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there is nothing new in requiring charge points and cabling in covered car parks - schemes I have worked on for a number of years back to 2021 have included MSCPs with provision of active and passive charge points... we've also been including similar arrangements for ebikes.

Maybe this https://highways-news.com/westminster-mps-lose-ev-charging-points/#:~:text=Charging%20points%20in%20New%20Palace%20Yard's%20underground,*%20**Availability%20of%20adequate%20infrastructure%20and%20power** AI response to the query

I am just glad that the "Oh yes they did" "Oh no they didn't" pantomime can come to an end.

Based on the source referenced in that article, it was removed “on health and safety grounds following a review by the Safety and Fire teams” https://order-order.com/2025/04/30/parliament-scraps-electric-car-charging-points/ I’ve no idea if building is grade listed or there’s access limitation in case of fire. But those seem like valid reasons. Residential covered car parks getting more charge points seems like the right thing to do, after risk assessments. I wonder if they are also restricting Range Rover diesels from underground car parks? 🤣 Those diesels certainly seem to have a habit of destroying car parks.

After 3.5 wonderful years with my Golf R Estate, I've given up the car allowance and ordered a new Enyaq Sportline Company Car. The Golf is fantastic, but I couldn't live with the 42% deductions on the car allowance, the low-20s MPG (sometimes sub 20 in traffic) the 99 ron fuel, the £900 a year insurance cost etc etc etc. It's coming in Jan, it's Meteor Grey, I wanted Racing Blue, but my allowance just wouldn't stretch that far, otherwise standard facelift Sportline so I'm delighted it comes with Canton, heating wheel and a couple of other things I wasn't expecting. Haven't even driven one, I've sat in one in the showroom, but Skoda Cardiff didn't seem to want to talk to me despite me kicking the tyres for 20 mins. I did buy my Superb from them, but that was a good few years ago. I'm expecting a Superb like experience, but quieter, less engaging (somehow) but mostly, once I've got a home charger installed and switch tariffs I'd like to stop having to spend £300+ a month on fuel. All told, it's going to save me £500 a month, at least until they change their mind on tax rules etc.

Google answers the question asked related to how the question is asked. It is not possible for the public to park in an underground car park at Westminster. Hence two answers to what people think is the same question

@Graham Butcher Fantastic. But back after you first posted a few years back you repeated what you posted, but could not find the article. Now you have had your Weetabix and you have Google at your finger tip. Amazing.

Oh doubter, I think you will find that I actually posted the link to the UK government removing charging from their HOP underground car park, anyway a quick search on Google revealed these snippets of golden nuggets. You know, I'm beginning to think that the MacMaster has it right about some of the EV owners! Not Zero! Parliament scraps its own EV chargers due to 'health and safety' | This is Money Electric vehicle (EV) charging points in the New Palace Yard car park at the Houses of Parliament have been removed for health and safety reasons, following a review by safety and fire teams. The decision was made because of concerns about potential fire risks and the inability for EVs to be charged overnight. Four charging points in Speaker's Court are still available but require a special charging card. Reason for removal: Safety and fire teams reviewed the charging points and determined they posed a health and safety risk. A key concern was that EVs could not be left to charge overnight, reports Safer Highways. Where they were removed: The chargers were removed from the underground car park in New Palace Yard. What remains: A limited number of charging points remain in Speaker's Court, but these are only accessible to those who have a charging card obtained from the Speaker's Office. Future plans: The House of Commons has stated its intention to increase charging capacity in the long term, but future provision will depend on the latest EV and fire safety guidance and the availability of infrastructure. There is somewhere a Hansard document also to this effect. So it would seem that the government were at the time concerned about the possibility of them catching fire, oh, no, hang on, but I think you'll find according to the stats that diesels are far more likely to catch fire 🤣

