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The little red nugget has hit a milestone...

Thanks for the helpful responses. I will get it changed at the next service.

A few from today. Thought the Great Tit was being optimistic!

I wouldn’t worry about that centre screw looks impossible to fit and remove when you do the filter clean. Pics of the cupra st. Vz3. 333hp. Carbon sabelts and 6pot akebono calipers 374mm disc

Took the wheel and inner lining off to access the pump. The filter was glogged up so cleaned it out and replaced but it didn’t make any difference. Upon examining the pump it self it was extremely rusty so replaced it and all was back to normal.

Hi Warrior193. Weather is warm in the 30's most days. Fan appeaes to be working, stop start works, and water was added when cooled down some..

Hello all, That's my 2019 Skoda Octavia L&K away. Its been emotional. The car was sat on the driveway 99% of the time, so its time it went to a new home. I will be visiting less often, but that doesn't mean I will completely disappear. The thing that spooked me; it had a Skoda warranty and repaired as such, but air conditioning compressor had failed, and the front calliper had failed. That bill came to £2500 for Skoda Financial Services. Its almost a 7 year old car. Somebody will enjoy it - it will probably be advertised online soon. I've had a MK2 Octavia Scout [Barnie Rubble/Trouble], a MK3 Octavia Scout [Hewie], a MK3 Octavia VRS TSI 230 [Red Run], a MK3 VRS TDI190 [probably my favourite VRS - it sat on the autobahn for 12hrs doing 130mph all day - didn't miss a beat] a MK3 Octavia 4x4 VRS [less said on that one the better], a MK3 Octavia Scout TDI190 [Silver] and my Octavia L&K TSI190 [UJE]. I'm taking a break from Skoda ownership for now. I've also got a personalised numberplate for sale too.

No idea, I didn't go that deep. Also never saw MU which start with 0, usualy starts with 8 or 7.

It's not necessarily safe to assume that a garage mechanic knows what is required - especially where a particular vehicle may not be familiar to them. There are often specialist tools or procedures required to perform certain service functions, not all mechanics or garages have that knowledge.

Yup! Exact same early days symptoms of a sticking egr

Right I went for a drive this afternoon so increased them temp a couple of degrees every couple of minutes. Cycled through ice cold up to toasting hot nicely. The horrible creaking sound on startup has gone so I’m guessing that’s the flap not stuck anymore. The basis settings trouble codes are still there. I ran an adaptation from carscanner and it cycled through all the settings. Trouble codes still there. Recirc button definitely changes airflow sound and volume so I’m confident that works as it should. There’s no noticeable sound or airflow difference changing from face to feet. And closing all the top vents doesn’t seem to increase the airflow to feet either. But it’s about 70:30 face to feet and I’m comfortable with that. So I’m going to leave it as is for now and maybe look at changing the actuator at some point for the main diverter. Will have a look at the manual and see how involved the task is. Thanks for the help @Danoid

It could be either, I don't know if there's an easy way to distinguish between the two failures - but probably better to replace the easiest first (master cylinder if fitted with concentric slave) It's quite possible that the Mk2 is not fitted with concentric slave cylinder.

I have replaced my hid bulbs, I suppose they were stock ones. Philips Xenstart old ones. Osram Night Breaker 220 new ones. Light was tested at the same road, 1 day difference, same headlight settings and same camera manual settings. So comparison is valid, not amplified with camera auto settings. Upper old Lower new Left is main beam Right high beam

TSI is far better suited to short runs than TDI, but they will benefit from regular longer trips. Perhaps a MPI would be better suited to you if very short runs are almost sole use - but engine wear is greatest in the first 5 to 10 miles of any trip, regardless of fuel type. The main issue with TDI short runs is DPF not being regenerated sufficiently.

Android auto is useful for gps and music. I find the sound better than tha standard bluetooth. Maybe something to do with the sound level. On the other hand, speach récognition is a hastle. I think it's an Android issue as carplay is flawless. You speak and it just hangs for 20 seconds and records only half of what you say. I recently got an iPhone for work and dont have this issue on it

Worth a look. “Emergency call restricted, workshop” Warning in Skoda cars

Wow, this coming from a VW engineer? Very very interesting. This issue is either from misinformation, not caring for the vehicle or from greediness of the official service.

