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Dry - I never lube the bolts since that may change the actual torque I try to set.

A good carpet of Bluebells this evening.........

Me and my scooter at Notre Dame: Gaz 😁 PS: It found its way to a few other places too - shameless tourist: 😁

The way I position the wheel is to sit on the floor facing it then wedge a foot either side of it so the wheel is sitting on the top of my feet as I then put a bolt in. I use the skoda screwdriver, the end of the handle has a 17mm socket so you can use it to easily spin in the bolts unti the thread catches. It always hurts my feet though, so maybe some positioning pins would be a better bet!

Sorry for getting it wrong way round been a hectic week and its not over yet. Alasdair

I'd suggest having the battery tested after being charged - failing batteries can have a nasty habit of suddenly letting you down - the law of Sod will often dictate that failure to be in the most inconvenient place!

Unfortunately, a stud conversion kit won't help OP in this particular case as the stud still requires a viable thread in the hub.

Whoops, you mean AGM rather than EFB (type of typo I'd make).

Yes start/stop that’s why battery type most be EFB or AGM. I am now disabling start/stop at the moment when driving so as to ensure less strain on the battery and getting more efficient charging from the alternator. I don’t do too many miles these days.

The dealership I mentioned has MG and Skoda franchises (I was waiting for my Fabia to be serviced). I've dealt with them since 2009 and found them trustworthy and their staff technically competent. The MG owner also complained that his car's sat-nav occasionally failed to provide speed-limit data. I said that my Skoda Fabia had done this for a couple of miles on my trip to the dealership and, as my car's sat-nav relied on a database for speed-limit information, the reason must have been because there was a gap in the database relating to that stretch of road. In fact, on the way home, on the same stretch of road (but in the opposite direction) the speed-limit readout was again lost. (I'm not sure it's still possible to opt for 'adaptive' LED headlights on current UK Skoda Fabia Mk4 models. All Fabia Mk4 cars now have 'all LED' headlights (ie. they do not contain traditional bulbs) as part of their standard equipment, but only the 130.has 'adaptive' LED headlights as standard.)

Mrs Gaz walked up to the Chattri, just North of Brighton this afternoon: Gaz

Woohoo, this lot should help hide some crimes and make some repairs look a bit more professional for the MOT man. No doubt it will take me another year to get all this welded in, but it feels like a step towards road legality all the same.

Thanks Alasdair and Jack, I couldn't find anything wrong on the outside of the box so I decided to remove it. I suspect it's the pressure plate fingers that have caved it. I'll let you know what I find

I think they are build in to the bonnet catches. I can’t think why else there would be an electrical connection to the catches. Perhaps try adjusting them just in case it’s not pulling the bonnet properly closed?

It is an 027 EFB battery. Thanks. AG Falco

Right answer. 🙂

What what, are you pushing the wheel with your feet to the hub while turning the bolts with extension with your hands? You seems to be very flexible. Sorry I asked ChatGPT to draw it for me, but it draw the man beside the tire, not in front of the tire. (I might asked to draw it like 5 y.o. :D ) PS: Sorry I'm just fried at the end of the week. I'm losing it...

Pricing is other way round - AGM is more expensive than EFB - AGM should have superior performance and life.

