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Manuals for Skoda Octavia 4 : Avalabile for 3 days https://we.tl/t-TID7E3Cpca?utm_campaign=TRN_TDL_05&utm_source=sendgrid&utm_medium=email&trk=TRN_TDL_05

What I was saying is that the shortfall from loss of taxes on ICE vehicles, such as that from fuel, should be clawed back in a way that includes EVs and thier use. I'm not concerned about how, and some of your suggestions are good ones, but it needs to be equitable and the shortfall should not be clawed back by yet another blanket tax on everyone, such as an increase in VAT, or by yet another tax, or increased taxes, on ICE vehicles only. Pay per mile is probably fair with a reduced fuel tax as it reflects total usage.

An info dump that may help: From Mr Google's AI but makes sense on read through. Note use of chassis number for insurance. "Yes, you are permitted to drive an unregistered vehicle to and from a pre-booked Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) test, provided the vehicle is insured for the journey and you carry proof of the appointment. You don't need a MOT for this journey, but the vehicle must only be used for this purpose and for any necessary trips to a garage for remedial work following a failed test. What you need to do: Get insurance: Ensure you have specific insurance cover for the journey to and from the IVA test centre, which can often be arranged using the vehicle's chassis number. Book the IVA test: You must have a pre-booked IVA test appointment. Keep proof of the appointment: Carry a copy of your test appointment with you in case you are stopped by the police. Travel directly to and from the test: The legal permission to drive the unregistered vehicle only extends to the journey to the test center and back to your home, or directly to a garage for repairs after a failure. No MOT required for the journey: You do not need a valid MOT certificate for this specific journey to the IVA test. Also might be worth a butcher's at kit car fora as builders will have to deal with similar circumstances.

Try Adrian Flux https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/ or Chris Knott https://www.chrisknott.co.uk/ Mention you found them on Briskoda as they're site sponsors so hopefully they can help you out

I've heard of a goose berry bush before, but a tree!

My takeaway from the video was that many EV can go 300 miles all day every day without needing to stop and re-energise. Whilst the similar performing (3.3s), more expensive (£122k) fossil car have to stop and refuel every other day. (300 miles a day) Also, save people 1 hour: Another point missed by carwow is things like this: The Tesla (and any other vehicle after paying a £10 monthly sub) at superchargers would have cost £30 to recharge, 40p/kWh, which translates to 9.16p/mile.

Isn't the running costs that you keep saying are so much higher for an ICE enough of a 'stick' already?

What I want to know is where will be the "stick" (tax) for emissions from burning of hydrocarbon? The per-mile idea works (not withstanding rural vs urban differences) as long as all vehicle receive the same treatment. We should see fossil fuel duty reduced but remain an element at the pumps to remind people to STOP BURNING STUFF.

Hopefully any loss in petrocarbon taxes will be recouped through EV usage taxes or similar for equity and not through another stealth tax on us all

I don't think you can beat a steam train in the British countryside....... LNER A2 Pacific "Blue Peter" passing through Edale in the Hope Valley on it's way to York this morning.

Sorry no idea what it would cost. I do all my own mechanics so a bit out of touch re costs but if its a valve stem seal then I assume labour charge will be more than parts. If its a bad piston ring then thats another ballgame. Probably cheaper sourcing a second hand low mileage engine as original would have to be removed and stripped down and rebuilt. Had a broken valve spring years ago and my local goto garage managed to repair it without head removal. If its the stem seals then hopefully they have a special tool that can compress valves in situ and repair. In my casemy local mechanic friend fed soft string through spark plug hole then turned engine over by hand to carefully jam valves so he could compress spring and remove broken one. Good luck and hopefully its something cheap and simple. It might be worth getting them to try and diagnose the problem first. Tell them if its going to cost a fortune to call you first before going ahead with repair.

I’m pretty sure you can get @ChrisKnottIns into a thread by shouting their name 🤣

The last couple of years, the weather in WA has been getting unbearable it is getting too hot over there got a taste of the cold when we came back, and I do admit it was a shock to the system

Alright then, we have a winner! Apperantly the camsaft adjust magnet was broken. There is two of them and the car repair shop have changed 1 today and the other will be changed tomorrow. Thank you for helping me with this problem and i hope this will help someone in the future 😊

The online forms often have a 'checkbox' for imported vehicles - this might get you past the rego issue.

