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It's helpful to others to include engine details. Your profile only says it is a 2014 Octavia Estate. I have similar year and type to yours with a 1.4tsi engine and is a manual. I get between 48 and 65 mpg on a run depending on driving environment and my demeanour. The displayed consumption can be a bit optimistic, and you should compare to manually calculated consumption when refuelling for a reality check. My past two Octavia estates (mk2 and mk3) have been among the most versatile, economical and pleasurable vehicles I have owned. I'm not enamoured with the current crop of 'electronic nannied' new options so hanging on to my current one for now.

Yes, I should have stated that mine is a 1.4 tsi. I manually calculated the mpg by 'fuel actually used on the journey'. The 'displayed' figure was an estimated 60 mpg, against the actual 69. Thanks for your reply. Like you, I'm hanging on to mine, hoping for a few more years of very enjoyable driving. Cheers

My mate Jay’s Mazda Octavia.

Yes, but not with an Altea gearbox.

Lovely setting and lots of great Skodas on show.

When it stops working.

Still working for me after this cleaning, no problem with the heat from the last days 👍🏻

Well done Cedwing. My wife sometimes thinks I'm an idiot. Rarely, but on this occasion, hands up. Thing is, I had sunglasses, no issue. Last week I got new shades, updated prescription and yes, turns out first lot weren't polarised, but these are. Actually a dramatic effect! Thank you Cedwing.

The only one there, shocking.

Per title can it be done, I have 6 box available fro a Seat Altea 1.2tsi. Fabia is a Feb 2010, Altea is March 2010.

Thank you for the suggestions. The trade in book value on my crv was £300, which I assume is just scrap price. I could probably get £900 private. I messaged the dealer about a 2017 2.0 tsi, but it was £9500 with 101k. Prices are mad and I just cant let my old girl go for 100's. The family won't let me sell it either so they said retract the offer! Gonna run it the CRV to the ground and perhaps have abother 1,2,10 years left of cheap motoring. There is a Superb in my future, but hopefully not for a few years.

I'm currently running a 1.5TSI Octavia Mk4, but previous car was a '14 plate Superb Mk2 hatch 1.4TSI (manual 'box) which I bought in 2016 with 10k miles on the clock. Ran it for 4 years and 60k miles. Clearly the 1.4 won't have the oomph of a 2 litre unit but is plenty powerful enough for long hauls up the motorways and A9 from Hampshire to near Inverness, often fully loaded. I found the engine to be very flexible and 6th gear long enough for relaxed motorway cruising. On long runs I was averaging over 50mpg which I was very pleased with given the size of car. My now son-in-law has had it for over 5 years and it's done something like 140+k miles - and still running very nicely; rear springs are a bit tired though. Both SiL and I are surprised at how well the ol' bus is doing. If you're looking at 2016-18 era cars then that's likely a Mk3 Superb which I believe came with the updated 150bhp 1.4tsi engine, IIRC mine was 125bhp. One of the last Mk2 cars may suit your needs and will be a few £££s less - just a thought.

Almost Pete. When it stops working and it's too hot 😁

I usually go for the larger engines in cars as I do a bit of towing plus I believe (may be wrong) they dont have to work so hard as the smaller ones to get a car of the superb size and weight going. As previously said the 2.0 tsi is a well proven engine and as long as it has a very good service history its the one I would go for. All my cars have been diesel for years but not doing the mileage anymore and dpf is constantly regen. I miss the 1.9tdi pd with no dpf. Next one will be either the 1.8 or 2.0tsi Alasdair

hi guys, i was wondering what your average consumption is with this engine, 1.4 plug-in, I'm looking to buy this version, but i dont know about the consumption. On the internet, they say about 4, 5, 6 l/100km

At the risk of stating the obvious, it depends on how much you plug it in. Most of my local journeys are pure electric, but I do much longer ones at least once a month. I never bother to charge when I'm away from home, it's too slow and too expensive, so those journeys are usually petrol-only. Over the 60,000km I've had it I see an average of 4.4 l/100km overall. On long (500km+) journeys where it's running exclusively on petrol, most of which are at 110+ km/h on motorways, I get around 6.5 l/100km. When it's petrol-only on slower roads, maybe 5.5 - 6 l/100km.

On a recent trip to Cornwall my most expensive charge was 63.5p/kWh at Gloucester services. My public charge costs apart from that were on AC posts averaging around 53p. My average cost per mile on this trip (leaving out home charging) was 12.9p while the same trip in my previous diesel car would have been around 18.2p/mile. Public charging can be reasonable and currently public charging is competitive with fossil cars.

