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13L/100km is 18 US mpg, in UK mpg that's about 22mpg which sounds about right for the 2.0 TSI in city driving.

I'm willing to be proven wrong but my understanding is that a change in "serial" number is important for the computer program to know that a new battery has been fitted, so one of us could have incorrect information. The "serial" number isn't really a battery serial number as I've seen on Briskoda that the factory entered the "serial" number as ten (or eleven?) ones (1111111111) and that as long as you have the same number of digits (/ character(s)) you can put what you want, most for example just increase the number so ten ones (1111111111) becomes nine ones with a two at the end (1111111112) as with the example for my wife's car below, or some just enter the date of new battery installation (26-11-2025) VW code for the battery manufacturer seems unimportant - and I'm not sure the need for three characters even matters as I had five characters entered and it doesn't seem to have made any odds after 4 years of daily use of the car. Below is from when a Briskoda member used OBDEleven to 'code' the change of battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia. - For those with access to VCDS Vrooom's notes.- VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf

I'm always suspicious when a garage quotes you for parts, then states that they can't guarantee that the fault won't return. I sounds like they're guessing what the fault might be and then fire up the parts cannon. As others have said, what fault codes were logged? It might be worth finding a VAG specialist or a specialist in ABS faults.

Hi @Bap33 , No, disconnecting the sensor triggered a new error - No communication with NOx sensor bank 1 sensor 3 , basically confirming the physical location of the sensor. Initially the error was implausible signal and it was intermittent, triggering every other 2 days , I didnt know which sensor to buy ( without going to the dealership and pay a premium on the part + labor + diagnosing the car ) . So in order to phyisically locate the sensor I did the following: Cleared all the errors on the car with VCDS ( but anyother good tester should work fine ) Went underneath the car and disconnected the sensor which I thought it is faulty With the sensor disconnected I started the car and scanned for DTCs now you have 2 options: a. If you disconnected the correct sensor, you would have the same error name but with a new description ( no communication - instead of - implausible signal ) b. If you disconnected another sensor, you would have another error; example : Particle Matter sensor - no communication - this means that you disconnected another sensor so you should plug it bag, clear the errors and then disconnect another sensor, until you get it right. Of course, first you have to do some digging and narrow down the area where the sensor is located. hopefully I answered your question, I do apologize for my English, it's not my first language.

Hi It could be a number of things from my experience but you need to find out which one is at fault. Abs sensor Abs rings on rear hubs corroded and breaking ( I’ve had that ) it’s a new hub. Fault on front passenger side, that was a pain. Turned out the harness between the sensor plug and Abs plug has a break in it somewhere. Good job my lad is good with electrics cos he figured it out, but that keeps coming back to haunt me with water getting in the join so looking at replacing that harness section if only I knew where it went 🙄 But as said you need to know which is at fault and yes you’ll get a code showing you fault everytime it faults putting the lights on the dashboard

That applies to most cars from 2010MY onwards, no one has yet, I think, built up enough data to support that not getting re-coding done saves or costs you more money over the life of that next battery - I just play safe or do as advised and always perform re-coding.

If they clear the fault codes then there will be none to read and lights will be off. If its a faulty abs/speed sensor it will create new codes every time it fails and lights come on. If the lights are on get it scanned with vcds. Dont clear any codes first. If its a bad sensor it should tell you which one. It could be a broken wire to a sensor or a failing ABS sensor. It could also be a bad bearing/sensor ring. Alasdair

