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Result!! "Dear Mr. Davies I’m happy to let you know we have successfully recovered the costs involved in your vehicle damage claim from the responsible party. This claim has now been closed in your favour and I’m pleased to confirm that the no claim discount has not been affected. Yours sincerely Minna Jacob Minna Jacob Recovery Claims Consultant"

Bought myself a steel wheel. Flat Bottom, Perforated, Heated, View Button, DSG Paddles. 3V0419091AF BGW

Ok - I've just downloaded them to check them out and there is nothing wrong with them. The file contents and the file structures are all correct. I see from your profile that you have a 2016 car so it's possible that you may have a MIB1 device and if that's the case then I'm sorry as these files won't work for you.

I don’t suppose this qualifies, but as well as the Octavia, I have the three wheeler…

Is it a 230 or a 245? I’m assuming the latter, but always good to ask. Rear pad part number for 310x22mm appear as - 1K0 698 451 A/B/E/F/K/M 4F0 698 451 A/B/J

ICE cars still far too polluting. Newer better and interesting to see Ireland offering big money to scrap older ICE cars. As well as cleaner, and I still see numerous reports saying EVs are about 10 times less likely to catch fire based on fure brigades and insurance not news reports. The biggy is running costs. Ibhave been shredding my 6 year and older receipts ad I do each year and can see the thousands a year I use to spend on diesel and petrol. I dont think i am spending mire than £600 on three EVs doing about 26k miles a year. Tomorrow, 13th of June, there is 9 hours of negative priced electricity abd it touch -9p per KWh. I will use about 75 KWh of electricity in those 9 hours, mostly charging the EVs abd being paid to charge the cars is a very different scenario than the fortune I was spending on diesel and petrol.

Got my ABS sensor fixed. I had to do it twice because I got the wrong part first time. Beware anyone attempting, make sure you find out the original part number and find a compatible one via autodoc or get it via Skoda.

Could you have caught the gear switch with your elbow / clothing as you got in knocking it into D by accident and leading it to creep forward?

@MoCheshire Check the battery.

It was on the flat and driving on the electric motor

Ok for short-term emergencies - but better to keep the correct concentration to maintain corrosion protection.

Info for anyone interested when travelling from UK to France, just completed the Eurotunnel crossing. I can confirm that the clock doesn’t change automatically, speed and distance units do not change automatically. You have to change them all manually and don’t forget to manually change the light settings for driving on the right too (although as someone else mentioned I suspect the light settings is more to do with the detection technology rather than light pattern). At least doing it manually I could set speed and distance units to kph and km but leave the fuel consumption units in mpg. Still would prefer it to change automatically though…

Thanks it is in fact G13 as I went to check at lunch, at the same time half a litre may not impact the strength too much if use water instead? My main concern is to understand if it could be the waterpump on the Gen 4 engines also

Hi all, bought my first Skoda last autumn. It's a Fabia. I'm in Cheshire (as you can probably tell)

Hi all. Thanks for the replies and suggestions. Much appreciated and its good to hear of other peoples stories and issues. I have not tried premium fuel yet and even though, im doubtful, i will give it a go. I didnt find the injector cleaner nor fuel conditioner help. With regards to o2 sensors. Yes i forget to mention i did test these. Voltages / graph of them bouncing from top to bottom on bank 1 looked good and operational. Bank 2 / downstream was steady. Air box, maf, map, throttle body, piping all been stripped, inspected and cleaned. New seals on throt bod inc seals on air pipe to turbo. Car is manual so no dsg Fuel trims.. from memory and i cannot find a screenshot were bouncing from -20 to +20 depandant on drive but would level out to near 0 when crusing or idling. Long term would sort it self out and be +/- 5-10 I will try some prem fuel and and an italian tune as i have a big A road very near me with some hills.. bye bye good mpg 😅

In fact, in the UK, the A/C technician is legally obliged to perform a refrigerant leak test before recharging any A/C system.

I had it re-flashed, that was a long time ago!

@nta16 MAP please, not MAF and there are a couple of them. True about the better cleaning properties of the UL+, but even increasing the Octane rating of the fuel might quickly reveal a change which might help sort this "fluffing" activity. When I had that very slightly with my wife's 2015 same engine Polo, maybe because I had had that with the previous 2002 Polo 1.4, I was extremely quick in spotting it - but maybe after a single tankful of UL+ it went away and so far stayed away - why/how I don't know, but it does not do that now at all - and I will quickly feel it when/if it returns - a really horrible feeling especially when these 1.2TSI engines, well at least the 110PS version, are brilliant in terms of drivability and fuel economy.