Hi all, Sharing my experience with Marshall Škoda Dartford in case it helps other owners, especially anyone dealing with recurring faults or navigating the Consumer Rights Act. Vehicle & Initial FaultPurchased new: Skoda Kodiaq SEL August 2024 (£47,875) Fault description: The sunroof intermittently refuses to close. The force‑limiter triggers incorrectly, stopping the sunroof mid‑closure as if it has detected an obstruction. When this happens, the sunroof remains stuck open, and the control panel becomes completely unresponsive. The manual describes a force‑limiter override procedure, but in my case the override does not work. The only way to eventually close the sunroof is through multiple ignition cycles and repeated swipe attempts, after which it finally closes. First occurrence: November 2024 — within the first four months of ownership. When I first reported the issue, the dealership told me to contact Škoda Roadside Assistance rather than booking the vehicle in directly. Roadside Assistance confirmed the fault but could not repair it on‑site. Repair Attempts (Jan–Apr 2025)January 2025: First available workshop appointment. Diagnosis: motor replacement required, part on back order. February 2025: Loan car provided. Additional parts required (clip, control panel). Vehicle returned to me on 21 Feb — sunroof still not working. The dealership’s own driver confirmed the fault when delivering the car back. Car taken straight back for further work. Late Feb – April 2025: Motor replaced Control panel replaced Full sunroof frame fitted Car returned April 2025 Despite all this, the same fault reappeared in February 2026. Third Failure (Feb 2026)Sunroof failed again in February 2026. I requested a loan car and collection due to work commitments. First available appointment offered was 24 March, with collection/drop‑off initially refused. At this point, with the fault recurring for the third time, I exercised my Final Right to Reject under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Inspection Requests, Delays, Compliance Involvement & Independent Report IssueThis part became very inconsistent and prolonged: The dealership requested to inspect the vehicle to determine whether the recurring fault was linked to previous repairs. Shortly afterwards, they withdrew the request, saying the matter had been passed to their legal and compliance team. Compliance then passed the case straight back to the dealership, stating it was for the retailer to resolve — creating a loop with no progress. The dealership then reinstated the inspection request, saying they could not consider my rejection unless I allowed them to inspect the vehicle. I confirmed multiple times that I was willing to make the vehicle available and asked for loan car and collection arrangements. These arrangements were delayed for several days, despite assurances that details would be provided. Before the inspection took place, I provided the dealership with two precise hour‑and‑minute time windows covering both occurrences of the most recent failures, specifically so they could retrieve the relevant error codes from the system. March 2026: Vehicle finally collected and inspected. Dealer reported “no fault found.” Following this, the dealership stated: Because more than six months had passed, the burden of proof now fell entirely on me. They would only reconsider my rejection if I obtained an independent expert report proving the fault existed at delivery. They offered to contribute 50% toward the cost of such a report. Without this report, they would not accept my rejection and instead offered non‑statutory commercial options (market‑value purchase or part‑exchange). I declined the independent report, as the fault was first reported within four months and had been subject to three failed repairs, which is the basis of my Final Right to Reject under CRA 2015. The matter is now with The Motor Ombudsman. SummaryThis post reflects my personal experience of: A recurring fault first reported within four months Multiple failed repair attempts Long waits for appointments Inconsistent inspection decisions (requested, withdrawn, reinstated) Compliance passing the case back to the dealership Attempts to shift the burden of proof Pressure to obtain an independent report Non‑statutory commercial offers instead of CRA 2015 remedies Initial advice to contact Roadside Assistance rather than booking the vehicle in Providing exact time windows of the failure, yet still receiving a “no fault found” outcome I’m sharing this to help other owners understand what to expect and to provide context for anyone dealing with similar issues. Happy to answer general questions that might help others.

I'm not convinced that is the original battery. I'll start a private chat with you to request VIN. Cheers.

Yep - called a stud and nut kit. Plenty of tuners sell them as most people that are serious about tracking their car will switch to that.

My variation is to sit on the floor with feet on the tyre wall at 3 and 9 holding it on the hub; bolts handtight with the Little (4"?) extension bar I have, then tweak with bar then torque when car's back on the floor.

@Abk does your Fabia have start/stop i.e. does it turn off at traffic lights or in a queue for example?

I'll try to give you some tips on checking cam sensor wiring later, cos that code suggests an electrical/wiring/contact problem more than a mechanical one, I think.

Always try to leave it in a gear that means if the handbrake does slip a little, it turns the engine the normal way, not backwards. So if you're nose down the slope, leave it in 1st. If the engine is turned tge wrong way, it tends to squeeze residual oil out of the hydraulic chain tensioner, making a chain jump more likely when next started.

The steering Wheel Button have To Support Paddels. The Controller are the Button self with lin

Hi, welcome. (I will 'Report' your post to a Moderator to suggest moving it to the Fabia Mk3 section). 2017 Fabia owners will know more than me, my wife's 1.2 TSI 90 is from 2015. If it's a factory original battery then AFAIK it'll be a EFB type battery, if the battery has been replaced then who knows. I don't think you can remove the battery insulation wrap cover unless you disconnect the battery terminals to look at the side of the battery for any label, which I guess you'd not want to do (altho' instructions for disconnecting and reconnect the battery are in the car's 'Owner's Manual' or we could advise on how to do this.) Using a scan tool would only tell you what was last programmed in as the battery which may or may not be accurate to what is actually fitted. Do you have any paperwork with the car to suggest the battery has been changed? Why is it you want to know this information? As already suggested there is lots and lots of information in the Fabia Mk3 section about the 12v battery, many posts and a couple threads from me too. Let us know if you need more help, HTH.

Thanks chaps Strangely, the current configurator says a reversing camera is an option on SE Technology and SE L trims, part of an options package at £710. You'd think a "Technology" trim would have it. Only Sportline and vRS is it shown as standard. 🤔 The Audi scroll/clickwheel system is excellent, but the non-touch screen is low-tech and Android Auto is clunky to the point of unusable. I could upgrade it to a touchscreen but that's expensive. Pity they dropped the scroll system after 2021. I used a company in Knutsford to fit a camera on the Audi, similar setup as EY retrofits probably. But i'd prefer not to have ther hassle or expense.You're right about gremlins too. I like the Audi, but there's a big gap in power/performance figures for both their A3 and A4 since around 2023, nothing currently around 200 bhp in the A3 or 250 in the A4, until you get to their S3 and S4 (and RS3 and RS4!). The vRS Octy fits right in that gap. So for me an early Mk4.5 seems to be my best option if/when I change. Budget is always a constraint!

