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It’s a fantastic car! Such a smooth drive and easy to get a hang of despite it being my first automatic let alone electric vehicle, and I’d hardly scratched the surface on all it can do! Ordered a 85 sport line through my work fleet scheme as soon as I got home, projected delivery “late March/early April” 😁

VW released few days ago a firmware update for the transmission.. they installed it in my car and apparently the problem looks to be fixed without replacing the parts.. hope this can be helpful.

The past 600 miles in the Electric MINI had cost me in electric the same as if I was driving a Petrol car / MINI getting 50 mpg due to being able to use cheaper Public Chargers. Previous trips using more expensive chargers has been as much as d 25% more expensive than an ICE vehicle Recent charging had been the 110 miles or so first full charge at 6.7 pence a kWh. Then near 50 pence to 62 pence a kWh. The cheapest being 47 pence on a 11 kW AC charger. When it is 70-85 pence Publjc charging then cheaper to use an ICE. It is a small battery so only about 33 kWh from a home charge. About 3.3 miles to a kWh on longer trips of mixed roads.

Going through some old shots from Knockhill, found this one which I quite like. Not sure how I missed it first time around.

Most bolts that people think are, aren't. Angle tightening after a lower initial torque is simply a far more accurate way of tensioning fasteners than torque alone. Friction makes up so much of the torque 'resistance' that it results in highly variable fastener tension. Angle always results in same increase in tension, because the extension of the bolt is a fraction (e.g. 90/360) of the thread pitch.

225/55r17 tested on several Superbs Mk3/Mk3.FL, perfect choice

Does anybody else find their brakes need pumping to get the car to stop? I’ve tried pushing the pedal to slow down, and by pushing all the way in, the car still hasn’t fully stopped. Pumping the brakes seems the only way to wake them up and sometimes there’s a weird clunk noise. Is this just me, or has anyone else found this?

Evening all Just signed up and trawling through many a post. New Owner of an old superb. Actually also inherited mum's fabia last year that is being driven by the teenage daughters. so guess im a double owner. So now have a 2015 L&K Superb estate and a 2009 Fabia Diesel. The superb has completely surprised me. its done a mass of miles, is nearly 10 years old but not a single thing is broken on it. not one. the lights, windows, sun roof, heated seat etc all as expected. I picked it up to run for a while as a newly ordered car isnt now arriving for about 6 months+. just sold a VW Transporter kombi T6 that had to get out of by the end of the tax year. so grabbed this superb from the dealier which had been Px'd in. for the cash paid on it - truly amazing. now searching boot liners, phone holders, or any upgrades ! anyway - hello from the UK and well done to whoever responsible for what appears a great supportive forum.

I'm sure you'll be delighted with it. What colour did you go for? I think the first electric vehicle is a nervous decision for most people. We went for a PHEV as an interim and regretted not going full electric after the first week. Will you be able to charge at home?

I've seen him be particularly ****y to others even new members. I certainly don't feel better learning he snipes at you (and others?). I thought he was my personal stalking troll and took exception to me as he may feel he overshared his past with me in the early days of me being a member and had regret at this, perhaps embarrassed I would bring up what was mentioned but I never have and wouldn't. I have seen him be all charm at times and give good information and advice that he clearly has in many matters but he too often reverts to the cowardly anonymous bully afforded by the internet. I'm totally bored with it but will not allow him to bully me even if I can't stop him bullying others. If he follows pattern he will not be back for a while (hopefully) so it can end for the time being (hopefully).

One thing I did notice on the Skoda app while hooking it up to the charger is that the car reports 'Not plugged in' until it starts receiving power. So for dynamic charging, where the charger only starts charging during the off peak hours, no need to worry that the car says its not plugged in when technically it is.

It's all of the buttons

Thankfully you were right Bowdie All very easy to charge. As you said, the car API can't communicate with the electricity supplier yet but the Ohme charger sent all the data and I'm getting the 7p per Kwh. Phew !

I think it's possible, but basically you need to pay for the car before that can happen. I spoke to our dealer about it and he said if its PCP, pay the deposit and sign the finance agreement, or if it's cash, pay the lot. I guess that's understandable, but personally, I wouldn't be handing over that sort of money without seeing the car.

