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Tonight's Strawberry Moon & sunset.......... https://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/news/strawberry-moon-2025-lowest

Sounds more like a failed bush or ball joint or more likely a drop link. Just did my front drop links on my MK2. They looked and felt ok but only when they were removed you could notice a fair bit of play. Doesnt take much play to get a clunk expecially with the condition of roads. Alasdair

it does seem to be an attempt to 'encourage' customers to upgrade to higher specs. I looked at 20205 model year specs and was disappointed that standard items had disappeared. Presently looking at the Kia offering

@domhnall might know more about the batteries and degradation.

No idea what else the sales person could say. They want to sell it. I think that is really pretty poor. Looks like it could need a new battery while still under warranty.

Hi I don't think you need any additional bolts. The brackets are secured using nuts removed from the bonnet fixings. Geoff

With a DSG car the stop/start will sometimes kick in when the car is still rolling to a stop rather than when it is fully at a stop (which took me a while to get used to) Not sure how the stop/start works with a newer gen manual car compared to our Fabia which has it but is a 19 plate where the stop/start only kicks in once the car is stood and in neutral and the clutch released. They may still operate the same way I only question this as there are some improvements/changes to the stop/start technology with newer vehicles as for example on our Fabia once it's kicked in the power steering stops working compared to our Octy where the power steering is still operative when the stop/start has kicked in.

Problem for me was hit and miss if it came on at all. No good in winter for demisting and summer air con. I have heated screen which helped abit with the misting. Hence why I had to replace. Make sure any eBay seller packs well as the same breakers part arrived smashed twice. The impeller leaves the central shaft very quickly during transit ie smashed plastic. for the low outlay £26 it’s worth getting yourself a decent spare ready. I try and ask them to ensure it spins freely and also look for corrosion down the centre shaft looking down into the motor from impeller end.

While this can be switched off by setting the car to private, this also negates the benefit of the breakdown call and other vehicle location requirements. I am very pleased to see that this has been switched off by Skoda.

As I know you will agree the ZF6HP and ZF8HP that the RangeRover uses certainly should be serviced. It's a conventional auto using it's fluid to transmit power in the torque convertor and picking up debris from wear of the clutches and brake bands. And it's easy to build an argument, while JLR and BMW say no schedule the manufacturers ZF do advise servicing. But a very different animal from a DQ200.

I didn't remove any covers so as not to maybe disturb the airbags, I just used a credit card + plastic pry tool to prise them up enough to slip the cables underneath the edges. I couldn't get the join in the cover over the rear seatbelt/window to split enough to get the wire in without crushing it, so I just left it exposed for the bit between the seatbelt and the hatch rubber. It's hardly noticeable and doesn't fowl on the seatbelt or parcel shelf.

Yeah there seems to be a bit of a knack to getting those covers off. I have seen a few YouTube videos and I’ll see how I get on when the car arrives… How did easy did you find removing the A pillar covers or didn’t you bother? I would want the cable install to not affect the air bags. I suppose similarly with the B pillar air bags and the seat belt covers?

Also note: I couldn't remove the triangular cover behind the mirror over the windscreen sensors, but you can slide it down just enough to get a small gap for the cables. I've just tested the Dash cam out properly and all is well except that it take ages to download anything to my mobile, if it actually decides to connect and not stall during the transfer. It seems all Dashcams I've had have had this problem, so I'll keep a spare sdcard in the car to swap with the one in it and view/copy what I need on my PC.

Three dots at top right of your post, click on that for Edit option on the drop down menu from three dots. In that case I'm surprised and wrong again yet again today as I've not noticed anyone say EFB+ other than as a replacement and 1S0 915 105 B number (that only VW seems to have really used) brings up various batteries. I think you could see if the battery 'coding' is correct for charging but if the battery is factory original it should be unless someone has messed it up - or cut your losses and save time and hassle if not money and have a new battery fitted, at least as good as VW use and of course make sure it is 'coded' correctly for peace of mind. I personally always fully charge, to 100%, a new battery before I fit it to the car, if the battery arrives in a good state of charge this shouldn't take too long, a battery might turn up at 12.4v and you could fit it to the car and forget it but I prefer to fit the battery at 100% (possibly 12.7v / 12.8v / 12.9v and know the battery condition when I fitted it was full. The car's computers will reduce it to the 70% / 75% / 80% but it is good to have the battery charged to 100% occasional. Just as one example only, RAC (who I'd never buy a battery from) for "SEL 1.0 115(hp) Triptronic Automatic" Varta 027 N60 Start-Stop EFB Car Battery 12V 60Ah (640 CCA EN) - £157.29 - Home Delivery. You would have to confirm this is correct and will fit - Varta datasheet. - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/Varta%20N60%20Blue%20Dynamic%20EFB%20560%20500%20064%20Data%20Sheet.pdf Tayna "N60 D53 Varta Blue Dynamic EFB Start-Stop Car Battery 12V 60Ah (560500064) (027 EFB)" for delivery but not fitting or 'coding' £118.12 (£100.13 + £7.99 P&P). If you want to you could add 1.0 petrol, SE L (and gearbox type and number of gears) to your profile to show for those that use the drop down 'Author's stats' (down arrow next to three dots) HTH.

