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@lol-lol You really live in a parallel universe if you really believe nearly every household can make their own electric and store it in batteries. Not everyone is in detached homes, terraced or blocks. There are Flats in all sorts of heights & multi-storeys. Places with no Gardens or places that are Listed or in Heritage areas etc etc. Housing Associations, Local Authority / Council houses, buy to lets etc etc. Houses of Multiple occupancy. Then on Canal Boats / River Boats, Caravans, Mobile Homes & many types of residences. So solar and battery is a major investment which someone has to pay for if it is possible to have. It is like the factual nonsense about how many vehicle drivers have Off Street parking where they can charge BEV,s or PHEV,s.

There is no way of knowing. Is this one of the Peugeot 1.2 Puretech engines that have Wet Belt issues / failures, hence the repair required. Maybe best leave that one where it is if it is.

Singing his heart out in the back garden earlier P1420707~2.mp4

Have to say I keep reading this thread every now and then and have visions of Heath Robinson arrangements for batteries and solar panels at @lol-lol 's house and him running around morning and night like Scrooge unplugging and plugging in all his electrical appliances to his batteries and panels...

Money, easy come easy go to those with money. Millions in the UK have not enough money to pay bills and feed them selves. While Haves get Free or Cheap electricity and grants for Heat Pumps. The law is changing in the UK to allow plug in Solar and prices will supposedly be cheap. Battery storage to power your home is not cheap yet. Then we have the fire hazard. As it is many hundreds of thousands of peoples residences have still not had Cladding sorted out, and have properties they can not sell.

Hey, i was just thinking is it possible to unlock line assistant and road sign reading options using just a simple obd tool from amazon or any ordinary one? Or is it just specialised ones can do it? I know there is a service down in England ( only 1 I found so far) who does this sort of service. And this leads to important question, if I could do it myself, what are the odds i could completely mess things up? Or it is very easy and trouble free. Thanks

This is the ashtray in a Felicia (not mine, photo by Google) and since i don't smoke inside the car and strictly forbid the passengers to smoke (even the rear door ashtrays are sealed) i had in the past the thought to use it for other purpose. This is how it look inside when you pull it out. In the beginning i attached a parallelogram-shaped gauge (in-out temperature, voltage) and you can see how the central console was modified back then. I wasn't completely happy but those days i didn't had the money and the time to do something more but after few years i have changed the console design and modified the astray completely. I will show you the whole project step by step.

International Detailing Association trained and certified here and trained at UK Detailing Academy. You can do what you like, it’s you car but the general trends are based on research and understanding that changes and grows over time. Waterless/Rinseless products aren’t bad per se. They’re just not for this place. They were developed in California where there have been regular issues with water shortages and hosepipe bans. It’s not that it doesn’t do the job, it’s a shortcut that compromises on results because of the scenario it wasn’t developed for. Water-based products are simply better because they’ve been developed for longer by more companies. Generally the stages for cleaning: Rinse (remove obvious contaminants cheaply with water from your jetwash) Pre-wash (snowfoam, citrus - they don’t both need to be done, do it properly, do it once); very generous rinse here to use the prewash to get rid of contaminants Wheels/tyres - alkali/ph neutral cleaner is fine unless really burnt on nasty crusty brake dust then you’ll need an acid-based product. Iron fallout - start around the wheel on the body, if there is responding colour-change, spray a bit further along. If there is no indication by colour change, don’t bother doing more as the chances are low there will be any. Safe Contact wash - 2 bucket method is standard but there are single bucket methods. Tar remover - generally lower half of the car, starting behind the wheels. Clay if you’re going to polish. It creates marring damage in pulling out contaminants, so no point unless you correct it. Rinse low pressure to drag off spare water. Dry (air dryer and/or microfibre drying towel). Wash media is good quality clean microfibre - washmitt for cleaning, soft-tip brushes for panel gaps and corners, and microfibre towels for any. Delete stages as you don’t want them. Protective products can range from hand waxes, spray waxes, spray polymer waxes, hybrid ceramic and/or graphene waxes, ceramic coating, PPF.

