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!!!UPDATE!!! PROBLEM SOLVED!!! Hello. Sorry for being away for so long, but I had a lot of work to do, plus personal matters, but I won't go into detail about that. The point is that the problem is solved. One weekend I tried to replace the G62 water temperature sensor. It was quite tricky. You couldn't see anything, since this sensor is behind the engine, so I did it by feel. That was the problem. I don't know exactly how the old one broke, but replacing solved it. So the engine was heating up all the time, but it didn't sense it. If this had been the first thing I replaced, I would have saved 100 euros for sure. 😅 Thank you all for your help! I finally managed to solve it because of you. 😊

Back from a ski trip in our French Alps, I made a quick clean (Karcher only at the local car wash) to my Estate this morning, before removing the roof box. I took this pic, 'cause I find this black & white combo has a bit of star wars Storm troopers… 😁 Still 1200-ish km to drive before the 135000km overhaul. Plan is to : - Change engine oil + filter - Change fuel filter (every 45000km instead of 90000 as recommended) - Change Haldex oil and clean gauge (every 45000km too, since easier than the 3 years to remind for me. Also allows an earlier replacement due to my annual mileage). - Swap winter / summer wheels. Then it will need a deep inside and outside cleaning to be ready for sale...

How about a nicer background?

It has better specifications, performs much better in lane keeping, recognizes the roadside and linear objects, supports capacity steering wheel(you need to keep your hands on the wheel and there will be no notification during ACC) The replacement is simple, but not everyone can activate the SWaP codes, but possible remotely

If you have Skoda warrantee still in place I think you can call out their mobile service. This is not an uncommon fault on VAG cars. Start - Stop is turned off automatically when this sort of fault occurs. Things you could try: Look under the bonnet to see if something has come loose or is chewed, rodent damage is often a culprit. Disconnect the car battery for 20 mins or so, (you can leave it on charge) and then re-connect. That sometimes clears the codes. Do not connect a code reader on a car under warrantee unless you know exactly what you are doing.

Resolved Removed the RH boot carpet and found the sound insulation material which is bonded to the back of the carpet had come loose and was blocking the vent. Removed that section and its now back to normal!

Flew over this morning - looked for a moment like it was taking our neighbours chimney pot with it!

Decided I didn’t like the fact that the puddle light didn’t fit right, so I took them out and refitted the originals along with Osram 501 LEDs. This time I did it properly so ran an output test with VCDS on the door modules to check both sides worked. The side that didn’t had a dirty connection, but contact cleaner has sorted that out. I’ve returned the Chinese Amazon units for a refund and the not-very-good numberplate holders. And finally. When your screenwash matches your paint… Costs this post Osram LED £7.92 Total costs so far £779.64

Honestly Briskodians... Can we give it a rest with these petty arguments and reports. Play nice or I'll have no choice but to lock the topic.

3Q0 -> 2Q0 camera retrofit with all SWaPs and TravelAssist with KLR now work As a bonus, I installed a frameless mirror

Unlucky...