None of my DQ200 failures were oil related. The DQ200 has two different oils. The first for gears is basically the same as a manual gearbox. The second for controlling hydraulic functions. Which are you thinking cause the failure modes of the DQ200? Changing the gearoil replaces the oil lubricating the gears. I've not seen any DQ200 failures due to excessive gear or geartrain wear. It's usually clutch packs or mechatronics.

I've lost count 😄 Lets try 2008 Golf 1.6TDi DQ200, No issues. 2010 VW Passat 2.0TDi DQ250 Sold to Family member, now 15 years old and 160k miles, no issues. 2011 Fabia 1.2TSi DQ200, Clutch slip in third year of ownership. Clutch packs replaced under warranty. 2014 Audi S5, DL501, no issue 2014 Octavia 1.6TDi DQ200, Clutch Slip, judder and error codes year 4. Clutch pack, mechatronic and two gear levers replaced. 2016 Yeti 1.2 TSi DQ200, Clutch Slip in year 2, clutch pack replaced. 2016 Yeti 1.2TSi DQ200, Clutch Slip in year 2, handed back with issue to lease company. 2017 Yeti 2.0TDi DQ250, No issues over 6 years. 2017 Fabia 1.0TSi DQ200 DSG, still got this one. Just started to throw error codes and has had microswitches replaced in gear lever. 2023 Karoq 1.5TSi DQ200, only kept in 10 months, no issues. 2024 Superb 2.0TSi DQ381, no issues so far but only 6k miles and 1 year old. So I've not had a single issue with any wet clutch box although fingers crossed on the DQ381 going forward. My record with DQ200's is mixed to say the least.

Pls share VIN and scan with errors inidicated.

I wouldn't take an ACT engined car of mine to somewhere that doesn't seem to be fully up to speed with the extra steps and special tools required.

Oh, that's good. Look to see what it reads after the engine has been running for 5 and 10 minutes, just in case the temperature sensor is giving implausible readings. Also have a look at what bank 1 sensor 2 is doing, measuring block 36 or somewhere round there.

They could well, but they are branded differently. The Ford version is known as the Powershift and is a 6 speed dry clutch I believe. Ford may have an inspection schedule for the oil and could have incorporated a dipstick in their version to allow for this. Perhaps this is what the oil company were referring to. Regardless I would recommend oil changes more frequently than my 180k. DSG oil change frequencies have been done-to-death on this forum and Ootohere's table has been displayed more times than I've won the lottery.

Thanks for replying, I gather the VAG grommets are tough to remove and break easily. I will be ordering a DC02 this afternoon 👍

It's never been my intention to cause any controversy re posts I make. As others have said the information provided by Skoda UK may have a little of the mark re accuracy of content. Could I suggest we call it a draw for common sense and make be drawn a line in the sand.

Nope - the roof lining is quite sturdy, and holds the adapter firmly. Also the rubber surround is very grippy. The rear camera has a 5mm sticky pad holding it to the adapter which also would damp any vibrations...

I won't be going on track just faster road use

You say you have the basic headlamps in your previous post. These "LED Headlights (Standard): The Elroq SE 50 comes standard with LED headlights, which provide efficient and bright illumination." The final paragraph in the image posted by @Steve153 states no adjustment is needed to drive abroad. Its all in your manual if you read it.

Read the last paragraph in the image posted, the bit that "applies to headlights without adaptive functions" which you have.

Oil & filter changed at 55k.

