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Lol at you and home balcony solar. Let's see how long or cold this winter gets. Tough on those with oil heating systems or bottled gas. Tough on those with really not enough to get by on while the haves are doing along very nicely.

Hi All I'll be picking up a 2014 Yeti 2ltr diesel next week, current owner MOTd the car today. Failed on what I'm guessing is front drop links, but they are sorting on Tuesday. The Yeti seems practical for my needs, family, space and the ability to tow our caravan. I've been around various forums for many years (Renault, Ford etc but never Skoda). I used to do all my own servicing, repairs etc but my will is reducing the older I get. Always found the forums to be a great source of info and help. Just hope over time I'm able to contribute something useful !

If it's not the wire of death, I think it must be the ignition switch.

https://www.reuters.com/legal/litigation/volkswagen-recalls-4-million-cars-handelsblatt-reports-2026-09-25/ Anyone seen any details on Skoda vehicles participation in this safety recall? From: https://www.focus.de/auto/ratgeber/auch-skoda-modelle-offenbar-von-lenkungs-rueckruf-betroffen_7a5080c8-2ee3-4841-bc6c-afddd4de4064.html (translated by Google): "A Skoda spokesperson told FOCUS online: “Internal quality checks have revealed that certain vehicles in some Škoda model series (Octavia, Superb, Kodiaq, Karoq) may have a deviation from the standard in the steering bolts.” The affected production period is week 11/2015 to week 8/2026. In Germany, this affects 370,879 vehicles." (As of now, neither the Skoda Group nor Skoda Spain-specific recall websites match my VIN, an April 2020-manufactured last of the MkIII Facelift Scout).

I have had 3 different crossclimates on different vehicles, originals then + and SUV on my Shogun. The SUV,s were ****e on snow and that was coming down from 285,s to 265,s. Different snows. Being a Location location location thing.

... The Cross Climates are good in the snow. I've had them on 5 cars. Will see how the Vredesteins are on my 4x4 Yeti.😀

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/184963-rimfest Couple of hours reading right there if you look.

@Coral-C . Yes, the whole experience is no different than a UK supplier like Black Circles, but cheaper. Credit card, GBP, no delivery charges (unsure about Highlands but Scottish Borders is free delivery) and about a week lead time. The choice, as you would expect, is huge. Note that where the listing shows two identical tyres but one includes a DOT in the title, the rubber is for an older year of manufacture and therefore the discounted price. Some aren't bothered if the tyre is older but has been stored correctly if they are saving a few pennies. I buy the fresh rubber if possible because tyres are our only contact points with the road! A well worn cliche but so true. As for the slow loss of pressure, I had a similar experience with our SLC200 and Michelin Cross Climate 2. Drove me insane. The local Volvo dealer who used to do my tyre swaps couldn't identify it and so tried to re-seat it on the rim. Nope! The KwikFit garage, once they had picked themselves up off the floor at seeing a pampered SLC200 pull in (no joking, they said that they only ever see battered runabouts as a general rule), told me that the edges of the rims needed refinishing because this is where the air was escaping. Nope! In the end, a local tyre shop with an excellent reputation (Ostles in Galashiels) examined the wheel and..... who'd have thought it..... a defective valve. £10. Why oh why didn't the Volvo dealer or KwikFit start with that? Anyway, whichever tyre you choose I wish you well. I think we can safely say that neither you nor I will be choosing some brand from China or India, not yet anyway! Speaking of which, Pirelli now have a Chinese company as their major shareholder. Just saying 😉. Best wishes.

Hi Warrior, the cable in use is 3 cores of 6mm and 2 cores of 0.5mm for the signals.

That's how all normal brake fluid changes are done. Yes the fluid does mix a bit and that little bit of un-refreshed fluid doesn't matter. The only time you need to do an ABS bleed is when you have got air in the ABS. I did because I let my reservoir run dry doing a brake bleed and sucked air into the system. Only realising when air splattered out the bleed screw and not fluid, completely my fault, and also when you fit a new ABS unit because the replacement unit would have air in it when installed. I always use a pressure bleeder when doing my brakes.