Hmm so the jam has gone, is it behaving better now or still same issue? Wonder if you need to set the temps low then gradually high a few times to make sure all is good If not then your motor could be failing This is on a gold but going to be similar ish https://youtu.be/N9efnNxtntA At the end of the video he’s turning it hot and cold, check yours is behaving the same too Check the comments on that video from someone called tommot22, he fixed his issue another way but don’t understand it 🤪

Can’t see the logic in having to input a separate name to ‘save’ for a new destination, which I want to use in future as a ‘favourite’, if the name or location has already been input and accepted through ‘search’. Surely ‘save’ already knows the name of the destination I wish to retain as a ‘favourite’. I think I’ll just do some more fiddling with the nav system and hope I’ll hit on the correct prod sequence, but thanks for your help and advice ‘SteveTheElder’. Certainly not a case of ‘If all else fails, read the instructions’. I really do find them near useless.

It's a plastic tank with a metal pressure cap. As to Bugrat you're on the right lines(is) with a dune buggy, this is what it looked like in 2007 when I last owned it

This is another reason the cooling package needs uprating: Octavia 2.0 tdi (remap to 190) So you're towing with what is effectively a 190TDI with the basic 150TDI cooling package.

Once you get a larger oil cooler/rad etc it may be adviseable to change oils as running at 140C I reckon will degrade it pretty quickly. Alasdair

These lovely comfort temperature gauges for more than 20 years now will read a rock steady 90C between 75C and 107C, your coolant might actually be up around 105C so worth checking it with a scan tool both with and without the towing load in case its something as simple as a thermostat.

The real issue with this fault is that there are several possible causes. I have posted on this subject many times as Skoda suggested several possible solutions and it seems difficult to diagnose which will be successful. After being initialy told that it was probably the switch between continental phone providers, and me telling them that it happened in the UK as well, it changed to faulty aerials. I had four new aerials, and it still persisted. I was told, some time between the aerial changes that it needed a software update with also failed to cure the issue. Eventually last autumn, after the issue had persisted since summer 2023 (iirc), a fairly long investigation concluded that it was a faulty cable connecting something near the back bumper to something else at the front of the car. Even this became an issue as the part number that Skoda Tech supplied turned out to be a cable approx 4 metres too short. Eventually the dealers had to make one up. So it allseems well now. We've not used the car much since but thankfully it is now seems OK. I don't write this to worry other owners. I just want to point out that there are many potential ideas about what the cause of the issue is. The only potentail cause I have seen online that has not been mentioned to me is a failure of of the control unit. Luckily for me the entire issue has been covered by my warranty and extended warranty so the only cost to me has been the inconvenience of taking the car in and collecting again and the time that it has taken, with at least 2 visits taking a week in the workshop. As it was a fault, they comped the loan cars.

Some good replies in here already. IMO you are going to need to add a oil cooler very quickly. Those temps are not good. You could try replacing the existing oil cooler but unless it is blocked, it will make no difference. If uou monitor coolant temp with a diagnostic tool for temp 1 you will find it is increasing as well, but not as much as the oil temp. The temp guage is always BS in terms of actual temps in recent VAG vehicles!!

I think it was all cameras at the same time. Though since I ran an OBD11 scan, and fixed errors, it hasn't happened again...yet!

Are you sure the display is oriented correctly after assembling the unit? There might be something inside the connector or a similar issue. You should also check the system with ODIS or VCDS for any errors and confirm whether you can access the infotainment module. That will give you feedback what might be causing the problem. When soldering, make sure the EEPROM chip is oriented correctly. Check carefully that no legs are shorted and that every single pin is properly soldered. You need to use a magnifier to inspect the solder joints thoroughly.

I never have to resync the Keys. 4 MQB Cars at Home

So, huge update here... ITS FIXED! I recieved the gateway module back this afternoon and put everything back as it should... started the car and everything seems to be working fine again! So it was definitely the gateway module that was knackered. The only lights on the dashboard now are the airbag light and the bulb warning light (i was expecting the bulb warning light as the levelling sensors are knackered) So all seems good now! Just need to try and reset the airbag light and sort the levelling sensors for the headlights, then get her booked in for MOT! HAPPY ROB 😁

It doesnt sound right but cant work out what the noise may be. Might be worth getting it checked with vcds. I read that it can detect a stretched chain etc and may ping up fault codes/bad injector etc. Alasdair

Ah, the famed "diagnostic" I've seen number ranging from £150 to £250. Frankly it's BS unless they offer to get to the bottom of the problem. I've experienced the "that SHOULD fix the problem" only for it to recur a few weeks later. Now I ask for written assurances and a warranty.

Hi thanks for your replies. Although we are handy with fixing almost anything, this, as you say is a job with the odd booby trap. I have found a place on-line (eBay) that will replace the case and supply a new battery - all for c£27 + your postage for sending, I might go down that route, they have good feedback and also an external website and have been in business for 30years. Will post an update one I decide!