Many warning messages are removed by the "turn it off and on again" method. It's the modern norm

They were taking the p!$$ at the MG Dealership. How much time was actually spent to check there was no fault? Even if that is their Minimum diagnostics charge. The owner will get that £150 refunded when the fault or issue shows again in the Warranty period. As it is the MG Dealership staff know exactly what the 'Transitory problem' will be. They work on the models daily. As do Skoda Techs / fitters on Skodas.

Ok so an update I ordered an Octavia VRS flat bottom steering wheel with the red stitching and paddles, it also has the same buttons as on my superb so no need to faff about with anything, my car is a maroon mk3 280 so I don’t mind the red. Will update when I fit it and test it, paid about 160 all in

There is a hood position sensor or switch located on or near the lower (body) latch. Do your windscreen wipers still work?

Unfortunately, what almost certainly happened was the 1st bolt cross-threaded when you used the impact wrench on it and I'm not sure I'd trust a helicoil repair on the damaged thread - probably the best fix would be to replace the damaged hub. Also get yourself a pair of the tyre positioning pins for future use.

Bap33, I watched a video about changing the battery on a Superb and it showed the bracket. I can't see a bracket on my Kodiaq. I can only see a bolt which is in the metal, in front of the battery. The bolt is sprayed silver like the car. I going to remove the black insulation sleeve from around the battery.

DTUA engine code by the looks of it. Darkside Developments seem not to be phased. They’re one of the better reputation diesel tuners so give them a shout.

The correct way to do it would be to take the needle off the shaft with a special tool or 2 flat bladed screwdrivers and then re install it in the correct position. By bending the bourdon tube you may have altered the calibration. However as it is a cheap Chinese gauge I doubt that it would read accurately anyway. What are you using it for that needs an accurate vacuum reading?

Hi all. Dave from London here in my green wagon

Probably no pre teen child available there that knows how to use the equipment.

It was brought to the attention of the service advisor that there small bubbling around the fuel filler cap when the vehicle had its 11 year service, once the full service history including all the extended scope inspections had been carried out were confirmed, the dealership dealt with the issue in accordance with the Škoda TPI resulting in it being booked into a Škoda approved body shop for repair under the 12year anti perforation warranty

AAA but that's just my eye for detail. It makes the appeal of a secondhand one of that part number quite a bit more... I was thinking of trying to look at the one in our 2012 Roomster, part number 1K8 951 605 B according to partslink24, but superseded by the part number shown above, 1K0951605F. It went off without obvious cause quite recently at home, though it was very windy at the time. Just bought one from Silverlake via ebay for £28 that appears to have a 2024 date code on it. 🙂

We have just got our 2014 Citigo back from having the rear offside panel replaced under the Škoda 12 year anti perforation warranty, we have owned the car from new and having a full Škoda service history including the extended scope inspections were crucial to this successful warranty claim, which also included the fitting of wheel arch liners to prevent the rust returning

I can look up some service history. Just PM me with the Reg/ VIN. PM sent. Thanks. AG Falco

Could be a failing bearing/ABS sensor/ABS ring or wiring. From memory the car uses info from ABS sensor to work out if a tyre is flat. Maybe worth getting it scanned in case a fault code is stored or if faulty which wheel/wheel sensor it is Alasdair

I now have nearly all the parts for the chrome delete project. Just need to find the time to fit them all! Grill Surround https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/177879476697 Lower Grill parts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/177879048390 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/157695824834 Radar Cover https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305273235761 Black/White badges https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html Black Superb Badge https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003980570506.html Black Bumper protector https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/377061941246 Roof rails were from an autosalvage on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267450005368 Chrome Delete tape for Window surrounds and grill bars https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005051534918.html Black Wheel centre caps (Awaiting delivery) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009034228022.html

I've got a load of repair panels paid for which should hopefully ship on weds, should be enough to get an MOT on this rotten mess. Best bit, they CAN get a bed repair and brand new tailgate protector using https://matkoakubko.com/ which I will be doing as a celebration the same week that the truck gets an MOT. Is this the year it happens?! Frogparts so far seem INCREDIBLE.

That's if the fault diagnosis is/was correct, plus the vehicle was returned 21st Feb with the sunroof not working and a motor was fitted in late Feb to April (was this the first or second motor). OP have you checked in the Kodiaq section/forum to see if others have had this fault, particularly mid-2024 owners in case it might be a known fault by VW and the Dealership(s), perhaps even hidden technical bulletins or other on the issue? You could also look at the other VW brands to see if this issue might be on their models. Rightly or wrongly I always suspect the possibility of programing errors or errors in updates, which even someone decent in an independent garage or auto-electrician/diagnostics might not be able to fully track down. Are you in any sort of organisation that may be able to help you with this or services from other stuff you pay for. Despite what many in the motor trade tell everyone generally they have the upper hand over their customers, but keep pushing and contacting whoever you can at the Dealership, VWŠkoda and outside resources. Good luck.

