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Evening guys I'm buying a octavia vrs limited edition mk2 pre facelift 2.0tdi apparently 1 of 500 pre facelift diesels sold in the uk. 172k miles and very clean. Does £1800 sound good and how desirable would you say it is. Plenty of mk2 facelift models with the 2.0 tdi and only 1 pre facelift diesel advertising on auto trader

I'd suggest just topping up with correct coolant and monitoring the level closely. Very likely it's been low for quite a while and might not actually be leaking. Really a basic precaution to check engine fluid levels at least weekly.

nope same everything, just different tune and gearbox, i've tuned my cbza to 140 bhp with a non completely healty gearbox (MFX) bit of whining noise diff noise, all gears whining, so tuned and Yokhoama semislick (ad08rs) destroyed the gearbox (due also to vibration from all bushing in polyurethane 90 shore koni yellow hard race brace and other things) so, I've used an LMG gearbox that is a standard one for the 105 bhp cbzb same bolt pattern same starter motor same clutch and flywheel same driveshaft the lot just different shaft bearings and stiffer component in the gearbox (I can tell you 100% sure because was all DIY done by only me) i can provide you a couple of vin sourced from junkyard of fabia with cbza and cbzb so if you look on skoda-parts.com you can check te various parts

Em oot o here as well until there is more truth and less guff.

Running the oil to the correct temp and then doing the drain of the new oil until the correct level is set before tightening things up is mega important. Was the Oil Filter replaced in the DQ381?

Ahh yes, fair point @Bap33 ! This is exactly what they did - on DQ250 (DSG6) there is only 1 drain plug as you say. So most likely mechanic assumed this DSG box is the same and drained only the clutches part oil . Here is a picture from google showing both drain plugs https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/comments/1qihx4q/can_someone_confirm_the_location_of_my_7_speed/

Shock absorber bolt https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n10628301-screw-m12x1-5x90-skoda-22120.html Knukcle bolt (circled in red) https:///spare-part/n10640501-screw-m12x1-5x80-skoda-23557.html Source https://skoda.7zap.com/en/europe/ and www.skoda-parts.com Also, I believe that the spring compressor isn't needed. Once you loose the two bolt the control arm will just lower itself, my advice is to place a trolley jack under the arm loose the tension on the bolts (like said before), remove them and lower the jack, the spring will come out, place the new spring and jack it up and bolt everything back.

It does warn about setting changes, had absolutely no issues with it, just needs a few settings tweaks afterwards. The sky is always falling in, especially on FB , being the very worst echo chamber of the painfully uninformed 🤦

About 35 psi. Some clown had fitted the wrong profile tyres to the rear before I bought it. 40's on front, 45's rear. I did wonder if that would affect the sensors and stuff but I can't imagine it would. It's only gonna be mm's difference.

Evri is increasing its own corporate fleet of electric vehicles and e-cargo bikes, particularly in London, Bristol, Oxford, and Cambridge.

This is a good Manual: https://glaskugelservice.de/codierung/ambientbeleuchtung But you need Ambient Basic Coding for this m an Manual I will Backup my Car for you

That's funny, I bought mine in September too and also changed the dsg thermostat! I've noticed those lines in the header tank really get effected by the road camber. I thought mine was low but it's just cos I topped it up when parked on other side of the road.

sorry to specify its a factory rally spec camshaft for skoda 120s rally cars that raced during the early 70s mine came from a 71 make rally car its def a 280/280 since it has a factory serial number stamped at the end of the camshaft. Honestly i dont mind losing a bit of bottom end RPM and i wouldnt mind crusing at 2000 to 2400 RPM on the street or suffering from bad fuel mileage since its not a daily more of a weekend or when i feel like it kind of a car.

Thanks @Warrior193 . I've topped it up and will keep an eye on it now but might also need to redraw the level lines on a side of the reservoir that I can actually see!!

^^^ Had to look to see it is a 2.0 TDI.

No, I was so outraged by the £300 odd increase that the guy couldn't explain I just told them not to renew and that I'm taking my business elsewhere. They didn't even try to improve the offer. The policy was due for renewal 2 days after the new car arrives so I already had a a renewal quote which I had negotiated down.