End of Feb' update A few jobs ticked off that I wanted to get complete. I bought some power folding mirrors by searching for "Octavia breaking" on Facebook Marketplace and came across a guy from (I think) the Seat Skoda Breakers in Oldham. For £250 I got a pair of mirrors. 2 modules and a switch. Of course it didn't occur to me that there would be a difference between model years when it came to electrical connectors, etc. So this plug, did not fit into the C and E modules I was sent (E module supercedes the C module and they were fitted up to 2017). Not a problem, I did a bit of digging around for some 'local' to here (because at this point, I've got the car in bits and a day off and have to go back to work the following day) and drive to Milton Keynes (20 miles) for a pair of "K" revision modules listed as *592 and *593 (the part numbers for the modules that power fold the mirrors). Except when I get there, the bloke had listed them incorrectly and they were in fact 392/3 modules and no different to what I had. I stopped in Northampton on the way home and picked up a "p" revision module to try it, plugged it in and it made the mirror fold out when the car was locked and in when it was open and running. I'd read another thread on here about that very thing and saw it could be fixed with a pin swap. I bought a P module off eBay for about £16 - so now I am another £36 into it. After a bit of digging around in ETKA (which I did. but got a totally different result first time), I saw that 2018 to late 2019 cars had F modules (is anybody else bored with this yet?), found a pair on eBay for about £46 next day delivery. Put them in and the passenger mirror folded the opposite way to how it should, due to me swapping the pins but the driver's side didn't... Anyway, I've bored myself now so the short version is I did a powerfold retrofit for £250 which has ended up costing me about £330 and I've now got 3 pairs of door control modules I don't need. Before I put the mirrors in, I fitted some LED puddle lights to replace the filament lamps. However they're not very good. I don't know if they are designed differently for the Golf, than the Octavia, but these don't have the notch in the plastic that holds them in to the mirror housing, so they don't quite sit right. Having fitted the mirrors, only one of the lights is working, so it's possible the polarity is the wrong way round. Also, I didn't check the coding was correct for both modules and thought the red safety/exit light had stopped working, but it wasn't coded. What I should have done was run an output test when it was plugged in for the first time. Lesson learned. I will get some 501 LEDs and put them into the original units I think. It shouldn't be too difficult to swap them out without removing them from the car. I also refitted the number plate today as it was hanging off. Bloody Halfords charging £3.49 for sticky pads - I had no choice, as I didn't have the requisite screws to fit my number plate holders (I now know they're M6) and had to drive down the road with the rear plate in the window. I also bought a caramel wheel to remove the sticky pads - what a waste of time that was. I've either done something wrong, or they are useless as all it does is spread the adhesive out. In the end I used the Auto Finesse ObliTARate (as good as Tardis, but it's a gel so it sticks) to get all of the goo off. I was also looking for a few bits to fill the gaps that Skoda leave for various accessories. I bought the proper under-seat umbrella from Vinted of all places, and a proper warning triangle and hi-vis vests from OEM VW Shop (along with some merch). The other thing I bought, and had wanted since I had a Mk2, was an under-the-parcel shelf net. OEM VW Shop was really cheap for this sort of thing. It feels like the despatch and shipping speed is about the same as glacial formation, but you can't knock the price - the parcel shelf net was about 8 quid. I'd seen them elsewhere for north of £30. The triangle was £4 and the hi-vis vests to go under the driver's seats were a couple of quid. Had I realised that the parcel shelf net involved drilling holes in the parcel shelf and generally being a d1ck to fit, I probably wouldn't have bothered, but anyway... I was taking a picture of the tailgate struts on my T6 to get the part numbers and took an accidental pic of the car Lastly, the AliExpress Porsche fuel cap is rubbish, so it's got to go.... Costs this post: Power folding mirrors £260 delivered P Modules £36 F Modules £46 Parcel shelf net £6.92 Hi-Vis vests x2 £4.38 Warning triangle £3.74 Under seat umbrella £19.44 Number plate sticky pads £3.49 Total costs so far: £771.72

So I've done it yet again, I've bought yet another car, This makes it my fourth road legal car (currently). Considering my Mk1, the whole reason I joined this website is back in bits, again, (and still not finished) it is a touch silly, but I said that about the justy, and another car I've not bothered to make a page for. So here we go, a friend had a mazda mx5 for ages, not really used, long story short I offered to buy it for not much IF he got it MOT'd, he did, so I bought it. 83000 odd miles, 10(!) Owners (including me), not quite a looker. It is a pretty well specced car from new. A 2001 but prefacelift, 1.8 with LSD and hardtop with heated rear screen, that alone is worth the majority of what I've bought it for. Has some wheels on it, rainsport 5s on the front and old Yokohama semi slicks on the rear. Coilovers on it, pretty decent mid range ones with damping adjustment. It's not a show car, but drives better than any car I own, simply cannot get over how tight it feels. I did have to go to Scotland to get it, but wasn't far from the ferry,so made a day out of it. This is my first RWD car, although I have driven and "enjoyed" some before. Drove really well and was very well setup, it is a touch low for the roads I drive but so far no problems. Big radiator in it, hot air intake etc but otherwise it's standard. Engine is sweet as could be, slight weeping from somewhere but perfect otherwise. Got on the ferry and all the way home no problem. Being first Sunday of the month, the local car show is on, so, not bothered to go out and get the justy I took this exactly as it was. Packed doesn't describe it, a good time as always, funny I never bother bringing my one working Skoda to it anymore. Some questionable stickers on the back glass, may leave them, probably won't. Took it back out to give it a good clean, wasn't washed in a long time, moss etc growing, spiders made the engine bay and cabin their home. I quite like the wheels, they aren't perfect but a bit of metal Polish should clean them well. Light is fairly sympathetic here, but it cleaned up pretty well in all, was parked outside so paint is oxidised. These are single stage AFAIK so it will come up decent. Probably the one time single stage is worth anything. Pulled apart the boot and cleaned it, gave the interior a mild cleaning to get the rough off it. Gave the headlamps a rough Polish with a rag, they are pretty poor, and the lenses are very dull. Pretty good pic of the oxidation here. Found a lot of documentation for it behind the passengers seat, Owners manual, service book etc, even a diary of sorts from a previous owner. AND the badges that are missing from it. Pic of the interior, originally had an OEM nardi airbag wheel, which I got with it. Currently has a Momo millennium on a quick release. Very 2000s, I love it. Even found some buttons on a bracket in the glovebox, they go on the steering wheel, look like something from an early fast and furious movie. Has an odd mismatch of gauges, oil temp sensor (coolant temp on the cluster is hot when at operating temp) and a genuine smiths volt meter from an MGB, also got a boost and oil temp gauge with it, useful for other projects. Has a short shifter also, very tight, very notchy but makes an odd rattle when driving which I need to fix. Nice pioneer head unit, speakers are surprisingly good and meant to be original ones to boot. It has had welding done a year or two ago so for MOT purposes it IS sound. Some cosmetic areas I'd like to fix are the rear arches, not catastrophic yet, but will be a cut and weld job If I wish to pour money into it.