Hi, to help others, tutorial how i activated Hill Hold on Scala my2020. Hw number: 2Q0614517N Sw number: 2Q0614517AP Based on info from obdeleven, coding is: Hill hold assist Module 03 Brakes Long coding Activate byte 47 - Bit 6 (was 0B, now 4B) Activate byte 51 - Bit 1 (was D0, now D2) But i couldnt get it enabled (function not available) Instead, i changed the 0B to 4B and D0 to D2 in the long code. After that i got Hill assist options inside adaptations, and got the HA running!

is true. paid £1000 for it last year. full option. it still a luxury car in 2025.

So anyway. Change is coming. Westminster is changing planning in England and will sort out those councils and NIMBY,s that are holding things up. Not anytime soon. No big rush to get things more green for everyone. More Nuclear eventually and the next generations will still be paying for the decommissioning of what provided cheap electricity for past generations.

Look also for clutch slave if is leaking it share the same brake fluid

Did this happen all of a sudden or after replacing a caliper etc. It may be air in the system due to bad master cylinder or when changing something fluid has dropped too low letting air into ABS. If you havent replaced any brake parts or fluid was low I would suspect bad seals on master. Alasdair

Having used Section 75 previously, I don't think there's any need for anything formal at least. They just ask whether you've tried to resolve it between the two parties, and then they just consider evidence and how it stacks up against the relevant legislation. In my case, bearing in mind when the faults occurred, there would be an assumption these are 'pre-existing' (i.e., not caused by my wear and tear), which means the car isn't of 'satisfactory quality' or 'as described' (none of the faults were mentioned in the advert, which I did save a copy of) according to the CRA2015. On that basis, and if I can provide proof in the form of an inspection report, photographs, etc, the credit card company would likely determine the dealer is legally liable and at that point either put through a chargeback for the amount paid by credit card, or a full Section 75 claim if the amount exceeds what the chargeback would cover (even if you pay just £1 of the total amount by credit card, the credit card company is liable for the entire transaction). That's my understanding at least. Happy to be corrected though.

When I did mine on a 1.9tdi BXE engine I had to loosen the three bolts in camshaft wheel to get the alignment tools spot on. Wonder if they have loosened on yours as the adjustment is only about one tooth. Not sure what Firstline are like these days but a few years ago my local garage stopped using them as the failure rate of new parts was very high. I would go with Gates if possible. Used them for years and never had an issue. INA are very good as well as SKF and should be a lot better than firstline. Needs looking at as not sure how many teeth need to jump before disaster. Alasdair

Hi, I'm new here obligatory introduction. I own 2021 Kamiq NW4 1.0 TSI. Nice to join the community. I’m looking forward to learning a lot here. Nice to meet you ✌️

Hi, welcome. You can get share and get lots of real world advice, information and experience from owners and others in the Octavia section of the site including forums for Octavia Mk3 (or 4), Guides and Projects plus other lots of general forums for other subjects. Octavia section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ Home (all forums). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Good luck.

I suppose it's possible there might be one final flourish of adding kit before they kill it off completely, but there was nothing added for 2026. Maybe if there's stock of the Varioflex sitting in a warehouse somewhere, they might be thrown back in to clear them. Need to bear in mind that the Karoq will be 10 years old next year, so positively ancient in terms of a typical model lifecycle, & way behind current NCAP standards. Hard to see an incentive for Skoda to keep making more when there's so many sitting around unsold. The stock checker currently shows 815 new & 960 used Karoqs looking for a home.

You could tell the dealer you could exercise your rights under CRA2015 and reject the car, but you would rather he took the sensible approach and fixed the washer jet and door handle. Give it to him verbally and by email if need be. He wont fund the cost of the battery, a consumable. Section 75 will not work for you at present.

