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Thanks again for this. Autohaus Edinburgh is out at Loanhead which is impossible for me to get to via public transport (from Portobello), and waiting for repairs etc is a non-starter. There are a couple of well-recommended more local garages, I go to one which has kept my neighbours' Octavia Mk 2 on the road for twelve years. I'll tell them what Skoda have now said re cambelt changes, and ask them to have a good look. There's definitely a coolant leak and they say it's the pump. I agree with you about the main dealers! Kate

Got the Cooper E and had about a week now. Insurance for the 181 hp Mini cheaper than the 145hp Clio !! 0 to 60 in 7 seconds flat. Charged to 80%, as recommended, last night after lad had done his commute from Worcester to Gloucester and back. 80 % charge showed 134 miles range, we have not done a reset yet, don't know how to bur using the YouTube videos as guides. Yet to drive this British Eacing Green Cooper Exclusive. The Head up Display popping up out of the Dashboard is cool. Guy across the road, big BMW and performance car guy, M3,4 ,5, recent Maycan etc now has BNW iX3 think it is. BMW guys, same garage as Mini of course, said OK to charge to 90% regularly. Will do more research. I thought the smaller batteried Mini might use LFP chemistry like Renaukt do in there 40 kwh R5 but no it is all NMC apparently. Pleased so far. Tell my lad he can and should use ECO as unlike Renault one is not spreed limited to indicated 65 like in the Zoe or 72 the in the Scenic. Maxxis tyres OK but not the best. Ride not too hard but a little under damped I would say.

The Haynes digital manual is complete rubbish, I bought it when I first got my Yeti but immediately complained about the lack of any worthwhile or useful content and got a refund. The allowed me to retain access to it after the refund but although it has been built on it's still worthless IMO, you'll find far more info in places like this and Youtube. I don't think it comes with an OBD11, where have you got that idea from? Yes, there are lot's of things you can do and change with one and, unlike the Haynes manual, well worth purchasing.

Good morning, welcome to the forum. I'd first suggest a full test of battery condition, a failing battery can often cause multiple, seemingly random DTCs.

New Ami quadricycle due out soon I gather. Modern Hero guy, Scottish voice but Gloucester based bought another Ami and got some 40% off RRP I gather and they were 2 or 3 year old models out of long term storage. Not really a car like the Spring he also had recently and reminds me of the 30 mph limited Mopeds, quite dangerous being limited to 30 mph. With EVs dropping in price as competition intensifies and the multi thousand pound EV subsidy deal kicks in it must be strange times for EV dealers like MH. I watch his videos and wish him the best but the Ami mk 1 had been a bit of a lemon so hopefully Mk 2 is better. Have colleagues in London without driving licence that it might siut if it is better.

Hi, I just bought a new Skoda Superb and joined this forum to learn more about the brand and to search for some related problems that i am facing with it. Regards!

I’ve railed endlessly about my M4 problems. The disastrous First Edition which I returned, Deaf and blind Skoda UK, the better but still flawed 2021 model that replaced it. Emissions sensors problems, random error messages which come and go, the intermittent gear selector lever error message which crops up regularly now. The nanny state compulsory ‘driver aids’, dangerous distraction of a touch screen. I’ve sold it and rolled back to a Mk 3. Best wishes and good luck to all Mk 4 owners.

If you consider that the fuel in the tank sloshes around a lot while driving & when stationary it does not know if the car is tipped or inclined causing the level to change compared with what is really there you can understand that when adding a small amount of fuel the car will take an average reading of some time before deciding how much fuel is there. There will be a threshold like 20% over which is will register more quickly a refill amount. In this situation, you know you've added 6l of fuel so you can drive it until the system is able to catch-up. Especially in a petrol car, it won't stop if there is really fuel in the tank even if the distance to empty says 0 miles

I just updated mine. It took them 2 days to install it and test it. Considering the issues I had before, this is something I had to do no matter what. So far, everything looks good. I will report again in a month.

Sent in PM

Just thought I'd mention that while going through the above threads I got the impression that many problems are solved by just doing a factory reset from the Settings menu in the infotainment. I did a factory reset a few days ago (it had been several months since I last did a factory reset) and almost immediately after doing so, an update appeared OTA (yes, it could just have been a coincidence but what if it wasn't?). I don't know if the update is a System Update or a minor update since the information provided about the update is limited. No id related to the update is mentioned f.eks. It was not proceeded by a question whether I wish to download the update or not (which I have read is the first question asked related to a System Update, since it usually is quite large). The first question asked in this case was whether I wish to install the update or not (like when it is a minor update) and after I selected "Update", the status message shown in the infotainment translated to english is something like "Update of software in progress" or "Updating software". That same message is still being shown now several days later, i.e. I have not yet received a message saying that the update is completed. I'll keep waiting until it either is completed or I have had enough and do another factory reset. Seems like Skoda/VAG are making changes from time to time so it might be a good first step to try a factory reset if you haven't done one in awhile and see if that triggers something which hopefully enables System Updates OTA.

