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Got the blind spot project to 95% complete this afternoon. All wires run in and loomed up to protect them. Boot trim came out to run cables and all power and indicator lights connected up and all working well. Not the most elegant finish just yet but this is proof of concept stage. Final bits to finish this bit is to tap in to the rear light feeds so the BSD indicators flash at you if you are indicating whilst something is in your blind spot. Just waiting on some posi taps to come for the connection points. Then if I’m happy with how it operates , next step is some experiments with the multimeter to check how the standard LEDs operate and then see if they will run the OEM BSD indicator LEDs. If they do then wires will be run in to the doors and OEM LEDs installed in the mirror housings so that it looks standard.

So I've had the car four weeks now. Replaced the leather sides of the DSG knob as they were worn with some Ali Express specials. Sorry no photos but they fitted fine. Also replaced the door puddle lights with some LED units, bit chavy but hey-ho. Had to take the passenger door card off as someone had previously been there before and the cable was way too short. Sorted now though.

I miss the knowledge we used to get from ApertureS - such a shame he moved on…..?

There's a setting via the infotainment system which needs to be switched to on. Our car came with it switched off and our salesman told us we didn't have it! Had I not discovered the setting we'd have assumed it wasn't there.

I have virtual pedal on my Karoq - if can take a while to discover the exact movements needed. Firstly you must have the key on you, stand close to the bumper wave your foot underneath and step quickly back. You must step far enough back and if has to a smooth continuous movement with the foot wave under the bumper. It’s a knack, I did succeed a few times. It’s most useful when carrying things with both hands - which is precisely the time it’s hardest to do - standing on one leg stepping back quickly without over balancing dur to the extra weight of what’s being carried.

For the Superb MK2 2.0TDI 170HP FWD with standard ride height, Kilen list 1K0511115DF rear springs. Perhaps try the equivalent increased ride height rear springs, ie. 1K0511115CR. 1K0511115CR is about 20mm longer than 1K0511115DF...as you might expect from an increased ride height spring. To find out what rear springs the car left the factory with, you can use the website "skoda parts com" and put the car in the online garage using its VIN number. Then when the rear springs are searched for, only the correct ones are shown. Sachs 994336 is sold to replace 1K0511115CR (other choices are available) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/396315502720

Lovely light just before sunset this evening And a clear sky now

yes

Not a chance ... 😁 That hat came in and out of the car with her 🙃

Thanks for the help - it’s much appreciated. I took another look this morning and it looks like there is a wobble in the disc - so going to try changing the hub to see if that might solve it 🤞 Thanks again

@Graham Butcher what do you think that makes that video anything to do with servicing? It is a design, manufacturing or material fault. Servicing of an EV motor is not going to involve opening a motor like that. There is servicing of parts as with an ICE vehicle. But tell me more than cam belts or changing water pumps has you into an engine in 100,000 km these days?

Everyone who is seeing this problem should report it to the DVSA https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-recalls-and-faults/report-a-serious-safety-defect That way , there's at least a chance that VAG will be forced to admit there's a problem

Tell them that knock sensors and the ECU hardware and software that interacts with them react in fractions of a second, so their argument is utter tosh.

I use https://tiresize.com/comparison/ if you go for 205/45 at 60mph its actually 62mph and 205/50 its actually 64mph according to their site. As previously said as long as all tyres are the same size ABS etc wont be affected. Had 225/40/18 on a people carrier but the weight rating was too low so went for 225/45/18 and didnt really notice. On it the larger size just cleared the bottom of front strut. Make sure you have enough room. Alasdair

From reading that reply…. I think you completely missed the point I was making, through use of sarcasm.

Extra radiators will likely be for oil or aftercooler.

