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The Low Emission Zone in Glasgow is certainly not about money making. It costs more to administer than it brings in. But then people should learn or change their vehicles and stop being fined. Not everyone can get away with failing to pay time after time. Plenty still do though.

There could well be a simple explanation regarding this, and again, I'm not saying it is, but there are such things as creative accountancy, which is nothing new at all. Or maybe, just maybe, the low-emission zones were always planned as part of something else altogether, and possibly TFL gave the game away when they were advertising for staff to run the LEZ for, I believe, Coventry. That is nowhere near or has anything to do with London, yet they are involved, and the job description mentioned road pricing was the goal. So with that in mind, are all of these LEZs with their network of roadside cameras the preparation for the PPM scheme by networking these cameras and new ones being installed, like the massive growth of the Average Speed Camera installations, even on normal 2-lane roads such as the A414 between Chelmsford and Harlow, which is already operational now? After all, the government knew that with EVs they were going to be missing out on the income from fuel duty, so was this the back-door entry into PPM? If they announced that it was their intention to introduce PPM, it might have derailed their electrification plans. It has to be considered that LEZs could effectively have been planned as Trojan horses.

Massive thanks to everyone in this thread for hosting the files and providing instructions on how to do this update manually. I went from version 1810 to 1989 without issues (so far at least) in my 2020 Octavia. The old version was slow and had a few bugs so was a welcome update, the new version feels much snappier. From start to finish took 45-50 minutes plus a factory reset straight after. My car for some reason did not get OTA updates and I even asked my Skoda dealer for help as it felt risky but they just said "we don't do that" which feels crazy. The car is great but the support from Skoda less so and the documentation isn't very clear either in the manual or on their website. I'll add pics in case anyone is interested in part numbers and the like.

I'm still getting the Application update every day, its probably been 2 months now, I've done a lot of Googling on the subject and found its a Skoda wide problem, happens on any model, it seems owners are being told by Skoda dealears that Skoda are aware and there should be a new update to sort it, most have been told that there's nothing the dealer can do, either because they need to see the update trying to install, or basically even they have to wait for the new Skoda update. I have read of a couple of cases where they claim they sent theirs in and it was sorted, but nearly all have said they've been told it can't be sorted. I have refrained from ringing Skoda because I have a pretty good idea of what I'll be told, but after 2 months now its getting pretty frustrating it popping up every day.

MEB cars have a separate battery heating/cooling loop but share the car's aircon unit for cooling. There's a three port valve that controls flow to the coolant loops.

Just done a quote for late September and it's an additional £159, which seems fair enough when the value of the car is £45k

Just in case anyone is interested. I took my key to my local Timpsoms, they wanted £220. Went to a local locksmiths, who put me in touch with a local auto tech place, where they cut a new key, provided a new case with my “inners” inside it, for £50. So quite happy with that.

Hi all, Anyone else getting repeat Infotainment updates that don't appear to be installing, I'm getting this problem on my 2024 Superbs Infotainment unit nearly every day, when I look on the Information tab I can see the updates and when it says they're installed, and a prompt to say the installation will be active the next time the car is started, so all looks correct. But literally the next day I'll get another message on the screen to say updates are available and ready to install, and the same process has repeated itself for about 2 weeks now. I've looked on the Net and it looks like its a Skoda issue over all the ranges but there doesn't seem to a resolution. Has anyone else had this? If so have you got it sorted or is it a trip to the dealer? Cheers

# ECE 2026.06 29.2 Gb version":{"major":1167955,"minor":26030,"build":1},...,"catalog_version":52 261E0 Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P177_EU_202630_Offline_Update.zip Files inside: 2026.05.27 Downloadable: 2026.08.19 Published: 2026.--.-- # ROW 2026.06 - - - Previous threads: -> 2026.02 -> 2025.02-06 -> 2024.06

Top, dat ga ik morgen even testen. Bedankt voor jullie reacties!

Yes, the green one. Now I have, Black with M on the end.

Not going back through this thread but it seems that ULEZ was about clean air and healthier people and not a money making scam after all. "Scientists 'stunned' by children's lung recovery in ultra low emission zone" https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/c1l1r1zne1ro https://edition.cnn.com/2026/08/19/health/london-ulez-lung-health-study-scli-intl https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2026/aug/18/ulez-hardest-decision-mayor-london-impact-sadiq-khan

@Ianhar You are doing lots of miles so is the car getting charged daily and running on electron and petrol. Do you start runs on petrol and save the battery for use later or how do you work it? Allowing it to warm up is maybe doing no favours as far as oil / petrol use compared to start it and go and do not boot it until engine oil temp is up a bit.