How did the test drive go? Will you be ordering?

Your ****y outlook on me and others must also blur your vision as you seem incapable of fully reading my posts which you stalk out and it seems given your understanding it other matter that you wilfully misunderstand possibly couple with your arrogance and in this matter ignorance. These are not insults but facts from your posts here and in other threads where you rush over to snipe about my posts. As I've put several times before whatever your problems are I cannot help you with them so don't keep taking it out on me. And as I've put several times before I will no longer go out of my way to explain things to you or put up with - go and do your research and learn a bit more on this subject. I didn't ridicule you in another current thread when you were indirectly sniping at me for putting that only 0.5 mile of driving was require to charge a battery that was so flat the car needed a jump-starter to fire up the engine when no information was given about the battery age and condition only that the vehicle got just a few short journeys in 3 months. But you believe what you want, because you want to. There wasn't a 1.0v gain for 7 hours charging - but you believe what you want, because you want to.

What are you trying to achieve? Thanks. AG Falco

Do you know if TVS limit the torque a little, regardless? 415bhp and 560nm is quite interesting - mine peaked at 350bhp and 540nm before we took it down to a more sensible 330/490. That's an EA888.3 with some hardware and a TCU tune. Frankly I think you should be doing a TCU tune with any ECU tune, but that's just me. Anything stage 2+ I'd also be looking into some physical gearbox stuff - DSG boxes are great, but when they do go bang, they really do go bang. It is quite interesting that TVS don't mention their sintered clutches or anything, even on their stage 3/4 pages. The Golf Mk9 is en electric model, with the Cupra Leon/Formentor, vRS, etc almost bound to follow suit. The end for these cars isn't near, it's here. They did announce the EA888.5 not too long ago, so fingers crossed Cupra/Skoda/Audi will get their hands on them, as otherwise it's only available in this sack of sh-, er, joy.

You clearly have a fault with your brakes, please, for the safety of yourself and other road users, have the brakes urgently checked by a competent mechanic.

I've found my 2019 model 1.6td SEL to be comfortable, and no issues at all with suspension being noisy or crashing.

For me those are gross exaggerations and probably not sufficient for number of speaker and location. Size does not always relate to quality too, or the number of speakers or driver cones, often less can be more. The car and its cabin restrict sound quality but it depends on how much you are bothered about sound quality and how much sound quality you can or do hear. For expense and pleasure the lower quality you are happy with the better but this can be overtaken by ego, envy and competitiveness and any particularly person's taste. For me the speakers you have are too big and your taste of interior features and fitments is different to mine but these are not a bad thing, as always each to their own.

I have a Nikon P60 for that sort of use. It's quite old now but is a cracking piece of kit with both an screen and a viewfinder which is unusual on a compact camera but why I bought it. Second hand they're about £50 tops.

Warm mild soapy water in a spray bottle. A microfibre to move it in a circular motion and another to dry it.

Remove cabin fuse #7 and clean the contact surfaces. Then put it back in, noting if it feels loose. Then if the problem still happens, check the flat strip fuses in the fusebox above the battery. The power steering fuse is a 50 (or maybe 60?) Amp one with the thicker of the two red/black wires going to it. Examine the metal strip very carefully for cracks, photograph and post here if unsure. If you do find fuse 7 is dirty, corroded or loose, you should probably also find the fuse for your turn signals and look for similar corrosion, since that is also reported as an intermittent fault.

A compact camera might be the way to go. Check out the Panasonic lumix range or canon powershot range. Should be able to find something to suit most budgets. My personal favourite is a fujifilmX100VI.

The Energy guy on Martin Lewis said it was sharing the cost of the local infrastructure so dense population areas were cheaper than sparsely populated areas which made some sense. Octopus not the cheapest dual rate tariff but they generally have good customer service and I think their day rates maybe better than those with a cheaper night rate. The referral scheme and sometimes the free or savings scheme also nice side bits ie worth quite a few quid at times. Think I will probably stay with Octopus despite not being the cheapest but I will continue to add portable solar panels and more batteries to further reduce my day time usage even more. Some dual rate tariff users have got their day time rate use down to just a few percent so their average lecky tariff is way under a 10p per kwh average which is what I am aiming for. One only has to see the disaster after the sub station fire at Hayes and Heathrow area to see the benefits of local generation and electrical storage to allow continued living and working when there is such a massive outage due to the grid dropping out for many hours. The effect on cargo coming in to our Heathrow depots has been massive. Losses will be in the hundreds of millions no doubt. All preventable with current tech on electrical storage and generation.