The rear drains come down the C pillar, and exit the body behind the bumper at the rear corners of the car.. This is the righthand side (looking at the back of the car) I was able to use my nylon cable to push up into the drain pipework. I'm not sure if there should be a plastic panel in front of this area - but my car does'nt have one. If it should have one it might have been left off when the towbar was fitted. The left hand drain outlet is not visible, but its behind the plastic trim panel with the orange sticker. see next photo. This not very helpful photo was best I good do - the plastic trim panel can be partially released by removing the screw in the metal clip shown to the right of the thumb, its then possible to move the panel just enough to get a hand up into the cavity behind the panel and feel for the drain outlet - if you have previously poured water into the pan roof gutters it may feel wet or be released as a result of touching the outlet. If you have an assistant who can pour water into the gutter you should get a wet hand if its draining OK. I'm relying on keeping the 2 front and the right rear drains clear and hoping that the left one won't cause a problem. Along withe 'moisturising' the neoprene seal with the VW liquid to stop it drying out and shrinking. That will reduce the amount of water that can get past the seal. Keeping water out reduces the amount of dirt that can enter and be washed down the drains.

Mostly, no. It is summer tyres that are suitable for only 3 seasons in the UK. All-season tyres are very suitable for UK winters and they do not lose grip below 7C. All-season tyres are sold in Europe (including the UK). All-weather tires [yes, tires] are sold in North America and not here, and are aimed at a harsher winter climate. Tyre Reviews caters for the North American market as well as the UK market. Hence the all-weather tire reviews you have found there. As for the article from Nokian, the URL begins with'na' - that means it's from Nokian North America. So again, the info is not applicable here.

Love the bit where Patrick, great name, McGoohan drives his Lotus 7 (?) underneath the barrier before it even goes up. Then there is the beautiful Portmerion is the final seconds of the clip.

On the Fabia MK4, the offsets vary depending on the rim diameter. As you can see in the chart below, the Fabia MK4 offsets range from ET38 (for the 14" rims) to ET51 (for the 17" and 18" rims). Offset for Fabia MK4 rim 185/70R14 5Jx14 ET38 185/65R15 5.5Jx15 ET40 195/55R16 6Jx16 ET45 215/45R17 7Jx17 ET51 215/40R18 7Jx18 ET51

The chap plugged the machine in, and said it didnt need to be coded in as it wasn't asking for it

Well , replacing the sensors and the battery have made no difference... still a christmas tree Light show on the dash No idea what to do next ... Any ideas??

Waiting for my Superb, I’m currently running a Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi with 24000 on the clock - and it eats oil ! I’ve put more oil in this car than anything I’ve ever run ( and that includes my Mum’s 1967 Triumph Herald ) Moaned about the oil consumption every time it’s been in the dealers, the reaction ? “ Within tolerance Sir “ I stopped worrying, started buying oil in 5 litre tubs to save money and just got on with enjoying the car. It hasn’t put me off though - the Superb Estate I’ve ordered is coming with the same 2.0 Tdi albeit down a few horses to 193 from the Kodiaq’s 200. - strangled to meet emission regs I imagine. The chap at the motor spares shop that sells me my oil reckons VAG diesels are all. “ fill the oil, check the fuel “

This reg has a BUD engine. Belt kit (not inc WP) is part number 036198119C. Part number for genuine water pump is 036121008M.

On Superb Mk 2, tyre pressure monitoring is done using abs wheel speed sensors, a lower pressure tyre rotates at different speed to the others as rolling diameter is different. New tyres always trigger the fault for me as the rolling diameter is different to the worn tyres they replaced. Silly question, have you tried resetting using the normal method by pressing and holding the TPMS button adjacent to the gear stick? That resets any fault light but also starts a new learning cycle where the car monitors wheel speed to determine what the new baseline is for current tyres and pressures.

I recently acquired a 1995 Favorit GLXie Flair line with just 21k miles on the clock. It joins the 2013 first series Yeti L&C 4x4 I bought last year.