Hi all, Sharing my experience with Marshall Škoda Dartford in case it helps other owners, especially anyone dealing with recurring faults or navigating the Consumer Rights Act. Vehicle & Initial FaultPurchased new: Skoda Kodiaq SEL August 2024 (£47,875) Fault description: The sunroof intermittently refuses to close. The force‑limiter triggers incorrectly, stopping the sunroof mid‑closure as if it has detected an obstruction. When this happens, the sunroof remains stuck open, and the control panel becomes completely unresponsive. The manual describes a force‑limiter override procedure, but in my case the override does not work. The only way to eventually close the sunroof is through multiple ignition cycles and repeated swipe attempts, after which it finally closes. First occurrence: November 2024 — within the first four months of ownership. When I first reported the issue, the dealership told me to contact Škoda Roadside Assistance rather than booking the vehicle in directly. Roadside Assistance confirmed the fault but could not repair it on‑site. Repair Attempts (Jan–Apr 2025)January 2025: First available workshop appointment. Diagnosis: motor replacement required, part on back order. February 2025: Loan car provided. Additional parts required (clip, control panel). Vehicle returned to me on 21 Feb — sunroof still not working. The dealership’s own driver confirmed the fault when delivering the car back. Car taken straight back for further work. Late Feb – April 2025: Motor replaced Control panel replaced Full sunroof frame fitted Car returned April 2025 Despite all this, the same fault reappeared in February 2026. Third Failure (Feb 2026)Sunroof failed again in February 2026. I requested a loan car and collection due to work commitments. First available appointment offered was 24 March, with collection/drop‑off initially refused. At this point, with the fault recurring for the third time, I exercised my Final Right to Reject under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Inspection Requests, Delays, Compliance Involvement & Independent Report IssueThis part became very inconsistent and prolonged: The dealership requested to inspect the vehicle to determine whether the recurring fault was linked to previous repairs. Shortly afterwards, they withdrew the request, saying the matter had been passed to their legal and compliance team. Compliance then passed the case straight back to the dealership, stating it was for the retailer to resolve — creating a loop with no progress. The dealership then reinstated the inspection request, saying they could not consider my rejection unless I allowed them to inspect the vehicle. I confirmed multiple times that I was willing to make the vehicle available and asked for loan car and collection arrangements. These arrangements were delayed for several days, despite assurances that details would be provided. Before the inspection took place, I provided the dealership with two precise hour‑and‑minute time windows covering both occurrences of the most recent failures, specifically so they could retrieve the relevant error codes from the system. March 2026: Vehicle finally collected and inspected. Dealer reported “no fault found.” Following this, the dealership stated: Because more than six months had passed, the burden of proof now fell entirely on me. They would only reconsider my rejection if I obtained an independent expert report proving the fault existed at delivery. They offered to contribute 50% toward the cost of such a report. Without this report, they would not accept my rejection and instead offered non‑statutory commercial options (market‑value purchase or part‑exchange). I declined the independent report, as the fault was first reported within four months and had been subject to three failed repairs, which is the basis of my Final Right to Reject under CRA 2015. The matter is now with The Motor Ombudsman. SummaryThis post reflects my personal experience of: A recurring fault first reported within four months Multiple failed repair attempts Long waits for appointments Inconsistent inspection decisions (requested, withdrawn, reinstated) Compliance passing the case back to the dealership Attempts to shift the burden of proof Pressure to obtain an independent report Non‑statutory commercial offers instead of CRA 2015 remedies Initial advice to contact Roadside Assistance rather than booking the vehicle in Providing exact time windows of the failure, yet still receiving a “no fault found” outcome I’m sharing this to help other owners understand what to expect and to provide context for anyone dealing with similar issues. Happy to answer general questions that might help others.

From the image, I doubt If that odd injector would even fit! Something more than a bit odd going on there, it doesn't even look the correct length to reach into the cylinder! If the cover is plastic, I'd try something like a plastic welding stick - or possibly an epoxy filler if the area is not required to be flexible.

That is why it still works using an extension cable from one side to a bulb on the other side. The current is still being monitored on the original right hand side.

Imagine if that happened a hundred miles or so away from home, I've never heard of a filling hose getting locked in the filler of an ICE car (just saying). I wonder if that was the result of a bodged over-the-air software update or software bug?

Is true indeed, that vrs gets unacceptable consumption, which has been noticed by many users and reviewers worldwide, while the main difference in every day acceleration from the tdi, is not that clear....obviously I am not referring to 9-100 that there is 1+ sec difference...but 4-5 liters differ, IS a big deal....

I had a problem with a sender float once, apparently the tank was all but empty. filling it from empty with the full volume petrol hose had bent the float causing a poor/non-existent signal.

Sorry to step in since I rejected my 204PS TSI, but I struggled to get more than 20mpg around town and 30mpg on a long run, even in Eco and driving sensibly. The 2.0 TSI is very thirsty and best avoided TBH. I would've gone TDI, but I only drive 4k miles per year and would've killed the DPF. I'm also now helping an ex-colleague reject his VRS as he gets 15/25mpg which is ridiculous. Are VAG looking at a petrol class action lawsuit this time around? Skoda are dire, so glad I got rid. Hit me up if you need to reject in the UK.