Morning All, It's been a while since I posted, so I thought I would update on the latest state of play with the stop/start issues. After a few weeks of waiting, the car finally went back in last week to have a few things sorted (which to be fair, were sorted out no problems), however, once again, they said they could not find any fault with the battery or stop/start as no errors were being logged. They apparently put it on charge whilst it was in as well (not sure how long they had it on charge, as due to a shortage of staff, they had the car for going on 1 week), upon collection, the stop/start seemed to work perfectly for a few days, until last Friday. On the way home from work, I ended up in stop/start traffic for about 20 mins and after 7/8 interventions of stop/start the normal "power consumption high" message returned and stop/start did not kick in again for the rest of the journey home. Saturday, I headed down Altrincham way (100mile round trip, 95% motorway) and the same "power consumption high" message persisted all through the journey and stop/start never kicked in. Sunday/Monday this week stop/start was intermittently working along side regular "power consumption high" messages, so I stopped off at the local garage, who have always done service/mot on my previous cars for them to do a proper battery test. Attached are the results of the check and as far as I can tell from reading them, what he said and what Dr. Google says (although I take what he says with a pinch of salt generally), although the battery states "good", it is borderline and 1 or 2% lower and the reading would be a flat out Low. This test was performed with a "professional" external battery tester with the battery disconnected from the car after a period of 20-30 minutes parked up. I also managed to get a pic of the full battery label when the battery was disconnected as well should that be more helpful that the last image I posted. All indications are that the battery is the original one. Hopefully with this evidence I may be able to go back to the dealership and force them into changing the battery under the 12 month warranty the car came with (fingers crossed!)

it's 100% the pedal or pedalbox somewhere and not the brakes

@EnterName Re Servicing .That is good advice, and your belief. & as your Auto Specialist might advice. There are plenty DQ200,s running what they left the factory with or what was put in 11 years ago at the Service Campaign. It is clutch pack failures usually, or selector forks. Those 2013-2015 DQ200,s maybe had or not Service Campaign '34H5', that is the over heating / pressure issue, cracks and leaks & accumulator failures that brought about that preventative software update. No oil changes where carried out, even though the issue came from the change of oils from 2012. It is not any official advice that Skoda UK have given, or even Skoda CZ though. If anyone has in writing from the Company then they can share. Stuff received in reply to questions from Skoda UK,s Customer Services provider can be total tosh. Seemingly they ask the Technical department', or maybe it is Google / AI.

Any chance of you posting this letter? (Redact any personal information about your self before posting.)

OK to confirm it's definitely the autohold that's making the noise, not the actual handbrake. Although driving the car without autohold in traffic is interesting! @Ootohere I've only had the car a month, but looking at the service history it's had two brake fluid services, one at 32K and another at 66K. The car is currently on 68K, I can't see any record of new pads or discs, although it has a full Skoda service history so I'm sure they would have been replaced if needed.

This is back to as far as 2014 when we got Service Campaign '34F7' and the synthetic oil changed to mineral FREE. I have asked ever since at any opportunity VW Group & SKODA UK why those that had this done then never got further Oil Changes free gratis from VW Group. Because no Service Regime is what they say.

@super717 What is your reticence in stating which oil company gave this information? If they informed you, it is in the public domain. If you genuinely have a letter from Skoda from Jan 24 stating what became the very purpose of you starting this topic, just take a pic of it and post it. Otherwise, I would suggest all you’ve done, however well intentioned (or not) is create a click bait thread.

Hi, Only feasible on MY18 and onwards: 03-Brakes > Security access : 11966 > Adaptation 10 Select channel "IDE05055-Hydraulic brake assistant" Set new value to "Early" instead of " Normal" as factory setting. Then tick "soft reset" and save. Done. Enjoy at next stop sign or traffic lights. 😉

I did the same 2 times. My car is very infrequently used now and I think the lack of use caused the motor to keep stopping. Got a used unit with exactly same part numbers or revision F from a VW Touran and it’s been working fine albeit I think the climate has one cold temperature freezing. There is a fault logged I need to review.

wow... people can get pretty hot under the collar while offering help around the place cant they? i think everybody would benefit from refreshing their knowledge of the posting guidelines - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/guidelines If you read it, remember mods can bin posts that serve noone or just seem to be getting personal in tone.. and if people keep pushing those buttons theres member strikes and timeouts that can be applied. disagreements happen, but it doesnt need to lead to name calling and stuff. mods are busy enough keeping the place tidy and functioing to have start watching what people are saying to each other.