I sent you dwonilk link for MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 in PM.

now i trying with 5Q0 411 105 HD front 3Q0 511 115 T rear because this is factory calculating. Next week report and pict. ducumentation

Hi! Glad you enjoyed Portugal. :) I live 1h from Póvoa de Varzim. Regards

Matrix lights are LED and the light beam adjusts and blanks out cars approaching and cars in front and in my opinion are great and 100 times better than old xenon lights.

Did some digging and the following members have older cars AND are saying that they have received System Updates OTA: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522574-update-to-version-1969/ @TWB 1985 OTA, 5E3035816D H56, Octavia MKIV SE L 2.0 TDI Estate 2021 @Jip 1985 OTA, 5E3035816D H56, Octavia MKIV petrol 2021 (seems like Jip first received OAA2 (update of OCU, which might be the same update @spcdust has mentioned several times related to the fix of SOS,POP) before System Updates of OTA started working) @vran22 1985 OTA, 5E3035816J H58, mk4 2022 @RobL50 1985 OTA, H56, Octavia IV PHEV 2021 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/527653-new-software-1985/ @cerz 1985 OTA, Octavia G-TEC 1.5 2022 @Davva 1985 OTA, 5E3035816H H56, Octavia Mk IV Estate SE-L 2.0 diesel 2021

Boa Tarde! I was only in Portugal (Póvoa de Varzim) last week, trying to not be an annoying tourist 🤣 Lovely place, great food.. people were friendly. So… Bem vindo!

Hi, Sorry to see anybody leaving, there is a sub forum in the site support to request account closing and deletion if you want that done. But if you think you may be back, just leave the account sit dormant… you’ll be back… they always come back…. 🤣

Welcome to Briskoda @LCruiserPT 👍

Hello from Spain. I have acquired a Skoda Octavia combi RS 2021 TSI and I have many to read and learn about this model. Thanks for this forum It helps me a lot.

Much more likely to be oil cooler.

'For now'? Does that mean you'll be getting another Skoda? No need to delete your account but that's entirely up to you. I'll report your post so a mod/ admin see it and they can go from there. Take care

No joy unfortunately. Regularly goes back to a flashing green light and car says android auto connect as been broken. It's flawless using the same wire and same port direct to the phone. I think the device must be faulty

August 2026, 54 weeks @ £77.15 (Goes up in April.) £4.166. @wyx087 I do not want a New Car & certainly not a New EV. I want a pre 2024 MINI, Oxford built if an Electric. I do not want any new legislation stuff. Leather Seats as i have & sun roof, the most comfortable and correct position of any pedals and steering wheel i have ever had or driven. Not cloth and not Alcantara & no JCW suspension. Anything from 2021-203 really is OK control / screen wise . No piano black plastic exterior or interior. If i did really like an Abarth 600-e it would maybe make the annoying stuff bearable. What ever i get does have to have buttons to operate stuff and not just a screen and a few token buttons. & easy off Lane Keep assist and Speed Limit warnings.

My sister uses a garage local to you and has done for years, but i do not know which. All the best, let them lead you.

I can confirm that your CHPA engine is EA211 type and is definitely fitted with a cambelt.

Give me 5 minutes, I'll look that up.

Thank you. On the V5 doc the engine number is this: CHPA212483 Does that help? Kate

This is a good page to decode fault codes: https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes It might help some members on here if you post the engine code. You can find it on a sticker around the spare wheel area

Who does the call button in the car call? Skoda Roadside Assistance, 999, somebody else? If you call your breakdown provider you know who you're talking to and that you already have a contract with them for roadside repair/recovery.

You'll have to ask them that! What I know is that, having owned a 1.4TSI Octavia 3 and a 1.8TSI Octavia 3, the 1.4/1.5 is an EA211 engine and has a timing BELT and the 1.8/2.0 is an EA888 engine and has a timing CHAIN.

Have a google of those, you'll probably find a few results in this forum amongst other places. Definitely electrical, not to do with thermostat. Coolant pump B seems to be the item involved, but wiring/connections to it may well be the issue rather than the pump itself. I also seem to remember that there can be confusion about identifying the correct pump, as there may be more than one.

Won't be the first time a main dealer has given incorrect advice.

Are you 100% sure you have a 1.4TSI? IF you do have a 1.4TSI (petrol) then Skoda Dartford are WRONG! The EA211 engine (1.4TSI and 1.5TSI) all have a timing BELT, and (for information) the water pump and timing belt are on opposite ends of the engine so they do NOT need the water pump replacing when the timing belt is replaced.

