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Yes don,t do anything before speaking to them. I would tell them that the keys were stolen/cloned and someone is accessing car. They will probably have an approved auto locksmith that they use and if you do anything yourself will probably not pay out. Might be worth explaining situation to them. As far as I know cloning keys and accessing a vehicle without permission and causing damage are all criminal offences and the police should do something. Hope you get it sorted. Alasdair

DCC Recalibration can b done with OBDEleven and apparently VCDS too.

The Monroe one? Autodoc seems to have it down as the correct part. Pretty sure no coding is needed through VCDS. Only thing that will be needed is calibration. Get the car up in the air, let the wheels hang free (and suggest keeping the wheels on to make sure the shock absorber is extended and then run the calibration process so the controller understands the extremity of shock absorber travel.

As suggested, hello to all! I'm a new Skoda kodiaq 2006 sportline owner. This is my 3rd car purchase but my 1st Skoda. I like it!

Sand Martin hide.............. 20260504_133651~5.mp4

Love is in the air 😍 1430349~4.mp4 And a few others from today.........

I need a replacement but don't know the part number. It's got the dynamic indicators so i need to be sure on eBay etc. Any suggestions or offers accepted. How much is this new? Does it need coding in? My bad reversing🙏

Well done on sorting it and reporting back. I think this shows the level that some scanners are at but all scan tools at all levels have good and bad pionts. IIRC, and I'm not on fantasy island again, I think the scanner I have I can input the mileage figure but I might be wrong. As with the car's 'Owner's Manual' translation from German to it sometimes seems Chinise, to translate to English, brings up some funny words and sentences.

@Ultima You know if the Police will do anything once you speak with them. Station, on phone or via the Community Officer or who ever. & put your concerns in writing to The Police. PS. Since you know what is happening you need a Police report number and to tell your Insurers now of attacks on the vehicle.

It was a B-pillar teardown for a 2019 model Scala - Sample attached. I was having a belt rewind issue, now resolved. I could not find this on the interweb or on this site for this model Attempting to post I type a few characters in the subject, then the page hung on Win11, in Chrome and FF. Seems to work from my Android, but I am buried now so can't help troubleshoot any further. Thanks for the responses.

On the Mk3 the alarm will activate if the vehicle is unlocked using the emergency cylinder - I assume the Mk2 is similar. You would need to notify your insurance provider before replacing any lock.

Bit damp this evening............

The implications are a smaller bill

The Mk3 does not have a clutch on the A/C compressor - the compressor is permanently engaged unless the shear-plate on the pulley has failed.

It sounds like you’ve got a problem with safety systems in general, rather than ACC in particular. They aren’t perfect, but I believe the roads are safer with them. I don’t like lane assist because my car isn’t smart enough. It’s not a Tesla, and I don’t like how it pulls me over a line when the road merges into one lane, for example. I also wouldn’t dream of using it on a country road, for example. That’s why I bought my 2020 Mk3.5. I can have all the safety things I want, but I can also turn them all off and they stay off. The only thing I’ve disabled is TSR. It was always wrong, and as it worked in conjunction with ACC, it was an absolute menace. I wasn’t suggesting cars have feelings - I was suggesting that different models, and different types of cars, are programmed slightly differently. It makes sense that a performanceish car like the vRS would react different to hard braking than a 1.0 Ibiza. The reason none of this is regulated by law (beyond the implementation of it) is the same reason US headlights are limited by lumen output, and our headlights are limited by wattage. Useless!

Definitely VCDS but also OBD11 and I think I’ve read Carista too. The big pity about the Monroe seems to be build quality. I had a front start to leak at about 28k miles/4 years.

I bought a new alternator. Tee mechanic changed it and everything is working now. Start/stop operational, no strange high revs, unless dpf regeneration is in progress. Battery sensor showing normal readings, no red warnings 2 weeks after, so i guess it will be fine. The old alternator had a faulty LIN module after all. Thanx everyone for helping me out

Made it, everything came off after removing the screws :)

I would see if the local garage could scan it if possible and it might ping something up. If its sitting for long periods then as its an older car I would expect some smoke due perhaps to condensation or oil leaking down into pistons while sitting. All my cars are fairly old and create a bit of smoke if I haven't run them for a while which clears once driven a few miles plus unleaded petrol if it is a petrol car will absorb moisture over time due to the ethanol being hygroscopic. I wouldn't bother replacing anything until the local garage has scanned it. There are too many folks out there that spend money on a fault without knowing exactly where the fault is. From memory to reset ECU on older cars you can disconnect battery touch terminals together and leave for an hour or so,reconnect battery and it should reboot the system. Wether it would clear codes I am not sure.

IF it's the stock (NGK) a replace with a new (NGK only) would do only good.

Whish mine was still on the road. Have an Octavia and a Seat with same engine and both around 140k I bought them at around 80k and never had any problem with them. Alas rust killed both cars but mechanicaly they are still spot on Keeping them for parts. Excellent MPG (60-70plus) and go like a train when you want them to plus no DPF to worry about and plenty torque for towing. I did around 8000 miles a year so just serviced annually. Alasdair

So, today I had the car serviced. After I explained the problem with the infotainment and they looked into it, they informed me that the hardware needed to be changed. In fact, they told me that the screen didn't need to be changed, but the main MMI board that is behind the passenger compartment. They will report it to SKODA and wait for an answer about its replacement. It's the 2nd same problem they've seen, they told me.

