k spending on it to finish it. And quite simply I can’t justify that on a car that isn’t as good as the race cars, complete overkill on the road and unlikely to be used other than a couple of track days per year. So I suspect this is the end for the project. As I said it’s a shame, but I’ve been very fortunate to have a McLaren 765LT etc… over the last few years and dumping a ton of money into a 15 year old modified road car that will never be as good is just hard to justify, I have looked at selling it complete with the brand new forged engine but I doubt there would be any takers at the 20k it would break to with the motorsport dash etc…. so it seems this journey is destined to end with a sell off of the parts and the shell being squashed. And yes, in 2018 I went off, did the furry thing and got it mostly out of my system. Nice to have a bit of variety in life!

can anyone upload again?

A Christmas gift I will cherish 😀📸👍