Not an extension cable. A commercial EV charging cable from my type 2 home charger. 12.5Metres long.

If you have a 280bhp you have 340mm vented front discs, 310mm rear vented discs. Every other model, be it petrol, diesel, FWD or AWD will have 312mm vented front discs, 300m sold rear discs. Most motor factors are hit and miss despite claiming to confirm the make/model/trim you have; so make sure you check the size is correct. BTW, if you're just going to for plain discs, I highly recommend the ATE Ceramic pads as they are very low dust. I've read they leave a film on the disc and the pad then grips that rather than friction on the surface of the disc. No idea if that's true but the results spoke for themselves with me.

A 2014 will have MIB1 systems, so: if you have Canton you'll need a new Canton amp if you want to use CarPlay or Android Auto you'll need a new USB In any case it won't be plug and play, coding will be required to match the new MIB2.5 to the car configuration.

Yes its that but I think there's a spot weld in the mix too. It may well be in response to the ARB bushes originally being a classic source of creaking in the pre-FL versions. I wonder if putting it all together stops any chance of moving causing noise. H&R just haven't caught up with the design change. I did note that some places like Hardrace or Whiteline include new clamps so I'll mull over the idea of buying replacement clamps and fitting it on an Alu subframe next year some time when finances have recovered a little...

Briskoda DQ 200 servicing. Or Briskoda DQ 200 oil changes. In any search engine. Ignore Fabia MK2 threads as obviously pre 2015 issues. Service campaigns.

...but it does look as if the shells are clamped-together with some type of rivet nut.

Nipped up all the lines, lobbed some fluid in the top and gave it a squeeze. Pedal feels ****ty so more is needed, but if you press the pedal you can't move the drums and if you let off the pedal you can so that's SOME kind of win.

GPS is good, everything is working mate

@Coral-C We live in the Scottish Borders but we take our Superb to the Austrian Tyrol for skiing each year - two good reasons for the winter tyre swap out. I researched the most appropriate tyre for our use, which included choosing a tyre which wasn't truly performance biased because we prefer a comfortable ride and only do the 'pedal to the metal' thing for a short overtaking burst or when we are rarely late for something while travelling along the twisty Scottish country roads. ChatGPT recommended the Goodyear Ultragrip 3 and, as you can see, this is what we have bought. I always research any AI recommendations independently myself when it concerns anything of significance or importance - my own research confirmed that these are award-winning tyres and come highly recommended. However, they will not be mounted until late-November which means I cannot give you feedback yet. Nonetheless, tyres are tyres and if they are this highly reviewed by ADAS etc. then my experience over the years is that they will be good on the white stuff. I was tempted by the Michelin tyre (I cannot remember the name) because they claim to have developed a tread block which reveals fresh sipes as the tyre wears down. You will know that winter tyres are hopeless once the tread depth falls below 4mm - both straight line grip / braking and lateral cornering. Michelin is my usual 'go-to' brand and has served me well. But these tyres haven't been around long enough for this long-term claim to have been independently tested and, in Austria at least, the legal requirement for winter tyres is that they must have more than 4mm tread depth anyway. So I went with the Goodyear Ultragrip 3 in the end. I sourced them from MyTyres, the trading name of Delticom, a huge German tyre supplier that ships across the EU and UK. They were offering the best price, delivery was at no extra cost and they arrived within the week via Andy, our DPD delivery guy. DPD are the best in our area. I haven't checked the dot code for year of manufacture but will do so later today when I pop into our garage where they are currently stored. Our Superb is the 265PS TSI 4x4, like yours. However, we have the 17" rims for the winter tyres so that we can mount snow chains if needed. The 18" and 19" rims, with their wider tyres, have insufficient clearance to accept the chain links without fouling some of the running gear. Hope this helps. I prefer running dedicated winter tyres in colder weather because the standard UK tyre, effectively a summer tyre as the Northern Europeans would classify it, stiffens up and is less effective at braking below 7deg. Most winters one could get away with it here in the Borders but, when it does snow, there is no comparison between the winter and summer rubber. 4x4 is hopeless without the right tyres and keeps us mobile and safe when others are completely stuck and have abandoned their vehicles. Best wishes

