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Hi, probably you can check these two - one link was embedded inside, I put it here separately: https://www.drive2.ru/l/659269097233580313/ And finally, yes the Canton is nice system, but it does lack "punch". It is inevitable, most modern systems go into this "balanced ambiance theater effect" which is fantastic, but obviously misses the "stadium rock" feel .... Play with the settings and see if you can make it a lil better. It is also very sensible to whatever music you play, how it is encoded, and so on. In any case, I have a friend that works with some pro audio stuff (both car and home/studio) and has mentioned to me it seems to be undersized, so to expect a "support to sound" but not really to take the stage as a main driver...

It looks a bit like a fuel tank. Expect possible fault codes to do with fuel or EVAP system.

Hi, I haven't done it on my ex Superb Mk3, but I've made a 'how to' for the front pads of my Kodiaq Mk1 recently. Maybe you can have a look to it. I guess it will be very similar.

As all who who have Karoq without sound system (amplifier) know - the sound in our cars is dull and flat , without any more less decent bass and complete absence of high frequencies details. I decided to fix this issue with minimal possible budget and as less technical hassle as possible. I splitted my exercise in few steps. First two I combined , but even first one will lead to way better bass in your car. 1) I did lite version of doors sound deadening included outside metal , inside metal frame, and door panel wit anti vibration and noise cancellation covers. All materials are relatively light , but effect is dramatic. I did the same with stock speakers on my previous SupMK3 and result was very good as well. 2) This time I decided not to stop on half way and installed relatively cheap Focal component speakers. Rear set was Midbass speakers from integration series IS 165VW + TWU 1.5 tweeters (original from set I lost during house move . This tweeters fits with just a couple of drops of hot glue. Midbass are bolt on bar wires. 3) Front speakers I got Focal PS 165V1 as they do have separate crossovers for midbass and tweeters. So this saved me a hassle to reroute wiring but added additional complexity of tweeters disassembly. Both , rear and front speakers installed at default positions with original wiring ( bar connectors). Probably PS 165FX will be better , but wiring .... I was not mentally ready In a mean time , as I broke one of the A-Pillar plastic cover I decided to change colour to black. Maybe I can reuse old one for proper tweeters podiums one day. The result of all this was already astonishing. For aprox 400(ish) euro + a lot of Russian swearing ( as i did all by myself) I got completely different sound in my Karoq as well as WAY less road noise during daily commutes. But I decided to go extra mile and add Plug`n`Play AMP with DSP and under seat subwoofer 4) Apmlified DSP I got - PUZU PZ-C31. Manufacturer claiming 45W RMS. Not exactly true , but I can now listen the music way launder the with stock speakers and headunit. I definetly can recommend this Amp for everyone who want better sound in their car without rewiring and other complex exercises which can cost you thousands. Got the device here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32943217567.html?af=2679416&cv=72&cn=43q05zx0mp82kh7x0op8amf2p5i286z2&dp=v5_43q05zx0mp82kh7x0op8amf2p5i286z2&afref=&aff_platform=api&cpt=1572400405028&sk=E2Hg0fJa&aff_trace_key=80b893ab41034997a9fbd2d1367de64e-1572400405028-01244-E2Hg0fJa&terminal_id=72a34e7e0dac49a392ffd8d0ce91eee6 Wire loom actually needs to be extended , if you want underseat install. 5) Subwoofer will be Kenwood KBC-SW11 , but I do not have much info yet Any questions , suggestions - welcome! I am also will be happy if anyone share with me image of test disks for tuning DSP ( Pioneer have few different as example)

I did this myself today, was hard to get the bolt out without disassembling alot of stuff, but managable. The shavings were soft aluminium flakes from the middle cover and plastic from the top cover. The bolt was not too damaged, meaning it didn't drop many flakes of hard stainless steel. I guess I was very lucky that bolt didn't hit somewhere hard. But I did stop the engine as soon as I heard the knocking sound and never started it again until fully cleaned up. The bottom plastic cover has 3 top screws, but it partially lays behind the largest wheel that rotates the generator belt. So I could just bend the plastic in order to get the nozzle with compressed air inbetween, then used a small telescopic magnet to capture the bolt. It took a while, blowed at many different angles, and finally it got stuck. Then total cleanup with alot of compressed air again, moving the camshaft manually by hand, centimeter by centimeter. The belt looks good, so I'm skipping the replacement this time, don't really have 1500 euro to throw away right now. But yes, if the belt got damaged, then I might be fu*ked up at some point 🤦‍♂️ Also contacted local VW dealer here in Sweden, asked if there were any recalls on this issue - nope, nothing on recall or guarantee list. Fu*k them! =)