Make & Model: Mk1 Octavia VRS hatchback Colour: Yellow Mileage: 93,726 Price: £2000 Description: 5 former keeps, owned by me since Jan '22, Just passed an MOT this morning 20/02/25 with one advisory for anti roll bar drop link ball joint play, 2 new Febi drop links purchased and will be fitted before the new owner collects. The car is generally pretty good for its age with lots of new parts and work being done in my ownership. See my build thread on the forum covering most things i've done, although the thread hasn't been updated for a while and quite a bit of work has been done since then, including replacement gearbox and new clutch/flywheel kit. If anything lets the car down its the body/paint, theres a small dent in the drivers door and some small rust scabs on the bottom of the front arches, one on the bonnet near the grill, one on the drivers sill and some on the top of the door under the trim, the usual flattening has happened to the sills from people jacking. The car isn't perfect but It has a lot going for it and could be made nicer still Condition: Fair for age/milage Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: I've never been great at keeping paperwork in a folder but If you look at the forum thread it shows you how well the car has been cared for https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/501520-bens-yellow-mk1-vrs/ Mods: Mapped to aproximately 230bhp, Full miltek exhaust with sports cat 3" downpipe and resonated 2.5" cat back, Airtek front mount intercooler all black including the pipework and intercooler itself, Oversized creation motorsport intake with 3" maf sensor, Ramair induction kit, APS 265lph fuel pump, Bilstein b6 standard ride height shock absorbers, polly bushed frount wishbones and anti roll bar, Pioneer headless bluetooth stereo with built in phone holder, Goodyear Eagle f1 asymetric 6 tyres, braided front brake hoses Collection: I in Burntwood Staffordshire, WS7 Pictures:

Hello Guys, TPI2075576x is the TPI no that I found on other related forums, but I'm afraid I don't have any extra details. Can someone with access to ErWin check and post here the full description? Thank you

But be careful not to do it during the summer, if facing the sun. You might find (I do) that the glass cleaner dries, smudged, before you can wipe/buff it off. I've given up anyway - had a lovely clean car yesterday, for the first time in a while. Went for my first 'pointless' drive of the year, and about 20 minutes in was greeted by the back of a gritter. Occy covered in salt, not happy!

In case anyone was wondering what it looks like. I prefer the badged logo personally.

Skoda released a software update in December 2024 to fix the intermittent parking distance control (PDC) error, which occurs more often during cold weather.

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Thank you. I tried it but it didn't work. I tried the https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.56.zip and that worked.

Thank you. I did it. The update works.