It looks A 864 S is the twin pack Bosch kit you should buy. 650mm driver's side and 450mm passenger's side flat blades. Edit:- maybe plan to buy them from an online trader that specialises in selling windscreen wipers, they will know which kit is correct for your car.

well it locks and unlocks so i don't think it will be that ...also its never done it before

@davegr you're the only one attacking people - I decided to ignore your reply to my posts as it had nothing to do with the discussion. All the others have discussed based on the topic, in direct relation to the feature being discussed. As @Evolution13 put it, you just go after each phrase you disagree with and complain people have an attitude if they have a different opinion. We are here to discuss cars and share experiences, if yours are different, that is OK, but understand that what you dislike or see in a certain way other people might like and see in a totally different way. It is not about being right or wrong, it is abut learning how to use stuff, if you want, or disable/not use it, if you don't. Oh, and let's all remember this topic was about range...

Recovery should have tried at least the opening the bleed nipple if not disconnection the ABS, for at least when the vehicle isn't moving. Have a look at the brake fluid in the reserviour, if you need to take the reserviour cap off to see then wipe the cap and surrounding neck to and reserviour top with a clean cloth to prevent grit and muck getting in, place cap on clean part of cloth face down. The brake fluid shuld be clear but can be a bit black if in older car but it shouldn't be denser black. The colour of brake fluisd varies a bit but you can often, not always, tell if it looks very old. If you can't release it enough then driving it will get the pads and disc very hot meaning it will more likely seize up again sooner, especially if you use the brake pedal. A neighbour's car had an intermitent problem with a caliper that applied the pads, then onced the car was parked and cooled down the caliper seemed fine, garage couldn't find anything wrong but on driving back from the garage the fault returned so the car was turned around and back to garage and resulted in new front brakes from flexi-hoses on (the car was 17 years old very low mileage and next to none recent years use, and not VW parts costs).

To answer questions- car doesn’t need recovery from where it is (except to a garage for repair if needed) car was not mine when previous services were scheduled so can’t speak on the brake fluid. Recovery tried to free the brake with spray but no joy. Will try the above later, I’d much rather limp it to a garage under its own steam if possible

I used a small cold chisel to open strut base to remove from knuckle. I also did the spring replacement myself. Its a job I hate doing and might be worth asking local garage to swap top mounts if you remove struts they will have a safe! spring compressor and probably wouldnt charge you too much. Check condition of struts as well as last thing you want to do is to repeat job if one starts leaking etc. Alasdair

Tbh, not noticed any problem - I’ve not hit anything yet! 🤫

It is even more important in PHEV because engine is often running on sub-optimal temperatures. Does seller explain somehow why they skipped servicing?

Ok. I misunderstood. Hope someone else comes along to help you before long. As to the quality of the picture, mine’s fine, comparable imo with that on Mrs B’s Nissan with its original equipment camera.

evening all i am new to this world but not skoda my first was a new 2001 octavia 1.9tdl elegance estate had that one 14 years then a 2011 superb 2.0tdi 170 estate brilliant car till covid then had all sorts of problems replaced with a 2019 1.5 petrol octavia sel estate which is being replaced this autumn with a new octavia sportline estate cant wait just hope its as good as all the rest .

Yeah... that's not right. No heat from the blowers also isn't a minor issue - sounds like that could be a blocked matrix, which will need replacing!

Annual oil change is important in any vehicle for obvious reasons. It’s probably overdue a DCT oil change too if I recall correctly. Not doing it is going to accelerate wear and tear. It’s also a hint about the kind of owner who had it. Since it’s not as if you can’t buy another Octavia I’d steer clear of this one for that reason alone and look at one that has been better looked after.

Closing the air intake so as not bringing in fumes.

Ok, I've got it. I've missed it because it was called "service" and I was looking for "oil" Set it back to "bad oil / fixed" and increased the mileage for next service Now it shows 9400 / 365 I'm using android "Car Scanner" and Veepeak OBD2 Scanner, in case this helps anyone in the future

I use 140NM for my 18s. Didn’t realise it should be 120. I shall have to check manual. I’ve now got 2 retaining pins and looking forward to changing the wheel at some point to try them out!

And all this because I was posted about the economy of my particular model. 😂😂😂

@davegr I'm with you.

@davegr Sorry to see that you are expecting everyone to just agree with your point of view or that you think they will have the same experience as you with new vehicles in the UK.

Time to lobby the EU & EU Commissioners then and your MP or Transport Minister about what Legislation was introduced on Mandatory features that in some cases are poorly implemented by manufacturers on some models. Good luck with that. Or just buy pre 2024 vehicles if your driving style is nor compatible with 'supposed safety features'. If the vehicle as sold is unsafe contact the DVSA / Dft, The PM and Secretary of State for Transport & your MP.

