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My Daughter's Trident 660: Chip off the old block 😁 Gaz

Today I booked the car in for full Paint Correction and Ceramic Coat.

So after 8 years it's time to move on from the Superb. I know longer have the need for such a large car and also I'm intrigued to try the EV space so I've just bought a Megane E-tech. The Superb has been without doubt the finest car I have ever owned and I will really miss it. For the space, comfort, versatility, quality and running costs it is untouchable IMO. I always loved the engine, the 1.4tsi ACT is one of VAGs finer efforts, smooth, quick, frugal and reliable. The car has been 100% reliable, never failed to start, never let me down. Wear and tear items were exactly what you would expect, and parts where always affordable when sourced smartly. Now I bought mine when there was great value second hand, and new prices are now crackers, so the current Superb no longer offers the value with once did IMO. Thanks you to everyone here for all the advice and tips over the years, this is a great community and a goldmine of information. I won't be gone 100%, as my wife still has exactly the same car sitting in the driveway for a while yet. :-)

This evenings sunset 😎

So I get in the car and the warning "Change key battery" appears. Feeling smug and well prepared, I go to the man drawer and there is a new unopened packet of 2 Long Life 2025 Duracells. A quick flick with a screwdriver opens the key fob and a handy nail flips out the existing battery. It takes a few minutes to open the annoying Duracell bubble pack, but the new battery is soon in, and the key reassembled. I get back in the car, and the "Change key battery" appears again. Strange, I thought, but car started OK and off I went. I get back home after a 10 mile journey, get out off the car and press the fob to lock the doors. Nothing happens. I try again. Nothing happens. I put the key in the ignition and the warning "Change key battery" is still there. Must be a dud battery, I think, but that's very unusual. However, I do have another new battery, I'll use that. I open the fob and take out the battery which falls on to the table. I see a red sticker on the underside. "Harmful if swallowed". I removed it and reassemble the fob. Car doors lock and the ”Change key battery" warning has gone. 🤦🏻

I wasn't too sure what I was doing, but after reading your replies & a bit of following my nose, I have now got all 4 windows back to opening & closing on the fob, so PetrolDave & OccyVRS: thanks very much for your help.

There was 14.5V at the alternator output using the alternator body as the earth. There was still 14.5V at the +ve terminal on the battery, using the alt. as earth, but when I moved the earth lead to the -ve post, it was down to 12V. In the end, I found that the earth lead from the engine to the body was high resistance on the engine connection! I cleaned it up and now have 14v+ across the battery. I have learned rather late that a charging fault is not always the alternator or the battery! Thanks for your help. I now have a spare good alternator.

Had a look and can't find anyone in uk. Listed as No longer available. Might be worth trying VW/Skoda/Seat to see if there is any old stock anywhere? Another option is to find a blown engine and strip it down. You could try rolling it on a perfectly flat surface and try to straighten it if its not too badly bent. Aasdair

Hi, The today to do... done list on my TDI190 4x4 at 135000km on the clock: Engine oil + oil filter changed Cabin filter changed Fuel filter changed Haldex oil changed Haldex pump strainer cleaned. The strainer was quite covered with a kind of marmelade... It's the 3rd time I clean it (previously done at 45000 and 90000km), but the 1st time I've seen this kind of film looking like a thin piece of paper. But it was indeed nothing but this kind of marmelade... Strange... Coming soon: swapping for 19" summer wheels and deep clean to sell it (if I can find one to replace it 😐)...

Resetting the one touch does NOT involve the fob, only the window switches on the door - and the door does not have to be open just the ignition on. You're making it far too complicated!

