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Why? Can they not use degreaser and a hose? Id do the same if I were you. Just wash engine bay with spray degreaser and water at car wash close to garage. No need for steam clean

Hello there, Recently purchased a 2011 Roomster HTP to replace my beloved Berlingo. Looking forward to lots of trouble free motoring, but always good to know of an owners club/forum for any issues/questions. Regards, Tony M

KIA / Hyundia are manufacturing perfect vehicles for all kinds of Police and Emergency vehicles Interceptor / pursuit vehicles. AWD included. As are BMW. This is why forces have these brends of BEV,s.

Yes Bap, I contacted the dealer today about the registration docs, only to be told that the they had yet to receive the docs themselves from the previous owner! But they assure me that I will have the registration doc by next wednesday..... In any case, a very helpful Briskoda member named Pete, deciphered the VIN, and now I have proof that my Kodiak is indeed a front wheel drive, code 1XO. Next stop, contact the insurance again, and persuade them that the car is a FWD instead of their listed AWD. Fun times ahead!! Thanks and Best Regards, Jim

Depends where you are and whether you drink over-hyped and over advertised lagers and that black double-fizz stuff, then it need not be 'Spoons, probably get a meal throw in at at 'Spoons. 😄

Modern keys 'switch off' if not moved so not so much of a problem now.

did you have option i radio to fold the mirrors when locking?

I believe that if you register a VIN at skoda-parts.com you can subsequently be offered only parts that suit that VIN. Haven't tried it myself, but it sounds handy if it works. Give it a try. Typically the info on the boot sticker only gives rear brake PR code, not front.

yes it does 👍

Hi Have gone through a couple of Cars since last was on the Forum, happy to be back. Picked up a Fabia 2013 1.2 Tsi DSG Car seems to be fine had a couple of repairs for recent MOT. Which is where I come to a problem. Drivers side seatbelt Stalk when putting the buckle in to the slot it is only with extreme difficulty that I can get it to engage. It appears as if someone has taken stalk apart to try and fix this. If I hold the red button down I can just about manage to engage the seat belt. So I’m probably looking at buying a new one or sourcing one from the Scrappy. Happy Days 😀

I find Skoda-Parts.com is the best for looking up OEM part numbers and verifying sizes especially with brake discs. I then buy from Auto-Doc but living in Ireland means I don't have any additional charges, probably would be best buying from euro car parts in the UK, I do occasionally buy from Skoda-Parts.com but only for OEM parts as I'm not paying dealer prices for parts

I notice the Nissan version of the Renault 5 is getting better reviews than the 5 on everything except 'looks'... It does look very similar but has better aerodynamics and range and more options and tech by all accounts.

Penultimate Sportline-a-like upgrade. 8mm black trim strip added to the the lower door trim. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EISPHpy OEM has a recess so would have had to change entire colour matched lower trim piece to get a completely stocked look. Yet again @JR RS leads the way with adding an external trim strip to achieve the same effect. Just the roof rails to change now for the full black out of chrome.

Penultimate Sportline-a-like upgrade. 8mm black trim strip added to the the lower door trim. OEM has a recess so would have had to change entire colour matched lower trim piece. Yet again @JR RS leads the way with adding an external trim strip to achieve the same look. Just the roof rails to change now for the full black out of chrome.

😄 I saw you were on line and looked to see where you were posting - and it was here. 😄 For 2010-2013 Octavia you'll want the Octavia section with the Mk2 forum and also perhaps look at the 'Octavia Guides' and 'Octavia Project' forums for more and wider information, if wanting more from the engine and/or car then you may also want to look in the 'General Forums' section at the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades', 'Tyres & Wheels' and 'Insurance & Legal Issues' forums but that might depend on what or who kaputt'd the Insignia engne. All sections and forums here, HTH, good luck. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/

Hi, sorry. I am looking for a MK2.5 Octavia VRS Estate (2010-2013).

Did multiple devices with this method, never get this problem. There was people which had this problem, solved with desoldering eeprom chip, or desoldering atleast vcc leg. Before desoldering double check did you connected everything ok, try with and without 1.8v adapter, if everything fails, I would try to unsolder vcc leg.