Ah, I see from your profile you were in WA. Welcome back, you're going to find the temperature a bit of a shock.

Basically you can take the old battery out and put a new one in and off you go, but the car will still believe it’s a degraded battery and not charge fully or something like that. If you have an AGM battery type now and put in a new Varta as an example it’ll be 70ah instead of 68ah, so that needs changing as well as the serial number. It can be done using vcds, obd11 etc etc VCDS isn’t cheap but imo the best diagnostic tool, as our cars are getting older it made sense to get to invest in vcds as garages charge a fortune just to check

I recently updated the firmware of my Superb MY17 from version 0942 to 1433, and created a guide for anyone else who would b interested in going down this path. Firmware Update Guide v1.0.pdf

Not a sponsored post, just thought I'd share a purchase with you. I recently replaced my daytime running light (DRL) bulbs with these LEDs - Auxito 1156 White P21W LED Bulbs (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126645526984). Swap was fairly simple. Light units accessed very easily using advice on this forum, and the bulbs were a straight swap. Unless it was sheer luck and I got them right the first time round, they don't appear to be polarity sensitive either (although obviously if you're getting them, test they work before putting the units back in!) Bright without being too blinding, making the car a bit more obvious when the headlights aren't on. And being LED they have a more complementary colour than the standard warm filament bulbs. I'll keep an eye on the bulb life and update this post if required.

Without disclosing my travelling arrangements and job locations, I'm doing a job in the near future where an EV would be a nightmare for charging and distances covered. I do work rather long hours, though. Got a 17-18 hour day coming up shortly, for instance (including around 250 miles travelling - not at eco speeds). I'd need 100% charge for some of the days I work I'm sure and as I've shared cars with a colleague who drives a Taycan (big battery model) recharging can be a pain, even though it is a very fast charger, at least at first. Range is an issue. Although to be fair, so is reliability as it's been on the back of a low loader at least 3 times that I know of and back to Porsche a few times more. Beautifully built though Not sure if the Audi variants of this battery and engine combo are as unreliable? I assume the tech is shared?

Usually when there is a gearbox fault going into limp mode, there is an error message that states it, at least it did on my MY2018

It always amazes me how Cormorants, with their webbed feet, perch in trees. There is a tree at Cholton Water Park where loads of them perch of an evening. It's a great sight, but just feels a bit wrong

VED brings in around £8bn. Fuel duty brings in over £24bn, also factor in VAT on fuel. VED would have to go up considerably to balance the books.

If you can, make a close inspection of the wiring loom connecting the rear hatch/trunk lid to the body - a fairly common fault is for the wiring to break where it flexes. The battery won't be the cause of any power surges - if that is the problem, it would be more likely to be a faulty voltage regulator on the alternator - however, on reflection, a faulty battery could allow more DC electrical ripple (noise) into the vehicles system, although this shouldn't really affect standard filament lamps.

Pay by the mile appears to be the best option.

Hi and welcome to Briskoda @Georgx 👍

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/632/8/877/877010 You're right, they don't seem to be around anywhere. Might be worth looking at breakeryard.com or breakerlink.com if you haven't already.

typical, make factory reset

It could also be a leaking valve stem seal. Think you need to do a leak down test to check but that may not pick up a bad stem seal as the valves are closed. From memory blue smoke only at start up from cold after sitting for a good while may point to a failed stem seal. Blue smoke while driving after warm up is usually worn piston rings. Alasdair

My first thought on reading the topic title was 'it (the car) won't like the weather' ....... Lol. I got an invite to Viveash WA by a customer of mine about ten years ago. Regretting not going ???? ...... maybe.

Having spent 40 years in the electronics industry, I think it is eminently sensible not to keep applying updates (unless a really obscure bug is found that would merit a recall). The only reason computers get updated so often is that they have to interface with an ever changing world full of hackers and multiple commercial concerns looking for that edge. The car is a completely enclosed system.

thanks, I have a month before the IVA test, so I will keep looking into it. I am going to have to phone around, as every online company asks for a registration number

I am trying to register it at the moment, but I have to get an IVA test done, and the test centre is 60 miles from my home. The testing centre tells me it's not possible to have the car there overnight, and arranging a tow for a specific time is not easy, so I just thought I would try to insure it and drive it as I need to get insurance anyway. I think you are correct, I might have to get registration first

Good morning Jim, welcome to the forum. Have you tried registering it first? Is this an Antipodean or North American import?

