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Reading the battery voltage of the battery when not loaded is not an indication of battery capacity. As batteries age, not only is the capacity reduced but they also look like there is a resistor in series with the output, limiting maximum cranking amps. As said before, check the battery voltage when cranking or get a battery supplier to use their test equipment (usually free) to see how it performs under load.

The view from the back seems ok, decent penetration in the main anyway. I played games with my spot rivet drill And with maximum effort the lower panel of the donor scuttle has been removed! I think all that 'yellow' is waxoil or similar. whatever it is it seems to have done a half decent job. certainly seeped into all the seams as gravity allowed. I also repaired another section of the lip where the windscreen attaches and dressed the repairs so they follow the line of the rubber sensibly with no steps. I did intend to split the scuttle from the remains of the firewall on both the donor and recipient but after doing some cleanup, the firewall on the recipient is pretty trash so we're keeping the donor pinch seal intact and cutting lower down the firewall in the truck and butt welding in. That drama will have to wait for another evening, or an excited evening because I get tired sometimes and doing this with a clear head seems the best as I only get one chance to get it right. I'm pretty happy though that the welder is dialled in to punch all the way through without blowing out. It's going to be a good meter or so of weld that's going to be needed to patch this cut and shut together.

Everything on our Roomster went to sleep with door open and no attempt to lock car. Surprised me a little.

The title says 'Leak' but if no oil is leaking it is actually about Using Oil. Different things.

Yeah i understand that since reading up. Think the point i was trying to address is they said full service history i.e all items required were done before viewing which it hadn't but apparently they added later on the saturday to provide that full service. The point being at point of inquiry before placing the deposit it was misleading to suggest amongst several other things. Mot is stsmped at 10am both mot/service work was done on the same day apparently. Given they start 830 (allowing time to get stuck in etc) id imagine MOT was done first. Then brake fluid and rear discs/pads if they were done. To me MOT is just as it stands at point of testing. The previous discs could have been in bad shape and therefore should not of passed MOT or they just needed to meet approved standards so if service work was taken afterwards could have affected things.

I stand to be corrected but believe that is referred to as a 'low level' camera along with rain and automatic headlight sensor - AFAIK it is incompatible for TSR.

So bit of an update. Finally spoke to service manager (verbally) yesterday following receipt of outstanding documents. The following was discussed: He advised i need to send a letter if my intention is to reject. He accepted that documents should of been made available at point of sale which they werent and i did not know what had/hadnt been done. He has already confirmed these were locked away over the bank holiday weekend. In terms of service history i was told during my initial discussions the car had full service history. On thursdsy sales manager confirmed that as part of prep they undertook brake fluid change, oil and pollen filter. As such on my initial discussions it didnt have full service history and therefore potentially misrepresentstion at that time. AG Falco has helpfully provided service search (thankyou for this again). 6 days later it hadnt been uploaded from the service they told me they did during prep but appreciate this may be going through admin process. Given difficulties i have had though i find this concerning still. My issue now is whether to reject the car. Looking for alternatives there is basically a very limited availability of cars in this spec (manual/diesel) and none in white without going to significantly higher price point (which i can afford but then starts the stress of finding a car all over without anything in the interim). My other concern is whether they dispute my rejection and state nothing wrong with brakes when its back in their ownership and then take there own case to me. As there were things promised and not underaken as agreed already there is a definite lack of trust here and i want the matter simply resolved. After reading the unfair trading regulations i do think i have a case in this matter over lack of information/misrepresentstion over no information being provided/insurance terms when asked directly to make an informed decision on the car as this was only provided after the fact/things not being as they should. I have wrote a statement of events over what has occurred over the last week between me and the salesman and detailing the sales/service managers responses. Should i send this over to the sales manager for review or is this going to open even more issues for me.

If you're in Ireland, surely it would be far easier to just buy one in the UK and drive it over on the ferry? The amount of work you'd have to do to swap everything over would be not really worth it.

