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Hi all. Just saying hello. Our Yeti was bought as a wife/dog/pub car and we deliberately chose a model that was simple mechanically and cheapest to run. So it’s a 1.2 Outdoor fwd manual, now on 80k miles. Mrs T’s only regret is the absence of heated seats… We’ve owned it for 2 mainly trouble-free years, although I’m anticipating a front suspension advisory at its MOT next week and have noted the discussion on here about damper specs and performance, which has been really helpful already. The only other issues have been an unresponsive touchscreen, which I fixed with a new £29 lcd panel and some help from YouTube (a really satisfying job to do) and replacing the dismal headlamp dip beam bulbs, which was a pain in the bum job, especially on the nearside! The car no longer looks anywhere near as shiny as it did when bought from Peter Cooper Prestige Cars at Hedge End near Southampton…

As many drivers of these 4x4,s Part Time 4x4,s Softroaders that were going no place fast last week in the North East of Scotland know, get the proper tyres. Plenty were shown up by small light city cars or even bigger ones with FWD or RWD and no Snow Modes or Offroad modes but actual traction.

Either a bad seal around the tyre bead, leaking valve stem or screw/nail in tread. Leak partially re-sealing while running. Jack wheel off ground and check carefully for foreign objects in tyre. Test valve stem with saliva or soapy water for leakage.

A few from me on my travels since the last post.

That’s for a site admin to take care of. I do know both Colin and Dean are pretty busy at the minute, but I’m sure it will get added to the forum as soon as they have a chance 👍🏻 In the meantime, just start your new threads here in the mk4 section, and put it in the title that it’s for the face lift. Then once the new sub is added, mods can pull them across easily. That said, Colin doesn’t usually split out the facelifts into their own model sub.

Hi, recently bought this 2016 Superb SEL 2.0 TDi 150. My first modern car in many years, most impressed. My Dad had a 2001 Fabia estate in that delightful flat mid blue... and was a big fan of the Yeti. If he was around today I'm sure he would be blown away by the quality of the Superb.

Tiny amount of oil on a dipstick, and it is the fumes coming off, about as much risk as burning brandy off a plum duff. Engage brain, and if you have not full safety gear and fire step away from naked flames. It is not conclusive, but that does not stop it being a quick test that some Resoponders to breakdowns will do ot Motor Engineers, AKA Mechanics might still carry out. Pre Plug in and read Fault Codes, or No OBD port, as was for decades.

When a petrol cars is diluting the oil with petrol or you suspect it is there are samples to take, test etc. Or as many might do, DIP THE OIL, take the dip stick away from the car, and use a match or lighter to move a flame near the oil on the dip stick. Petrol in Oil usually will burn. try just fresh oil and a naked flame near and see.

Just thought I would report back with an update. I had it looked at by a garage this weekend, it is the air conditioning pump/condenser which is rattling! The guy showed me it where it is also leaking and took the belt off and ran the engine to show the noise stopped. They are ringing me today with a price, not gonna be cheap but I’m slightly relieved as I was thinking the absolute worst! Thanks again for all the help.

It's common sense really and applies to lot's of places that get a lot of snow, Europe, US & Canada. People head out on mountain roads with inappropriate boots and either get stuck, blocking the road for everyone or go off the road completely. Not that different here, even with good winter tyres you're still going to get stuck behind the one in front doesn't have decent boots.

I did, but I am an old stubborn son of a bitch. Would like to test everything by myself.

Mine in my post above is on 19's

All I know is that water was leaking from the rear screen washer into the boot lock. I subsequently had to have the rear wiper replaced for an extortionate amount of money. I think the water leaked through the wiper mechanism, causing it to fail.

Rightly or wrongly I'd be concerned about hidden or seen condensation from using steam particularly at this time of year. Rags and cleaners can clean up enough oil usually to see if fresh is oil is added. In warmer weather many years back I'd clean and "detail" an engine bay by the use of engine cleaner, a radiator brush, garden hose to flush and spray cleaner polish over the still wet/damp surfaces and wipe where required and just closed the bonnet and leave things to dry. If I was particularly bothered I might do a bit more spray cleaner polish and/or buff for shine. If I was worried about any electronics they'd be wrapped in clingfilm before starting and clingfilm off after hosing. Quick and effective, there are always lots more interesting things you can do whilst you wait for the engine bay to fully dry. I used to spend two days cleaning a car sometime after I first got it and just before putting it up for sale - but that was many years back.