I have 0144 on a 2020/21 Octavia and no, I can't do either off those things within the app

I would imagine the argument is that since making it an option, no one was buying it. Unsurprising given the ludicrous cost, which I think was £899 last time I looked. Removing what was a USP from the standard package was an odd decision, but then just one of many that VAG have made over the last few years. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a leading contributor to the fact there's currently over 800 Karoqs sitting in the dealer network. On the plus side while you can't have Varioflex, you can have a big discount off one of those.

She's got her heart set on another one. Bought same car 5 years ago (2007 plate) for £1000, hardly needed to do any work on it in that time , 19 years old now and coolant and oil are mixing and mot due in a month

Not that I am aware of. I get app updates that's all.

Mine is also a late 2020 (september Manufacture i think) and is on version 1896.. only getting apps update as well. Is there a way to do a "force" check for OTA updates?

Mine 2020 has remote lock function, but since I had it brought to workshop with comms module related issues before, I guess they updated it back then. Never had O3A8 prompted. Running on 1941 as well and no system updates OTA, only apps updates.

For anyone else considering changing the 6u0611931D pipe and check valve... In the end I used a 12mm check valve from carbuilders along with 1m of 13mm vacuum hose and standard clips: https://www.carbuilder.com/products/aluminium-non-return-valve-12mm-2 https://www.carbuilder.com/products/heavy-duty-spring-band-hose-clamp https://www.carbuilder.com/products/vacuum-hose-13mm-id Worked fine. Removing the line from the booster is a bit fiddly without damaging the connection on the booster. I used a heat gun to warm up the old pipe so I could get it off relatively easily. Sadly, the issue remains so presume leak is in the booster itself but it was worth trying for the sake of £20 and 30mins of my time.

This is it :

EDF - FreePhase Dynamic tariff.

Its a 207 1.4 millesim

No offense taken - all good 🙂 Thanks for pointing it out.

From 1896 you can go straight to 1989 I believe, I went from 1896 to 1985 in one step anyway, when that was the latest software release. Tutorial and link for 1989 will be present on the main page of this (mk4) forum

You search on this forum for 1941 first, you update it via USB C stick, then you also search for the latest 1989 and do the same. You will also find all the steps here on the forum.

The UK needed the National Grid upgrades a decade past. The UK needs to 'Take back control'. Have ENERGY SECURITY. Nationalise the NATIONAL GRID. Forget the Arms race & the spending to be able to fire missiles costing millions of quid or to get a train trip to be 20 minutes quicker (for some, very few. HS2) . As to the Navy, it looks like half the fleet are under maintenance and the rest going in for running repairs far too often, and still not enough humans to be operating what is working.

How many miles has it done. When were the Spark Plugs replaced? Miles. Needs a proper scan to see if there are logged Fault Codes like Misfires. How long ago was it refuelled.? Filling stations started getting Summer fuel or should have at end March. Should not make any difference as E10 is E10 or E5 is E5. but funnily there are cars throw a wee misfire this time of year.

A valid point. Even BL cars of the ‘70s had an amber oil pressure warning light which would come on with the ignition and go off when oil pressure had built up.

Ok hopefully this is now sorted! Sunroof drain was my first check and they appeared clear. Evidently it wasn’t fully clear. Today got a large drip on my head after heavy rain. When checked again it wasn’t clearing, cleared some gunk out and water trickled through the drain, went at it again and a deluge of dirty brown water came flowing through!!! Pic shows what splashed from drain onto door! Fingers crossed that’s it sorted

Same thing happened to my Mk3, I only noticed when braking and heard water sloshing around. Do as daftbugger suggested, open door and fiddle with rubber seal.😉

Could be control arms, I remember changing to AP Racing 6 pots on the front of my M5 as I thought this would cure it but turned out it was bushes for the control arms.. Live and learn but least it stopped quicker

Sideskirts fitted over the weekend, took it out to some sunlight

Hi normanb The "seal" you mention is not water tight or meant to be , if it was you wouldn't be able to open the window so yes water can & does enter the door. There are drain holes or rather oval holes in bottom of all doors, 2 on each IIRC. The problem is there's a rubber seal that butts up to the lip on the bottom of the door & partly blocks said drain, made worse if the door is not opened for a long time. Likely with a rear door as the rubber tends to stick itself to the door. If you put your finger between seal & door lip then slide from front edge to rear edge you will unstick it and feel the location of the drain holes. How do I know ?? .I recently had a 3 inch deep puddle in front passenger footwell with car pointing slightly down hill , on opening NSR door there was a slight trickle until I ran my finger between seal & door lip when water then poured out.