I have no idea what batteries are under this one it might still be NMC (Nickel Manganese Cobalt) and as it's a MY27 car it comes with a 84KwH battery rather than 82KwH, plus loads of software updates & differences

This is the list of parts and costs for the repair (approx £1700). Plus ten hours labour (approx £1500). Socket head bolts with inner polygon head x17 £28.90 Silicon Sealant x1 £41.37 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Cap x1 £10.10 Deep groove ball bearing x1 £80.60 Oil Seal x2 £35.90 Cleaning solution x1 £33.34 Plug x1 £6.95 Driveshaft rear left x1 £545 Driveshaft Rear right £561 Gear oil x2 £113.16 Coolant x20 £109.20 Exactly my thoughts. I am going to contact Skoda directly...

So....Dealer agrees it is the rear driveshaft issue. They also agree that, generally, Skoda DO offer 'goodwill' financial assistance as they know it us a design/manufacturing fault. My car has done 110k miles so basically tough **** 🤬🤬🤬🤬

That was a good £10 more than it is when already expensive at £12 a litre.

Warrior193, no its petrol as above, the suitable oil was £22 for 1 ltr, thankfully its not really my problem as its a lease car, but while oil consumption was expected and acceptable when i was in the motor trade in the 70’s, it should not be these days, not with the materials and machine processes that modern engines are made with now, as i said in a previous post, lots of new vehicles over the years, petrol and diesel and this is the first one thats need oil between services.

I can't answer your question but this might help

The front lip and rear spoiler really do make it along with it being lower. I’m edging closer to having nothing left to do on mine other than lowering… What’s the bhp change in this time?

^^^ A 1.5TSI Hybrid. PS. recommended by VW / Skoda, VW508 00 / 509 00. So 0w20 FS IV.

I'd consider 1 litre of lube oil consumed in more than 11K miles a very reasonable usage rate. Is this a diesel hybrid? How much did you get 'stung' for the oil - consider buying the correct grade from a reputable online seller, in 5 or more litre quantities for topping-up between oil changes.

Tested the code after letting the car sit for 6 hours (cold engine): Cold Engine (Ignition ON, Engine OFF): The code was static and refused to clear. I tried clearing it 4 times in a row, but it reappeared instantly on every rescan without even starting the engine. Warm Engine: After driving to lunch and back, I cleared the code on ignition—it wiped cleanly and stayed gone. Will check the rest of the suggestions when I come home. And retray to clear fault when the engine is cold.

Comparison shots of Gandalf evolving over the years - from brand new to now.

I would have thought the parking brake would be slower to release than the auto hold ? The parking brake is a mechanical worm drive whereas the auto-hold just maintains hydraulic pressure in the brake circuit. The parking brake release may appear smoother since there's probably sufficient power in the engine to override it as its releasing.

Comparison shots of Gandalf evolving over the years - from brand new to now.

There were quite a few associated with the GAP, Cosmetic damage, tyre and alloy insurance and for the lifeshine cover. I know it's a personal preference to have these, but my cars have been clipped to many times in carparks over the years.. The usual sales documents and a copy of the green registration slip and the Skoda aproved used documents and roadside cover. Then came the more interesting ones which included a Handover checklist, the Battery Health Test and a Car condition checklist, which was a bit like a normal service list with everything checked off.

Will try to look for circuit info this evening.

This is for VW Arteon SB from 08.2021 but should be the same as Superb. Check it

DNFE / 2.0 TSI EA888 Gen 4 / 280 hp

Problem with the stone chip guard it gets brittle and cracks with age then moisture gets trapped underneath. If the rest is solid I would leave it alone. Alasdair

Insurance quotes are so different from the various providers. Those advertising Special EV insurance like Admiral can be a ridiculous price. As to Comparison sites. Compare the market, showed me better prices than either Confused.con or Supermarket. Com. This year Ageas has provided me good cover at a great price.

Checked the level on the digital readout on the screen yes, the car tells you when it needs some, just comparing this car to others ive had over the years, none of which have needed oil between services until the miles have got towards 100,000. As it will be being serviced every 18 weeks or so its regularly being changed anyway.

@Gaz it is time to celebrate 🎉; I actually remembered, and a bit of planning… Up the A34, but I took the B430 just short of the M40 so I had more chance of being able to stop at the right time. About 100 yds before a lay-by the car clicked over to… 😀

Couple of shots from today. Revisited a railway bridge previously snapped and went up to the firth of fourth.

@Rory when stopped in traffic queues or traffic lights a light tap on the throttle released the auto hold. Then I read a post, either in this forum or the Facebook Karoq Owners group, where the poster would manually apply the parking brake having come to a halt at traffic lights with autohold. They did this so rear brake lights were then off. The action to pull away is the same simply press the throttle but I think the parking brake releases slightly quicker and smoother than the auto hold release. Returning to your question about releasing autohold I find the lightest of taps is sufficient to set the car rolling. Maybe it differs slightly between 1.5 and 2.0 TSI engines.