AGM are better choice, but those batteries dont like hot climate. for EFB it dont matter, in UK probably ok. i was looking to replace my 2yo EFB Exide with AGM exide, not this year, maybe next. and AGM is almost same price as EFB. interesting. why is that? 10€ difference. https://www.pricerunner.com/pl/528-3205194914/Batteries-Chargers/Exide-EK620-Compare-Prices https://www.pricerunner.com/pl/528-4782518/Batteries-Chargers/Exide-EL604-Compare-Prices

Stupid question but where's the weld as it doesn't appear visible from the photos?

Have you tried pressure bleeding it yet. Might be worth a try. If its air stuck in the ABS then you could either bleed with vcds or did read if you dont have vcds etc a few sharp brakes on gravel so ABS works can force air into regular brake lines so you can then rebleed to clear. Alasdair

6 hours or even 7 hours cheap tariff and maybe 15 kWh. / 60 miles if lucky added. But then you might use standard tariff and be 35 pence rather than the latest 10 pence offerings. New Motability choices of EV,s and Ice vehicles greatly reduced if paying £1,000 or less advanced payments. A few bigger Chinese cars on offer. And 5 UK manufactured cars. MINI Cooper, Nissan Juke or Quasqai, Toyota Corolla or a Peugeot e-Rifter. £4,399 advance payment....

And of course, a granny cable also the restricts by a large margin, the speed of charging, further reducing the usefulness of home charging,furthering the tiers of EV ownership.

Thanks for your reply. The Car is a 1.0 TSi 95CH. I would anticipate doing around 12K km's per year. Mainly gentle driving around the villages, no real traffic issues here. Perhaps 2 or 3 motorway journeys a year. I bought the car last February as a 15 month old vehicle with just 120 km's on it. It was serviced by the dealer before it was delivered to me. I have now done 8.000km's but of course the car is now 2 years old so I decided to put it in to Skoda for an oil and oil filter change service plus they check a few other things as I understand it. When I got to the Skoda dealer they looked at the car "computer" and it was saying next service due in 21000 km's or 340 days, he then said that nothing needed doing now. Anyway, I did have them do the oil change etc and now the car reads that next service is due in 30,000km's or 740 days. That just seems crazy to me, so, do I just follow what the car is telling me? It would then be around 4 years old and never had a full service! I'm tempted to just ignore this and go with my gut feeling? I'd rather it was "over serviced".

I use these on ours, very good all round even cold and wet or hot wet and on some snow. Still great in hot dry etc etc All round very good. https://www.camskill.co.uk/m138b8684s7991p207137/Maxxis_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Maxxis_Premitra_All_Season_AP3_195_50_R15_86V_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_D_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB/RS_GB

I bought them from Eurocarparts (UK) but you can search the Brembo website based on your exact car - mine is 190 TDI FWD Estate. I got the Prime model. https://www.bremboparts.com/europe/en/catalogue/skoda-superb-iii-estate-3v5-2-0-tdi/000115168-1

Hi yes I had the issue, I changed all 4 disks and pads with brembos now it’s all ok

Gridserve are great when great. But seeing as some report not getting the speeds then surely only some are great. Everything when working as they should be are great and when not crap. IME. I have experiences that are great and also ones that are crap. Stirling castle view park and ride. 1 50 kW out of service, 2 giving 50 kW, and the one I was on giving 26 kW. But only wanted the £2 min amount so 10 minutes and £2.08 worth.