If you want more sidewall height, changing to smaller diameter rims such as 14" or 15" would be a better choice than oversize 17" such as 205/45R17. 14" rims clear the 256x22mm front brake discs, whereas 15" rims clear the 288x25mm front brake discs. 288x25mm front brake discs are the biggest fitted to the Fabia MK2 as standard, so 15" rims can be fitted to all models...but for 14" rims you need to make sure that the front brake discs aren't bigger than 256x22mm, otherwise the 14" rims won't clear the front brake calipers. You might find that the Fabia MK2 has the 288x25mm front brake discs only with engines that have at least 105HP, but check the car's build codes to be sure in case there are exceptions. Outside diameter of tyre 185/65R14 596.1mm (non-standard tyre size on Fabia MK2, but fitted to some Roomsters) 195/55R15 595.5mm 205/45R16 590.9mm 205/40R17 595.8mm

You know you’re right.. totally unrealistic demonstration. It reminds me of the time I once watched a demonstration by the fire fighters of dealing with the aftermath of an RTA , and when the demo started, the FF’s already had the scene cordoned off, a hydrant located, their gear on, and the all the hydraulic gear out of the trucks and ready to go, which also obviously meant the appliances and ambulance had already arrived at the scene.. Even the people trapped in the vehicles being rescued already had their safety specs on.. so it took them mere moments to have the lid cut off the focus and the doors wedged open on the upside down vectors. totally unrealistic compared against a real crash.

The OEM part number for the lower wishbone on the Superb MK2, Octavia MK2, and Yeti is 1K0505311AB. This applies to all models, so includes both FWD and 4x4. What make and model of lower wishbone did the garage fit? What make and model of rear spring did the garage fit? "skoda parts com" list both Lemforder and SKF as two alternatives to the genuine Skoda part for the lower wishbone with OEM part number 1K0505311AB https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k0505311ab-lower-rear-axle-arm-skf-52574.html

Hmm, so BEV's it seems, should have some regular servicing even though the manufacturers don't seem to think so.

Thanks. Once I actually get the car I'll try and remember to update you all.

Download the MySkoda app & then download the Digital Certificate. Inspect > Car Details > scroll to bottom. Look for Virtual Pedal. My March 25 built SEL Edition has it & it mostly works. But like most tech, it somehow knows when you need it most & malfunctions then! The infotainment setting to enable is vaguely called Easy Open, under Vehicle > Settings > Opening & Closing..

@ddan1275 The fact that only the spring on one side was replaced already tells the story: The "garage" doesn't understand his job. Suspension parts like springs (and shock absorbers etc) should always be replaced on both sides! The fact that the car is now lower than it should be is another indicator for the poor competence of your "garage". Most likely the new springs are not stiff enough for your Superb. This also leads you to the solution: Go to a proper garage and have them fix your car with quality parts with the correct specifications. You don't have to go OEM, after-market parts from A-grade suppliers (Sachs, ZF etc) are also OK. About you wanting to measure free spring length: That length says absolutely nothing about the spring stiffness, so there is no use in measuring it. In this case your Skoda dealer is right: Just use a set of springs from a well-known brand with the correct color code, and your ride height will be restored. See the attached Word document (sorry, it's in Dutch, but the picture should be clear). The dimension "a" should be 394 ± 10 mm for standard suspension 379 ± 10 mm for sport suspension 414 ± 10 mm for rough road suspension Voorgeschreven waarden achteras.doc

If the autospark is 100% sure wiring is good then you may as well fit two recon injectors. If you dont then I reckon you will have problems selling it or get a lot less than its worth. Hopefully it will cure it and if your still worried about reliability it will be easier to get rid of. Not sure where the best place to get recon injectors from but someone on here may know. Alasdair

# ECE 2026.06 29.2 Gb version":{"major":1167955,"minor":26030,"build":1},...,"catalog_version":52 261E0 Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P177_EU_202630_Offline_Update.zip Files inside: 2026.05.27 Downloadable: 2026.08.19 Published: 2026.--.-- # ROW 2026.06 - - - Previous threads: -> 2026.02 -> 2025.02-06 -> 2024.06