@Gammyleg exactly, it's not possible. FWIW, I like to think that anyone TVS Engineering is worth mentioning the word DSG to. Given that it is a dry clutch gearbox, I would think changing the oil around 80k-100k miles would seem sensible, depending on use. That's a minimum of twice a wet clutch box interval, which seems reasonable. I'm just a bit confused at why OP is taking offence at someone asking for the source of their information, whilst also thinking you can check the oil level on a DSG gearbox. There's absolutely nothing wrong with posting stuff like this @super717, however I think it's important to make sure the information is correct/reputable. These forums are a wealth of information, but I remember a time when I would have taken a post like this as gospel - so it's important things are correct, or at least checked. I don't think @Ootohere was asking anything aside from where you got the 20k service information, which BTW, you still haven't given?

'Central Government', Westminster / UK Government, so this is England once again. The place that needs the billions spending on Nuclear so that they do not have anything like happened in Spain. The Government in Scotland might well miss targets and have to modify targets, maybe on their emissions and government and local authority vehicles. That would be them, and not the Central Government though.

Despite all the pressures being brought to bear on people switching over to electric vehicles both for the private and also the corporate markets, the government once again clearly demonstrating that there is a two tier system in place, one for us and another for them. Instead of leading from the front, which would be the right way to go (don't ask others to do what you are not/cannot do yourself), they have fallen way behind their own targets for the 7,116 cars and vans in their own fleets. So much for their net-zero policy, what next? Government fails to meet its own EV fleet targets despite pressuring drivers to switch | Regit

That’s a great tip! I have a two camera setup waiting ready for when the new Elroq arrives and getting through the tailgate on any car is always a PIA… Do you get any vibrations with the rear camera mounted this way?

It's not so much the message you're giving, but more where that message is from. The DQ200 is sealed for life, but it isn't. As @Ootohere has said, both the box and MCU are serviceable. Without wishing to make one of the sweeping statements I advocate against, I would agree that inspecting the oil on a DQ200 every 20,000 miles is absolute rubbish. The reason these boxes don't 'need' a fluid change is because, unlike the wet clutch boxes, these have a dry clutch pack. They aren't submerged in the oil, so there isn't anything getting in the oil, so there's nothing really to inspect. The recommendation for all wet clutch DSG boxes is a fluid (and filter, cough) change every 40k miles, with the DQ381 being at 80k (although most, including myself, choose to do it at 40k). I find it hard to believe that anyone would suggest checking a DQ200 at half the interval for a DQ500! As above, the interval for Haldex systems (be it AWD, LSD, etc) is 20-30k depending on the application, and they're a totally different ball game. There is no recommended interval for DQ200 boxes. If you have an issue with it, do the service. If it's working and below 100k ish, leave it alone - there's nothing to be gained.

Big day planned for tomorrow. Refurbed injectors and a much lower-mileage high-pressure fuel pump getting swapped in, I hope. Also the cam follower for the HPFP, unless the original looks much better than expected for nigh-on 160k miles. The company that cleaned and tested the replacement injectors very helpfully also changed the PTFE seals and the o-rings at the top, so should be reasonably idiot-proof to fit. 🙂 Anyone swapped out these items? HPFP has to come off to get injector rail out, so looked into that too, and picked up a far lower mileage one from ebay, for not a lot of money. Apparently the cam follower can get worn to the point of perforating, so I picked up a Febi one of those for not much over £20 via amazon.

Shame to hear that. Doesn't seem like mechanics want to do any problem solving anymore. Just a good old, replace the whole engine. Oil light came on again after heading back from the inlaws on a 110 mile journey Stopped at a service station and noticed some new oil marks on the oil pcv valve, I made sure I wiped it clean before I set off and intentionally did not top up the oil. So im going to maybe investigate the pcv valve a little further. Will take a pic and post later

Cheers Travs, it was bizarre but we got there in the end and I have a bit more room in the garage!

Final look

Due to the central lock drivers door problem and replacemebt we reneved butil sounddeadening layer

Also we did sound proff rear reg plate inox holder with 6mm sound deadening sponge

I've got one on my 245. Sounds nice on startup and tickover. Don't get any drone at all.

You have to turn off the cruise control. It is only showing up if it is off from the blinkers stick.