There are 5 high speed dual charging station at a small retail park around the corner to us, they worked for approx. 2 days after opening before being covered over as "unavailable", 5 weeks on the covers slashed and leads had been cut off, been like that now for 6 months. It's no wonder me getting an EV is receding in my mind. I believe the infrastructure supplying the retail units was underrated for the chargers in the first place, excellent planning

I bought a couple of Morfit cushions. These have made the seats more bearable on long journeys. I've been surprised at how - almost all of the time - the low power of the 1.4 TDi engine has not been a problem. In general driving it's fast enough for me and my wife's driving style. The only time I've noticed a lack of performance, was when joining the A1 from Stamford, when putting the foot down produced unimpressive acceleration - when compared to our 2010 BMW 330D auto.

@tombee OEMs were cut off before the bend, and the new AMGs were welded on right there

With my weekend toy...

Well, been on here for over 4 years now, contributed some, and learnt a lot more. But time to say goodbye. But not to Briskoda, just this forum. I am getting a 2026 Skoda Karoq delivered tomorrow, so will be migrating over to that forum. Thanks for all advice given here, it's helped a lot.

Is it me or does that passenger side spring look wonky…?

Your 2022 Fabia should have been originally delivered with a fairly slim booklet-format Owner's Manual with an 'issue date' on the outside of its rear cover. The booklet Manual for my own 2024 UK-registered Fabia SE L car has the issue-date of 06.2023 on its rear cover and, when referring to the relevant online digital Manual, the 06.2023 reference allows me to choose the relevant file. For the Fabia, Skoda has used a 2-pronged approach for Owner's Manuals, with 'essential' advice being in the booklet and the same advice plus more complex information being in the digital Manual. When a particular subject is dealt with only in the digital Manual, this is stated in the booklet Manual. LANE ASSIST is covered in its entirety in the booklet Manual (Pages 108/109 in my car's booklet) and how to turn the steering-wheel vibrations ON/OFF is shown in the Settings section (Activating/deactivating the steering wheel vibrations). Turning the steering-wheel vibrations ON/OFF must be carried out using the car's infotainment display-screen's Lane Assist menu. This Skoda Fabia video is about Lane Assist https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoktYazaDso It shows a car that has an Amundsen display-screen (as fitted to my own car) where the Lane Assist menu looks like this A green tick in the Steering wheel vibration 'box' indicates that vibration has been turned ON. Unticking the box will turn steering-wheel vibration OFF and the chosen setting (green tick=ON, no tick=OFF) is then saved until that setting is deliberately altered. Turning OFF the vibrations will not turn OFF Lane Assist, that will still enable automatically each time the car's ignition is switched on. I turn OFF Lane Assist before driving my Fabia, but, when I occasionally forget to do this, I can't say I find the system's corrective operation particularly intrusive or 'strong'. The Owner's Manual says "The system is designed primarily for driving on the motorway", but on twisty rural roads It's just an irritation that I don't want. (And I definitely don't want additional xxxxxx steering-wheel vibrations!!!)

4wa is booked - couldn’t schedule doing the work and getting the alignment done straight after. Minimal miles so I’m not overly worried about it as it’s a known. But it’s whether there’s a healthy chance that the midalignment would also trigger any or all of these by throwing out ADAS is what I’m curious about. Or whether it’s perhaps a wheel speed sensor as well and it’s multiple causes. ACC doesn’t work, nor does auto main beam (crystal matrix). That with the lane assist and dynamic lighting I could believe is ADAS, but the tyre pressure indicator, ESP, Autohold and hill start assist definitely point to a wheel sensor. Rear traffic alert doesn’t really fit into any of those categories though.

Adaption does not not do anything physical to the DPF. A high ash load unit will always be near end of life. Perhaps more frequent regenerations needed if the active part of the DPF is too small?