My 2015 vRS did it all year round, and would cloud the rear window for a few seconds. Perfectly normal. There are several threads on here about it. Gaz

We picked up our Scala just over a week ago. Had a lot of tar spots that needed removing. Gtechniq W7 made light work of that. Got a few swirl marks that need some attention. A job for a summer evening when the sun goes down a bit.

Welcome to the Edition 100 ownership. 😌

It may have wiring in wingmirror for indicator although not fitted thats broken/disconnected? Alasdair

Indicators aside, it's nice to see a Mk1 still going 😎 My old 2.5 V6 was a '55 plate. Traded in eleven years ago - that's gone quick 🙄 Gaz

I Picked up my Black Superb yesterday afternoon. On the way home via Tesco’s to full up, everything thing seemed to work as it should. No problems from anything. This morning, I went out early, taking the boss shopping. I had the (now common it seems) issues with the safety systems and either the camera/sensors in front of the drivers rear view mirror or the radar block. With the safety’s systems are inoperable type message. That went way in about a mile or so. Later on, I went out and set everything up to my liking (no doubt I’ll need to change something going forwards. I noticed a couple of items that seem to be different from post I’ve read on the Superb sub section: My interior 12v socket is live with the ignition off, my plug in adapter has a power light so it’s hard to miss. On CarPlay, I can have Google maps on both screens active at the same time. Swipe to open the boot was about 50-50 working or not. I have a dipstick 👍 It’s to soon to make a final decision, however, all’s looking good at the start of our journey together. The steering is very positive and turning circle nice and tight. Power train is possibly a fraction quieter than my Passat of same engine/power but manual box The auto box is just as smooth and responsive as my A3 of same engine and auto box. The boss is impressed - that’s a very good thing as she loved our previous VAG cars🥳 Overall mostly what I’d expected/hoped for I’ll post more after a few thousand miles\

I was very happy with my mk3 2.0TDI manual for 8 years. Not a single fault. Sold it with 150 000 km on the clock. It didn't had too many extras: AFS xenons, rear camera, heated windshield, no assistance systems at all and cloth seats. So nothing special, but still - a comfortable car for the price. The only downside was sound insulation. Not terrible, but for such a nice interior quality, insulation was the only thing I thought could be better. But it was time to get something new. Was thinking to try something new. Never liked SUVs, so the choise is narrow. Passat for my tasted was too ugly. I knew it's probably a better car and could get the same specs as Superb for the same price, but it wass too ugly. Then thought about Audi A5. Took the test drive and was disappointed a lot. I expected a feeling better than Superb. But: parts below were the same hard plastic. Door gaskets were faulty for a new tested car. Standard trims, with door panels from cloth looked like they are taken from golf mk2. Leather seats could fix this, but even then, trim in center console is hard terribly looking plastic... everything felt cheap. For 5000! I could get S line alcantara seats, which were better and with no terrible plastic trims in center console. But this raised already high price to almost 60 000 Eur with discount already. And with no such extras like heated rear seats, no heated windscreen, no matrix lights. Then decided to give a try for a superb. When I went to dealer and checked Sportline interior, I felt it's a different class to audi A5. Quality was everywhere: firm alcantara seats, hard plastic in audi replaced by alcantara trimmings everywhere in Superb. Got a price for a high spec superb 14000 eur less to A5. With many more extras too. And realized that I just maybe can't afford a good Audi. So just ordered Superb. So now why am I writing this long story? Well, while I was waiting for the car to be delivered, I started reading reviews. I know I had to do it before ordering :) But reviews are usually paid by manufacturers, so I started looking for user comments. And these were terrible everywhere. Everybody compared it to mk3 and almost everyone said mk3 is miles better car. So I waited for a new car with fear. Finally, It arrived last week. Already 2000km on the clock. And after this, I can say that all negative comments comes from people who had never driven it. Maybe never even seen it live. I wasn's expecting many changes, as platform is the same. But mk4 is from another world compared to mk3. Interior quality is even better, sportline seats are very comfortable. Sound insulation is better regarding wind and road noise. Probably engine is a bit noisier. Unless it will get better when it runs in. Also about the engine. I was expecting it to be the same as previous, as its also 110kw tdi. But it much livier. And handling in corners is similar to A5. Which was the only positive thing from my test drive. It's a lot better than mk3, and not bouncing and rolling anymore. Though, don't know if it's related to sportline trim. But in general - everything is better in mk4. Except maybe Canton system - was expecting more. But also didn't have time to play with settings. A lot complains about too sensitive asssitance systems. I think these works well. They are designed to assist and even if they are on the sensitive side, this is why they are designed for - to protect in advance. So after all, I'm really surprised about the car. Big comfortable car, with super quality interior. In real life it looks better than in videos. And digital cluster everyone is complaining about, looks a lot better in reality too. So my advice - just go for it. And you will never look back to mk3. Which is a very good car, but mk4 is just better.