Hello, I am trying to activate Smarlink for my Octavia 3 (code MEN2_EU_SKGPX_P9160L). I bought the kit with the clamp and also the sop8-150mil tool to have a better contact. The main problem for me is that when I push normally the sop on the cip, the red light from ch341a turns off. I managed to get some reads and even writes by pushing the sop on the cip just a little bit but it has a very tiny spot when it works. So, did anybody encounter the problem when the red light from the programmer turns off when connecting to the cip? I also tried USB 2.0, USB 3.0, all the positions on the board. The tools bought:https://share.temu.com/6hTNo5D4bkB (sop8-150mil) https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHsA0iE Thank you in advance!

Hi. Im looking for a Mk2.5. Prefer the older styling. The prices seem so varied at the moment anywhere from £2k to £8k for a 2010-2010.

Mine came up as a warning, key fob battery low, as they came in 2's I just replaced both key fob batteries. What we are talking, the cost of a pint?

3v is a nomimal figure, same as with the car's '12v' battery which when new and fully charged (and outside of a VW product) could give a settled reading of 12.7v-12.9v (more if recently charged). If you have a fresh new unused remote battery of ther same make and model as the one showing 2.97v compare what that reads. Hopefully you know about keeping the proximity KESSY remote far enough away and perhaps sheilded from communicating with tha car unecessarily and draining its battery (say remote in room in your home and the car parked up all day nearby, within range, outside). Good practice is to alternate, however you like, the use of the second key, rather than retaining it as a spare, to get more even battery wear out of both and know the batteries are good and remotes are working, and know the location of the second remote rather than it be mislaid as a forgotten location of the spare.

Hello Warrior193, thank you for that. I was moderately surprised at the size of the estimates I’ve been receiving. I think the parts weigh in at around £1000 using OEM. So I guessed at about £2000 all in. What do I know. I live nearby Brighton so if that’s Ashtead (Leatherheadish) then yes it’s well within range. Where is Vagtek please. Google gives me one in Waterlooville. I would like a Mk2 Superb. However, if £4000 is the price for what is essentially a service schedule job; then I will start looking at 2.0 tdi models.

The TESLA model Y is the logical police pursuit police vehicle in the UK i am sad to say as a non TESLA fan. It has the 4 wheel drive and 155 mph top speed and quite decent range. Not the fastest charging but TESLA finally going to 800v architecture which is solving that. Massive boot which my experience working with Traffic police on multidisciplinary road exercises they love as well as quite high GVW so they can do their boxing maneuvers. Other police forces ie US have chosen EVs like the GM Blazer, also 500 hp + but we do not have that option. One wonders if more police forces will choose Chinese brands like BYD, Cherry etc for their value and spec and nice with flash charging in a few minutes which would be sad but European / Western cars seem to be not catching up with Chinese cars. Having had my own chasing police car and road block ahead which stopped me the police Officer thought I was trying to outrun him, I was on a 1,000 cc Yamaha, he said since he had radio which worked at the speed of light. Fortunately did not use a stinger and we just had a chat. Seemed to really help to gave a female passenger which changes their attitude ! We have had some interesting bad boy cars here in the Midlands, an A6 which someone dropped a Lambo V10 or V12 engine in to. Near 200 mph top speed and acceleration to match but eventually messed up and were caught but for a while gave West Midlands cops a headache.

@SteveSupurb - these r the meanings of those buttons....

I used the same trick I have before and unplugged the battery monitor cable and I have disabled stop/start. No tools and no cost.

It was reposted in 2022, hope that helps

Yes, I most certainly am. But unfortunately have no place else to turn to for this info! Hence requesting here.

I went to Skoda and they updated my system. I'm still getting the fault. I really appreciate your advice! Thank you!

Many thanks for that- I think I'll just get the dealer to look at it! Cheers

Update, problem solved. The garage had a straw to clutch at but it didn't feel relevant. I passed on above suggestions and getting the ECU checked over first seemed the sensible thing to do. Updated software and reflashed to latest version. Came back previous MAP had a fault code removed for oil. The car should've been been showing a glow plug warning on the dash. 2 oil pressure switches replaced and the problem appears to have gone. Thanks everyone for the time and consideration For anyone else with a no fault code showing, perhaps get the ECU checked out, not cheap but at least you should find where you're starting point is if someone's messed around with it.

Could this cause the speed being 0,64kmh no matter if im driving or still?

