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I'd suggest that you have the belt and tensioner carefully checked for condition during your next service. If, purely for peace of mind, you do decide to have the belt and tensioner replaced early, make very sure that the place you contract to do the work knows exactly what they are dealing with! I have seen other owners quoting prices for the 1.5TSI being around £1200 - with the 1.4TSI at around £700 to 800.

As above there is no time or mileage interval specified in the workshop manual only an inspection regime as it's deemed as a fitted for life part. Current anecdotal suggestions seems to indicate 10 years or 240,000kms might be about when it might be worth changing it but as yet I don't recall seeing any evidence online of failures for it or it's predecessor the 1.4tsi act at any age or mileage.

My mk4 Superb L&K 2.0 TDi has a dipstick, it was already installed on delivery (Feb 2025)…

Thanks for all the repliies on this, gents! Much appreciated, and all duly noted!

Thanks, coilpack is going to be replaced next week - it's on order. Once that's fitted and checked, we'll see whether to buy an ECT Sensor.

Thanks, that sound good going forward, I’m only at 1,500 miles about 2,500 km. Plenty of time to loosen up👍

Zoom in on the skoda-parts photos and you can see the alternative brand names on the part (febi, topran (not on China one). https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-germany-9741.html https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-hella-41935.html https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/all/all/na/keywords.xhtml?result=1768067090118 https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/UNIVERSAL/all/na/2/6PT%20009%20107-421/comparisonList.xhtml https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/all/2/6PT%20009%20107-421/datasheet.xhtml

I don't know you'd have to ask the others, I could make a guess but you don't want guesses. Remember what I put about information and databases, this applies to parts and compatibility lists particularly for old cars where part numbers have been superseded. And don't assume any photo might be the actual part, for all I know you might get a photo with a yellow ring but it's also to represent a blue ring too - ask the gentlemen. Plus I look at things from a UK perspective, you being in Czech Republic might have more local suppliers and those posters living nearer might know of more local manufacturers or the more local factories that make the parts that go into different brand boxes and bags. Personally I also like some Beru bits but not a fan of Tosch generally, but for all I know the some of same parts might go into Beru and Tosch bags and boxes. Well done on finding that manual. When the car is set up correctly and running correctly then following it is the thing to do, as you (hopefully would have 20-30+ years ago. Somethings will have improved or changed in the intervening years, oils improved, petrols changed so you need to make allowances for that plus the Owner's Manual refers to a standard factory car at a reasonable age and not with 20-30 years of age and use, and possibly including some abuse and neglect. There's more useful information in the 'Owner's Manual' back then than VWŠkoda allows for later years. Whilst the car's not running fully check the 12v battery and connections and fully recharge the battery to 100% of it capacity, even if the sensor solves your starting issue you still want the battery in good state of charge and health particularly on a car new to you and you relearning about old cars. (I had to help push a 2003 car today, the owner used to work on car alternators but had left the car standing so long for the "new" battery to go flat, professionals and ex-professionals tend to be worse for this sort of thing, above 0c here too.)

That level of Adobe requires full access, re payment, I only have the basic version :-) If anyone wants it, they can message me?

Thanks, will do - BTW, I managed to find the Felicia Owner's Manual! That's a first on this site, I believe.....

Thanks for the reply, but I do not have OTA.

This is great info for me thank you I will hold off and get a belt check arranged for next service . 👍

LPS used to be great but no longer available AFAIK. I'd look for a dry chain lubricant as used by cyclist and motorcyclists. GT85 is a good longer lasting lubricant (and penetrating/releasing fluid) in most uses but you might need a heavier duty lubricant or need to apply GT85 a bit more often. - https://gt85.co.uk/ Lanoguard is said to be a good, long-lasting anti-corrosion lubricant and waterproofing spray a mate of mine swears by it but I've never used it so have no idea how good it would be on moving cable and joints. - https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/ HTH.

Congratulation to Mercedes for winning European Car of the Year 2026. The 60 publications vote across the 7 finalists and the all electric Mercedes CLA took the win. Personally not a fan of its styling but I suspect it is the product of much wind tunnel work as the car has a real work range of over 400 miles at motorway driving speed and base model is under £46k so does not get hit with Expensive car supplementary tax. CAR MagazineThis year's European Car of the Year is by a brand that h...This is your 2026 European Car of the Year - the Mercedes CLA

It’s really simple to factory reset, will take all of 10-15 minutes maximum and majority of your settings will re-download from the Cloud. Think you can get an S-Pin reminder through the portal and once car set up just disable the S-Pin on the Infotainment system.

works 100% :), i had to desolder chip

AFAIK, in a 'non-dusty' environment (which includes UK) the change interval is somewhere around 120 to 140K miles - with no maximum time period stated. I believe that VAG state the belt is 'for engine life' - but of course 'life' could simply be up to the point where the belt fails! Make no mistake, cambelt failure can be catastrophic for the engine, and the belt should be inspected at regular intervals - but it never required replacement at the intervals that Skoda UK were stating two years ago. Previously, Skoda UK, contrary to all other VAG manufacturers, were stating 5 years.