I just got part number - 3Q0121205. If you ebay this loads come up! My car is a 2018 150tdi but they should be the same.

I have superb 2.0 tsi 272hp, opf version without MPI. Stock fueling is fine for 450+ HP. My goal was to go above stage 1, but keep car euro emissions compliant. Option to put downpipe without opf was not acceptable to me, that's why I decides to go for pmax and keep stock exhaust. We will see the end result soon. I installed everything by myself, tune will be done remotely using simos tools. I have one step colder sparkplugs, and I removed snow guard from the airbox. That's basically all the mods I have done. Inside I installed digital cluster, I didn't like old style analog dash, it's very ugly and outdated to me.

It is always difficult to let go of a car that has been part of your daily life, even if it was not driven often. Repairs like an AC compressor and brake caliper can be costly, especially as vehicles age. You made a practical decision. Hopefully your next car brings reliability and a more active driving experience.

Enjoy your break from Skoda and wish you well on your next vehicle purchase.

This will sort your issues. I'm going to put one on my 2017 Scout https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-front-mounted-engine-oil-cooler-kit-for-2-0-tdi-mk7-platform-engines.html?srsltid=AfmBOooTcG9YpOyE_3U-_SL3TBUIkzojxJTmR30dsUUiOxA1pOhLMkmH

This August 2023 BRISKODA thread discussed removal of the small drop-down storage-box so that the fuse-box behind it can be accessed. You'll see that I initially misunderstood what was being asked about and provided instructions on how to fully lower the glove-box (on the passenger side) so that the cabin air-filter can be replaced. And (like you) when I tried to remove the little storage-box, I was unable to do so. The advice in this May 2025 discussion goes into much more detail and, since then, I've removed the storage-box several times. I start by lowering the storage-box so that the plastic 'hooks' on the base of the storage-box unit align with their plastic 'hinges' on the bottom of the dashboard opening. I then grasp the right-hand side of the storage-box firmly and forcefully wrench the right-hand corner of the storage-box straight out. This detaches the right-hand hook from its hinge and the left-hand hook should then easily come free. (You do need to be brutal and abrupt, but however hard you pull the box it's unlike to cause damage.) To put the storage-box back, I line up the plastic 'hooks' and 'hinges' and give a a firm whack on each side of the storage-box to drive each hook into its hinge. This January 2026 thread may also be of interest as I included a photo of my car's dashboard fuse-box and commented The fuse-box on RHD Fabia Mk 4 cars (and possibly on LHD cars too) is set far back, many of the micro-blade fuses are close together and accessing the fuse-box is through a quite small hole in the dashboard panel. So, unless you have a tame octopus and have trained it to manipulate Skoda's fuse-puller tool, it's far simpler and easier to use needle-nose pliers instead.

This is due to the electronic system 'priming' itself for immediate operation. It's called the 'Hydraulic System Control' unit and it is checking brake pressure to ensure correct operation of collision avoidance systems and auto hold. It is perfectly normal and I suspect it is prevalent across the entire Skoda range of models.

I’ve got carscanner app and this module https://amzn.eu/d/04FdvU9n Don’t think boot close can be coded on this. I would like to have that too. It would appear that there is options for long coding which might let you do it but I’ve not been brave enough to venture into that menu.

Pre-existing faults notified are faults no matter how long it takes the dealer to fix them. The law is clear on this point.

Hello Bud, Ill explain the whole process in one go. Step 1:First thing I did was look for a replacement module. The module which you want is your convinence control module the one you have currently with central locking (not remote) should be 5J0 959 433. The module you need is 5J0 959 433 A. Check eBay I picked one up second hand for about £30. Once you’ve got the new module Step 2: Locate the old module Yours will be in the same place as mine as I’m in uk too. Assuming you have a RHD its above the clutch pedal. Step 3: Remove the old module You need to remove some lower dash and I found that pushing the fuse box out next to the OBD Port gave me much better access. It’s an absolute pain to get to and get out. Unless you’re small with small hands. I pried mine out of the housing it’s sat in then you need to unclip it from the connection. Has two clips. Step 4: Plug New Module in I thought it would require coding via VCDS but it’s plug and play. Your car will recognise it immediately. I recommend you get the VCDS software as well as the Hex cable as you will need it to program your remote key. Step 5: Pair new remote key The Fob you need is part number 1J0959753DA. I got mine off Amazon for £14. Make sure it’s the right fob or you won’t be able to pair it to the car. To pair the key to the car I found the tutorials for vag remote keys did not work I.e placing in door and turning etc. I used the VCDS software. You need to go to the Central conv module. Go to adaptions and remote key adaption. The default value will be 1 change it to 2 and press save. Click the unlock button on the fob for about a second straight after and you should hear a slight click. That’s how you know it’s worked. For the middle boot button programming if it’s not done by default which was the case for me I had to go to central electrics module on VCDS and go to the remote key boot option and enter the value and save. I just did 3. So I hold the button for 3 secs and it opens. That’s it. You have remote central locking.