Found a few interesting new graph for my data from about 2.5 years driving the MY LR AWD: But keep in mind there is lower number of samples for -5, 0 and 30c. 35c is 0% so I've cropped out that column. Also an interesting short vs long trip consumption (efficiency) comparison, I've not looked through source code to see what count as short and what is long: Basically, looks like it is telling me ideal conditions are at around 30-50 mph in 10-30c. At 0c and driving at 70mph (when range actually matters), there is a 25% reduction in range compared to at 30c. At normal winter temperature of 5c around here, 70mph, there is 18% reduction in range compared to at 30c. This is fuelly plot of all my fuel ups with 2.0 TDI Skoda Octavia. Data are not as detailed as from Tesla, but we can see there is around 20% reduction in efficiency between winter (5-10c around here) and summer. I think people unfairly talk about EV poor winter efficiency, often forgetting diesel suffer more efficiency losses.

Looked at the 5 over the weekend. Quite disappointed. Small infotainment screen. Back seats small too. Will try the Dacia Spring Exteme for my backup car for the Scenic. Only a 30 kwh battery but better display and 10k cheaper plus better finance deals and V2L adapter chucked in I gather. That or hold out for R4 or even go for a Sandero, third best selling car in Europe.

Ok, an update! From the dealer: when the battery goes below 80% charge, the vehicle automatically turns off comfort settings and goes into protective mode, disabling the ACC. My battery was at 70%. the dealer fitted a new battery and all is well! Cheers!

Hello @Giannis20, You can download the Updated DB with latest Radio Station Logos from the link below: https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.56.zip "Official" MoP: https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/37W_Stationlogos_CustomerUpdate.pdf Good Luck!

Saw my first 25-plate car yesterday, it was an EV. A Peugeot E-3008 charging at Aldi (probably first ever charge)

A pressure fill is what is best practice and if you're getting a kit then you'll be sorted. 2017 would silly German/VW spec G13 coolant for patrial refills but many place will give you the later G12evo which really is a flush out job but they will mix. You can change the coolant without a pressure filler but you might need a bit of nerve and patience if you are the cautious type. Good luck. .

Well it's one of these two based on a Google of what's fitted: Mib3 (Superb Mk3.FL and similar) Content Downloadable 2023.12.20 2023.12.20 162 MB 2024.05.17 2024.11.07 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.50.zip 1,13 GB 2025.01.14 2025.02.20 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_NonGP_JND_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 166 MB Pass on what NonGP means... we need @MartiniB I'd try the bigger file, see whether that works then move onto the smaller one. You can read the radio release you currently have of your infotainment system, so what you want is something with a higher release. No good going below that. That's the other steer. Generally these update files lock onto your unit so if it's not relevant, it won't work. So no damage. Final answer as they say... look at your current version release off the screen and compare. As an aside I did read this post https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522574-update-to-version-1969/ And a followup post links to the flashing usb adaptor sold by Amazon. It's those ones that flicker people like on the map update to know something is happening.

I bought a set of Monroe shocks some months ago and they are doing fine. Original I had Sachs fitted bit these were not available at that time.

In case it can help someone in the future, I have identified an empty slot in my dash fuse box that is switched by ignition. I tested most of the empty slots (slots that in my vehicle do not have a fuse, see photo above) and almost all of them are permanently powered with 12V. However, slot number 49 in the diagram from the manual (see below) is only powered when ignition is on. I am now using this for my dashcam.

Thanks Terry, I have Goodyear Eagles on 18" wheels. Mine was built 14/11/2024 which was a Thursday. Had a good look at the menu system yesterday and found the surround sound settings and the graphic equaliser. Also tried the auto parking for the first time. A bit scary as it moves in so close to the car it is parking behind that the warning buzzer sounds, but it finished in the right place.

That is a good plan!

Congrats buddy. I’ve had my race blue combi for 3 weeks and I’m loving it.

Congratulations! Enjoy! Deffo worth the wait. The reason why the dipstick doesn't come out is because it doesn't have one. I looked on mine and realised it wasn't yellow like they usually are. I did pull it out but it's a blanking cap. You have to check the oil on the infotainment screen. Turns out most VW engines are like this! I'm not a massive fan of this but thats what it is. Just be careful topping up because it says to leave the ignition on for 2 mins to cycle the oil around the engine. Plus probably best to check when cold. I have only topped mine up 100ml during break in period.