Today I bought a 2016 1.4TDi DSG Spaceback SE. With 67,000 miles, MOT till Jan 27. Private seller. Previous owner for the last 5 years was an elderly lady. We agreed on a price of £3700 for it. One downside is that has 4 x assorted cheapo 215/45 R16 tyres on it. With the bigger downside being that they all have plenty of tread left. 🙄 It has parking damage to the rear bumper and front bumper. It's the sort of thing where I'll probably leave it as it is, as it's not going to rust and it doesn't look too tragically bad. The driver's side sun visor holder, the grey plastic swivel mount thing, next to the A pillar in the roof is cracked, and the sun visor fell off when I moved it to the side window position. It looks like it's an easy enough item to replace with a trim tool and a small flat bladed screwdriver. I have a feeling I might have to buy a whole sun visor assembly, instead of just the small plastic bit that clips into the roof? The sun visor works OK if you just fold it down for windscreen shading. The car drives fine. Feels and sounds nice and tight and unworn. As it should be on 67k miles. The driver's seat is pants. You can tell by looking at it that it's not shaped like a human body is shaped. And it's uncomfortable for any journey lasting longer than 30 minutes. I'm on the look-out for a pair of used SE Sport front seats. Or maybe the upper spec seats from a Toledo. I'm mildly disappointed with the MPG from my first 60 miles of ownership. It seems to be about on a par with my 2016 Superb Greenline Estate. Which is probably more down to how amazing the Superb Greenline is, than any failings in the Spaceback 1.4 TDi. I intend getting my local VAG specialist to do a cambelt and water pump change, sooner rather than later. And from there will do my own oil changes every 8,000 miles.

Good choice as you can't beat an old school PD engine as with annual oil changes they run forever, I got rid of my PD140 at 200k and it was still running strong.

Try Kilen springs as i had good experience with them as you need ones specific to an estate as it sounds like you have either sport springs or saloon springs causing it to be too low.

@Carlston might be able top assist with specs.

@lol-lol I fear people will be lulled into a false sense of security as the battery fire problem suddenly seems not to be such a problem. This system of a special EV fire blanket is only applicable in ideal conditions. This is not me fearmongering; I'm simply explaining real-life facts. You need to engage the old grey matter and understand that the manufacturers doing that demo had full control over the parameters; in real life, that is never going to happen like that. Observations: 1. The whole thing was staged: location open air meaning toxic fumes are easier to disperse, flat terrain, concrete pad (non-combustible), no obstructions, cars, buildings etc, no access problem. 2. Nissan Leaf has one of the smallest batteries fitted to EVs; the battery was also highly likely to be in a very low SOC, meaning less energy to burn off. 3. Firefighters already there and fully kitted out in their BAs. In a real situation, they might have to drive miles from the fire station to the car, which could be at an event in the countryside alongside other parked cars or in an RTA on a motorway, etc. Firefighters may therefore take a considerable time to arrive at the scene. Then when they get there, they will have to assess what type of incident they are faced with, get their BAs on, get an EV fire blanket from the appliance (assuming they have one), unpack it and position it ready for deployment. Run the hoses out and if possible, locate a hydrant to ensure they have plenty of water. 4. The fire blanket was already there, just waiting to be deployed, which is never going to be true in a real situation. 5. Because of the size of the battery and because it may have been in low SOC, it had probably already burnt off the oxidising agents by the time the blanket was deployed, with no more jets of flames being emitted sideways, flames going straight up (as a normal car fire). At that point, it was likely a normal car fire with all the plastics, carpets, seats, wiring, etc. then burning, the same as any ICE car. 6. The only time an EV presents a different hazard is with the battery; if it is actually off-gassing, it is both extremely dangerous if inhaled and can kill in seconds. If it settles on skin, then it is deadly and requires urgent hospitalisation and special treatment. It is highly explosive; the battery produces its own oxygen, so putting a fire blanket over the car does not stop it burning until the battery electrolyte has been burnt out, at which point the oxygen has been consumed, and the fire stops. Removing the blanket allows oxygen in, and the fire starts again as a normal car fire. Water will then finish the job, as shown in the demo. Had they left the blanket on long enough, the overall temperature would have dropped to almost the same as the ambient temperature, and water might not have been required. The EV fire blanket cannot be used in a car park because by the time the firefighters arrive, the car would be fully engulfed, as would the other cars in the surrounding parking bays, so there is no way a fire blanket could be used as it would not be possible to approach the fire as it would be too large for a blanket anyway. EV cars being transported by road on a car carrier – again, a blanket is useless; even if able to get one over the car, the bottom would be open and oxygen has free access. EV cars on a car ship are again packed in tightly with other cars even closer than they would be in a car park. They are also strapped down to prevent movement in rough seas, so a blanket (assuming one could be dropped down from the ceiling onto the car) would NOT be able to form a sealed "chamber" to contain the fire and stop it spreading to the surrounding cars because of the straps and the shackles holding it down will create pathways for air to enter and flames/gas to escape. As the scientists have already explained many times, if you can use a fire blanket, there is a high risk that removing it will cause a deflagration and engulf the firefighters in flames. So to make it clear, an EV car fire of any type (hybrid or BEV) is the same as any ICE car until the traction battery decides to combust, and that is when things turn really nasty and quickly. This means that firefighters will now have to identify the type of car they are dealing with and then take the appropriate steps to tackle it.