You make some interesting points. My method of calculating the mpg was 'leaving on a first-click-full-tank and topping up on arrival'. Petrol used against mileage covered gives a pretty accurate mpg. I used the method on the reverse journey too, which I didn't mention in my original post, and achieved 65 mpg. My car's in for service soon, but not sure it needs one! It'll be interesting what the dealership has to say. Thanks for your reply.

I used to religiously record fills into an app and compare against the results against the 'since refuelled' display. I've posted this before but when my 1.4tsi was brand new the consumption displayed was actually pessimistic (showing about 4mpg worse than actual) but over 120,000km the display has gradually moved through precisely accurate to now being about 4mpg optimistic. I no longer use the app but I do perform a quick calculation to compare each refill (hopefully to a consistent level) for a rough assessment of display accuracy and see if there might be mechanical concerns requiring attention. Actual consumption is down from new but I have a suspicion the current tyres (Continentals) are not the best for consumption as they are quite noisy now. At our current low annual mileage it is going to be while before they are replaced.

It’s great that your consumption figures are so good. However, how are you actually measuring the fuel used? Filling to “first click”, may be more accurate than the supplied data, however it’s not “accurate”. I can’t imagine a manufacture would knowingly underscore their mpg figures by over 10%, any more that they would over score the figures in any way. I could believe that they underscored buy 2/3 %. They do have a legal obligation to tell the truth (diesel and immersions scandals are hopefully a thing of the past) 🤞🤦‍♂️. Of course, if your driving economically is warm weather on decent roads with minimal traffic. The figures will be great. Friday evening, I returned home from Shepton Mallet via the A39/37 21 miles. Normal consumption 53-58mpg, depending on traffic temperature and time of day. The car recorded 52.4mpg on the way (hotter temps but the end of the busy period), and 62.1 on the return. There are hills, villages with 20 mph limits, traffic lights, and it’s a bus route. Not what you’d use to prove your consumption figures. My point is your figures are great 🤩, but possibly only as accurate as the cars data. As were mine 🤦‍♂️

@DieselMonte might be able to help. Maybe look at his build thread and 6 speed gearbox conversion.

I know a guy who might be able to answer but summoning his name could cause a shift in the continuum. @Tech1e

I'm with the above opinions of get it done only if it needs doing. The wife's Octavia is 9 years old with 55k on the clock and has never been re-gassed, my Superb is 3 1/2 years old with 130k on it and also never been re-gassed, and on both cars the aircon is working great as has been shown in the recent heatwave temperatures of this past week.

I was having exactly the same problem with my 2014 Seat Toledo 1.2 TSi and I found this thread by searching the web for these symptoms. Thankfully I had only tried replacing one other part earlier this week, when I found this thread, so I immediately looked at my coilpack and leads. In taking the first lead off the coilpack, I found the end of the lead was stuck on the pack, because of corrosion. I also had corrosion on at least one other lead where it plugs onto the pack. So I replaced the leads and the coilpack and this solved my problem. It is quite difficult to describe the symptoms to someone, as seen from this thread. I would say that while anywhere between about 20mph and about 40mph, and while accelerating quite hard in 2nd or 3rd gear, and with the RPM from about 2000 to 3000, there would be a sudden, significant drop in power, followed by it immediately coming back, and then dropping again and coming back again - multiple times within one second - hence someone calling it 'juddering' - so much that the passengers could feel themselves being shaken backwards and forwards. I really pushed it hard one time to try to work out what was going on, and it caused a load of faults and warnings to appear on the display, and it to go into limp mode. The problem manifested badly one day last week, but looking back on the last few months, I've now realised that it had started to happen, but much less severely, a few months ago. So, this may help someone: in my experience, the first sign of it back then, was that I would pull out onto a 60mph road from stopped, accelerate quite hard, and everything would be normal until there was what I thought of as a 'dead spot', probably while in 3rd. It then immediately picked up again. I noticed this quite often in that same place each time after leaving work. I put it down to something to do with the turbo (not knowing much about how they work), or more likely, a worn/dirty region on a potentiometer - either the accelerator, or the throttle body position feedback sensor (having already had very similar symptoms due to a broken internal connection to its PCB a few months ago). Before I found this thread, I checked the accelerator pot, which was fine, and I replaced the throttle body with a second hand one. So thanks everyone for your input in 2018!