Lovely sunset this evening and The Moon and Venus were bright in the sky ✨

Yes under hard acceleration in sport mode it does bark a bit but it’s a pleasant noise. I agree with Cedwing it is very quiet when cruising at 70. The suspension has no rattles or squeaks and rides really well on 19”s even over the atrocious roads we have here. I don’t think it has those silly false exhaust sounds coming from the speakers like some of the vRS and other VAG cars have. Tyres with 3 up on board are 2.9 Bar all around with the 265 4x4. It goes up a little in pressure when you are fully loaded. I would say the performance is brisk for a road car with no wheel spin. My 220 used to front wheel spin for fun on the P7s. This new one still has P7s on but it says “SEAL INSIDE” on them. Not sure if it is a different formulation but it seems to stick to the tarmac going around bends with uncanny grip. I think it is luck of the draw as to what brand of tyres you get with Škoda. Mine is a Tuesday car and got Pirelli’s. Maybe Wednesday’s get Goodyear and Thursday’s get Michelin. I still have a set of 18”s that I have for winter loaded with Nokian snow (winter) tyres. I need to get those old alloys refinished now as they are looking a bit scuffed. I haven’t driven it at night yet to see the matrix LED lighting in operation. John next time I’m in it I will photograph the place where the surround sound settings are and post it here.

Just read TerryMcK on surround sound and car-spots-roundabout topic. I had not noticed that, my Predictive Cruise Control will steer around corners and roundabouts but without slowing down, Where is the select ON for surround sound. I also tend to reach down for the gear change but getting used to it and it is a better place to have it, now I know its there.

Can't go wrong name-dropping @JR RS for all your Aussie advice and enthusiasm...

That looks like this plug is defective. It happens, but at most requires inspecting when/if you have a misfire rather than replacement of plugs every 6 months.

2023 7-speed should be DQ381 (wet clutch) as far as I know, but could be DQ200 (7-speed dry clutch) according to wiki. Maybe not in Superb. Googling whether either of them have a filter is a yes. Unless there’s another 7-speed I’ve missed, it sounds as if Rainworth Skoda don’t know what they’re talking about. No great surprise when @numskull was told his camchained engine needed a cambelt change. Exactly the reason forums like this are goldmines of info. Like @Ootohere said; oil change is scheduled to be every 80k miles and the filter only changed every other (ie every 160k miles). To me that’s bonkers but they’ve obviously decided that’s all that’s needed as a compromise between lifetime and owner-maintenance costs. I have a DQ381 and I’ll likely do it every 40k and have the filter done every time. Personal choice but preventive maintenance pays dividends in my opinion.

Ventured up to Edinburgh by train to pick up some vinyl. Just after the covers for framing and hanging. Anyone want some sleeveless records??🤣🤣 grabbed a couple of shots with the camera phone.

New genuine stat and temperature sensor ordered from a VW dealer, and a new stat pipe/housing bit from aftermarket/ebay seem to have finally put the cool running fiasco behind me a few weeks back. That was a ballache! In other good news, I took a punt on the cheapest of 3 MAFs GSF were suggesting for my reg (Hella branded), and it seems to have ended the driveability problems I was having. Smokeless and smooth now. Much more enjoyable drive.😎

This is not Columbus but Bolero. You can use 8" face-lifted display 5E0919605N.

Not able to walk far currently, so was chauffeured in my own car! Lovely colourful skies on the way back

And I put my 2017 L&K 220 with 18800 on the clock (honestly) in Part Ex for it. Still looking good. Someone is going to get a great car from it - have a look on Rainworth Škoda or škoda.co.uk

Yeah it might be the USB I'll try this before taking it to the dealers. Yeah android auto is enabled

21 years later... Wow, Wondering if this is the oldest thread revival post in the history of Brisky ??? ......... Lol.

Cheers Gaz, that sounds about right. Edit - confirmed by checking my last autoscan that is an 0GC DQ381. I did ring U18 to get it booked in and heard what I thought was 280 - I'm sure it would have been 381, but it is a 7 speed, so must be right. I also did ask "does that include a filter" and was told yes.... Which presumably means "no" 😀

40k on the six speed DQ250, 80k on the seven speed DQ381 - think you're likely going to have the latter: Gaz

I do not want to ruin your hopes. I have my iv since septemebr - first problem with all assitants happened in December. Then it reated once more a week ago. It was enough to leave the car closed for 5 mins - then all was back ok. Here in Polnad they say the update is expected in Q1