Just reset it deleting a user with two keys on you and it will be fine, skoda made different layout of hardware software on newer skodas after 2025….but in majority i didnt buy car because of stupid infotaiment but because of good usage on long or short trips nice engine power and dsg for cheaper price than audi bmw or mercedes and thats it i cant expect miracles… Im doing 200k km in 4years and this is my third skoda from 2016…none of them ever leave me on trip or any mehanical failure…

Thanks for sharing this, however it is worth noting that this depends on which Superb you're talking about - some versions of the MK2 Superb came with the exact same tyre size. Yes offset is different so the wheels will be further out from the centre of the car, but many will prefer this as it will be like having spacers, from aesthetic point of view. As far as I'm aware, the centre bore size and bolt pattern will fit the vast majority of Skodas (likewise VW and Seat, and some Audis but not as many as they mostly have different centre bore). The tyre sizes and offsets vary hugely across the Skoda range over the years. Can also double check this easily online for any specific vehicle. As said in the original post, I'm happy to help check what the diameter change would be from stock due to the tyres, and what effect the offset will have. Willtheyfit is a great tool for this, so thank you for sharing it. If anyone is interested in the wheels, but feels the tyre size is not right for their car, I would be happy to discuss selling the wheels without the tyres, at a lower price of £1,600.00. Hope that helps, happy to answer any questions.

If you download the wheel and tyres brochure from Skoda directly they also provide this information. This will give you the officially homologated rim sizes and compatible tyres. In the UK I think you can still fit any tyre size you want to the car even if it's not matching the official figures. However in many countries in Europe, you will not pass your MOT without official work and tyre sizes. I'm not sure how the snow chains law work in Austria or France but you can also consider the hybrid chains (socks with plastic chains) which are much thinner and will fit into the slightly tighter places...

Snowsocks. They do very little damage to your wheels and can be driven short distances on tarmac - unlike chans which have to be removed by law. They are also much easier to fit, cheaper and take up less space. Also used (allegedly) by the emergency services.... https://www.autosock.co.uk/

Regardless of the fact that at your mileage and age it doesn't need doing what your mechanic has told you would make me run a mile and ensure he never got near my vehicle. It is TOTALLY INCORRECT!

All of those systems rely on knowing vehicle speed. I had exactly the same list of faults when the right rear wheel speed sensor failed on my previous 2015 Octavia. So I have to disagree and say that in my opinion and experience the problem is a failed wheel speed sensor.

My New Car Spec High all, after much deliberation with which options to tick & not. Today, I have finally pushed the button on a fully loaded Octavia vRS estate😁 Options & specs as follows.. Exclusive paint Space Violet Winter package plus Assisted drive package plus with remote park plus Simply clever package premium with Storage compartment under passenger seat 18" Space saving spare wheel Electrically adjustable tilt/slide Panoramic glass sunroof CANTON Sound System (12+1 speakers) Dynamic Chassis Control Extended warranty (4 years or 100000 miles) Service Pack 16 wks is the current estimated lead time. On count down now............can't wait!!!

Update: I just remembered another 2 times that i was in a hurry and didn't follow the proper procedure. After 5-6 hours that my Felicia was parked (low level, underground parking) i want to move it close to Exit so when i finish my shift to don't lose time to return home. Key insert, 1st scale and immediately crank, the car started the ''brough-brough" (trembling) and i turn it off with agony. Scenarios started in my head ''3 cylinder, damager spark plug, the coil, the pump or the gasoline pressure regulator" etc. I waited few seconds, fingers crossed and then did the start in two steps, thankfully everything went OK and the car started normally. Few months later i did the same mistake, the car start trembling and i turn it off, the next second i slander myself ''you @%&#* ,you already know that this does not work, don't brake the rule" ,waited few second i did the engine start step-by step and the car start ''nice and easy". So, for me now it's a rule: "No matter what, follow the protocol".

Just a follow up to say all of the pipes highlighted below were replaced and the car runs fine. There was some weird stuff with the fuel gauge not reading properly, but a battery disconnect for 30 mins solved that. I guess -20'c was too much for the little plastic retainer (circled) and that caused the pipe to separate.

Sounds positive then and thanks for the update, Pete. Fingers crossed for you

Thanks for the interest. Yes and no. Seems not to be as worrying as first feared, but I don't yet understand why. Main driver took it on a reasonably long trip (3hrs each way) this week, and checking of level in expansion tank prior to return journey suggested no loss of coolant or pressure-related change in level. Will have time at the weekend to look at current level and to open cap and listen for any unexpected pressure. Have temporarily stopped actively looking for the right spare engine on ebay. 😀

That section was always empty as well. Funnily enough there was a large update that appeared last night, everything was fixed. Shop works again and the other Apps have come back.

Thanks everyone, I managed to find the screen to resolve this. In my car when looking at the “car-,external screen I hadn’t noticed there was an option to slide over to a second stream where the brake options were showing! Appreciate all the advice!