He can't possibly be using CarPlay with his Pixel phone and it seems from his post that he has not got as far as trying Android Auto. He doesn't need to. His phone can indeed be operated from the Karoq's infotainment screen, whether one uses Android Auto or not. He needs to start by getting Bluetooth working in full and importing his contacts from phone to car. Wi-fi and/or Android Auto had better wait till those first steps have been taken.

it'll be fine. We currently have Octopus Go for our PHEV. We'd like to change to Intelligent Octopus where you get 7 hrs of cheaprate, but they can communicate with the car and as long as it's plugged in, they can choose to charge it at any time, but always charged at cheap rate. Unfortunately, they cant yet communicate with the Elroq

I would recommend with replacing the thermostat first

As a first step, check Bluetooth permissions: Go to your Pixel 8a's Settings > Connected devices > Bluetooth. Select your Karoq from the list of paired devices. Make sure "Share contacts and call history" is enabled. On the 8a, something above may have a slightly different name but it should be clear enough what setting you want.

I have rebooted the screen couple of days ago and looks good so far. Will see if this is just temporary and will need to reboot this again. Anyway, thanks for the advice!

HI, unfortunately no news yet. Over 2 weeks at UK port awaiting transporter but hoping no more than 3 weeks and maybe get news next week! Can only hope.

My wiper blade final arrived this afternoon. All went fine & fitted with a small suprise. The new wiper arm actually has a 1-2cm large sweep than the original part, fitting is simple & the new arm is fully compatible with the Bosch A403H blade. Total price for the new arm & bosch blade was €33 (24 + 8) not including the shipping so after 2 changes it is "cost neutral" to buying the new blade from Skoda directly. Here are some photos of the new & old wiper arm together. Top is the original arm from the car & bottom is the Skoda replacement. The original blade from the car has a higher quality finish (mottled effect instead of gloss plastic) but it doesnt really justify changing the design. One thing I noticed on the table was the placement of the "clipping" hole means that with the new arm the blade sticks out ~2cm more than the original. You can see this on the car once its fitted below..... I didnt clean the glass before hand as I thought it would help me make sure it was aligned but actually it shows clearly the difference in the sweep of the blade. Wash day is tomorrow I promise 😆

Your trolling here is just making you look silly and stupid (again). It seems you search out the words like neighbour and battery in my posts which is a form of stalking. You also try to bully. You cannot know or understand neighbours and people getting along well particularly me and my neighbours, they actually ask me to drive their cars and insist I borrow them if I need to and to charge the battery when required to prevent them paying a lot of money on battery replacement and other simple jobs on their cars and homes. You only toll, stalk and bully because you are on the internet, I'm not responsible for your past relationships or you being in France, please don't take it out on me because it has got very boring for me and others. Once again you have contributed nothing constructive or humorous to this thread.

I do have it in writing via email that both the tail light and window will be fixed/replaced under warranty thankfully

Problem solved, there is a small fuel filter attached to the gas float pipe in the tank(which was installed as new replacement part 30 days ago), and it somehow became loose and sliding up and down up the pipe that delivers gas to the engine, so when it would randomly go up.. it would close the pipe as a sort of a cap.. and normally the engine will stall and/or die. You can see a video of the filter issue here.

I agree - a wheel alignment should be a first port of call. The thing is with Octavia's; they do have the habit of throwing out their wheel alignment (its also a Golf/Leon issue too); try to avoid the potholes if possible, but IMHO - this will need to be done as an annual thing. The other thing you should consider is using some sound deadening material in the boot area. This is lacking in the Octavia (one of the reasons why its cheaper than a Golf), but for a small role of the stuff, line the metal base and spare wheel well with this and it will make a massive difference.

I'd expect those fixing before taking delivery. Oh and software and firmware updating to latest standards too.

It’ll be a faulty wheel speed sensor. Symptoms identical to mine about three years ago.