Hello I just became an owner of a spanking new Octavia vRS mk 4.5 and I'd like to share my first impressions but before that a bit of a background story. Last year I was looking for a new car to replace my Ford Mondeo Titanium S from 2009. It served me well but it was time for something newer. I guess my criteria mostly were that the car had to be practical but also a bit sportier than the previous one. Initially I was looking at Cupra Leon Sportstourers (also estate) but I was eventually mesmerised by a velvet red Octavia RS mk4 liftback. I thought I got a pretty nice deal on it as it was just barely used (~3000 km), so no new car tax to pay for me anymore, and it had ton of extra equipment as well. I was super happy with it. Then in February the facelift was announced and I admit that I didn't think much of the RS facelift at that moment. I was definitely thinking that the front lights were cooler on my current RS, I mean the fog-lights were a separate unit and the front bumper was also much more aggressive and edgier. Also nothing really bothered me too much about the infotainment system. But....as time passed the design of the facelift had started growing on me and in addition some of the improvements here and there (a bit more power, newer infotainment system). And by July I managed to convince myself that I want the facelift RS, so I ordered one! It arrived at the end of September. However, by that time I still hadn't found a new owner for my mk4. I had some offers but nothing good enough yet so I asked the dealership to wait a bit and give me more time to sell my mk4. Then I finally found a buyer and told the dealership as well that I'm now ready to receive the new car. But I guess I jumped the gun there a bit as the deal to sell the old car hasn't been quite finalised yet. So that means that I'm in a unique position where I currently own a mk4 Octavia vRS and a brand new mk4.5 Octavia vRS and they are both velvet red! But it's a good opportunity to compare them. So finally, here are my thoughts on the differences: The specs Both of my cars have a ton of extra equipment but there are slight differences (just some quality of life extras really). I really liked the extra features on the old car so I mostly copied them when speccing the new car as well. But most notable ones: Both cars are liftbacks Both are velvet red mk4.5 has 20 extra horse power but cannot test it yet if I can actually feel the difference (still break-in period) Both have DCC, Adaptive Lane Assist Both have Suedia (leather) seats (as part of Challenge Plus package on the old mk4, separate option on mk4.5) Both have 19" wheels (Altair on mk4, Elias on mk4.5) Both have a Heads Up display Navigation was a separate option on mk4 but I think it's part of the base RS spec now. I couldn't spec preheating for mk4.5 in my region (wasn't available in the spec sheet and still isn't in the configurator) I added Canton sound system on the mk4.5 (yet to review it properly) Exterior The biggest difference between mk4 and mk4.5 is the front part of the car (as you've probably seen from pictures yourself). As I also mentioned above, it took some time for the new design to grow on me but I really like it now. The rear lights are also a bit different (the shape/light bar of the turning signal is now horistinal and straight, see picture). Also the stripes/trails within the rear lights seem to be illuminated (more). The design of the 19" wheels is different. I don't like the aero cover (or however you call it). I think the Elias wheels look much better without it so I removed the covers. However, beware that if you decide to remove the covers you need to purchase a set of centre caps and lug nut covers. Otherwise it's a bit ugly still. the vRS logo is different, I think the new one is better in the sense that you can actually understand that it says vRS (I remember one of my friends asking what VIRS means and the old logo can absolutely be misinterpreted that way) Door sill protectors have "Octavia" written on the, not vRS. Interior Interior design is mostly the same but there are more and less noticeable differences: The biggest difference (literally) is the size of the infotainment screen. It's 13" on the new one vs 10" on the old one. However, the larger screen size is in any way disturbing. The upper edge is still below the dashboard and isn't blocking the view in any way. Coupled with the upgraded infotainment system it's a really nice upgrade. Some of grey coloured pieces (door handle, the plastic around the gear shifter, rotating knobs on the steering wheel) is dull/matte whereis it was shiny on mk4. The design of the wireless charging pad/compartment has changed a bit and it feels like it's holding the phone a bit better in place. The icons on the physical buttons have changed a bit. Infotainment system/Virtual cockpit That's the big change on the inside and in short, the improvement is huge. The infotainment system is very responsive. The new style feels a bit more modern The digital instrument cluster is a more customisable as well (The right arrow on the steering wheel now switches between different display modes eg map, trip info, gear info (D, S, M), while the left one chooses between display style (with tacho and speedometer or without) No custom vRS animation on the instrument cluster when entering the car anymore, it's mostly black with SKODA fading in. 