I’ve started installing a classic subwoofer in my car and wanted to share how I routed the wiring: Power cable (VCC): I ran it along the left-side plastic trim, under the rear bench. To get into the engine bay, you need to remove the plastic cover near the hood release handle. Behind it, there’s a rubber grommet in the firewall that becomes easy to spot once you peel back a bit of the foam. That’s the perfect spot to pass the cable through. Ground (GND): In the trunk, on the left side, there’s a cover with an 8mm threaded bolt – a great grounding point. I also had to remove the battery to pull the power cable upwards. The battery is held down by a bracket; once that’s off, you can slide the battery forward to release it from its lock. To feed the wires more easily, I used a fish tape (the kind electricians use to pull wires through conduits). That saved me a lot of time and effort. Helpful video : https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=anaXbne7mRiMxD2K&v=BD1Lb-lvHWo&feature=youtu.be P.s

Project Blu is having some TLC today. We thought about looking at the disc brakes (they are fine, no attention needed) but decided to look behind the wheel arch liners and the sponge of doom. Good news is that on this 123000 mile car, it's really clean. Jet washed it all off and applied the Tetraseal. Just three more wheels to go.

Update time - albeit a small update Finally found the right hub covers for the alloys I purchased. I knew I needed new alloys from the start as (see pics above) they were totaled and at at least $250 (around 125ukp) a piece to repair and then the near $1000 (500ukp) for the tyres, the budget didn't quite stretch to cover all of that so I went hunting on Facebook and other local selling sites for alloys that would fit. Found some (the one's on the car atm) for $400 (200ukp) with Bridgestone Potenza RE003's on them that had around 6-7mm of tread on them so enough to pass the roadworthy inspection. I had no hub caps though. Not thinking it through I just went and ordered some cheap things from Aliexpress thinking they would fit and of course they were too small. Measured the gap and ordered some more - too big this time. So I gave up initially and then realised that these alloy's were never sold on a Skoda so went hunting for the right car and thanks to Google Lens I found it - Audi S3. Once I found the right part number I ordered some BUT they would have either an Audi or VW badge on them. Thought ah well, just get the Audi one's and get some stick on Skoda badges and see if they will cover them. Well, they did once I removed the Audi symbol from the hub cover. Don't look too bad I reckon

How i wonder when electricity generation from gas is down to about a third of the energy mix and falling rapidly. Even their role as peaker plants for the 1600 to 1900 peak is diminishing as more grid and home batteries are installed plus home / balcony solar. Add to that Hinkley and Sizewell the use of gas for main stream power generation in the uk has a short future. Like to see it held back for emergency use and ships.

Many EV owners who public charge, and have choice, avoid single and twin charge sites and head to ones with 4,6,8,12, 16, 32, 100 charger sites as much less chance of all the chargers being occupied or out of service. The Google software ware tells us how many chargers are available in real time and what their kwh price is. There are well over 120k public chargers now and aim is to have 300k within the next 5 years though my next EVs to replace the 5 and Scenic will gave more range further reducing my need to public charge. There are of course over 30M biuldings in the UK which one can use a 3 pin plug with which is what i do when visiting my brother. He is on Octopus COSY tariff as it is a new biuld with no gas supply. I charge up and give him over the odds so we both win. Electricity will be significantly cheaper from today due to the vat cut. I have charged a little on public chargers as well at home but also at the tens of thousands of destinations chargers, works ones, clients and hotels. There is a scheme which households can sell their electricity to other EV users who park on their drive for a bit. HMRC allow up to £1k pa of sals before registration and taxation is required. Co Charge, Zap-Home and Just Charge to name 3. I would like to acquire thd ability to 3 phase charge and it will be high on my next home attributes. My Scenic can charge at 22 KW AC 3 phase. Might need a Home battery to 3 phase machine, at least 11 KW which is where most cars are going as, like my 5, the more recent priority is to have the EV able to act as supply to the devices, V2L, or home ir sell vack to the Grid at a higher price than bought. Things moving fast but good to know I can go many hours or even days from batteries in the home or in the car.