Good morning to the whole community, I’m franklett from Italy. Since November, I’ve been the proud owner of a 2021 Octavia G-tec… the Elegance trim with metallic blue paint! It’s absolutely stunning. Thank you for welcoming me into this wonderful community

If this is factual, then this will be a complete game changer, leaving only the charging conundrum that could be the roadblock to many more people adopting electric cars.

I bought 4 parallelogram shape digital gauges and 2 round shape analogue gauges and kept them in the self for years because i couldn't find anyone to install them. I was disappointed and i thought that all were over till one day i found via internet a shop which worked mainly with ICE systems,was far away from home but when i talk to him on the phone he agreed to make a new ''insert'' in the console. I remove it from the car,put it in a bag and went to his shop,we agreed for the design and after few days i took the new console in my hands,some sort of MDF wood with resin and in black mat paint. I start a new search for a car-electrician to make the harness-connections etc and finally i found a non local which said he can do it,meanwhile the situation in the console was this: After 2 days the console was ready: I was very happy and kept it for years till a new need came-up (central lock button) and the wear of time (me and the material) stroke.

To me that looks like the eyes of a robot looking around, first loooking at the passenger side then wondering what all those things are above its head. 🙃 😁

Hi, joined here because I recently bought a '22 Skoda Kamiq. I wanted to buy an Octavia Estate but I was over ruled by my wife 😆I'm sure I'll win that argument in the future though as we collect more children stuff.

Hello, I activated Smart Link on my swing 3 radio, at Skoda Octavia mk3 MY 2018, so I want to share with everyone how it can be done. DISCLAIMER: You do it at your rensponsability, is not easy to do, and you can mess things out, possible brick you device. Do it only if you have expereince in this kind of activity. Physical tools needed: Tool for removing radio 4 pieces, just google "VAG radio removal tool", cost about 1€. CH341A Mini Programmer, cost about 10€. PC/Laptop Philips screwdriver Software needed (all software in attachment): CH341A driver NeoProgrammer Python (In windows 11, open start menu, type cmd, press enter, type Python, press enter. Microsoft store will open with Python 3.13, click on "Get" and wait to install complete.) Python script for activating CarLink (MEN2SwingPatch.py) Install CH341A driver and NeoProgrammer, make sure python is installed, put MEN2SwingPatch.py script at some accessible location (for example at root D:\). Firstly, you need to remove radio from car, its pretty simple, just insert four "keys" and pull the radio out. Then remove 6 screws from the top and 2 from the bottom, split display from the unit, and pull the top cover to expose top of the PCB. I removed PCB fully from the case to check is there present video chip for reversing camera (unfortunately not), but you don't have to do that. After top cover is removed, and PCB is accessible, you have to find ST 95256 R EEPROM. Put clamp from the CH341A on the EEPROM chip, make sure red cable (clamp) is on the pin 1 (EEPROM). Clamp connector insert in appropriate adapter, and adapter insert in CH341A in part intended for 25XX, make sure red cable facing toward lever. Plug CH341A in computer USB port. All this can be sawn in picture named EEPROM 2. Run NeoProgrammer.exe, go to Hardware tab, select "CH341 Black". Next go to IC>Search>type 95256>select M95256R> click on Read IC. This is the tricky part, if you get all blank result it means that clamp on the eeprom not have a good grip, try to move clamp left-right, take it off and put on again. After 5-6 times of re adjusting clamp I finally got the eeprom content. Save it on pc (for example at root D:\ as 1.bin). Read IC couple more times to be sure that you have good conection to the eeprom chip (if you want to take extra check, you can compare couple .bin with Notepad++ to be sure that you have identical read every time, this is good sign that all is correct). Make sure you dont move accidentaly clamp or PCB. Click on start, type cmd, press enter, navigate to D:\ (place where you saved EEPROM dump and script), type python men2swingpatch.py 1.bin, press enter. If everything is correct you should get printed on display TRAIN:xxx, FAZIT: xxx (see picture "script"), and now you have file named 1.bin_patched.bin. This new file we now need to write back to the eeprom. Get back to the NeoProgrammer, click on File>Open and find 1.bin_patched.bin at D:\, click on Write IC. After writing you can read it again and compare to patched bin, just to be sure its written correct. Now you can disconnect clamp, assemble unit and put it back in the car. Enjoy in your unlocked Smart Link. DOWNLOAD needed software

Thanks for the info. Some serious tech there!!