😞 The gear information (D, S1-S7 etc) can now be displayed with a huge font between the tacho and speedometer (vs being displayed in the bottom left corner on mk4). That's super awesome now. The normal gearbox mode (D) will still display only D and not D1-D7. The Adaptive Lane Assist button is now gone from the steering wheel but the option to switch to it from ACC is now hidden in the same menu (left upper button on the right side of the steering wheel). When I first saw that the button is missing I thought that they forgot to install it and actually had to double check that it's there. There's now always an indicator bar visible in the speedometer dial that shows how much range you have left to go, so now you can select something else to display in your speedometer dial. The physical button for selecting your driving modes now toggles through driving modes, that's nice! There's a ton of customisable shortcuts at the top and at the bottom of the screen (eg can set shortcuts for car, assists, lane assist, heated front windshield at the top; media, phone, navigation, android auto/carplay shortcuts at the bottom) The widgets on the infotainment screen are slightly less customisable but that doesn't really bother me: there's a couple of templates that you select from when creating pages/screens, previously you had more freedom here. I wish the HOME button was slightly bigger though. It was easier to press it on mk4 infotainment screen as it was actually a separate "button" on the left of the screen in mk4. Now it's an icon on the screen. The style of the integrated navigation system feels more modern but haven't used it that much as I'm more of an Android Auto user. Audio As mentioned, my new mk4.5 has Canton sound system. My initial reaction is that's it's not much of an improvement (still), let's see if I can figure out some good settings for it. I did have to check whether the subwoofer (squeezed into the spare wheel compartment) actually worked. Yeah, you can feel and here the vibration when you open the boot but not that much in the driver's seat. I do hope that the only result of the subwoofer won't be the body panels falling off in the back and that I can at least feel the bass when that's happening. There is an extra setting to adjust the subwoofer in the Sound menu. So in short, default settings seem a bit lacklustre but I still need to play around with settings before drawing a final conclusion. Some missing features/changes I've encountered some inconveniences on the new mk4.5 (not a deal breaker though) I think the biggest feature that's missing on the mk4.5 and that I found quite useful as well is the lack keyless lock/unlock on the rear doors. In other words, when you previously could unlock the car by just pulling the read door handles and it would unlock (and could also lock it using rear doors) then that's now gone. You have to take an extra step to touch the front door handle. Another annoyance that I found is that the speed limit warning is turned on each time you switch on the ignition. Unfortunately that's done so to comply with legislations (manual says so). However, Skoda did add a shortcut to disable it quickly (same button and place where you can disable Lane Assist). However, not all has been perfect! When I logged in with my Skoda account into the car and added myself as the main user, it wanted to load some settings which I assume were from the mk4. It did load my seat position but also a lot of icons appeared in the infotainment menu that were just loading (had the loading animation). Perhaps there's a more clever way to solve the issues but I eventually deleted and recreated my Skoda account. I took the car for a first proper drive over the weekend and had a yellow/amber "Emission control system fault" icon appear in the instrument cluster. No errors/warnings in the infotainment menu (status is fine there) as well and car drives fine as well. I plugged in my bluetooth OBD scanner to see what it comes up with and it reported fault codes P2080 (P2080 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1) and P2084 (P2080 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2). So now I'm taking it back to the dealership. I hope it's just an improperly installed sensor (as per repair manual it seems that both sensors are wired into the same connector) but let's see. That's it for now. Feel free to ask questions and I'll try to answer them. And some pictures as well:

So...had my 2.0TSI estate for nearly 7 years now (bought from someone on here). It was remapped to 260bhp by me after about a month as standard... and has been great. However after engine light kept coming on this year, I decided to invest in a new manifold (which fixed it) and new Koni dampers and new springs. Intention to keep another few years at least. And what a transformation! The car is back to life. Handling much improved, the old suspension passed mots fine but must have been very tired. The ride which was on a par with my 2018 Fiesta ST is now really smooth. Really happy as it is still an immaculate car and much more stable in every way. Going to buy the racechip pedal box to improve the throttle response (to make getting out the ST that bit less of a shock!) and I have a family car I'm genuinely happy with, owned for 2 years longer than anything else I've had.

If you buy the bearing alone (my preference as its cheaper) then you have to press out the old bearing and press the new in. If you buy a bearing and housing assembly no press needed but you are likely to need to give the old one the good news with a club hammer to remove it, I think the driveshaft can remain in place, touch wood I have not had to replace one yet.

AC chargers to stay at 49p per kwh. Would like to see even more 11, 16 or 22 kw chargers. One can save so much money, if one has the time to kill, one can save enough to pay for coffees or even food if one is hanging around for an hour or two. Might well be using more AV from the Gridserve chargers.

The pre-facelift has a 3Q0 front camera, where traffic sign recognition can be activated through coding/adaptations. The authors Superb has a 2Q0 camera, which requires a SWaP code. For reference: The first FL versions were produced from 07.2019 to 07.2020, featuring old steering wheels but a new 2Q0 camera. From 07.2020 onwards, they came with new steering wheels and MIB3. The author has the first FL version, so activating TA is quite simple - it only requires a compatible steering wheel and units coding I mentioned above(in case all required units exists). I can't help with SWaPs remotely, need ODIS and online. For TA you need to buy new steering wheel. And figure out with coding of LA. I believe there a lot of guide in internet. After that you can PM me about adapter.

Correct. I was (badly) explaining that the reason increasing the size of the master cylinder will increase the braking force is that, with a smaller cylinder, moving the pedal 1cm will move a given amount of fluid. Whereas, with a larger cylinder, moving the same pedal 1cm will now move more fluid, with more force being required to shift this. This also leads to a shorter pedal travel, if the piston size isn't changed, as a larger cylinder will push more fluid into the piston faster. TLDR - the ratio of the master cylinder piston size (cross section) to the caliper piston is the mechanical advantage. Hence, why the two always need to be paired.

Summer wheels back on. With Forge 11mm hubcentric spacers all round so it doesn’t look quite like a fat guy with tiny feet. Uploading pics from iPhone seems to flip them upside down. I turned the pictures upside down in my photo album thinking I’d play the system…and it uploads as is, still upside down 🤯

Like others I decided to reject my PHEV Skoda. Fortunately my dealership was very helpful and supported my claim. The process took about a week. As mentioned in another thread I reserved the right to reject my car when it broke down after 13 days. Skoda CS were of little help and could offer no date for a fix. For the 2 months I had the car the number of problems/errors grew and so I was left with no choice - a pity as I liked the car very much. Having had problems with 2 previous new cars (a Citroen PHEV and a Fiat EV) although not as serious as the Skoda, it is clear manufacturers are pushing these technically advanced cars out without being properly tested.

Had no other choice for 15 years. I always selected a matching set of 4 that were evenly worn, usually those that had been changed at 4mm tread depth, the cheapest and with more life and grip left in them than they had delivered the original purchaser.

Gridserve making prices variable depending on location: Pricing update on the GRIDSERVE Electric Highway | GRIDSERVE Tesla prices haven't changed, peak price still in 40-50p range, but peak time period has been increased massively to be from 8/9am to 7/8/9pm. Depend on location. Before, driving day time is easy to avoid peak prices and pay sub 40p. Now unless driving over night, pretty much guarentee paying peak pricing.

I am guessing the warning light might be broken / old, I have noticed some lights in my dash won't stay on from time to time so I gotta checke the electrical out in there! Yes I did feel the brake was a bit easier to push down at first but I just thought there was a bunch of air in it and that they took that out. Eventually I tried to make an emergency stop and almost crashed because I felt like I just pushed through the brake pedal so I immediately (very carefully, I was not that far away from home) drove home. It is indeed a strange occurence but maybe one day someone has the exact same issue as me and will find this helpfull lol