Long time lurker. First time posting. I owned a 2019 Superb estate diesel for five years. Traded it in a few months ago (at 137,000 miles) for a 2024 Superb estate diesel. Both times the cars were a few months old when I bought them. The 2019 car was great. Did what I needed really well. Criticisms? Mine (on halogen headlights) had an appetite for bulbs, about every six months. Differences with the new model? This is a bit difficult because my 2024 is a higher spec version (SE L) whereas my 2019 car was low spec. Positive. It’s quieter and even more economical. I don’t do many short journeys but do a monthly return between Scotland and London, and holidays have taken the car as far as Croatia. I typically averaged between 50-55mpg with the 2019 car and I’m averaging 55-60 mpg with the 2024 one. Driving pattern hasn’t changed. Whether this is due to improved technology or just because the old one was getting a little rattly after 137,000 miles I don’t know. The LED lights on the 2024 car are a million times better than the halogen ones on my 2019 car, and the clever automatic high beam assist seems to work very well. This is on a limited experience as I bought my car at the start of the Scottish summer (doesn’t get dark until close to midnight in June) so (thus far) I have done very little night driving. Shift lever by steering wheel. This took a while to get used to but it does create a lot of useful storage space in the centre. Not so good. ADAS. I know the ADAS systems are a legal requirement but I hate them. The speed recognition software is often wrong – and it never “sees” overhead gantry signs. Lane assist is something I detest. The collision detection has far too many false positives. Twice when low speed reversing the car has slammed (and I mean slammed) on the brakes, despite no hazards within half a mile. To be fair, I've driven other VW group cars (rentals) and the ADAS on those was even worse. You can turn this stuff off, but (by law) you need to do it every time you restart. I know some manufacturers allow you to configure a “favourite” configuration that you can select at start up – if you can do that on my car I have yet to find it. Before you say “read the manual” – there isn’t a manual. The lack of an owner’s manual is another downside. Digital dashboard. This is generally great, but it can be too clever for its own good. On one occasion I have brushed a control (I have no idea what I touched) and the whole display became a giant sat nav, with no other data. Took a while to reconfigure what I wanted. I’m sure there must be a way to check the adblue level (it was really easy in my 2019 car) but I have yet to find it. Adaptive cruise. This worked brilliantly in my 2019 car. It’s good but not as good in the 2024 version. It gets confused more easily and occasionally speeds up when following a vehicle then a second later “realizes” it is too close and brakes harshly. Overall I’m still pleased with the 2024 car. But I wish it was easier to disable the hateful ADAS stuff.

1 of the 14 registered here. Although a PD130 not 2.5. Great car, one thing I'd improve is adding a hatch rather than saloon!