Got out on my bike this afternoon for a nice ride. Out in the middle of Pevensey marshes, it felt like I had the place all to myself: Nothing to hear but birdsong and water running over a small lock gate 😎 Gaz

Changing from the standard 215/55R17 to 215/65R17 is far too big an increase. The speedo will under-read, there might be rubbing especially the front on full-lock, and the gearing will be too high...especially first gear for pulling away and top gear. If you want a better ride, first make sure you've chosen tyres will soft and flexible sidewaalls such as good all-season tyres...and that the tyres aren't over-specified...so something like 215/55R17 94V rather than 215/55R17 98W XL. Choosing W-speed rating if you only need V-speed rating and XL (eXtra Load) rather than SL (Standard Load) will make the sidewalls stiffer and therefore the ride harder. Choosing a narrower 6.5" rim width for the 215/55R17 will also make the ride softer compared to fitting this tyre size to a wider rim such as 7" or 7.5". Perhaps look at 215/60R17 fitted to a 6.5" rim width, or 215/65R16 fitted to a 6.5J rim width. One benefit, is that these two tyre sizes tend to be a bit cheaper than 215/55R17.

Heavy right foot, low efficiency, light right foot, high efficiency.

Updated Information ! This download is a new BETA/TEST Version! Ok everyone - here's some brief info. I haven't forgotten about my thread. Like yourselves I'm fed up of waiting to do a new update but the preferred database that I normally use and convert hasn't been updated or shared for quite a while. I've therefore borrowed the same sourced database that's being used for a totally different satnav device and converted them instead. This database uses different and somewhat confusing speedcam categories to the ones that I'm used to using so I've had to amalgamate some of them. Regard this update as a TEST VERSION and if you have any issues or feel they're not satisfactory then you can re-download my previous ones until I do a new update. All feedback is quite welcome even if it might take a while for me to reply. Latest Updated Speedcams - March, 2025. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( March, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into three consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams and Average Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - March, 2025.zip * Credit to Sunnyside Navi and Gpsurl for the use of this database without which these files would not have been compiled.

It only takes a few moments and once you start to notice the grime you always see it. I went out and did mine.... well, the windscreen. Didn't bother with the rest.

love that you fit quality bits and do a job right 💚

I see the Octavia VRS and the Golf GTI now come as standard with 265Ps so I assume that sadly the engine in the MK4 Superb is a VRS/Golf GTI engine rather than a Golf R / S3 engine. I imagine a remap will probably only get you to just over 300Ps where the old 280Ps Mk3, especailly the pre GPF cars, would make nearer 370Ps. The latest MK8 R has 333ps so I cant see VAG detuning that to 265PS for the Superb when they have a 265PS engine in other cars. Getting big power just isnt going to be as easy as it was. I imagine this is why Skoda gave Re performance one of the very last MK3 cars to play with rather than using it as an oportunity to show off the MK4. Stolen from another page when comparing the MK7 Golf GTI Engine to the R Engine: Different Alloy for cylinder head Exhaust valves (hollow, higher Ni content, nitrided) Exhaust valve seat rings (improved temperature stability and wear resistance) Exhaust camshaft (adapted valve timings) Compression ratio 9.3:1 with different pistons Piston cooling jets (higher flow rate) High pressure injectors (even higher flow rate) Larger exhaust turbocharger - Charge pressures of up to 17.4 PSI (1.2 bar) Saying all that unless you are planning on tuning the car the the smaller turbo will make the car more efficient and responsive at lower RPM and its still going to hitch its skirt up and fly with a stage one map on it.

This is an old known fault, but like @SnailUKi am surprised it's not been fixed, also the document linked above might not be the correct parts for your car, or even apply to your model. The microswitch is not 'switching' anything, it's a fault in sensing the level position, the car doesn't think it's in Park when it is.

Very common issue, failure of a microswitch in the selector tower. A repair kit can be had that replaces just the internal switch with a bolt on external one. Im assuming youre still under warranty so id be pushing for a new selector tower.

I have attached a TPI to read, mainly for anyone following the thread in future. Current repair kit is 3Q0 713 128, with the caveat that this might change in future at any point, as well as revision to the TPI document - they are not set in concrete, revisions are made from time to time. 2060686.3 - Fault Workshop! Leave vehicle only in position P.pdf