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Had a go at macro shooting this evening with mixed results. Not really my bag being the impatient sort. Tried before with some flowers, it was a total disaster. Dept of field is the trickiest bit along with focus stacking. A lot of faffing about for one shot tbh.

9.6 volts is too low and is a strong indication the battery is failing. What is the charging voltage? Total failure can be sudden and leave you stranded. At the very least, you will be chasing phantom fault warnings - remember what happened to the Boy who called Wolf once too often.

Thank for your yelp. I put the new £12.00 button in and my car starts and stops immediately.. First time for a year, luxury 🙂🙂

In case battery issues were behind all the glitches with our manual mc I bought a ctek charger. It hasn't made any difference. Start-stop works when it wants to and generally not for very long. It's stopped a few times and not wanted to restart in very difficult situations in traffic. Not completely sure if that's stop or stall if you follow. I asked the dealer to look the battery over at the last service. They say that it's fine. It looks to me that the car is equipped with inadequate electronics and software. Maybe some duff chips entered the supply chain when there was a prolonged shortage a few years back.

And now it's fixed. Took it to ADAS Calibration Services https://share.google/BY72y2GnDxnuKK9vn in Bury St Edmunds who managed to get the radar cover off, clear all the spider web etc and then used an Autel to recalibrate and reset. Very happy 😁

I have a mk iv superb l&j. My subwoofer isnt in the left hand boot compartment.

I had one speaker not working and the other very crackly when I bought the car so today was the day for the speaker upgrade. Thought I would write it as a bit of a how to/ how I did it post for anyone interested. I wasn’t aiming for a significant upgrade, more a replacement so I actually had a bit of bass in the music. I knew the audio was already split so didn’t want to get coaxial speakers as the tweeter would be pretty redundant. I chose these speakers: https://incartec.co.uk/product/pioneer-ts-g1710f-6-5-g-series-dual-cone-car-speakers-280w This fitting kit: https://incartec.co.uk/product/Skoda-165mm-6-5-Inch-front-rear-door-speaker-upgrade-fitting-kit-SFKU-SKO01-165?srsltid=AfmBOoq5Y4bVhgm-VHjXMRIz6i9xjxSMSXPjPpqMCMTggDuQCZcx55rH And got these foam rings to feed the sound through the door card and also apply a bit of pressure to the door card so it doesn’t rattle: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHv7xCk Removal of the door card was a bit nerve racking as it needs a strong pull to undo the clips. This video is a brilliant guide of removal and refitting: Once the door card is removed you have to drill out the pop rivets holding the speaker in. Top tip I learned from an engineer at work is you get a small (4mm) drill bit and use it as a punch and hammer the centre out the pop rivet. It makes it much easier to drill out. I used a 5.5mm drill bit then had to hammer the remaining parts out of the door metal. Be sure to retrieve the bits of rivet that fall into the door. I could then use M5 bolts with nylock nuts to install the adaptor rings. The speakers then screw into these nicely. Take note to correctly position the cut out in the adaptor rings for the wiring. I then added a bit of self adhesive Velcro to the back of the plug and stuck it to the door so that it doesn’t rattle. I then stuck the foam rings onto the front of the speakers and it was time to refit the door card. Be sure to check all the clips are in the right position as per the video above before refitting the door card. It wasn’t too bad but just a bit fiddly to make sure all the wires went back through the right holes. Then repeat for the passenger side, which was slightly easier as there were less wires to worry about. Both doors took about about 2.5 hours including tidying up etc. The original speakers had catastrophically failed so much so that the magnet had come right off one and was stuck to the inside of the door! All in all a decent upgrade. I’m sure it’s probably not a massive improvement over OEM but it’s definitely an improvement on non-working speakers!

Hi! Possibly looking to purchase my first Skoda in the coming weeks so I thought I’d join and find out as much as I can before I venture down the rabbit hole of finding one! 👋

The Mk4 needs the battery to be in peak condition, it doesn't take much of a drop to cause random codes. Obviously, ignoring codes is a potentially dangerous practice, so you're always obligated to check them out and determine whether genuine or phantom. About 12 months ago I started the habit of connecting my smart charger when the car isn't in use for more than a few days, since then I've never had a code appear.

Sounds like something to be done most times when washing just to be on the safe side. Good tip 👍🏼

The drain holes are concealed under the seal on the door and are prone to blockage - gently insert fingers between the folds of the seal at the bottom of door and run them along it.

Also found this video where the manual key is used to pry the case rather than a screwdriver.

You need Freedom Lite minimum to sell on here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

Sometimes my rattles on cold start up. There is a slight noise from the hydraulic tappets but that is all. Ours is supposedly to have had the improved tensioner. The dealer filled mine with 0W 30W when the spec is 5W 30W so is that of benefit for the chain? Yes, 0W circulates quicker but does it lack body for faster rise in oil pressure which activates the tensioner? When we had the hot spell in the summer the thinness of the oil made the chain make a rubbing sound for a few seconds which worried me. The impending service and oil change eliminated that noise.

One more thing, are you sure you are depressing the clutch to fully disengage it? Two possibilities, either you are pressing a bit too much or not enough. This is a longshot and I think going to the dealer is the best bet.

I used to use Eco mode a lot but found that when coasting the lack of engine braking meant I was using the brakes quite often, so I've gone back to D mode to get engine braking back.

If you select eco mode, this will give you the coasting function.

Take it to the local auto parts place or watch repair joint. Im sure they will be able to open Yours may be glued or something but unlikely

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Try this:

It don’t think it’s that type. It looks like this …..