Mines all ready now, collecting at the weekend

Replying to my own post above - not a good start, no sign of the salesman when I went in. They wanted me to hang around as he'd be in soon, but then they said he'd been delayed so I left. Saw him when collecting the car - appt had been booked by someone else but not put his diary. Nothing changes with this dealer's admin! Anyway, he said Skoda are chucking money at non-EVs that can be registered this month (so by the end of the quarter). Around £6500 off an SEL, making it about £30K, £6800 off a Sportline, making it £32K. Valued ours at £16K. So a lot of money to change to basically the same thing.

73/100 is provisionally sold pending full payment. Deposit received.

I’m in Edinburgh most of my journeys are town driving with stop start traffic ( should have got a petrol , wife once a week goes to Costco which is about 20 mins each way on bypass

wheels are 9x20 ET37, tyres 235/35 you dont let your wife/gf drive on these kind of wheels :D my wife never drove Superb without me in it, she is affraid to scratch it as its too big for her. She drives Opel Adam :D

Mark 1 Fabia vRS. MK2 superb 170 estate TDi, workhorse. MK3 Superb 280 L&K estate. 2s not enough 3s too many 😜

They do look utterly lovely. But looking at the first pic, and the profile of the wheels to tyres, my Mrs would utterly ruin those rims in a New York minute.

Added small green stripe on top of black line on the side and wrapped center caps also in green

Just to clear up something, I'm looking at engine CHHB. Not the CJXA. So it'll be the 220tsi in my case. I've found a useful resource that seems to answer my question Skoda Superb III Combi 2.0 TSI (220 Hp) DSG | Technical s...Technical Specs: Skoda Superb III Combi 2.0 TSI (220 Hp) DSG Station wagon (estate) /2015, 2016, 2017, 2018/ | Fuel consumption, Dimensions, 220 Hp, 243 km/h, 150.99 mph, 0-100 km/h: 7.1 sec, 0-60 mph I think this satisfies my question, so thanks for your help guys.

I must buck up with the brake luid, never changed it in any car, all new, in 63 years, at least 3 were in the family for over 20 years, had to renew a front brake cylinder in a 1980 Formel E Golf and NCT mandated two front flexible hoses in a 9N Polo, both at around 15 years old.

The system just saved me from hitting another car, I was going back from parking and didn't look if anyone was coming and it was but the system anticipated it and brealed for me. Impressive, I'm happy to know it exists.

For this version, I do it in two steps: 1803->1941->1989. 1. Download both files, unzip them on your computer. 2. Copy the contents of 1941 to a flash drive (preferably a good, branded USB-C) to the root directory. 3. Insert the flash drive into the USB-C port. 4. Open/tilt the hood. 5. Start the engine (it's best not to drain the battery). 6. Hold down the Menu button until the tablet enters service mode. 7. Select "Update" and select the USB-C port where the flash drive is (it will be highlighted). 8. Select "Install." 9. Wait, wait, wait - 2-3 restarts and it's done. The whole process takes about 15-20 minutes. 10. After a while, an additional fix will probably be released via OTA. 11. Repeat the procedure with the 1989 file. 12. Enjoy the new software. ;) If you need more information or help, send me a private message.

thanks Skomaz and Warrior193. My wife is certain that she did not catch the gear stick. Thats the puzzle. Could have brushed the brake pedal but it shouldn't move without the gear being engaged. She is not sure whether the door was ajar (apparently auto hold doesn't work with door open)

Update: Quite a lot has been done to the car but the issue still persists. Dealership changed : mechatronics, then after mechatronics didint help the whole dsg assembly, all of the mounts including subframe. After theese works the car drives much better, no more thug from 2 to 1. Also gear changes happen a lot quicker both in sport and in D mode. But partial throttle (around 25%) upshift from 3 to 4 is still noticable when shift happens in 1800-2200 rpm region, it looks like rpms jump in D3 right before going into D4 (all of the other gearshifts are not). Vibration trough steering wheel on D4, D5, D6 when going low speed high gear still persists from 1000 rpm till about 1400 rpm. Seriously considering selling the car as it was and still is an exhausting experience. Drove around 150 km now on the new gearbox hoping it would adapt but it hasnt so far 😶