Not sure on the Yeti. Fabia is under rear seat so yeti may be the same. May be under a plastic cover. If the guage is working and then showing full randomly I would suspect a wiring short or broken wire. On some skodas fuel sender feeds direct to cluster and others via BCM. Think it depends on age. Alasdair

With 2 liter tdi 193 4x4, plus abt box 220 ps, I get roughly 6 l/100km on motorway with 120 km/h, and the same in urban style country roads with 90-100 km/h

2liter petrol 204 or 265?

Re Stellantis / Vauxhall Frontera. I met the driver of this NHS Fleet car last night then again this lunch time. The car has done 57 miles since delivered. He took his wife to show her how to charge it. That was Thursday evening. I asked why he was on the AC tethered, & that was because that looked the right charger head. Anyway charger stuck in Thursday and nobody could help. Not Charge Place Scotland who restarted the charger, not the RAC that did not Recognise the Car. Not the NHS Fleet people who were not on call. Anyway they were still waiting for Assistance from RAC at 3am and no local taxis were answering or coming out. A boy racer that came around took them home 15 miles for 20. Nobody came out or got back to him yesterday until evening which was when i met him, they never arrived. Appointment today for a Tech to come between 7am-12 pm. We were there at 1.00pm. No show. I could not help, i did not want to disconnect the battery under the bonnet. So i left him in the torrential rain waiting. Storm Dave just hit. We tried starting and stopping charger, using emergency stop etc. Locking unlocking etc. Ziltz success.

It could also be the sliders on which the caliper is mounted that are corroded/sticky. Cheap enough and easy to replace. By the way, it is not a metal to metal seal of the piston in the caliper, there is a rubber seal in the piston that actually makes the seal; any damage to that and you'll have a leak. Cleanliness is next to Godliness......😉

Yes I had this problem on my previous car after running into a pothole as well, but this car is brand new, with new rims and tyres. That's why it seems odd. Maybe the factory balancing is off, but next week i will take it back to the dealership for checking, and we will see what they say.

I got one from AliExpress for £4. Has worked flawlessly since day 1.

This had me baffled - I thought the fly was on my phone screen and was a bit bemused when I couldn't blow it away😳

Thanks once again to all involved in producing and distributing this database.

Have you tried the charger and iPhone in a different car? If the same result then deffo the charger or phone. Likewise try either a different charger (say, your home one) and if ok then the phone is ok so it's the charger. "Process of elimination"!

Neighbour just had the same problem on his Mitsubishi 4x4. Just back from garage for service and MOT then dash lights like a Xmas tree with numerous warnings re ABS,Steering,4x4 and a lot more. I got called to look and told him to get garage to scan/check sensors etc. Bad clip that holds sensor in bearing plus new bearing as the old one was totaled trying to remove. Back to new again. Alasdair

Hopefully a glitch. I would monitor it and maybe keep an eye on trip mileage in case the guage/wiring is faulty and showing more fuel than you have. If it happens again I would check wiring from sender backwards. Alasdair

Stage 2 really needs you to start upgrading hardware and using Super Unleaded.

I’m not sure why a rocker cover should be so hard to get hold of. Are you looking for new or second hand? Can it be repaired? How old is the car?

Recoding enables the energy management system to take into account the new battery state. For instance, if your old battery was only able to deliver, let’s say 85% of its initial state when you removed it, AFAIK if you don’t recode the system, your new battery won’t get higher than these 85%of the old one. This is why recoding makes sense, especially if you install one with a bigger autonomy (78Ah instead of 76Ah if I remember well).

I’d check the wheel balance

So I won’t be using my car for a couple of days so this is what I’ve done. Zeroed byte 18&19 to remove the lumbar support error. Got two bongs. Checked that all codes were cleared. No joy with the buttons. Ignition off and removed main plug from the module. Will leave the car as is and plug it in again Monday and report back!