Hi buddy and welcome to the forum 🙂

No spare / Space Saver / Saver of Space is identical to the cars tyres unless exactly the same size / profile and wheel size / width. They are there or there abouts. Even a brand new matching wheel / tyre unused when put on is not identical to a 10,000 mile tyre that is on the car. steel wheel and narrower tyre

Research, experience, trial and error - and then things change, a former good manufacturer and/or supplier no longer is or for that particular part perhaps and on the other side a former poor manufacturer and/or supplier can improve (sometimes). You are doing a fair amount of research which is good (obviously, as much as possible, better done before considering getting the vehicle) are you also encouraging or allowing your son to do so too, not one of theses dad's that pretend buys the toys for the kid(s) or still spoon feeds the kid(s) (obviously I cleaned that bit up 😀). Learning by others experiences, and mistakes, is often more efficient and saves frustration, time and money but they are remembered more when you actually go through them for yourself (until you forget). Hands-on experience is definitely needed with old and new cars, with hand not powered tools too, things like how tight so as it doesn't come loose or you break it. Now it seems even though a few screws, bolts, nuts need tightening or loosening a power just has to be used, fair enough for professional that have (hopefully) learnt what they're doing and need the speed to get on to the next job but not for DIYers and especially those that are learning and inexperienced. Time for tea.

Ordered 5Q0035507AH from my local dealer. €104+ VAT I'll update whe it's time to install.

If is a fuse problem it should be fuse F19 under the bonnet if you have viusually checked it could be the case to test it with a multimeter or just replace it and try to se if somwthing wakes up

This is a big true also....as I mentioned I have an Octavia ABT 4x4, model 2002... winter in Greece is not like Scotland but occasionally you can meet quite harsh conditions...although I have snow socks with me I have never tried them, as I am dealing quite well with my normal summer tires....in northern Greece though, I know many drivers use winter tires...I knew my car's behaviour, but this is not a replacement of a good tire...it is just that for me in Southern Greece, winter tires are useless just for 4-5 times a year...electronic management though is another story, that also cannot be replaced by tires entirely..

I smell a fumes out of the back, I see the EGR cooler gasket have black carbon through the gap. So next weekend have to remove to inspect if required a new gasket or whatever, by the way my coolant system runs fine and lovely hot not too hot like in the summer. Fab.

The wheels and tyres on the car now will fit in the spare tyre well. Well one will. Take one off the car and try.... If you have a spare and a full car and need to change the spare the tyre off the car should go in there flat or not. Loads and loads of threads in this section asking about Spare Wheels / Tyres. worth doing searches sometimes.

The chances are low, especially in our cars where you can’t get to the back of the lights easily, but MOT testers are not allowed to remove anything during testing. There are notes about if it’s xenon they’ll be a warming up period, whereas LED is instant so they could tell the difference straight away If you were in an accident and other person said “I was dazzled” or something and it was a serious accident then they’d check but in all honesty it would only be a fatal accident they’d check everything. Also as they’re not E marked and that is legislation you are breaking the law and obviously insurance is technically invalid Osram in other European countries have a direct Halogen to LED replacement which is road legal but UK is slow to get with times

Still have the glue in my cars as well as the spare just in case I get flat on busy road to get me out of there quick. Your right though in the past I have used it and works to a point but not for very long plus tyre service hates it. Hope you enjoy new car Alasdair

No warrenty https://mega.nz/file/xrtUkJ5Z#6cS5Atz6EHysZuSv3CtfiA1N5YLuHjbXYDB3L2_n1D8

The easiest way of determining whether its the cylinder head gasket that has failed is with a Borescope. Take out the injectors, looks at the mixture chamber and also the cylinder head. If its REALLY shiny and not full of carbon (most TDI's get fairly mucky inside the combustion camber and cylinders) then that is the first indication. Second indication is pressurisation. Pressurise the cooling system (I wish I could remember what the PSI figure should be - others might be able to help me here) and look inside the cylinder - if you see coolant weeping from top to bottom, then you know the gasket has failed. Third way - drain the oil - if it is a horrible [known as Forbidden Smoo] - a milky creamy substance, then that is also a good indicator that you have coolant in the oil.

off road mode locks all 4 wheels and make them turning the same turns. like differential lock, it disables by itself on i think 30 kmh. it is different to drive with off rode, its like driving a tank, i know. try to get used to it. ask professionals in service.