OK, thread revival time. I never did get round to investigating the horrid noise. Anyway, as luck (for her) would have it, I volunteered to take it for MOT to the garage near where I work as we all use this garage (Magna Carta, in Egham). It failed the MOT due to CV boots, usual MOT thing aren't they! anyway, so the chief mech in there, Chris, top bloke, told me off the top of his head, the alternator pulley is shot. I bought a tool to do the job, bought a pulley, replaced the alternator pulley, the noise has gone.

Excellent thank you, I assume a 1m cable like you linked will do?

For factory look no need anything more. That black ring holds the gaiter to stay up,the factory plastic knob is **** (i throw it away in few hours when i bought my Felicia). Cover the plastic frame with gaiter,push gently down and ''click-click'' the job is done. I have done a lot of work in mine (aftermarket gaiter-screws-chrome plate-decoration corde-different knob-patent with a screw to hold it very steady etc), do not mess with the same project,lot of effort-time and extra money.

I have the 2.0 TSI. Never left thinking that I could do with a few more BHP. However if it's mpg you are chasing don't buy one. Local trips about 35mpg. Long steady motorway, A roads etc I get 45+mpg. As I only do about 7k miles per year I'm not too bothered about mpg. Of the 7k miles probably about 2.5k is towing a caravan when I get 30 - 32 mpg which is pretty good.

Try unplugging the EGR valve to see if the car stays running longer than 5 minutes Got the below from AI Critical Components to Check Relay 458 (E-Box): In the engine bay fuse box, Relay 458 is the main power supply relay for the ECU. If this relay has high resistance or burnt contacts, the ECU will have enough power to "talk" to a tester but not enough "current" to actually fire injectors or hold relays closed. The "5V Reference" Collapse: If a sensor like the Camshaft Sensor or EGR Valve has an internal short that only occurs when hot, it can pull down the ECU's internal 5V rail. This causes the ECU to cut fuel and "glitch" without storing a code, as the fault occurs in the hardware power management layer before the software can register an error. Injector Loom (Common 1.9 TDI BXE Fault): The wiring loom inside the cylinder head (submerged in oil) is a notorious weak point. While it usually causes a misfire code, a short-to-ground in this loom can occasionally "trip" the ECU's safety shutdown, causing it to kill the fuel pump and injectors simultaneously to prevent damage. Recommended Next Steps The Heat Test: While the car is running, use a hair dryer to carefully heat the ECU case. If the car dies much faster than 1–5 minutes, you have confirmed an internal ECU hardware failure. The Cold Start Bypass: If you can immediately restart by jumping the fuel pump relay but the engine still won't fire (even if the pump is running), it confirms the ECU is refusing to pulse the injectors. Scope the Crank Signal: Even though the sensor is new, check the signal at the ECU pins (not the sensor) when the stall happens. If the signal vanishes there but the sensor is fine, the issue is the ECU's internal processing of that signal.

I haven't bought a 2m USB C cable for this, just using the shorter one that I use at the front ash tray. You open the ash tray as normal and then at the top push in (does take a little force) and it drops down and some out from the bottom, the right side pops upwards at the bottom with the left side retains so when putting back put the left side in first.

sounds like power is being cut from the ecu before a code can be recorded

On the Fabia estate, that steel plate is usually a protective cover and can be removed when fitting a tow bar. Most aftermarket kits use the factory mounting points behind it. Skoda dealers can also supply OEM-style kits, but they are often more expensive than good quality third-party options.