2 things we haven't done while owning a 4x4. 1, been green laning in the Cotswolds and 2, been on a guided green laning trip. It this video Alana and I tick both of those things off the list by doing one of Green Laning Lennie's half a day Cotswold trips 😁. We have met Josh (aka Green Laning Lennie) 2 or 3 times at different shows and he has always said that we should do one of his tours one day. We thought we'd dip our toe in at the shallow end as to say and booked onto one of his half a day trips to get the feel. Even though some of his trips can be hard going, he also does some lighter ones for anyone with cars that don't have low range, diff locks and high lifts on them 😁. Seeing as we had a lot of fun on the Wales trip in the Yeti, we opted to take it to this Cotswolds trip and it was really at home with the terrain! 😃 The scenery on offer was pretty incredible too! We try and mix up the videos that we put out, so this one is mostly set to music and I've tried to add a bit of pace to the overall video. Hopefully all being well, there should be a more raw edit of our trip being released this coming Friday if I get my bum into gear 😂. If anyone else has a Skoda that they use offroad or just a second vehicle that they use off-road and want to do a similar trip or something a bit more aggressive, head over to Green Laning Lennie's shop to see what he has on offer. If we had an overland equipped vehicle, we would be sorely tempted by his morocco trip! 🤩 https://www.greenlaningtours.com/

I have used TIGAR tyres on various vehicles, mostly winter or all seasons, but had summers on a Volvo. Tigar just one of the brands / factories Michelin own who also own ATS Euromaster. (&BlackCircles) At the desk i often get a price for fitted lower than the Website / Online ordering shows, or an offer of tyres they have in stock at the branch or for next day delivery.

Will do.

Part worn is a bit of a minefield, so depends on the place you get them and their source. Some could be almost brand new from insurance write offs etc. Some are from people who don't believe in puncture repairs and just buy new whatever. Then there are imports from countries with a higher minimum tread than the UK. Used to buy them when skint but don't now.

Good comment above about the springs being "soft", this is also producing excess chassis/body movement which can be detrimental!🙂 I am using DCC almost always on Sport, and i noticed the added rigidity is less of a bother compared with the large, excessive body roll/pitch usually associated with the "Normal/Eco" settings ...

Speaking from my perspective and experience the cleaning didn't helped much - the error reappeared shortly after. So as I already mentioned there weren't any side effects (at least to my knowledge) but the check engine light was quite disturbing so I decided to replace the NOx sensor. I bought it from a local car parts seller for ~275 euro and after the replacement everything was fine. :) I can share more details if you want to

Nissan was cut to junk bond status by Moodys last month....... https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2025-02-26/nissan-cut-to-junk-by-fitch-ratings-days-after-moody-s-downgrade Failure to merge, allow take over by Honda probably. Departure of Nissan CEO in Japan. Nissan, as ever, have some good products but have looked disorganised and their debt very large but then so is Japan as a whole ie twice GDP I recall. Companies are obliged to keep spares available for 7 years I recall rolling for 7 years I seem to recall but if your bust your bust. Be a lot more bankruptcies if these trade war tariff's bite.

Keep a bottle of G12evo with you and make sure you aren't getting any leaks. It's worth getting yourself an ODBEleven dongle as you can get the car to perform the coolant purging process yourself.

What's up with Nissan? I was actually talking to my wife about her next car, even if they go out of business and stop producing the car, parts should still be available for at least 10+ years after last car rolls off production line??

Try to search FL_5WA035284_0088_PART1_V001_S.frf FL_5WA035284_0088_PART2_V001_S.frf

Well.. I know little about the DQ200..... Presumably that is what you've got. 7 speed, dry clutch. They have had a few problems. Yours you say is operating perfectly but has a dogs squeeky toy hidden in it... I don't enough about this transmission to say what it is. But it is constant cyclical so may be something to do with the oil pump or a regulator... If there is no driveability issue and no codes, and you really want to investigate all I could recommend is find a specialist in DQ200 transmission repairs they will probably recognise it straight away if it is a common scenario....