Today I started the blind spot detection project. Trying out a basic AliExpress kit for £50 rather than OEM for £500. Bumper is a pain to remove thanks to two awkwardly angled torx screws under the wheel arch which requires the car jacked up to access. First problem after that was that the OEM radar brackets I bought from eBay to make mounting the radars easier didn’t fit. Turns out I had bought hatchback ones rather than estate so they didn’t fit! A bit of fettling and the brackets that came with the kit were made to fit, mounted onto one of the studs that holds the plastic trim on. All set to the correct angle. Cables routed into the car through a couple of grommets. Bumper back on and that’s the first step done.

UPDATE: took off drivers side wheel and arch liner. Saw the latch cable in the gap behind the headlight. Fished it out and gave it a good yank and it popped the bonnet/hood. The junction box of cables had come apart. Closed it in place and it seems to be working now.

For those who are interested, I made the modification and it didn't costs that much and it was made at the dealer, so no warranty issues. The investment was much smaller than the difference between VRS and Sportline, as some colleagues suggested. Much much smaller....You don't need to change the bumper. When I ordered my Kodiaq I asked for offers for both models and the price difference was more than 6-7k for the same configuration, all options checked. I had Octavia RS before, 310hp, but I am very happy with the Kodiaq as it is - 204hp, enough for me, I'm getting old... Only for those interested, for the rest, just skip the post. But I thought there are others like me, at least to let them know it's possible. (made also the exhaust pipe to the exhaust tip). Also the virtual pedal works perfect.

Pay attention that your wife doesn't imagine there's a woman sleeping on the back seats of your car, once doors are closed! 🤣

The feature you refer to is known as Headlamp Assist. To use the feature, the light switch (turn knob) must first be in the “Auto” position. Then, each time you switch on the ignition, you need to push the headlamp stalk forwards until you feel resistance (about half the full travel), then let it return to rest position. You will notice the lights indicator at the bottom of the dashboard display shows a white dipped headlamp symbol with “A” in the centre of the symbol. Unfortunately, the car doesn’t remember this, and you have to repeat this second step involving the headlamp stalk each time the ignition is switched on.

Just for laughs, the "horned headrest" can double as an impromptu hat-holder 😄

A recall is what is required. A very obvious manufacturing fault. Like with VW Group fuel rail bolts. These are not checked at dealership servicing. Safety critical but VW do not seem to think so, or do the DVSA. A warranty longer than 3 years is what a EQC owner needs, or and BEV owner keeping them out of the manufacturers warranty. But in other countries there might be court actions or the Lemon Law.

@Evolution13 the thought behind the post is that just maybe, some of these problems would be prevented if the cars were sent for servicing at regular intervals. Surely cooling of the battery and motor is one of the critical aspects on a EV. There must be some evidence in the cooling system etc of issues like that in the video.

I have noticed sometimes when I press the throttle I get a pause then a jerk which made me wonder if the box is OK. Car only covered 11000 miles now. I have not seen D7 in the display; D6 at most yet the spec says the car has 7 speed box. Is that because we haven't driven it fast enough yet? :-)