Very freely available in many posts on Briskoda (this) website somebody put it up and I've reposted it a good number of times. Unfortunately I saw it after and not before my wife had paid out £429 for the replacement from the conning robbing b*stards at out local VWŠkoda Dealership. The Technicial Bulletins (or whatever they call them) are well hidden but can be very good to get your hands on with secret (non) Recalls and knowing issues but still conning customers to pay for the repair. Good luck. It's a pity people in the UK didn't get together to get the money back on the belt and other scans but that's how it is here which is why the likes of VW know they can get away with stuff here they can't elsewhere.

Where did you manage to get that from? Thank you for this!

Been able to this today, thanks to @Binx1310 about the wiring etc. Able to use the tail from the socket I picked up off ebay and use the step down to connect to this and then the other end to USB socket that I had installed last year. Just had to route it in the car but wasn't too bad using a bit of cable to route from the back of the ash tray up to the inner of the arm rest.

I can get 40 mpg utilising lift and coast and free wheeling when safe to do so, cruise control does not get anywhere near these figures (2014 Fabia 1.4 tsi VRS) it will be helped as I use 99 ron fuel If I drive in a spirited manor I can get it circa 17mpg 😅

You should be aware that the advertised fuel economy figures are not derived from actual driving conditions. Using Cruise Control will not usually give you the best fuel economy.

Very much horses for courses. 1.0 TSI engine is much better than many imagine, 1.5 TSI can be very economical but it’s unusual Miller cycle design requires perfect engineering and set up, 2.0 TSI is pretty quick but naturally thirstier than the other 2 especially around town and on short journeys? The diesels are really better suited to high mileage users 15k plus per annum.

A Google image search shows it's behind the solid block in the centre of the upper grille below the Skoda badge on a facelift (i.e. 2017 onwards) Mark 3.

Probably / possibly behind grill or skoda emblem. You should conduct or arrnage a full module scan first, if not doing yourself, ask for diagnosis of the problem - as the ACC will de-activate with most engine faults even those you may not notice and in some cases do not turn on EML.

Thanks for all the comments. I now have a service booked for next week. The service guy on the phone proposed himself that I should go on a test drive with a mechanic and he will book a mechanic waiting for me. So that's very good that I didn't have to ask for it. I'm in Finland. Let's see. Hopefully this time the sound will be present.

Had you considered taking the seat out and removing the covers to find the break and repairing? I did this when I had my range rover p38. The breaks are usually easy to find due to scorch marks.. I just soldered in fresh bits of wire and it worked a treat...

I think they prize apart but you have to be careful of springs/plastic etc. You could try wd40 as well but if its not repairable then perhaps one from a vehicle dismantler. https://rrr.lt/en/search?q=5J6857496&exact=1 They send to sweden but you may be able to source one locally cheaper.

Yes, I'd change them before you hit 50,000 miles.

From what I know, EA288 uses a low-pressure EGR system that draws exhaust gases from after the DPF. This means the recirculated gases are cleaner (soot filtered out), which significantly reduces intake and valve carbon deposits compared to the older EA189 and PD engines. And with the twin dosing SCR in the newer generation EA288 Evo engines, the carbon build-up should be reduced even more. PS: I had similar concerns when I was about to purchase my current Scout TDI 147kw with EA288 Evo engine due to the lack of availability of the petrol version for this trim, in the period I did the order.

Hey Cristian, appreciate you sharing your experience. It was nothing like that in my case, was driving the usual daily commute with phone navigation off. I will let you know what comes out of the dealer, but I suspect they won’t be able to do much if this is a factory/design problem. Cheers

Pop the bonnet and look for leaking fuel. No smoking!

It's been using more oil for me, about 1l/1000 km. In the spring, when school is over, I'll take a look at the engine, I want to fix it. It's been using more oil for me, about 1l/1000 km. In the spring, when school is over, I'll take a look at the engine, I want to fix it.

Link to MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 sent in PM. Unfortunately I don;yt know any CarPlay and Android Auto activator for it.

This sort of thing - check out the pics.

Did you check the gap? In any case, dying plugs may kill the coil pack when it finally gives up. £60 is pretty cheap preventative maintenance. 45K miles is enough.

Changed the oil today - thank God there is T25 torx you can unscrew on EA288 Evo engines, to move the lower water pump away of the oil filter draining path. So much easier and less messy compared to previous EA288. I’ll try to stick with 10k kms or 350 engine hours between oil changes. I’ve put Ravenol 0w30 VSW this time. Last time dealer used Shell 0w30 AV-L. Both are great oils, no complains.