Ps car driving noticeably better now👍🏻

Tyres are a very important and generally unrated complex component, an important part of brakes, steering and suspension systems (much more important than the engine). It can depend on the tyres initial storage before fitting, then use and storage when on car as to how they age but in that photo that tyre at that point doesn't look good generally to me - but I'm not an expert in anything, just have decades of experience of owning and driving cars daily on our roads, some 20-50 years old, and of other "classic" (over-valued, over-priced old) cars and their owners, some who should have known better and some new to "classics". Below an example of old (27 years at the time) tyres that looked very, very good or excellent (I forget) and had lots of tread depth on them, the owner (MR R G Everitt) long ago put photos up as advice and warning for other "classic" car owners and allowed me to do so too. Of course your dad's tyres might be fine (????? ! ?????) and they might go on so for a good while yet - but- if you're cleaning his car for him you might value him over any inheritance and prefer to see new fresh tyres fitted. All the people that responded after changing to new tyres agreed that they wished they had done so sooner.

"It was smoking a bit" she said

The correct oil type for your gearbox (not the Mechatronic!!) is G055512A2 (you need 1.7 liter). That is however not going to fix any clutch issues, since the clutch is dry, and completely separated from the gearbox and its oil.

I agree with @JimG59 but There is no definitive tyre age limit as to when you should replace your tyres but once your tyres reach 7-10 years old, you should keep a close eye on their condition and consider replacing them. It is illegal for the front (steering) axle or axles of: goods vehicles with a gross mass more than 3.5 tonnes buses coaches minibuses and also to the rear axle, or axles, unless equipped with twin wheels to use tyres aged more than 10-years.

Tyres are 17 years old, is that right ? I think they are long overdue a change. Most guidelines reckon 10 year old tyres mean it’s time they were changed, no matter mileage.

Well thanks everyone that offered advice in my Mk3 Vs MK4 thread So yesterday I picked up my April 24 registered 2.0 TSi L&K. Factory options. Petrol Blue, 19" Vega Aero's, massage seats and towbar that has not been used. Very pleased with it so far.

OEM springs are too soft -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160

Does one touch window open/close work on ALL windows? - that's a pre-requisite for the long press to work. If it doesn't then you need to reset one touch by the usual hold the switch down when the window(s) fully open and fully closed.

I don't know what's up with briskoda but it keeps uploading some of my photos upside down. Anyway. New plugs New Air filter (and short ram jobby) Had a go at fixing the fogs Regulator has me tortured. Completely and totally, but I may finally have it back together next day. New Discs and pads, and lh caliper. Took my time painting and cleaning up. Pads were 'ok'cheapish brakefit ones, had good life aside from the caliper sticking. Discs were clearly replaced with the pads, so no lip. Could have reused them but didn't want to risk it considering. Slight improvement. Got the flags back on it, are MG ones apparently. And New plates finally. Not really driven it since just keeping busy at it.

Its a possibility that the AVRCP protocol is struggling here a little. I would personally do two things: 1) Make sure your MIB system is running on the latest available firmware (other postings can help you with that) 2) Lock down your AVRCP version to something like 1.3 or 1.4 - you have to enable this in Developer mode on your Android handset (latest is version 1.6).

I totally agree, good music means the connection is ok. How is the quality when you use your phone without the bt?

ACC is one of my favourite options on the Golf 👍 It's helpful in stopping me speeding too. Wears the back brake pads out mind as it uses the electronic parking brake for slowing - small price to pay IMO. Gaz

Probably changing the sensor is the key for a while, the thing is, If you drive in the city the error will come back I don't know where we can find the best price for this

If music over Bluetooth is fine then the Bluetooth and the MIB are probably OK, so this sounds like a phone or mobile network issue?

You might want to give us your background / your car / what your MIB system is etc etc. What you describe could be numerous things.

Plenty of gloss there pal 🫡

Hello gents, since i am a czech boi, i asked directly at the ŠKODA's customers service in Mladá Boleslav regarding the possible infotainment switch. I described the topic, i would say, very detaily, mentioning all the part's article numbers and even pointing out the similarities of mounting brackets, etc.., Although ŠKODA's response was as expected... They just responded "NO" in a simple sentence... I doubt they even tried to think about it (even tho i see that they actually created a "ticket" (E1EA79367A424) for my case... But i am still refusing to believe that this switch is not possible. Especially considering, that the facelifted Octavia offers both infotainment systems in the same interior (throughout different trim levels). So for sure, this thing got to be retrofitable... but i dunno... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