Hmm. I know, it's frustrating rather than life changing. If nobody else gets back to you sooner, I will test the system with our car which we are collecting on Monday, hopefully. It could be at the Skoda end or possibly at the permissions end of your phone (assume from your post that you are Apple? I am Samsung S25+ Android but Mrs A is Apple 16+, so I can test both). Your £50k statement made me smile. Our RR Velar was £71k back in 2017 and the ICT Pro software interface was glitchy for ages until the eventually got to about the tenth 'over the air update'. Anyway, maybe someone will get to you first with the answer but, if not, I promise to try and replicate the functionality next week. Should be fun, or not! Best wishes. PS. I have found ChatGPT Pro (not the free version but the enhanced subscription version) a bit hit and miss with any advice about software settings. Worth a go but often not definitive. Hope for us humans yet then!

Did you inform them of the lower quotes?

ok got it, if i can give some advice, (i don't know if you have done it yet), to remove the gearbox disconnect both driveshaft, you can remove just the shorter one (in UK the passenger side one), and start to loose all the gearbox housing bolts, do not remove them yet, remove the lover mount (pendulum mount) use an engine stand like this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F374957660842&ved=0CBkQjhxqFwoTCPi6lZ2ZnZMDFQAAAAAdAAAAABA-&opi=89978449 place and tight a ratchet straps around the gearbox be sure to not damage te reverse switch and attach it in one of the hook of the engine stand, the other hook place it in the engine 'holder' located btween the charge pipe and the tsi cover, remove the right upper gearbox mount, then remove the previous loseen bolt, then you will be able to move the gearbox eiggle it a bit just to fee it up, lower the hook of the engine and simultanusly lover the gearbox, from the passenger wheel well you will be abel to see the two bolt that old in place the gearbox mount, a black c shaped bracket, once removed you will be able to lower the gearbox lowering gently using the hook, to install is a reverse order, but for the c bracket, you will need to bolt in the gearbox first then lower the engine bolt-it back and you're good, for the clutch pressur plate you will need a 12 point socket, i'vw used this set: HASKYY https://amzn.eu/d/0ce3Z97n the pressure plate bolt are this one https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n90320701-clutch-screw-m7x14-germany-oe-producer-10902.html to lock the fly wheel i've used this tool BGS 9616

Well that failed at the first hurdle. My current insurer suddenly wanted £640 to insure the ID.3! Told them to foxtrot oscar. A quick confused.com later and the ID.3 is insured for £331 and the Citigo for £130. No longer on a multi-car policy but saved over £300 on the new quote for the ID.3 and Citigo from my existing insurer. I guess LV don't want my business.

Thanks for you help with this, I've collected my 2025 Sportline today 😄 (Rubbish photo as its raining!)

you're very welcome, for any needs feel free to reach out!

Thanks Jack, that's very helpful. Much appreciated.

Cheers. Confused of Worcester.

@lol-lol of course you're not on my blocked list, how could you be when we have had so many discussions together? We don't always agree with each other but we have never really argued or been disrespectful either. We all have views and opinions. So what on earth makes you think you're on my blocked list? The people who are on my blocked list could well be posting everyday here and I would not know anything about it, because I cannot see their posts, that is how it works. People should have the car that suits their requirements you have yours and I have what currently suits mine.

Don't understand the above comment. Am I on your block list or not ? Don't suppose it will get read if I am but others will see. Real problems us EV drivers put up with are, of course, Slower energy filling, which can mean needing a second EV as back up, pricey of course. Less filling sites but this is rapidly being addressed ie 2k new charger stations being added a month Expensive public charging. Lets expect a change to E VAT rate rather than S plus ECo levy removal to fix. The Chinese are technologically advancing at a stunning pace as seen by the introduction of BYD sub brand Denza. Probably going to be from £60K RRP so not cheap but since European CoTY start at nearly £50K ie Merc CLA -e, 250, 350 etc, clearly a market and with over 600 mile WLTP and looking good might get some buyers especially as running costs will be low. Top spec nearly 1000 hp and some models have the crab parking ! https://www.thesun.co.uk/motors/38411582/worlds-longest-range-ev-coming-uk/

thanks for the replys, decided to have a look this morning, switch tested ok, so i guessed the wireing was the issue and the main point of failure would be where it entered into the tailgate pulled the rubber down and theres a broken wire quick repair job and we are good to go again, theres another wire that looking dodge too so will keep and eye on that

24 models started being built in about July 2023, so it's entirely possible that a 73 plate is actually a 24 model year. You need to check the build date and/or the model year digit in the VIN to be sure.