Hi, First time poster here. I went through an ordeal while trying to power a dash cam from the USB-C port behind the rear-view mirror (Octavia MY25). I have a technical background and it still took quite a bit of troubleshooting, so I can see how someone less familiar with USB-C could run into issues and end up blaming the wrong thing. So I figured I’d share what I learned in case it helps someone else, even if it's not directly answering the OP's question. TL;DR The mirror USB-C port should have enough power for most dash cams (rated at 15 W, which is plenty). The USB-C ports in the FL Mk4 Octavias are USB-PD power sources, so if your dash cam understands USB-PD, any good USB-C cable should work But, if your dash cam has a USB-C power input and a USB-C <-> USB-C cable doesn’t work, try USB-C → USB-A adapter + USB-A → USB-C cable. If your dash cam uses Micro-USB, a USB-C -> Micro-USB cable should work without issues. Also keep in mind that the USB-C port — unlike using a hard-wire kit — is powered only when the car is on or in ACC (Accessory) mode. The more detailed story My Viofo A329S dash cam powers through USB-C, so I wanted to use the USB-C port instead of hard-wiring it. I had a very short USB-C cable (~15 cm) lying around, so I decided to test with it. The camera powered up and worked normally. But that cable was too short, so I tried a longer USB-C cable. That’s when things got weird: sometimes the camera would start normally other times it would play the startup chime, shut down, and repeat in a loop At first I suspected voltage drop or insufficient power from the car. So I connected a USB power tester to see what was actually happening. The camera draws about 1 A at 5 V (~5 W) during operation (probably with a slightly higher spike during startup), which is well below the 15 W rating of that USB-C port. So power capacity was clearly not the issue. Interestingly, the cable that was unreliable before worked flawlessly when connected through the power tester. That suggested the problem was related to USB-C signaling rather than power delivery itself. What the actual problem seems to be After spending some more money on various USB cables and adapters — and doing some additional research — the likely cause turned out to be USB-C protocol non-compliance on the dash cam side. That dash cam does not implement USB-C Power Delivery (USB-PD). It simply expects 5 V power, similar to older USB devices. With a USB-C <-> USB-C cable, the power source and device communicate via the CC (configuration channel) pins. The source expects to detect the correct pull-down resistor from the device to indicate that it’s a valid USB-C power sink. Some simple devices that just "expect 5 V" don’t fully implement this part of the USB-C specification. When that happens, the power source may: delay enabling power repeatedly attempt to detect a valid sink briefly enable power and then shut it off again From what I understand, that’s what causes the startup loop. The workaround that fixed it The reliable solution was: USB-C port -> USB-C-to-USB-A adapter -> USB-A-to-USB-C cable → dash cam The USB-C → USB-A adapter contains the proper configuration resistor which tells the car’s USB-C port to behave like a legacy 5 V USB source. Once that happens, the USB-A cable simply provides constant 5 V, without any USB-C negotiation involved, and the dash cam works perfectly. Final note about cables Some USB-C <-> USB-C cables might work depending on how they’re wired internally, but fully compliant cables (especially those with an e-marker chip) will expose the (potential) lack of proper USB-C signaling from the device and the camera won’t power reliably. However, USB-PD compliant dash cams should work with those cables (and probably only with those compliant cables). So if your camera doesn’t start with USB-C <-> USB-C, don’t immediately assume the port lacks power — it’s often just a USB-C compatibility quirk. And this issue generally only appears with USB-C <-> USB-C connections. Traditional USB-A connections simply provide 5 V power without USB-C negotiation, which is why the adapter workaround works.

Well our trusted 2007 Roomster 1.9TDI PD, BSW Engine has bit the dust! 195,000 miles, original clutch, still good engine and gearbox. Bought in 2015 with 90,000 on the clock, had been used for towing a caravan. Self serviced from our purchase, always used higher spec oil vag 507. Usual running repairs, discs, pads, springs, front bearings, starters, batteries, ball joints, drop links, inner tie rods, shock absorbers and track rod ends. Failed MOT on dreaded tin worm! Three holes on outer sills. Could repair it with new sills, but still have the other 2009 Roomster. So will use her for spares. Best car I have ever owned for reliability, never broken down. Wish her indoors was as reliable!!

That sounds sensor related then to me. Open the bonnet and look around the coolant reservoir, someone had it on here where it crystallised on a pipe due to a leak

Solved.Timing belt tensioner was allmost stuck (OE Gates) The oil pump belt was in good condition.