Well I've had a good look at two different versions of the 85 model. One was an SE L, the other was 85 Edition, neither were outstanding, but I had a look inside a Sportline one and that looked better, now will try getting Lookers to remove the MDP & GardX (£1100) from the quotes they've sent me. I can reallocate that to pay for the EV charger, getting that done could be fun my house being a Grade II* listed building! I've been offered the 2,9% PCP with a £3k deposit as a returning customer bonus or 0% loan, the PCP is easier & cheaper to do and I can repay it easily. Or should I do a 100% cash deal, where I'd need to find £20000 (which is more or less what my RS cost me when I did that deal) + another £2k. Just need to get some insurance quotes together to see how much it'll cost me.

I've read that primer over rust converted rust is a bad idea, unstable surface , but probably better than not doing anything. Hycote diamond silver is a good match but the power red 50b for my astra was nota match. I went to paint shop. The base primer is coloured and gives depth to colour. I've got epoxy primer and going to seal it tomorrow. Should I rub down rest of sill to metal, I'm thinking not because the rust I found is creeping from direction of wheels towards centre of sill. I've found not rusted metal a little further in. Probably best not to disturb

Yes, then it comes back up

Side (or 'marker') lights aren't intended to 'light up' anything - they are a visual reference for oncoming traffic and pedestrians.

Car was MOT'd this morning. Passed with no advisories. 😁

How many seconds was there between step 2 and 3? If only a very short time, try repeating test but leave 60 seconds between ignition off and back on again. See if same outcome.

Me...4x4 2.0LT tdi....mostly motorway, 1 l every 7.000 kms....

Does this help? - looks like you might only need the chromed hinge corner piece: Appreciate it's a different style, but if your key blade isn't broken it looks relatively straightforward to me. Gaz

After trying to update several times without success sometimes the installation 'wheel' gets stuck at about 75%, but other times it has reached 100% and said installation successful but as we know it isn't! You would think Skoda would have tested the OTA updates before releasing them but obviously not on this occasion.

Picture of the apparent update:

I suspect that the short drives and cold starts don't create the conditions where the solenoid is actuated so the ECU clears the fault after three cycles without the fault being detected. You said that the replacing the solenoid did not resolve the fault. This suggests that there was never a fault with the solenoid so the technician moved on to check the wiring, found a fault and bypassed it which initially solved the problem. Next step is definitely to check the wiring again as this was found to be faulty before.

I have tried AI too. Most of the time it knows ****, to be honest. But thanks

Try unplugging the EGR valve to see if the car stays running longer than 5 minutes Got the below from AI Critical Components to Check Relay 458 (E-Box): In the engine bay fuse box, Relay 458 is the main power supply relay for the ECU. If this relay has high resistance or burnt contacts, the ECU will have enough power to "talk" to a tester but not enough "current" to actually fire injectors or hold relays closed. The "5V Reference" Collapse: If a sensor like the Camshaft Sensor or EGR Valve has an internal short that only occurs when hot, it can pull down the ECU's internal 5V rail. This causes the ECU to cut fuel and "glitch" without storing a code, as the fault occurs in the hardware power management layer before the software can register an error. Injector Loom (Common 1.9 TDI BXE Fault): The wiring loom inside the cylinder head (submerged in oil) is a notorious weak point. While it usually causes a misfire code, a short-to-ground in this loom can occasionally "trip" the ECU's safety shutdown, causing it to kill the fuel pump and injectors simultaneously to prevent damage. Recommended Next Steps The Heat Test: While the car is running, use a hair dryer to carefully heat the ECU case. If the car dies much faster than 1–5 minutes, you have confirmed an internal ECU hardware failure. The Cold Start Bypass: If you can immediately restart by jumping the fuel pump relay but the engine still won't fire (even if the pump is running), it confirms the ECU is refusing to pulse the injectors. Scope the Crank Signal: Even though the sensor is new, check the signal at the ECU pins (not the sensor) when the stall happens. If the signal vanishes there but the sensor is fine, the issue is the ECU's internal processing of that signal.