So I fixed the issue and I want to share how I did it 😁 I bought new part. Factory installed module V426 was number 5Q0907511A but part available in official distribution currently has new number 5WA907511C (note, that I write about part for Denso HVAC unit). Removing the dashboard is not required to replace V426/V428 module (in LHD vehicles) although the official service manual begins with this step. Access to this part is possible from the bottom - under steering column or as you prefer: above pedals. If you want to do that without removing the dashboard you should remove knee airbag (mounted on 3 torx screw) and next: remove left footwel vent (mounted on only one torx screw). You don't must unplug knee airbag, you just need to unscrew it and rest against on the center tunnel. When you remove this two parts, you get access to problematic servomotor. Be very careful when removing screws from V426, because when they fall, it will be very difficult to locate and remove them. With the screws removed, you remove the module from the climatronic mechanism axis, and then you need to unplug the plug - a small screwdriver may be useful, but there's not much space to work with both hands. In fact there is no space, so you have to work in a truly paralytic position. When you disconnect the plug, the module is ready to be removed. I have one advice for you: before you start unscrewing the module, restore power to the car and turn on the ignition. Next, turn on the ventilation and switch the airflow directions (face, feet, windshield) looking in front of the removed footwell vent, watch if the flaps inside the HVAC unit moves when you click the buttons on the air conditioning panel. In my case, the flaps were dead. Mounting new part - now the true play starts. Step one: connect the plug to new module but not try to mount it yet. Next: turn on ignition and try to choose combination of climatronic switches to set up new module in position which allows to to mounting its on axle of HVAC unit (in other words: you have to set the new motor in the same position as the old, disassembled module was in) When the axle and new part is synchronized, you mount servomotor on the place. Then you screw the motor with two screws: at the bottom and top. Installing the top mounting screw is dramatically difficult. Putting the top mounting screw is so heavy because there is no space at all to grab it with even two fingers. A moment of inattention and the screw drops, and its find is another challenge. When you screwed the motor with the two screws, turn on the ignition and check the flaps again during switching the airflow direction on the air conditioning panel. In my car the flaps came to life. You will also need to perform adaptation and read errors from the HVAC controller. The adaptation can be started on the air conditioning panel - turn on the airflow: to the windshield, to the legs and to the face vents, and then press "AC" + "front vents" buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. When its finish again check errors in HVAC module and clean them. If adaptation was finished correctly errors shouldn't back. During adaptation you can observing via left footwel vent that flaps are working right. At the end you mount again footwell vent and knee airbag and are you going for a test ride to testing that HVAC works right. If you unplugged battery you should also make test ride for few km's, next check and clear faults in all car modules. In authorized Skoda service center in Polad repair of this issue costs about 450 EUR (with dashboard and central tunnel removing). I repaired myself this fault for the price of about 70 EUR 🤭 However a lot of self-denial is required for made it. Good luck 😁 and sorry for my English...

I did RTFM, you may have the setting but my last 3 vehicles have not had it, I can change it with VCDS. RTFM'ing for a decade on the MK1 Octavia would not have made the slightest difference, nor the MK2 nor the Yeti. It was incredibly frustrating to eventually find out what was happening and that I had not been going mad.

Hi all, new to group and first time postet from Aus... Have a issue arisen with our 2018 superb wagon just arisen.. late last night our au pair was using the car and got stuck in a traffic jam apparently sitting in standstill with car idling away not moving for around 1hr. The car overheated and now the cooling system doesnt appear to be circulating and when hot overpressuring the coolant resurvoir and releasing coolant. Temperature on gauge doesnt appear to go over 90deg.. im thinking the thermostat may have shat itself but it has thrown a couple of codes P188900 P011700 P00B700 P16C700 P11A300 P164E00 U112300 Any help or ideas appreciatted and any recommendations on suitable links to workshop manual.. At this point im leasing towards thought on replacement waterpump with housing and thermostat... Thanks James