Sounds about right, it's likely that SFD unlock wasn't required to do each of the adaptions I've done, hence why I've only had to do it a few times

SFD Unlock the unit for 90min After this time, New Unlock

No problem... https://www.drive2.ru/l/587595782509559952/

Yea. So chances are that is the same as mine the face-lift. Think the 331 is the badge in the tailgate. Was just concerned as with mine being a 72 reg it is around the face-lift time. Having said that I don't think they did the older one in the phoenix orange. Speaking of the fronts it ks the 684S or something like that yes?

I wonder if dropping the main power plug out of the module for a day or two would do the same. Assume it would throw up a couple of codes when unplugged but might be a bit of a hard reset for it.

Are you using OEM Plugs and Ignition coils, and what octane petrol? What have you used as an air filter? What gearbox has the car? Maybe look in the Fabia Mk3 section & the tuning thread. Has the person that does your remap not have advice to give you?

thanks bigade1

I have a great satnav that I use all the time on my phone, but it isn't supported by carplay

I agree with Evolution in some respects. I do a fair bit of city driving, always in Eco mode and coast where I can. I have the 2 litre diesel and my average over the last 6 months is 39 mpg. There's something seriously amiss with Tom-Kodiaq's car. It's curious that he doesn't mention getting the car back to the dealership for investigation.

So, an update. On Tuesday afternoon I was going to change the air quality sensor so, as I always do when changing something, I disconnected the battery. Unfortunately, I ran out of time, so I left the battery disconnected overnight. I replaced the sensor and reconnected the battery in the morning and cleared the normal illuminations on the dash. After about 15 mins of driving, I heard the confirmation “bong” for something and my seat then moved to my saved driving position. No idea if the battery disconnection reset the seat module, especially as it’s probably not a permanent live unit. Still, it’s up-and-running again so that’s a ridiculous sum saved for a new or used module and a contortionist job avoided to replace it!

No idea, never touched a Hyundai. J.R. hasn't been on here in several months, not since last August.

Hehe yes, the oldest swinger in town, I've got some platforms somewhere....ah, I left them in the boot of the Capri when it was crushed ;)

I have a 20 plate Octavia 1.5tsi SEL dsg estate, I put standard mk3 facelift 16" wheels on with 205/55 16 tyres, took the 17s off for comfort. It makes a marginal difference, plus there's a bigger choice of tyres & they're cheaper. Plus you have a bit more side wall protection against potholes. I'm not interested within the vanity side of bigger wheels, prefer more comfort.

Absolute nighmare! Just shouldn't have this hassle with a new motor. Hopefully you get the result you wanted soon.

This was my experience unfortunately. I followed the steps earlier in this thread (I found the instructions at https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/516103-volume-keeps-turning-up/page/2/#findComment-5948038 and https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/516103-volume-keeps-turning-up/page/3/#findComment-5962405 to be the most helpful). My stereo had been switching itself off an on incessantly, though never the volume going up and down I don't think. I first disconnected the cable from the touch-bar to the stereo and reinstalled everything to make sure the touch-bar was the problem. This removed the problem for weeks. Afterward I tried cleaning the reverse of the bar and reconnecting it, but after that I found the volume was turning itself down all the time. It didn't do this straight away - it waited until I'd put it all back together and driven a fair few miles first! So I've decided just to disconect the touch-bar again: I don't think I know enough about what I ought to be cleaning, and I don't want to spend more of my weekends connecting and disconnecting it. I'd rather it was all connected, but it's not a problem at all not having the touch strip working and it's solved the problem.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suspect the phone charger (or possibly I-phone battery) is faulty - it sounds to me that it is shutting down because it is incorrectly detecting an excess current condition.

I’ll have a look in mine too. I have done it successfully a little while back but not had need since. A short road trip next month is an opportunity for me to try again… Just had a fiddle… At the ‘Save’ prompt, type in a name for your favourite.

I had the same problem and feared it may have been the wiper motor as one of the other contributors has commented. I removed the jet which was not blocked, I tried again and no fluid came out at all, I worked some stiff plastic coated garden wire down the hole where the nozzle fits, it goes in 3 or 4 inches, I jabbed it and rusty water emerged, tried it again and it worked, rusty dirty water at first, after a few squirts the water ran clear and it’s now working ok, I hope this might help someone,

Youtube clip of how to replace badge. https://youtu.be/3F0txG4Pg_g