Why this upgrade? (I'll post some more pictures of the process today)I drive a Skoda Superb Combi 1.4 iV PHEV Sportline (MQB platform), and while it's a comfortable cruiser, I always felt the stock 288 mm brakes were underwhelming, especially during emergency braking. As a volunteer firefighter, I sometimes need to get to the station quickly. I found the stopping power to be insufficient for such a heavy car (1.8 tons), I also own a 2004 Audi RS6 C5, which has 8-piston Brembo front brakes — and the difference is night and day. While the RS6 is more powerful and performance-focused, it made me realize just how undersized the brakes on the Superb iV are, especially when you need to stop hard from higher speeds. That’s what motivated me to upgrade to a proper 340 mm OEM front brake setup, as found on GTI/Cupra models. so I upgraded to a 340 mm front brake setup. Similar to what’s used on Golf GTI / Cupra Leon / Golf GTE. MQB(Evo) platform I also installed: Hardrace rear sway bar DCC module tweak greatly improved braking and handling stability. Eibach Pro kit I sourced all parts from a scrapyard, except for the dust shields, which I ordered new from the dealer. That makes this a budget-friendly OEM-style upgrade — not a fancy aftermarket setup, but a factory-matching improvement that fits perfectly on the MQB(EVO)-based Superb. Good donor cars to look for: Golf 7 GTI Cupra Leon (5F or KLCF) Golf GTE / Octavia RS / Cupra Formentor Most of these use the exact FN3 caliper with 340 mm front discs. Partslist: Part OEM Number Qty Notes Brake caliper + carrier 5Q0615105EG (L) / 5Q0615106EG (R) 1 set FN3 calipers from GTI/Cupra/Formentor Brake discs 340x30mm 5Q0615301G 2 Vented, for FN3 caliper Brake pads – 1 set Match FN3 caliper (ATE, Ferodo, etc.) Carrier bolts N90678001 4 Stretch bolts, always use new ones Dust shields 5Q0615311F (L) / 5Q0615312F (R) 2 Required for 340 mm clearance Brake fluid (DOT 4) 1–1.5L ATE Typ 200 recommended InstallationIt's easier to turn the wheels in the direction you're going to work on. Raise the car and remove the wheel Remove the old caliper and disc ( You can leave the old caliber hanging on the line until you have the new one in place.) Install the larger dust shield (or trim the old one to fit) Fit the new 340x 30 mm disc Clean the hub and apply copper grease to prevent rust Bolt the caliper carrier in place Torque spec: 200 Nm + 90° angle Mount the brake pads and caliper on the carrier (DIS)Connect the brake hose Keep it upright or temporarily plug it to avoid leaks Bleed the brakes With a helper or transparent hose in fluid Sequence: RR → LR → RF → LF Check for: Leaks, Firm pedal, Fluid level in reservoir Test drive at low speed Verify pedal feel, brake balance, and straight braking

I used driving at 3-5k and then taking foot off throttle for a few seconds. Then repeating. I did this for about 30 minutes. Nothing happened, so I switched gearbox back from manual to automatic mode. Then about 10 mins later I noticed the orange triangle and engine sign had gone from dashboard.

Hi Luckypants, I finally got around to fitting the mudflaps. Not sure how many pics I'll be able to attach

Almost correct You need to unzip the map update zip, you’ll then see the 2 folders and one file, copy the 2 folders and one file directly onto sd card

It's a plastic part. It is replaceable, or you can fit a sleeve around it.

Are you certain it's actual leather and not a rubbery faux leather?

That's certainly how "Finnegan's Waxoyl" used to work.

It's the low line HBA camera.

A battery in good condition will be 75% charged at 12.4 VDC - agree, the only reliable way to test a battery is by imposing a known load and measuring the voltage drop. OP appears to be chasing a possibly phantom parasitic load, while admitting the battery is 'goosed'

It does now, but was bone dry. I have used a foam cleaning aerosol as the musty smell was intolerable. New cabin filter fitted now too.

The DMF usually starts rattling away before it fails completely and you can get a judder when taking off. If it does fail it can be catastrophic and wreck gearbox etc but if it was done 5 years ago unless the car has done huge mileage per year I doubt it would be going again. Mines on 120,000 with original clutch and no noises from Gbox etc. I may be wrong but I can't see bumpy roads affecting it at all unless it was badly fitted and has become loose but as the sound has gone again I doubt it. I would monitor it and get it checked out by a reputable garage and see how it goes. Get them to check that all the Gbox to engine bolts etc aare tight. Hopefully it was perhaps something wrapped round a drive shaft that has cleared itself.