How can the car fight with me over lane positioning, or slam on the brakes? Are you suggesting everyone with a car built after 2019 needs to disable every single safety feature every time they get in the car? That sounds like the only way to be in “full control”. Whenever I have fun with the car, both TC and the ESP are turned “off”, meaning front assist and the like are unavailable. I don’t find myself suddenly unable to drive. Like I said, it’s about making life easier. If I have to stand I will, but if there’s a chair, why wouldn’t I sit down? You possibly speak for yourself on that point - I don’t need to practice staring at my speedo keeping the car at the limit. I can drive under it, I can drive over it, but why wouldn’t I just let the car do it for me? As I’ve said many times, it leaves me free to focus on more important things. I’m still able to intervene - closing a gap, opening a gap, etc. I hate to break it to you, but just because you’re not using adaptive cruise control, the car will still brake for you. Most newer cars will swerve for you, and in recent years they’ll pull over to the side of the road and call for help. ACC is a simple system. It allows the car to go up to a predetermined speed, keeping a set distance to the object in front. It’s not witchcraft, and it’s not taking over driving. I’m still sat in the seat, steering and with my feet on the pedals. As I’ve said before, the car will react far more quickly than I, or anyone else on this forum. Yes, front assist does sometimes have false triggers, but that’s nothing to do with ACC. I don’t use lane assist except when on the motorway. It annoys me. I don’t have BSA, but I’m assuming that also means the driver is lazy and can’t practice turning their head? That isn’t the point. It is an additional layer of safety, designed to enhance the spatial awareness of the driver. There will be a time in the future when people can’t believe that humans were once allowed to control two tons of metal moving at 70mph. The average UK driver is a complete moron with no spatial awareness, common sense or understanding of how to drive. If these safety features mean one extra life is saved, I’m all for them. One last thing - there is definitely a difference in braking assist between different cars. My vRS has only braked for me once (I was already hard on the brakes), whereas the little Ibiza does it once every few months. It’s not the sensitivity or anything - the system just seems to care less. If I sit on the brakes in the Ibiza, the hazards come on. If I sit on the brakes in my vRS, they don’t!

I have, but that was after an hour on track in a manual GT4. Lots of reactions to my above post! For a bit of background, I’ve done quite a bit with IAM and ARDS, so I’d like to think I know how to drive. The whole point of these systems is to make your life easier, safer and more efficient. It’s easier because I’m able to not stare at my speedometer. It’s safer because I can look ahead, behind and be far more aware of my surroundings. It’s more efficient because, as I said, I’m able to channel more energy into doing tasks the car can’t do - such as monitoring vehicles hundreds of meters ahead, and being more focused on the road and not my speedometer. I don’t use lane keep. I use lane assist as a safety feature, in case anything happens. One of my favourite uses of ACC and lane assist is changing my glasses to sunglasses. I am a reasonable prescription, and I’m not able to drive without my glasses. If it suddenly gets dark, I need to change my sunglasses out, or I can’t see! Having the car “drive itself” means that in the second I’m without my prescription something happens, I won’t instantly veer into a bridge support. These safety features also allow me to check my map, or directions, safe in the knowledge that if a car suddenly pulls out in front of me, I stand a reasonable chance of not having a smash. For all those that say “oh, you should stop and change glasses, you’re distracted on your maps, etc” - get real. If people had to stop every time a cloud meant they needed to change their eyewear, nobody would get anywhere. I am in full control of the car at all times. I use the systems to better myself as a driver. Do you think airline pilots sit all day with their hands on the sidestick and throttles? As I said, if using ACC, etc means that you have a collision, then you were going too fast, too close, or whatever, to begin with.

As long as the bills are there and everything is properly tracked (including manufacturer recalls), I wouldn’t have a problem with that.

Superb 100% SE L Exec or L&K. Personally I prefer pre facelift as you avoid the intrusive ADAS. Blame @Kosin for influencing me! I’ve now ordered another set of badges and some moon white touch up paint to try to properly colour code the badges.

a good resource... Skoda Superb - Specs of wheel sizes, tires, PCD, Offset and Rims - Wheel-Size.com I have bought a set of standard 16" steel wheels and 215/65/16 winter tyres for mine, were bought used. Painted them silver and instead of wheel trims used VW caddy centre caps. They are companies that supply winter sets with tyres if preferred.... will post a link if I can find one. Angelo

Brake fluid looks fine (quantity and colour), got the tyre off to tap the caliper and the front tyre seems to move alright. However, the process of doing that has led to the discovery that the rear drum brakes are also stuck. This unfortunately complicates things significantly and leads me to suspect that the stuck caliper was a symptom.

Plus 1 for gas check, mine wasn't working when I bought the car (2016 diesel vRS) a re-gas did the trick and a year on it's still fine. A word of warning - Do not engage the aircon at speed, wait for when the engine is at low revs. A former colleague switched it on at speed on the M5, the compressor drive belt snapped and wrapped itself around the crank pulley which then dislodged the cam belt. Result? A scrapped engine which cost £4,500 plus to replace in 2014.....

I used the wash bay at my work and it must of been a very strong TFR that was in the barrel. All I did was spray it on and rinse it off. Lesson learnt about TFR 🤦🏻‍♂️😂