Thank you so much. 🙂

Hi and welcome to Briskoda @Fiddly

I believe it’s almost a rear bumper off to see, though maybe i’ll be able to see if i remove the rear n/s light cluster

For a UK registration vehicle, the 3 or 4 character prefix to the engine number on your V5 document is the engine code - it is also listed on the B pillar label.

So, I phoned my dealer yesterday and spoke to service receptionist who was surprisingly helpful and knowledgable. I explained what had happened and mentioned that I'd heard there was a service campaign for the Karoq to fix the same problem. She checked and told me there isn't anything similar for the Octavia. She did seem to know what she was talking about because she mentioned 57NL (the Karoq service campaign), which I hadn't mentioned. We agreed that booking in the car could be pointless as if it doesn't happen to do it while it's with them, there would be nothing much they could check. To be honest, even if it happened before their eyes, there still might not be much they could do. However, she agreed that it was worth checking for any error codes the car might have logged, so we have arranged that I'll pop-in one day next week for them to connect the car to their computer and check for any diagnostic codes. But If they don't find anything, I'm mot sure what else I or they can do. We'll see.

We learned all about Robber Baron,s, Greedy Barstewards that would rob and pillage and take what was yours and expect you to be grateful for it. Take lots and give a little back. eg The Barrett Formula. We learned that you would be left with cleaning up the nuclear and paying for generations and then that those that want you to have more would try that on.

@Sanqhar yes, there are loads on eBay etc, some have a small nylon brush on the end that’s pushed down the drain. I think some will say there’s a risk the brush could come off and get stuck in the drain.

It will get better, it has to if the electric car is to survive. At school, they tend to teach you more about things that are more local to you, you never learned about East Anglia did you? The same as we never learned about things local to you.

You won’t miss filling the Golf with petrol.

Enjoy guys, only got a 60 but I love driving it so I’m sure you’ll like the 85x. Running costs are amazing, 👍

Wow, I never knew we had any extinct volcanoes here in the UK, yet another example of how we can learn from each other😉

Thanks, that's why I said in the first post about it being the government's car park, to make it clear to those reading it that it was not a public one. Hence my comment earlier about double standards.

Thanks :)

@Graham Butcher Do you remember the last time you could not come up with the Article on the Palace Courtyard. The Power of Google / AI is with us now. Like all improving technology.

Source was posted at the time, and @Stonekeeper and I have once again posted some sources, of which are all on Google, a few simple clicks and you have it.

So the PALACE YARD is a covered car park? An Underground or overground covered car park? Just interested as i read the post that said "Seeing as the UK government had the charging points removed from their own covered car park in Westminster."

Thank you Thamestrader, that's really useful info. Thanks for taking the time to make such a comprehensive reply, much appreciated

Part of the heating ventilation system. Under the bonnet is the intake. To the right of the glovebox is the fan/flaps. Possibly a fan or flap moving, or trying to move. Is the recycle mode button on? Thanks AG Falco

The optional steel spare-wheel and foam-plastic tool-storage insert for a Skoda Fabia Mk 4 is as shown in the image below and includes a scissor jack. Although the type of jack shown in the (green) 1st photo of the two in the earlier posting has the potential to damage the reinforced metal jacking-seam of a Fabia Mk 4, in practice it won't be usable as a Mk 4's seam is a much further towards the centre of the vehicle than on earlier models. Whatever the type of jack, if it is positioned on the car's sill and not on the reinforced jacking-seam, the sill will be damaged when the car is lifted.

Hello, I own a Kamiq MY20 and I have the Ambient package. In my settings, I have the items I am attaching. It should work.