No need to do that. Once set up with [wireless] CarPlay the car will default to that as a connection next time. If there are multiple phones (like my wife and I) CarPlay connects to the last one used, usually mine, and hers connects via bluetooth.

oh no i agree 100%. SE L is minimum spec as i found se tech seats did my back in a bit. So it will come down to whats out there whether approved or not. Even started considering should i extend search to the hybrid engine (not plug in) to at least get a few extra mpg out.

I think you need to really think about rejecting the car..... If you are having this many doubts then I would just err on the side of caution and reject. You may only have a small pool of vehicles to pick from when it comes to the same spec and colour but you also need to be a bit flexible too to make the most of what vehicles are available nationwide. I got my vRS last year with the options I favoured (Winter Pack+ and Tri-zone climate) I would have also preferred the Canton stereo option and possibly the active suspension system but to find all these options i'd have probably still been looking now.... But then the colour of the car I bought (Race Blue) was always my fourth choice colour after Hyper Green, Metallic Grey & Metallic Orange. You have to start thinking what's most important the options you want or the colour? Then either start looking at cars with similar options in the only colour you want or cars with the options you want but in a choice of maybe 2, 3 or 4 colours. Again like I say if you are having this many questions and doubts at this stage I'd reject as you'll possibly end up just thinking something else is wrong in the future each time you hear a knock or see something new.

That's not entirely truth. MIB1 Bolero and MIB1 Amundsen display have RESOLUTION (not refresh rate - refresh rate is the same) of 400x240 so can't be used with MIB2 units as they have resolution of 800x480. MIB1 Columbus display (5E0919606) has resolution 800x480 so the same as MIB2 AMundsen / Bolero / Columbus so it CAN be used with these units. MIB2.5 Columbus has a resolution of 1024x600 and it works ONLY with display 5E0919606D.

The Vag TDI engines have had some issues with piston rings (at least on the Octavia version) which I guess is quite similar to the superb version. As you have a DPF in a diesel you are unlikely to see smoke from the exhaust if it's burning oil as the DPF will catch it. I would suggest to look for signs of oil just before the DPF or in the exhaust manifold somewhere. Best case your engine is burning it and they'll be no problems. But if there's too much oil to fully burn it'll build up in the DPF and can cause it to crack when it Regens... I have a 2024 TDI 2l 200PS engine in my superb which uses 1L of oil every 7.5k km since new. (Currently at 37k km) My previous Octavia TDI would do 30k km without changing the oil.

Already avoided this thanks to helpful posts on wednesday. I dont know whether ive posted this part of the story yet though. Service manager called on thursday he actually wanted to listen to the issue i was having so i briefly explained brakes and said you can email further questions (which he hasnt) and id more than happy answer any questions. Due to distance they were trying to use the RAC cover to investigate the brakes on their behalf or alternative dealership (which have advised send it back over the phone as its their issue beforehand). Told the dealership the RAC isnt responsible you are and they are not skoda approved. He went quiet at that. The issue is i do like the car but the way in which it was sold, mistakes in the reports and information provided since with lack of clarity and the issue over brakes just means that what else has been missed. It could be minor could be a major fix which would be under warranty but thats not my problem if they did the job properly in the first place. If the car wasnt ready i could of waited a week and was told it would be ready first thing.

That looks like a good replacement, not a bad price either good luck Richard

UK coal production was reduced because it was cheaper to import it. The decision to stop using coal came later . We were still burning 50 million tonnes in 2008 Our World in DataCoal production and imports in the United KingdomCoal production and imports in the United Kingdom, measured in tonnes per year.

I was using genuine parts. The fixing holes were all there but the ones on the inner side were behind a layer of underseal. Both sides had the same number of fittings. At the front of the inner arch liners I needed some extra parts. See my post on the fitting needed for more details, as listed above. Thanks. AG Falco

No, infotainment unit 5Q0035819C is a simplified version of Bolero and it does NOT support CarPlay. It much be replaced, e.g. with 5Q0035840C full Bolero version. I can deliver it in Plug&Play version. You may also need to chnage USB - pls share VIN so I can check. Firmware updates are NOT available from SKODA update portal.