I've had two 4x4 Skoda's, neither of which have had those selectable modes (Octavia 2 4x4 and current Kodiaq 4x4 SE). I live at the top of a hill at the edge of the Peak District where we get a lot of bad weather and also have a disabled child. I have never worried about not having selectable modes as both cars have performed brilliantly in snow and rough tracks. If I were you I'd stop worrying. If you're really concerned invest in better tyres rather than sweating over a mode button as they'll give you a far better return on investment.

Roughly speaking a litre of petrol or diesel combusted in an engine results in a litre of liquid water being created. Mostly this remains in vapour phase and exits the exhaust unnoticed, but in cold ambient conditions and if the whole exhaust system doesn't get hot regularly, it becomes apparent as condensed liquid water.

Perfect, thanks Found a wheel 195/55/15 so pretty close using the link your supplied. Appreciate your help

5Q0035507AH = normal colour 5Q0035507AH5FQ = glossy black

I would suggest ordering new top mounts while you're at it. Won't hurt anything. Stick with Meyle or Lemforder for the top-mounts though.

Hi, This is the mechanism that I need to take out.

No steam, may damage some soft plastics and bring moisture in contacts-cable connections. Use a tough pair of gloves (not cheap one-use nitrile) and baby wipes, in difficult spots throw some alcohol lotion 93 'C and use a long paint brush, in hard areas a degrease spray with caution, then wipe the excess. When all are clean use a cloth and a plastic-care product and apply a light coat on them. NO water in pressure via garden hose inside the engine bay !

It is. Update: Today was 2°C, I was driving 250km on highway and 30 in the city and no warning showed up. I drove on higher rpm for a while

If you go for a 15" with 185/60/15 or 195/55/15 it will be very near the same size as 215/45/16 assuming the 16" has these tyres. https://tiresize.com/comparison/ Alasdair

With the short trips you do I don't think this is anything to worry about. If the petrol smell was there at the end of a long trip then it would be cause for worry. The TSi engine has a cold start function with might be slightly over-fuelling the engine during start-up. The excess petrol can then mix with the oil and get into the sump. Also the engine has the ability to operate in 2 cylinder mode, this could also give rise to fuel being injected that is not burnt on occasion. If you are worried ask for the dealer to do a diagnostic scan and report any DTC's (They will probably charge you.)

I'm aware of a few owners who have switched from Xenon to LED bulbs, including myself. I made the switch 1.5 yrs ago - from Xenon D3S to LED D3S bulbs. I have a MY17 pre-facelift. I bought J.W. Speaker D3S LED bulbs - they're really good. No errors, no issues and the lighting is much better than the previous Xenons I had, Phillips XtremeVision Gen2, which were an upgrade from the factory Xenons. These LED bulbs have a built-in fan, which conveniently fits within the headlight cover at the back. Highly recommended. As for condensation build up - I hardly got that before. I haven't got it since.

Yep, I also had the same update as did several other Kamiq's The update required 2-3 restarts to get it all done. But I also noticed that a few things went AWOL until the update fully completed.

Is it a facelift one? Odd they would be different. Ours is on Michelin Primacy 18" tyres. Drives fine with them at 2.1bar

I used to get this from time to time. Press and hold the power button on the radio until it restarts and it should connect ok.

timing at 75k should still be ok unless its more than 5 years as long as they fitted a decent quality kit. Any decent garage would be able to look at it/check it for you and may be able to help. My old one that I used to use regularly before they retired didnt mind if you popped in to let them hear any problems especially if you took biscuits/cakes Alasdair

Pretty clear Sky this evening 🌛

I reckon Fountains Abbey in the Mist rivals Whitby Abbey?

View through a window the other day - caught my eye as I was passing.

Spotted this earlier.......

Auto hold on will apply the parking brake automatically. I find the ride great with dynamic chassis control. You might find it easier to put the drive modes permanently up on the screen so any mode is just a single touch away. I regularly use comfort, normal and sport rather than just stay in one mode. I’ve had Audis and BMWs before and love the Skoda but I personally enjoy being written off by brand snobs. I couldn’t care less and prefer to drive an under the radar vehicle

You will need thin trim remove Tools. Mask Blue area with tape in case trim tool slips and scratches plastic. Orange arrows, start here. Once this area is lifted you can slot a credit card in there to keep the gap where are you use your trim removal tools on the next next stage. Green arrows next. Blue arrow, trim just hooks under here, no prying required. It will then lift out allowing you to disconnect the two block connectors for the windows and mirrors. It is a tight fit but will pop up as you work your way around.

what side of the bed did you get out of this morning.this site is for people to express there views on numerous things and most of the things effects us all.we may not agree with what people views are. that is why this site is so good to air there views .