There are, I think, two possibilities: The gear shift linkages might need adjusting. The actual shift lever mechanism might need some lubrication. The best thing is to take it to the dealer and demonstrate the problem on a test drive. If they tell you it is fine then ask them to note the problem on the cars electronic service record. This way if the problem gets worse you have a record of reporting it before the car is 1 year old.

My Karoq 1.5 is also 7 years old, doesn't stall and never has. Always strange to hear that some have issues.

I use S often. Other than for hills, spirited driving. Briliant in town, on snow and ice. Drop back to S, no accelerator, or touching the brake. You drop a gear and slow down. Even stop. I have only 1 foot and have driven only 2 pedal cars for 50 years. All sorts. I like DQ200 with a manual parking brake or an e-brake.

I have the same 7 speed DGS and you just drive it like an automatic. Brake to stop, gas to go. Don't over think it. Even without hill/hold assist the car will wait a little bit after taking foot off the brake and being stationary before it starts rolling forward on it's own.

Battery needs to be coded into the cars electrics or the car will charge it as if it was an old battery, so the new battery never reaches its potential, so to speak. Sorry cross post Warrior1963

For intermittent stop/start operation it is possible that the replacement battery wasn't adapted into the vehicles BCM correctly - or the battery is faulty. Have you checked charging voltage at the battery terminals?

Intermittent stop/start is usually an indication of battery low state of charge - either from low use, or failing battery.

Absolutely It's about getting the voltage up a bit more than keeping the battery up. You are pushing with 14.4V rather than say 10 (which is what a battery hooked to a flat one will go down to). Also as someone else said, the VR on the running alternator helps smooth out the spikes when you clip leads on and off

Not sure if it has a coasting mode but it definitely has hill hold assist so have been able to use that. Just trying to get my head around my driving style with the dsg and the amount of pressure on the pedals vs manual with clutch I could control. I do love the ease of gear changes and how smooth they are. In terms of oil change, I think as it’s going fine I’ll leave it be

Well, I solved it. Turns out that the leads are ok, they're rated for up to 3000cc. But on the Alhambra engine bay, I'd made a mistake about where to connect the black cable to earth it. The actual earthing strip is just a thin bit of bare metal with a painted nut or something either side of it. Looks like the first time I'd connectedd to the painted bit not the unpainted bit, which is very thin and can only be clipped to one way!

Simples really. You do not use the left foot on the brake unless maybe like me and you have no right foot. 1 foot, 2 pedals. So foot from brake to accelerator, takes no time. While foot on brake the drive is disengaged. The car holds a couple of seconds, brake to accelerator, and then you still have a Parking / Hand brake. If you have Hillhold assist then read up on that, or watch a youtube video. Does your car have 'Coasting' mode which can be enabled? There are 2 oils to change if you really want that done. Best leave well alone if all is good with the DQ200 DSG.

Yes so the car giving the charge is not surprised!

Many years ago, the first time that I needed to use a new "good" set of jump leads to help a neighbour out - I failed, same outcome as you had! Crimps on the leads were very substandard, I replaced/reinforced the crimps on the crock clips with heavy duty cable clamps - and over the next 30+years have never had the need to use these leads! With modern cars I'd only ever now use a jump pack, which also has many uses as a portable 12V DC power source.

AGM batteries usually sit at 85% charged capacity. Not coding in your battery will also mess up stop/start and you may also get voltage spikes on the car electrics due to the BMS struggling to know what the current charge or voltage is or should be. This may also throw low voltage codes.

I fitted a new AGM battery, same type and capacity, with 6 months the stop start failed to work and bat capacity was at 70% even on after a long run.... i then coded it and re charged it. Has been fine since. Evidence perhaps not but considering the OP has had issues without a coding, it does seem to point to that batteries need coding upon replacement.

Just to revive and update this thread, here's the current (November 2025) link to Skoda's page for manuals download. You'll need your VIN. I get the impression they change the address from time to time, in order to keep us all on our toes. Škoda Owner's ManualsOn this page we offer you the opportunity to download the owner's manual and any other documents for the car.

Amazing work & true dedication to the project.👍

Finally all back together with new discs and pads and all the correct handbrake cable clips. Tried bleeding the brakes, but just cant get a firm firm pedal. It goes straight to the floor once the cars started. Im sure I don't need to bleed the abs pump as I never let the system run dry. Im hoping I don't need to replace the master cylinder. I suspect the rounded brake pipe nut is letting in air. I run out of time to investigate. I'll worry about it when I'm back from my hols!

Marked up the mounting brackets so I could get them back in the same position. Just light surface rust / dirt. Picture makes it look worse. Wad very solid

With the service pack I also treated myself to a Racingline Turbo Muffler Delete and a Racingline R600 Hi-Flow Turbo Inlet Elbow. These where a bit of a pain to fit as you have to do some hand contortionism to get the muffler delete bolt in and out. The elbow also wasn't straight forward as the hose that's connected to it is on there good and you have to give it some real force to get it off. I am glad I installed the elbow as I noticed the bolt that holds it on was completely loose. I have never touch that part before so no idea how it had managed to come so loose it was nearly falling out. Performance wise, I cant really tell any notable difference. Noise wise, the two combined with my induction kit has definitely increased the turbo noise and hiss.

You've misunderstood the purpose of it, because these engines use port injection, the warm air is to help the fuel stay atomised in suspension rather than partially condensing on the cold metal surfaces and trickling into the cylinder as a liquid which doesn't burn and blows straight out of the exhaust. It's why port injection engines use more fuel on cold starts. The issue no longer exists on modern direct injection engines because the fuel isn't injected until the air in the cylinder is partly compressed and already very hot.