Yes it will, and there by stands a potential fire risk right there in the extension lead. So many of them are only rated at 8 or 10amps because of cable sizes used. Many of the cheaper ones are 1 or 1.5mm cable, and if it was made in China etc, that cable is often steel not copper, which is another problem area.

We had the Fabia done after about 8nor 9 years, the Octavia done after about 9nyears and I've just done ethe Kodiaq at 8 years... All due to reduced cooling rather than anything else

Does the tyre pressure sticker plate list the tyre sizes. Skoda KAMIQ: KW:70>110 Vin:NW Year:19 - Caliper: PCD:5x100 GVW:1750 Max Speed:195 Kerb Weight: NutBoltThreadType:M14x1.5 NutBoltHex:17 BoltLength:27 NutBoltTorque:120 Tyre Load Speed Norm Press Laden Press Rim Size Offset Cent Bore RunFlat Extra Load Track Max RimWidth F: 205/65R16 95 H 6 x 16 38 57.1 8 R: 205/65R16 95 H 6 x 16 38 57.1 8 HTH. Thanks. AG Falco

Your question about the TPMS depends on whether you have indirect or direct system. More likely you have indirect system - which uses data from the ABS wheel sensors and is not affected by changes in wheel sizes, provided all wheels are same size. Does your TPMS display actual tyre pressures - or simply flag pressure loss?

Very possibly affected by screen replacement if the rain sensor behind the RV mirror was damaged.

This from the pdf version Owners Manual I have...

My car is 10 years old and is just as chilly as when I bought it. It's never been re-gassed and I have it on all the time (unless the windows are open).

My first Skoda was a Superb (Mk1). I'd choose the 2.0 out of those two. The EA888 is a particularly well proven unit. I have it in my GTI, and the Octavia I had before it. That's not to say the 1.4 is bad, because it's not. To the contrary, if it's the one I'm thinking of, it's a peach and very well regarded 👍 The bigger engine will obviously move the Superb along better. Gaz

Marc sent me the file. I followed this installation tutorial: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tiguan/s/cQ0GKPrq1u

Are you wearing polarised sun glasses?

Once again, the ACC function is protected by a SwaP key. If you didn't have factory-installed ACC, this key is missing. Without the key, there is no active ACC. not always

Did you try 12v accross bulb or use meter. Have had bulbs blow and short out so meter reads ok. Alasdair

Is it not to store the retractable cover !

My wife wears varifocals and does not notice them.

Hi everyone. This is my first post on this forum. I've read this entire post and I have a question for you. I'm in Australia and trying to update the firmware from version MOI3_RW_SKMQB_P30603P. I've already downloaded versions MOI3_RW_SKMQB_P32400P and MOI3_RW_SKMQB_P33000P. I've looked through the files and see that I need version MOI3_RW_SKMQB_P30803P. Where can I find this version? I'm not even sure if version P30803P exists for RW.

Yup. All the wrong ones are ten a penny. You can fit the newer 2 spoke style if you match the components (view, heated etc) if you already have newer airbag. You then just need a lin adaptor to convert the signals. I think they are relatively cheap. If you find a wheel you like then @Cairus is the man to advise on connections to make it work

Is that a "Sprog Eyed Fright"?

Not usually dodgy battery but one that has been perhaps over used, abused or neglected. Doesn't take very long or much effort to check the state of charge of the battery and whilst doing that check the battery post terminal and terminal post clamps are clean and tight, check main earths and connections are also clean and tight. If battery needs charging then a good long drive without using much electrics or better still a full, long, low, recharge using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's manual' and instructions for charger maintainer. VWŠkoda website for "virtual"(?) 'Owner's manual'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models You are dealing with German (over?) complex and (over?) intwined computer systems and programs on the car that will have errors and omissions, "glitches" and updates in the programming and computers can have brain-farts as we know. If your car is a late 2020 perhaps Covid and chip shortages might also apply< i forget dates and details now. The computer system run on 5v which is thin so if battery is low, but headlights can still seem bright enough and engine starts, the computers can throw up all sorts of warnings, lights, (error codes) and issues, loads and loads of threads and posts on this problem on this site. If you are lucky this could just be a one-off computer brain-fart and perhaps having switched the ignition "off 'n' on agen" cleared it, fills one with joy, if not over-confident about computer system perhaps.

Officially it’s every 2 years

Last time I had a heated screen was in 1990 on a Sierra Ghia. Soon got used to the elements & didn't find them distracting. Given that was 36 years ago, I find it staggering that it's not a standard fitment across every manufacturer/model, given the safety implications. But I may be prejudiced as my mother was wiped out by a "letterbox" merchant. ☹️