You might have to go into vehicle settings and in the brakes section toggle Auto Hold on. My Superb keeps turning this function off and I have to reset it. If anyone knows how to stop this happening I'd love to know.

Great tip, thank you🙏

High level and normal brake lights are generally all wired in parallel, so these symptoms suggest that you may not have fitted the correct bulb type (or you changed the wrong bulbs). Correct type per location is often marked on the bulb holder assembly.

that lite version is very old, last update was in 2018. use normal torque pro, i think 3$.

This is normaly by a new batterie. If The SoC&SoH ist by 80% the BMS say Stop To the Generator. If The Car is Sailing, you have the "Fake" recuperation

While I don't have standard Wireless Carplay or Android Auto in mine, I use a 3rd party adapter, namely Carlinkit 4.0. Out of all the VAG cars that I used with wireless connection (hire or company), the connection was hit and miss. Sometimes working for weeks, then failing multiple times in one journey. With this specific adapter, Android Auto is working most of the time, a quick unplug-replug would solve any issues, Carplay works almost every time. It Carplay framework to get Android Auto working, so even if you use an Android phone, it would show up as Carplay on the car. I don't think it's anything to do with your specific unit, it's just the way the connection works. On my commute, there's a specific bridge that I cross, the music skips every time when I drive over it, Android Auto or Carplay, no matter what but only on wireless.

Activation of the Mode button on the Skoda steering wheel Requirements: Gateway 3Q0 Drive Modes KLR module update the FPA dataset like for any VW R, configure the Voice button to Mode via Lin module and everything works.

I'm just sulking for a bit, I will get back to it. Weather's also traaaasshhhhh so there's not much to do.

Doubt a compression issue would be as intermittent as described. I'd think fuel pressure or loose /broken wire connection on something or dirt in crank angle sensor or something like that

Probably the same types that go, Oooh, when are you getting married then ..... just cos you've been together for what they deem to be too long to not get married. You may not have even thought of marriage ..... Or Oooh, when are you having children ...... just cos there's nothing going on in their own lives they put pressure on others to give themselves something to talk about ...... 'Peer Pressure' .......... I hate it

Do you have children? if they could clean chimneys surely replacing a lightbulb is an improvement in their conditions😀

@pinkpanther it's a shame that the Avro Vulcan wasn't able to be used, love that plane.

A few from Waddington earlier this morning (Cobra Warrior)..........

Pixel phone on Astromode ✨ Would ideally need to head out somewhere with less ambient light but not a bad effort from the back garden (balanced on a jar 😁).................

Not managed to get out with the camera as we’ve been working on the last room to renovate. Finished yesterday.

Well here's what happened FWIW. Motorway valued it around £15,000 Autotrader around £14,500 I decided to stick an ad on Autotrader and see what happened. Before the offer posts they offer the chance to sell it via their 'Dealer Auction' service where it goes out to dealers in an online auction for a couple of days. As it's free I thought I might as well give it a go. Once it finished I got a phone call to discuss the results. Highest offer was about £13,700 which I wasn't happy with. They asked a couple of questions and then phoned back later and said the dealer said he would go up to £13,850 on the basis that I had the parcel shelf (it was missing in my photos). I rejected this too. They tried to put the frighteners on me saying it takes on average of 30 days to sell the car privately and I would have teams of boy racers coming round to floor the GTI. I put it on Autotrader as a standard ad at £14,750. Later the same day I had a call from BigWantsYourCar saying they could offer the full asking price. I sent them a few extra pictures highlighting any damage (few scratches and a couple of the alloys kerbed slightly) but they maintained the price. Dropped it round at the nearest site to me (they also offer free home collection). A chap came out and spent probably 15-20 minutes looking over the car including a short drive around the car park. The moment of truth arrived - I had been expecting at least some kind of attempt to try and knock me down on price but he simply came in and said he was happy with it. He then took the service documents, V5 etc and came back a few minutes later saying I should have an email from them which I did. Entered my bank details and a few seconds later the money was in the account! Overall very happy with the way it all went - very hassle free and not trying to negotiate on the price was a big plus! I might have managed to get slightly more for it from a private seller but selling to a dealer was way less hassle as well as less risky. For anyone who's thinking of selling a car I would definitely give them a go. Oh and WBAC's offer was £2,000 less than I got (and before they try and beat you down too...)