You have probably misdiagnosed the issue. The Octavia mk4 has know issue with ABS sensor rings disintegrating on the rear wheel hubs. So check the integrity of the ABS ring.

Only way is driving it. Checking for jerky erratic changes or over revving. I bought my one at 125,000 miles that had its first gearbox service at 110,000. I’ve done another at 129,000 to be sure. Garage said the oil was clean and the car drives fine. Might be a ticking timebomb but there’s no way of knowing. Personally I felt the risk was worth it to get the car I wanted.

I’ve always aimed to replace fey fob batteries before they slip below 3.0V .

We've got a red Poppy in a pot on the patio. Nice surprise to see it bloom a pink Poppy today: It's ever so delicate, so I'm not expecting it to last the day. Gaz PS: While I'm at it, I went to Manor Gardens in Bexhill yesterday. It's only a small place, an acre perhaps, but it's a bit of an oasis with some lovely bird song and plants. Doesn't come out so well on camera, but these roses were a stunning lilac, almost glowing: Whole bed of 'em! G

He's talking about fitting the camshaft from an SDI. It's a reasonably common upgrade as the lobes have a slightly longer lift. S-Tune1.9TDI PD SDI Camshaft KitS-Tune 1.9 TDI Billet Steel Camshaft Kit (Mild Upgrade) Our camshafts are produced to the highest quality specification of any billet steel camshaft currently for sale. Using the larger SDI Camshaft h

@NICK87 Even if you are safe what about other road users, like cyclists or bikers if you lose lots of oil while driving or even worse diesel? How much oil or diesel are you seeing?

You have a diesel or oil leak and a burning smell and the garage says it should be ok to drive????? Doesn't sound like good advice to me. Anything obvious like an oil patch on the floor or areas under the bonnet that are wet?

Doesn't it say in the manual that it doesn't work well in the rain or if the car is dirty. I gave up on the feature in the end. Too many times kicking the underneath of my boot in the supermarket car park with no result. Quicker to just use the key! 😂

Just picked my Blue 130 up from Rainworth Skoda today and am totally in love with it . I was stuck between this and a polo gti . Glad i went Skoda fabia is just a way better looking car in my opinion

Hi, welcome. You don't say which model of VRS estate you're looking for but there are model and year specific forums, as well as more general forums, on Briskoda where you can find and/or ask for real world advice and information from model owners and others. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ I personally recommend that whilst looking for the car you look at and read the 'Owner's Manual' for the model and year you are considering as it gives lots of information about the car and what it might have, the servicing and maintenance, etc., etc. and if you also continue to read and refer to it during your ownership you can save yourself time, hassle and money particularly from unecessary visits to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and you will know about yor car than many long term owners. You can get a free downloadable PDF version of the Owner's Manual(s) from the official VWŠkoda manuals site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Good luck.

Update: I decided to have another go and this time managed to get the motor out. One of the biggest issues is getting adequate lighting in there so you can see what you're doing. For anyone else attempting this, I have two pieces of advice different to YRSCupraNut's suggestions: Just disconnect all three wiring connectors from the glovebox. It's pretty straightforward and then there's no danger of the light switch assembly falling apart. To get the motor out, cut off the cable tie that VRSCupraNut says you don't need to remove. This allows the motor cradle to drop down and access is then WAY easier. Like lewiswal47, I discovered that the motor casing was not fully closed, allowing the black cog wheel to move out of alignment. After various different attempts to get it all back together and stable, I decided the chances were that it wouldn't stay that way for long, and have ordered a new motor from eBay for £15.

I actually just did this job today, My motor started clicking a few months ago and I only just got time to do so. I didn't purchase a new motor, I fixed* my current one. I found that, somehow, it had popped it's casing off. The black cog seen below was the culprit. Upon repositioning the black cog correctly, amongst some cleaning and greasing, I put the casing back on and found two of the clips that hold the casing on were loose and let it pop out easily, so I stuffed some tissue behind them to help hold the casing firmly shut. I then spent what felt like an eternity trying to put the motor back in the correct position. Note when returning the motor into place, the correct positioning for the cogs, and note the 2 arrows indicating the "key"; *This diagram is from a RHD Model, so its flipped. *I dont know how long the fix will last, Maybe ill need to purchase a new motor. But for now, its working