I read the posts as people post them and read it as they mean it to read. I read some posting about things that do not show in posts. Maybe because they were deleted or because people try putting a spin on the post others put up.

@MartiniB v1.31.64 now available from Phonostar for MIB3. https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.64.zip

I know you've already got some, but for the benefit of whom may stumble across this thread in the future: Not OE but the Halfords raised rail R2 set fit super nicely on my Mk3 estate, and were only £80 for footpacks and rails.

Is the actual issue the HALDEX or the Rear Diff? Different things? But not unknown for someone servicing the Haldex and draining oil to drain the Rear Diff.

Odd having people blocked that appear to not be posting on here anyway. Many seem to be just ignoring this section because of others that seem to know about EV,s purely from 2nd hand information.

Mechanic still claims that he drain for both plugs... I've decided to do it again once comeback to home by myself. It's small cost comparing maintenance of whole gearbox. Thanks for feedback Thanks for photo!

Could be une of the two: 5E0 827 566 6V0 827 566 if you don't have a reverse camera however look here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-parts/fabia-3/boot%20switch.html use you vin number and you will have all the maching parts in your car (mechanical, electrical ecc.)

Sorry can't help on the part numbers, easy enough job though. Done this on our old VRS, I just used a trolley jack under the arm to release the spring tension...wasn't much tension. I never replaced the bolts either and had it in bits a few times, if you're mechanically minded and not a monkey then reusing these bolts isn't a problem.

thankyou, i think im going to have a go at repairing it myself, but waiting till its a little warmer does anyone have the part number for the switch at all?

Following on from my introduction I am pleased to join the ranks once again of Skoda ownership. My new car to me is a 2019 (69) VRS Tsi manual estate in graphite grey. The journey back from Peterborough was very comfortable and without drama. Let the faffing commence.

No worries, you'll have to excuse the mess, I'm a mountain biker and everything I own is covered in mud all winter.

I'd challenge it as being 'major', considering it took about 5 seconds to install! I work in IT, and I certainly wouldn't categorise it as a 'major' release!

Depends what you all mean by "to the top". If you fill the tank until the pump cuts out with the nozzle fully into the filler pipe then that is what you are supposed to do. You might call that "to the top". Now if, when the pump cuts out in the above scenario, you then pull the filler nozzle back and get a further 2-3 litres into the car and you call this "to the top" then you are asking for trouble. The fuel level is high enough that it could flow into the evap cannister. (Probably not an issue on a warm day if you are on a long trip and fill up mid trip. for sure a potential issue if you only drive another mile or two before parking the car.) From the Kamiq handbook: " Insert the fuel nozzle into the fuel filler neck up to the stop and refuel. › Do not continue refuelling after the fuel nozzle switches off. › Remove the fuel nozzle and put it back on the petrol pump." Also see information on petrol fuel filter around page 147

Kopacek is £35 with delivery. Found the part number on eBay for £20. I’ve got a big bottle of IPA I use to clean things down for stick on parts etc. Will give it a good clean with that too.

Either way, if you’re experiencing different behaviours, something doesn’t sound right.

Hello @Giannis20 , This OTA update is for OCU unit. Please see below related thread for more information: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537961-oru3-ocu-sw0311-octavia-o3a8/ Have you check the version was correctly installed(no weird DTCs are present) using an OBD11, VNCI or VCDS ? You can try a hard reset of both Telematics + MIB3 control units, by removing Fuses 19 & 30, leave it for couple of minutes then re-connect. Good Luck Cheers

Thank you! I found it fitting to add a list of currently compatible Skoda models to the OP, so that can be found at the bottom of the post. Gen5 Haldex introduces a lot more model variants like the Kodiaq and Karoq. Gen5 is still in development! We've got an Audi RS3 with Gen5 for a test car at the moment. Who said product development couldn't be fun? 😀

Have a good look at Autotrader for the price of new vehicles before going in, as there's a huge amount of stock sitting in the dealer network. The retail price of a new Karoq is far from being a bargain IMO, when you consider that things like the Varioflex seats are now a £1k option. You should be in a very strong position ahead of the 26 plates if you're prepared to take a 75. Obviously it limits options & colours but as a guide, I got £8k off an unregistered SEL Edition in June with very little effort, bar being willing to travel for the right car/deal. I doubt such discounts are available on bespoke factory orders, so could make that heated screen very expensive.