The proposed mine in Cumbria is intended to only produce coke which is still needed for some industrial processes in the UK, as it will be several (many?) years before all those processes can change to no longer need coke (will the alternatives have other environmental impacts though?). If we don't produce coke locally then those companies will need to import it, and the most likely producer is Australia. So we need to balance the impact of producing locally against the impact of shipping coke halfway round the world on ships that are very likely fuelled by the most polluting fossil fuel, heavy oil.

I'm old enough to remember when everyone was outraged about coal mines being closed. Even in Scotland. Of course, that's when the evil Tories were closing the coal mines. Now the Left want the coal mines kept closed, the very thought of the Right opening a coal mine is madness and a threat to global climate. When the likes of Mary Whitehouse was demanding censorship, the Left was screaming blue murder about their free speech. Now it's the Left demanding censorship and the Right defending free speech. I swear these groups take it in turns to push a particular narrative and swap sides every decade or so. 😄

Warrior makes a good point. I spent a lot of time over the BH weekend assuming I had a parasitic drain on our Roomster, but found nothing, except a failed (very recent) battery. To let the car shut down I found that just letting it sit, for around 15-20 minutes, after opening the door for access to cabin fusebox, was enough for the few fuses showing mV to go to zero.

I remember there were a lot of failures on early dry-clutch DSGs, in fact the large number of failures gave DSGs a bad name and people were apprehensive about buying cars with DSGs at the time. I was one of them. Fortunately there were people on hand to tell me that DSGs were actually quite reliable if you got a wet-clutch DSG. So I did. But that was then, this is now. It does seem like there are one or two weak links in the chain of DQ381 reliability, though it's hard to know how each individual vehicle is driven and thus whether some driving styles impact DQ381 reliability more than others. My DQ381 has been faultless, bar the odd senior moment when it takes longer than expected to switch from neutral to drive, but I do drive it with a lot of mechanical sympathy. For me, that means no launch control nonsense, and putting the DSG into neutral every time I come to a halt. That's not just at traffic lights, that's at every junction when I come to a halt. I've had it serviced well before the recommended service event, and hopefully it will continue to work reliably for me. But you never know! 😄

How old is the battery? If you have confirmed that the battery is 'goosed' you are possibly looking in the wrong direction by looking for parasitic draw. How was the battery tested? The overnight terminal voltage drop you are seeing is probably no more than you could expect - especially with a suspect battery.

Which model do you have, how old?

most of the dq381 mechatronic failures seem to be on cars around the 2017/18 year or so if failures are not happening on newer cars, you would think VAG must no about it and replacement parts have been modified. they wont admit it though as no recall and owners are still having to part with there hard earned ££££

Almost a full Moon this evening........

Lovely this afternoon (and stopped off on the way home to watch the sunset)..........

That looks like the one - mine at least! Worth a try at that price? They're V expensive from Skoda.

I've just replaced my coolant reservoir, as it had 'Mit Silikat' on it. I bought a Febi-Bilstein branded reservoir from Parts in Motion for £20 including postage. https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/febi-coolant-expansion-tank-103446-detail I could have bought one from Aliexpress for about £8, but I thought PIM would be a safer bet if I had a problem. I would hazard a guess that the Aliexpress part is probably the same item. My original reservoir was the double-walled version, part number 5Q0121407A, which was made in January 2015, the same as my car. It didn’t look like there was room for the tea bag in the inner chamber, so I’m guessing the ‘silickat’ is in the outer chamber. The coolant was replaced recently when I had the water pump and timing belt replaced, so it should be good for some time.

Cranked the welder up to HOT and smashed this bracket together to transfer the rotational force of the stretcher into the bench, seems to have helped a LOT, now I can use the thing in the vise and rapidly remove it to put the piece into the vise. It's nice being able to bodge stuff till it functions. Got brave and cut a hole Set the welder back to 'subtle' and started stitching, using my air compressor every couple of zaps to cool the panel back down Welds flatted back and zinc primer smashed on to try and keep it safe. The next project that's been waiting patiently since BEFORE we got this truck. Tomorrow I'll hopefully commit to the section of this donor part that I want to use and liberate it from the structure it's trapped in. I have a spot weld drill which should help get it free. I've not forgotten to restore the drain hole, I plan to run some water into the gutter when it's welded into the truck and see exactly where the water pools and drill there.

As far as I know, it's no longer possible to use the eyelashes as daytime running lights. It's no longer a separately programmable light, rather the light coding is embedded in the headlight data set. Adaptations can no longer be made there. This is unfortunately disappointing, because I also liked the eyelashes as daytime running lights.