Greeting from north! Both Superbs resting in garage for a while. Outside temperature is about -30C during nights. Older one is 2011 2.0 tdi/dsg/Elegance which I bought new and newer is 2.0 tdi/dsg/4mo L&K with every option available at that time. I should sell the older. It has been standing now one year without usage...

Only the 280bhp has 340mm vented fronts and 310mm vented rears. All the others have 312mm vented fronts and solid 300mm rears. If you have Electronic parking brake you need something like OBD11 or VCDS to put the rears into service mode and then you push the caliper piston back, don’t wind it. Winding can mess up the mechanism and the caliper then needs a full strip down to reset it. Not guaranteed but def official advice on that one. Only when completely finished do you then take out of service mode before applying handbrake (although please check all that bit in case I’ve misremembered etc).

Good for you on resisting the temptation to start! I puked up after my first cigarette at around 14 years old...and was hooked...the perfect drug... I was trying unsuccessfully to give up, but thankfully I met my wife 26 years ago...she batted her eyelids and told me I didn't have to give up if I didn't want to...and I gave up overnight 😅 Have a great weekend all! Cheers, Nick

The best habit about smoking is to never start! When I was proposed my 1st cirgaret at around 11 yeras old, I immediatly tought to my dad's big hands with his thick fingers 😱 and I just said: No, thanks! I thank him so much! 😘😁 Good job @CubbyQ!

I doubt you'll find one anywhere on a 2018 car, and even if there is one, it almost certainly won't include front brake PR code. Message me with your VIN and I can look it up for you.

I finally kicked the habit after 45 years some 10 years ago. I was never a heavy smoker but a combination of willpower & 0% nicotine vapes got the job done. I'm off the the vapes as well now. When I was smoking I always had the drivers window open to exhaust the smoke & ash. Not sure if it made a huge difference because smokers can't seem to smell smoke!! Then my company banned us from smoking in company cars so I had to stop smoking in the car which hastened my decision to pack it in & get a private car to avoid company car tax. Only downside of not smoking was the weight gain, due to an enhanced appetite!! Not sure I could even afford to smoke these days!!

Works fine in my 2019 Skoda Fabia III FL with MIB2GP). One remark: to connect using Windows 10, I also had to install the CH341WDM driver (it’s included in the NeoProgrammer V2.2.0.10 “Drivers” folder). Thanks a lot!

Correct, adding glycol to water actually lowers the specific heat capacity of the coolant.

I dont think the concentration of coolant helps cooling at all. Water is the best cooling medium due to its enormous specific heat capacity, but we mix it with glycol etc to prevent freezing and corrosion of cooling system. The mix also inhibits boiling to some degree but that is largely due to a pressurised cooling system. Really diluted coolant probably cools the best

Maybe the New Dacia petrol estate coming out later this year will be worth checking out.

If you press both at the same time does it take a screenshot? :))

Yes, but it can't be patched via SD, it requires unit to be open and soldered in order to change some files in EMMC. Nope, you need 3Q0035466A or 81A035223. I have one, if you are interested pls contact me on PM with your offer. Yes, it's the same

Cars been into the dealers this morning, for 1 hr so they have done nothing... I told them it was a water leak at point of contact so seems like it was booked in wrong. All they did was get it up on a lift for a vehicle health check, give me a list of things that need sorting. Including a passenger side window regulator! So back in it goes next Thurs for what should of really happened today. All the interiour is coming out and they will do a leak test (£624). Then the costs to fix whatever they find on top. 3 or 4 days with them i guess. Hopefully the window regulator will be covered under the extended warranty i took out, they said its noisy and likely to fail soon. Can't say i noticed that one. I have no choice but to let them get on with it, i can't really deal with it here and nobody else locally would take it on. Which i totally understand. So i get the feeling that the life of these mk3's is around 7 years before stuff starts failing, but i know it all comes down luck really. I think the starter motor is also getting noisy as been hearing a quick grinding noise on cold starts or after been sitting about for days. Mileage on mine is around 36K now i think.

PS - and I believe the fuel filter is integral with the fuel pump.