Hello all, I have found the comments in various threads very helpful in (eventually) updating the maps in my Karoq from 2018 to the latest '2025/26' version so I thought I would reiterate and run through the whole process here step by step whilst avoiding the pitfalls -- one or two of which I have myself encountered and overcome by patiently sifting through comments scattered throughout the forum threads. So, the summary steps: 1/ Go to the Skoda update portal and type in your VIN (doublecheck it!) and then click the 'search' magnifying glass. https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/en-GB 2/ It will bring up the latest map appropriate for your vehicle hardware -- whether Amundsen or Columbus -- so you don't even have to figure out which one you have. (Mine is Columbus). Download the offered file to a suitable directory on your hard disk. It is many gigabytes in size so depending on your internet speed (and how much Skoda servers bottleneck the many downloads they have to cope with) it may take many minutes to several hours. (For me it took 2hrs - after a first attempt which failed - note if your computer goes into sleep mode, it may not resume download after waking). It will be a zipped file. 3/ Prepare a memory device (SD card or USB stick) to transfer the files to the car. NB! Here lies one of the pitfalls which made mine fail the first couple of occasions. The Navigation hardware in the car is VERY FUSSY about the file format used on the transfer memory device. The memory device MUST have a file system with the 'default' or 'standard' cluster size. Manufacturers of different brands 'adjust' the cluster size when sold. For example, I had a 64gb SanDisk USB stick (a very reputable brand) which came with a FAT file system. Now, FAT file systems are not supposed to be used for memory devices larger than 32gb but SanDisk had adjusted the cluster size to make it work. My Windows 10 computer (and others) wrote and read from it fine, but the car Navigation hardware did not recognise or find any of the files on it and update failed. Hence the essential NEED to re-FORMAT your memory device. On Windows 10, this was automatically re-formatted to have the exFAT file system with the 'standard' cluster size etc. 4/ With the freshly Formatted USB stick or SD card, insert it into your computer and extract the zipped file you downloaded from Skoda to the root directory of the USB/SDcard. The extract function in the Win 10 File Explorer works fine to do this. There must be NO OTHER extraneous files on the USB/SDcard. The root directory of the USB/SDcard will now contain just 3 entries -- folder MiB1 (and its subdirectories), folder MiB2, and metainfo2.txt. Don't mess about with any of these files (-- but see other threads about !bad! Apple computers adding !hidden! extra bits to files which you have to remove). 5/ At the car, preferably first charge the car battery with an external charger till it has a good charge. If it has a RESTING voltage of at least 12.65v measured at the battery BUT at least 2-3hr AFTER everything has been switched off (not even opening a door - leave the bonnet unlatched for access) then it has a good state of charge (80%+). Any little current draw from a lead-acid battery will alter the voltage for an hour or two. 6/ Insert your USB/SDcard into the car, switch on the ignition and bring up the Navigation map screen. At the bottom of this screen select Settings. This brings up navigation settings, select Version Info, at bottom of Version Info you can now select 'Update-SD/USB'. It will then say 'searching for update files'. If you have done everything right so far, it will then offer you the version it has found on your USB/SDcard (....or frustratingly say 'no update files found'!) Select 'Next' and 'Software update in progress' will then run slowly and steadily from 0% to 100%. DURING this update, you can switch off the ignition and close the car doors -- but as another poster (Till) says, you must open a car door periodically at least every 15 min to keep the Nav and Infotainment system awake as it goes to sleep about 20min after the last door opening and the update will stop (temporarily). The whole upload to the SatNav in the car, for me, took 50min to finish. You could drive around in the car during this time but the update will probably take longer as the Infotainment system will also be tied up doing other things. Note that at 100%, there is a long pause where nothing seems to happen. This is normal. 7/ After 'Software update complete', select 'OK' & it will just return to the normal Navigation map screen. There was no need to 'reboot' or anything else - as some posters have reported. I hope this helps, and good luck!

not too bothered there only for the dogs 😂

Last few bits are arriving, got a second hand rad pack, real lucky with this and the rad support panel just arrived. just waiting on n/s driveshaft genuine (cost a bomb) one rad pipe from water pump to rad, one connector onto charge cooler, and rad mounts top and bottom. Not much left now insurance already swapped too, insured for 6k 😂 most expensive 62plate citigo out there