Had similar problems on my 1.9tdi. I oiled waste gate actuator and manually operated until smooth again. I cant see why they are wanting to replace turbo unless they found something wrong with it. I would oil or replace wastegate first as its a much cheaper option. Alasdair

SWMBOs MY18 Fabia with similar engine (CHZC) had an identical issue in March last year - except it also occasionally went into limp mode. The issue was caused by a faulty wastegate actuator arm - which was fixed with a replacement lever arm kit. DTC was P003A. Kit replacement number was 04C198701D £32.35 from TPS; total repair cost inc. diagnostics, was £293. What is the DTC on yours?

Don't push him, he could do it! 😂

You now need to check for moisture on and/or under the rear carpets, and also the lowest areas of the boot floor.

Consider getting one of the little LED-display voltmeters that plug into the accessory socket and give you a continuous readout of the battery voltage whilst on the move. Then you can get a feel for what the voltage ranges between and peaks at (probably on the over-run).

Part 2, Finally got it typed up and ready... Level 2 Advancing from Level 1, you have a repeat episode on the same journey of the MAF turning on a glow plug warning. However, you also get an EML light that wont turn off with the ignition Cycle. When scan the ecu, there will be a stored MAF fault. Clearing the code, it wont come back unless you again have a double MAF fault in same journey. I do not recall seeing any EGR Fault Codes during the level 2 period. Level 3 Things are getting worse.. the Valve has stuck open and isn’t resetting properly. What do you experience? Cold starting will be normal, but when driving away any revving over 2500rpm or a full throttle under 2500 will induce a limp mode, EML and flashing glow plug. Cycling the ignition will clear the glow plug and the limp mode, unless you go over 2500 rpm again. This will continue until oil temp indicator on the dash (assuming a maxidot display) shows over 70c. Once the engine is warmed up to this temp, you can rev / throttle as normal. Long driving symptoms revert to level 2. Fault codes will show up as – MAF, EGR Sensor A & EGR Sensor B Additional observations on my experience at Level 3 – Air Temperature affect. When Cold starting, the ambient air temp seems to have an effect on the symptoms. During warmer weather, when the air temp (maxidot) shows between 14.5 – 20 degrees, limp mode risk from revving over 2500 before reaching the oil temp vanishes, but full throttle will induce it. Above 20deg the chance of a limp mode seems to increase again, I don’t know why. Level 4 Cold start will lead to an immediate flashing glow plug and driving in limp mode. Cycling the ignition will do nothing until the engine oil is up to 70deg or higher, after which you once again are back to Level 2. Fault codes will show up as – MAF, EGR Sensor A & EGR Sensor B Level 5 If you get here, its as bad as you can really expect short of the car being completely undrivable. As per Level 4, Cold starting issues go away once over 70 deg oil temp. However, even after clearing codes and continuing on you are not 100% in the clear. Revving over 2500 rpm is okay, however, any full throttle acceleration, regardless of engine speed / gear selection, carries about a 20% risk of popping another limp mode. Solutions – Obviously a new EGR valve, and the earlier in the symptoms the better, however, having looked into this, due to the EGR system’s position on the CAYC, off down the back of the engine, replacement is time consuming due to how much stuff needs to come off to get access to it from underneath on a ram, thus its gets expensive. Saw quotes of 1200 to 1600 quid on similar engine Golfs etc. Blank off and code out your EGR. This may cause an increase in the number dpf regens the car requires, likely has a net negative effect on total emissions etc. Other Notes – Please be aware that while I did let things get bad on mine prior to getting it resolved via option B above, there was a simple reason for this – I don’t drive the car most days currently as I have a work van I now use for all my work stuff. So, poor donkey 2 is sitting on the driveway for the vast majority of the week, other than school run once a week, and the shopping collection once a week. All low speed, short journeys that diesels hate. One or 2 long drives per month that I take it on, mostly to try and keep the dpf sorted and stretch its legs. I also saw an opportunity to learn as much as I could about how this system operates and how the failure develops over time so that icould do this write up on it to hopefully help others with similar issues. And finally, I’ve been thinking about changing it (don’t tell it though, it’ll get cross and get the hump), and so weighing the options on whether it was going to be worth my while putting the money into it for the trade in value. Ultimately, I got it blanked while it was getting a full service and mild TLC before its NCT (MOT, which passed with only an advisory for tyre tread under 3mm), as I didn’t want to risk it failing by throwing any of the faults during the test, and saw the blanking out as worth the cost for when I do change it, hopefully this year for a petrol… something… hopefully a bit interesting, yet to be decided on. I hope the above does prove useful for somebody, somewhere, banging their head off the steering wheel trying to figure out why it seems random, especially if you go down the early doors option and needlessly change the MAF sensor , until you really look at everything that happening together. The air temp influence in particular I found very interesting.

Welcome. Small capacity 3 cylinder petrol turbo engine, 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG and a not small car. Maybe not run much recently. What service history has it got? FMDSH means nothing if just oil and filter changes and look see and report. Have you tried moving the shifter back to S as you roll up and then once you have moved on with the gears getting held before shifting up, put it back to D. Maybe try a tank of E5 Super Unleaded as well. 97 or 99 ron. Before any DSG (DQ200) reset, how many miles has the car done? Is there a nice clean air filter fitted, and the spark plugs need changed maybe.