I use a more direct link but for that age of car it's the more modern (less good) version you have found. It maybe that there was a shorter paper version that came with the car when it was new but you'd be best finding out if this is the case with other owners in the relevant Octavia (Mk 3 or Mk4) forum. The books aren't always the best written (like my posts) and VW hold back some information other manufacturers give freely but I promote the reading and referring to them to avoid unnecessary visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians that can be time, hassle and expense. Hence I have the direct link to hand. VWŠkoda manuals. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models 'Škoda Octavia' forums. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ HTH.

Hello, 1/ Yes 2/ Yes 3/ 5E3035816F / H56 / 1985 Updates 1810 > 1941 > 1985 done with the precious advices from the forum.

Yes, you can turn off the HUD through the infotainment screen. You can also adjust the brightness and the display position on the windshield (about 2cm U,D,L,R) and some limited options on what info is displayed. You can also change the display colour to blue (normally white) so it stands out in snowy conditions.

I would strongly advise against using lighting apps. For example, Seat programs the light channels differently than Skoda. Enough users have destroyed their cars with this Apps

I don't think any model comes as standard with mud flaps. As for the underbody stuff, that might come with a scout model if they did one but why a sportline?

It’s the reviews I pay attention to. Any machine (Hunter or other) is only as good as the bloke that’s using it!

Could be as simple as a crank sensor. Get it scanned for fault codes as I am sure there will be some stored if the EML light was on and post them here. Alasdair

Maybe I panicked a little too quickly. Later I sat in the car in peace and decided to try the other options, starting from the last (Option 22) to the first. Most of these options seem really better than the other. You can definitely hear the difference from one to the other. Most of these options have much better rear speakers than the factory setting . I tried options from 22 to 12 and I would say that only options 14, 20 and 21 are worse than the factory. None of these settings in VCtool give back the "Sound focus" setting option, but since I am satisfied with the sound of certain options, I don't really miss it. As far as I understand, "Sound focus" only gives a different "delay" to the speakers depending on setting but so far I have been most satisfied with the "All" option even on the stock option. My plan is to try all the remaining options, but the problem now is how to decide which one to stick with?

The sender unit still has a float, but it's not linked directly to the dial. That's the case for probably most cars made in the last 20 years.

Thin coated gardening wire or strimmer cable. It does block up from time to time.

Mine was blocked, managed to clear it by poking gently with a cocktail stick.

Suspension ordered and arrived waiting to be booked in. Went with Bilstein B16 Damptronic adjustable coilovers as it was cheaper than what I could find getting a set of B6s and Eibach springs. They lower 30mm-50mm (current arch gap looks to be c.60mm so halving that will be more than enough) so got to research top mounts (might as well replace them) but I think @MartiniB has some comprehensive ideas around that. Superb bearings and Arteon Top Mounts look to be the ones...

They tend to just dangle down behind the plastic arch liner. Ought to be pretty easy to remove and unblock. I'd be having a go in situ with a bit of earth wire stripped out from some thickish twin and earth house wiring cable, or a straightened out wire coat hanger.

Hello , I brought a Kodiaq MY23 from GCC and reimported it to North Africa [ both have RW firmwares ] , Recently I've activated the NAV FEC/Swap and the navigation is now shown on the screen but of course it show the GCC maps , will applying the the North Africa map update from portal replaces the GCC maps OR there are long coding required to make it work ? thanks in advance !

I do read what you've written! Yes - quite right - "... it just senses movement". And to do that it must sense that a wheel(s) is revolving you'd therefore agree, as only such a sensor could tell it it's moving. (I suppose its GPS could but hardly likely.) In fact it has to travel a distance, if short, for those sensor(s) to register a suitable number of pulses to send to the CPU - so there will definitely be a minimum distance involved. And even more to the point, it's highly likely using the speedometer's sensor, wherever that gets its signal from, because it says in the manual "The Downhill Drive Support is available in the speed range of 2 km/h up to 30 km/h." So if knew which sensor the speedo used; how many pulses were supplied per wheel revolution, or prop shaft rev, or whatever that sensor is sensing; how many pulses the CPU was programmed to require before it calculated a speed; I could extrapolate from that, knowing the circumference of my M+S tyres, how far the car needed to to go for the hill descent to turn on or off. Which would equate to wheel revolutions. Yes? Obviously the inclinometer (or possibly just a pair of tilt switches?) will need to register that it's over its pre-determined angle and the hill descent needs to be used. Incidentally the manual says "... the downhill gradient is at least 10%", so, to correct you again when you said above "no-one knows what angle is needed", there is a published angle even though my car seems nearer 7.5º which converts to a 12.5% slope. All of which actually answers my original question which was: why, when I come to a halt, is the hill descent system still pressing the pads against the discs. The answer being that it hasn't had enough distance to re-calculate that it's no longer (movement+inclinometer) on a slope and can switch itself off. So I've answered my own question which I now wish I hadn't asked in the first place. And I now know that the easiest way to reset the hill descent system when I've stopped is to switch off, switch back on, count to three, and switch off again. Voilà.

How about BRAKES ? Look what I am preparing