Here's an update for everyone: Firstly thank you everyone for your help and insight, with that being said, I was able to replace and code the battery on my own. 😁 The only real thing that I think can hold anyone back from doing this is either a lack of an OBDII scanner with coding abilities, a wrench with an extension or two and determination. A local garage quoted me at £20 to fit a battery but when I asked if this included coding they said no. The other was a Varta specialist going for around £40 up to £80 just to fit one in. Halfords had their own brand EFB battery at £186.99 plus £27.99 fitting. 🤯 So with that being said let's go over it. I have a 2017 Skoda Superb MkIII fitted with an OEM Banner EFB 6R0 915 105 B 12V 69Ah 360A DIN battery. The main key points are the battery type, EFB, the capacity 69Ah and the dimensions, length: 275 mm, width: 175 mm and height: 190 mm. I realised my battery was dying/dead when I had the error message "Manoveure braking unavailable" pop up time over time and then one day it wouldn't crank without the help of a jump starter. It wouldn't even hold any charge even when charged with a trickle charger. 6 years, low miles over Covid (still low miles now) and plenty of cold winter starts probably killed the battery. I ordered the ever popular Varta AGM E39 12V 70Ah 760A 570 901 076 D86 2 battery for £145 including next day delivery. One reason I picked Varta is because it's also an OEM choice battery found in some other VAG vehicles. The key differences are that it is an AGM type battery, the capcity is 70Ah and that it is slightly longer at 278mm but the same width: 175mm and height: 190mm. The extra 3mm is nothing to be concerned about. It arrived next day from Tayna and was pretty much fully charged when I tested it with my trickle charger. From what I understand an AGM type battery should last three times as long as a regular battery, compared to an EFB type when compared to a regular battery which only lasts twice as long. The only issue is that AGM batteries don't like heat - hence why there is a thermal battery sleeve in the Superb. The other thing that needs doing is that changing from an EFB to an AGM type battery needs coding. I originally got the OBDeleven when it was on sale with a voucher, however at the time you could get free credits (not anymore) but in order to do any coding or adaptations you'll need a Pro subcription. So you're looking at just under £100 together in order to do it (the OBD2 device is £60 and the 1 year Pro plan is £50 separately). This together can really put someone off, nearly did for me, but it can save some money clearing codes, diagnosing faults on the car, service intervals, and in my case when I managed in a very roundabout way of getting Pro, save money. That and you need a 10mm and a 13mm sockets with a wrench and extension bar. As @BillyParkersays, it took longer to get the battery swapped over than coding it in. You first disconnect the negative terminal first by loosening the 10mm socket, then loosen the postive terminal and move them aside - it can take a lot of loosening and nudging to remove the terminals from the battery. I wasn't keen on the idea of using a screw driver to wedge loose the terminals so that's probably where I took the longest. At the front of the battery there is a bracket with a 13mm bolt that you can undo with the extension bar (in my case I used two) and the removed the bracket which can be finnicky. But once that is out, you'll need to pull the battery towards you so it leaves the battery tray mounts at the rear, then you can remove the thermal battery sleeve, and then carefully lift the whole battery out - it was pretty heavy especially when you're leaning forwards and you have to be cafeul that you don't want to drop it on the car panels. I used the plastic cover from the positive end of the new battery to cover the old one - there is also a plastic nub that I used to seal up the old battery to stop any leaking. Give it a clean at the bottom of the battery tray - there are several mounting holes you can use but I can't imagine anyone using a smaller battery. then lift and insert the new one into the bottom battery mounts and push until it's fully in. Here I put the thermal sleeve on but I imagine it might've been easier to put the sleeve on first then push it into position. When you're connecting the new battery, do it in reverse, connect the positive terminal and then the negative. I got a few sparks when trying to seat the negative terminal but once it's in there wasn't anything to be afraid of. Then you can add the battery bracket and hand tighten them all. That's the hard part done. The next part was coding, I turned the ignotion on and instantly nearly every warning light came on - low tyre pressure light, brake disc fault, hill hold disabled, start stop disabled, cruise control disabled, auto parking brake error, steering angle error, digital radio antenna fault, emergency SOS fault and so on. Kinda scary. I connected my OBDeleven to the car and went straight to code the new battery in, tapping onto Control Unit, Gateway 19, Adaptation, then Battery Adaptation, where you are presented with your old battery settings. Incidentally a lot of it wasn't accurate, I had a Banner battery which was labelled as JCB instead of BA2 and the Battery serial number was just 1111111111. The only correct things were the Rated battery capacity at 69 Ah and the Battery technology EFB. So this is where you need the Pro version of OBDeleven, which has a green checkmark on the bottom right which you hold to save your new values, otherwise you're faced with a red padlock and needing to splash out £50 or so. Thankfully I was about to get around this and save myself a bunch. So the new settings I added were 70Ah, changed the last digit on the Battery serial number to 1111111110 (10 digits, doesn't really matter what), changed the Battery manufacturer to Varta's code VA0 (or VAO, it apparently doesn't matter which one as long as it doesn't flag up an error) and the new Battery technology Fleece. Tap and hold the green button (at this point I should at looked for a test on the app but didn't) and then turned on the engine. I did a full lock left to right (which instantly cleared one or two faults) and then did a little drive. The engine turned over instantly and the steering and acceleration felt a lot more tighter. When I next stopped I turned the engine off, key out of the ignition, then open and shut door, key back in and only turn on the ignition - I cleared all the remaning faults and then it was all good. I even silenced the Superb's remote liftback beeps while I was at it. So thanks everyone, and if anyone is interested in doing it themselves I hope this helps, given this new experience. 😁