Many of the benefits are easy to measure, but to provide measurable numbers is beyond my pay grade. Here are my stuff on my personal level: Cheaper energy: 300 kWh of electricity used at just 7p/kWh <= cheaper energy compared to people who didn't adopt electrification. Energy independence There was a powercut due to underground line failure last week. I went off-grid for that day until incident was reported to be fixed, zero disruption to me. If Spain power cut incident happened, I would have zero problem living off-grid for weeks in recent sunshine. And on a broader level: Jobs There will be many job opportunity created by push for net-zero, from energy sector to tech https://www.local.gov.uk/publications/green-jobs-creating-workforce-deliver-net-zero Technology leadership Innovations all areas will enable UK to sell the tech, creating value For example, here is a long list of innovate UK involved sustainable projects: https://iuk-business-connect.org.uk/knowledge-centre/casestudy/?_sft_sector=sustainability Economic activities With innovation, comes economic gains In simple terms, this means GDP growth and money flowing in Health benefits Net zero tech such as BEV and heat pumps mean cleaner air at local level Rest of your post goes into your conspiracy theory. It does not dignify any response. But corporate greed and big oil spreading doubt (via a few individuals) are well documented, worth a read: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merchants_of_Doubt

I was in Portswood Road, trying to turn right by Machine Mart to get onto Thomas Lewis Way, when the engine just cut out (rev counter just dived to 500 rpm, I put my foot down and the engine died - not for the first time), and then the lights changed It left me stranded with cars driving around me beeping horns etc Happy days !!

The one off Thomas Lewis Way? That junction is traffic light controlled last I used it in March. Did others not allow you to join traffic? That would be normal IME. Lots of impatient gits in Southampton.

Follow the money Demand Forecast“Demand for carbon credits could increase by a factor of 15 or more by 2030 and by a factor of up to 100 by 2050. Overall, the market for carbon credits could be worth upward of $50 billion in 2030.” —Mckinsey Report This demand translates into a ~$10 billion–$40 billion market opportunity in 2030, with an ample runway to reach ~$20 billion–$135 billion in 2040.” — BCG Report The demand for quality, nature-based credits is outpacing supply. —EY Net Zero Centre report

Today an engine bay detail.

So now you have Bolero MIB1, with Bluetooth, without DAB, without MOST, without RVC support, part number 5E0035819A, with Media In port and, as you mentioned, fortunately you don't have CANTON sound system. You can install one of four different OEM glove box units: - MIB2 Bolero - MIB2 Amundsen - MIB2 Columbus - MIB2.5 Columbus You also need to replace display unit: - for MIB2 Bolero you can use either 6.5" model number 5E0919605H or 8" model number 5E0919605N - for MIB2 Amundsen and MIB2 Columbus you can use listed above display as well as 6.5" model number 5E0919605J, 8" model number 5E0919606, 8" model number 5E0919605M - for MIB2.5 Columbus the only display unit that works is 5E0919606D Media In interface must be replaced with USB port, either with or without CarPlay support. The question is what is your budget and which of listed below features are "must have": - Video playback from DVD, USB, SD - CD playback - OEM navigation - displaying OEM maps in Virtual Cluster (Active Info Display). All units support SmartLink (Android Auto, Apple CarPlay, MirrorLink), rear view camera, voice command. features that differ them: - MIB2 Bolero - no OEM navigation, no CD/DVD drive, no video playback from SD/USB - MIB2 Amundsen - OEM navigation, no CD/DVD drive, no video playback from SD/USB, support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster) - MIB2 Columbus - OEM navigation, CD/DVD drive, video playback from SD/USB, no support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster) - MIB2.5 Columbus - OEM navigation, CD/DVD drive, video playback from SD/USB, support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster)

Hi @pab567 I'm looking to replace the headunit in my Octavia A7. The VIN is TMBBJKNE8DAOO6909. Fortunately, mine doesn't have a Canton system. I would simply love to upgrade to MIB 2 with the 8" screen. Looking forward to your advise on this.

Still not working for me. :-( I will try again tomorrow. I have an iPhone and the app has been updated a couple of times recently. the car is a 2024 Karoq SE L 1.5 TSI