Thought I'd tag on to this thread, because I can't find anything specific regards brake flare (s) / brake pipe flare flaring on the Felicia or favorit. I'm guessing the tool was something similar to this one. I must admit that using this tool (was less than £10 on eBay) I thought that It would be useless and I would have to have the flares redone, but no they sealed ok. I admit that it doesn't create the exact DIN type bubble flare skoda use they but they seem to work ok, with no leaks. I did do a few test runs on some old pipe first. I found that letting the pipe pertrude a little more than the kit states gave better results. Not quite the same bubble flare, but as the union is tightened down it seems to finalize the flare and seal tight. As you can see this is the same problem I had, and why I needed the brake pipe flaring kit. I'm very pleased with the results, and saved a bit of money, don't know what a mechanic would charge to flare the pipes but it'd be more than the tool cost, and I would've had to remove the pipes from the car and take them to the workshop.

No, still factory DCC shocks, but I've done the DCC Mod & DCC Recalibration, which completely transforms the factory adaptive suspension feel - no more bounce, no more wallow, no more bottoming out.

I, like many owners, use a thin nylon cable to push down the drain tubes to keep them clean. Front drains are visible in each corner and easily accessed, rears are not accessible as they are covered by the fixed glass panel. They are accessible from underneath, one side is more accessible than the other. I don’t think there is any sort of flap over the outlet now. I park my car so it slopes to the rear and then pour water carefully into the gutter around the open roof, it’s possible to feel the water coming out the rear drains under the rear bumper. I also discovered that the pan roof is an optional service item, if you ask for it. There is a special fluid (liquid gold by the price!) in the small bottle, that keeps the neoprene seal flexible and thus it seals better. I clean the drains, clean the seals and wiped with the fluid every 6 months.

Standard on the 4.5 facelift. From memory on the 4 they came with the reversing camera. Assume you don’t have the camera?

A couple of weeks ago, when my Karoq was in for service, I took the opportunity to take a closer look at the Elroq; my thoughts have been that the Elroq could well be a contender for when the time comes to replace the Karoq. I should add that for me, currently at 6'1" and slowly reducing, the Karoq has been by far the most comfortable car I have ever driven. I too became immediately aware for the horizontal seating position. with the steering wheel pressing onto my thigh; there didn't seem to be any further adjustment available to raise it. There's no way that In could live with that, and I came away pretty disappointed. I can cross the Elroq off my list of possibles.

I'm guessing that, as you suspect, it's general advice. Perhaps an over-dramatic warning that without the engine running, the battery will eventually go flat.

Just to come back and write about what i dod to the car in the end. In the end went with bilstein b8 shocks, kept the factory sportline springs and did audi tts bushings. I am blown away how much better the car feels after that, if i had known this i would have done it 5 years ago. Car now feels much more “sophisticated”, it is more compliant, rounds off bumps with ease, there is no more crashing from the suspension and it feels much more controled. I guess the harder bushings also made a steering feel a tiny bit more direct. These dampers are supposed to be “sport” option, but they made car feel better allround and I am more than happy with the results, I just hope they last more than the OEM dampers.

A few hundred miles now covered with 'direct' and the car is noticeably easier to drive and less prone to stalling 👍

Looking at the image posted, the yellow caps stay in place - you will need a correct hex. key (allen key) to adjust - I'd suggest a 'T' handled one for this.

So presuming they were a proper MOT station then the lights are correctly adjusted

VW stop issuing updated maps 5 years after production of the infotainment system ends. The MIB1 systems went out of production in mid 2015 so they stopped issuing map updates after 2020, I found this out when my previous Octavia had a MIB1 Amundsen. The maps are a format specific to the Amundsen (and the equivalent VW, Audi and SEAT infotainment systems) and I never managed to find any third party or individual able to create newer maps.

There are several latching clips, circled on your picture. I can't recall if it's 3 or 4 in total. You need to release them all and pull the fusebox forwards. It'll probably be fairly stiff and movement will still be restricted by wires, but lots of gentle wiggling should get it out enough to get a hand behind. Next, remove the purple locking strip from the row you want to add the cables - it pulls out to the left of the fusebox. Finally, easiest method to get a new cable lined up is to put the flat end of a plastic cable tie or similar through from the front, clip the cable over the end of it (just as it grips a fuse blade), then pull the cable tie back through.