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Having said all that I have 2 trouble codes for the 5F unit, dab antenna both open circuit. Apparently that failing can cause distortion on all audio sources. I have discinected the fakra connector to see if that resolves it bit srill the same, also possible break in door harness can also cause it, so hoping it's one of those that is causing it. Quick look and found a new one but for 75 quid for a tiny little box.

Compression test was good! 13bar in all 4 cylinders. Have put 4 new spark plugs on and just driven to the shops and back with no issues! So it looks like my bro was wrong and it doesn't need a new engine. Perhaps I was lucky and have got away with just a bit of surface damage. Cheers for the help

I believe that a supersession automatically implies compatibility, but I guess I could try to see which other vehicles use the newer part and see that their circuits don't mark up the signal line as 'LIN'. Remind me this evening!

I know that you've said that 5K0907659 supersedes 1K0907659 but is it definitely compatible? i.e. Do we know that the 5K0907659 part is definitely not LIN bus based? On the catcar.info, if I look at the diagram for the 2013 Yeti, it only lists the 1K0907659 part. However if I look at the 2014 year and onwards it lists 1K0907659 with 5K0907659 in brackets. I'm just surprised that so many sellers on eBay have the wrong part advertised and this makes me suspect that they are only partly wrong and it works for some years but not others.

If all the wheel bearings are smooth and no play (as said they can still make noise but feel ok) It might be the centre bearing in rear propshaft thats failing or propshaft coupling. Had one go on an old volvo 940 and made a droning sound varying with speed. Alasdair

Hi! Thanks for the answer. I left the part inside the gearbox. Impossible to get it out. On the links you sent me, they are out of stock 😢

It must be coming from somewhere. Check the join between engine and gearbox in case its the crank seal that gone and it getting blown backwards Alasdair

You lost that white teflon look Worm gear (cochlear atermonas) ? A mechanic may ''grab'' it with a special tool otherwise it will be shattered in pieces inside the gear box. Briskoda.net search 002409191B 002409191E Cost about 9 euro or 7,7 GBP

146 diesel hatch. Walsall. Am currently looking to sell/break this if anyone is interested?

Radiator Cover 6U0121283J ,differs from Radiator Support https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0121283j-radiator-cover-1-3mpi-china-3089.html https://www.naskodovku.cz/kryt-vodniho-chladice-vedeni-vzduchu-pro-skoda-felicia-facelift-6u0121283j--6u0-121-283-j/ @keywacat It's a very crucial part,it ''drives'' the incoming air on the radiator otherwise the incoming air will lost some amount inside the engine bay with no benefits.

Your description points to a wheel bearing which is worn. They can start to make a droning noise linked to road speed before they are worn enough to feel play or roughness when testing by hand with the wheel off the ground. The drag from the transmission on a 4 x 4 will make it hard to spin the wheel and feel for roughness. Sometimes the noise is louder when cornering, due to side thrust and changing load, but I had a rear bearing go and it didn't show this behaviour so its not an infallible test. You might be able to find a good diagnostic workshop who can put the car on a rolling road with a vibration sensor attached to each suspension assembly in turn, to pinpoint which bearing has failed. Alternatively you could carry on using the car until the noise has got loud enough to identify the culprit, it will gradually get louder as it wears more. I no longer work on "heavy" stuff like suspension and wheels, as I don't have impact drivers or the space to swing a long breaker bar.

I've tried listening to them, feeling them... Never been able to hear of feel anything, even on my front sensors which I know are all working correctly...

All my dashboard warning lights come on intermittently especially when on a long journey. Went into garage who cleared faults but couldn’t identify what caused them. Just back from a long drive and they came back on. Any ideas on what might be the cause so I can advise the garage were to look first thanks.

I've read many times that you can easily work out which one is faulty - by listening to them - that has never ever worked for me over a total of 6 VAG cars! VCDS does let you know which one has failed, as will a few other VAG compliant scan tools. So, has anyone successfully managed to find the faulty one by listening to them while they are operating? Second "detection" option is by feel, ie finger tip - again, doesn't work for me annoyingly!

Excellent thanks 👍🏻 Been living without the rear sensors for a while, but finally getting around to doing something about it!

I'd suggest getting a fixed type tow-ball, as the removeable type will almost certainly will not be able to allow any height adjustment. I've seen simple 'drop plates' that just bolt between tow-ball and bar that allow for height adjustment.

At a guess you have a 5 to 6 metre boat on a single-axle trailer? - your Octavia wagon will have no issues towing it apart from keeping a eye on transmission temperatures if you are doing long mountain climbs. Front-wheel drive can sometimes be an issue on steep launch ramps and it's a good idea to not get the rear of the vehicle anywhere near salt water! - I used to use a towbar extension pole to launch and recover my cruiser.

Hey mate Believe it or not, the ! One was actually the dodgy one!! First and only time infotainment has been accurate haha Here is a link to the sensor I purchased which is paint matched to my colour pretty perfectly: https://ebay.io/m/ZESlsj

Frequent DPF regens resulting from oil use issues will adversely affect your fuel consumption.

Awesome thanks. Maybe I'll take mine in to a local shop if it's potentially a quick job. One follow up question, how did you identify the dodgy sensor? Was it actually the one with the ! next to it? (I've learnt that it's not always wise to believe what the infotainment screen is telling me!) Thanks again 👍🏻

Hi Got a 2008 1.2 liter 3 cyliner BZG engine. Only 110000 km. Its leaking oil. The issue is that the engine is totally dry. Front, left, right and back. Can not find one drip of oil. However the linkarm (right ride of car) and about 1 meter rear is totally soaked and i notice about 1-2 dl oil gone on 100-200 km driving. It only comes out after driving so stop dripping once stop. I cant see any house, pipe etc above the linkarm. Again nothing on the backside of the engine. Tray, belt side etc. Attaching two photoes. one from below the link arm and you can see its wet and oil have sprayed rear on the chassie. ALso a bad photo on the back of the engine. No oil what so ever. Any ideas? Thanks guys

@JMSkoda94 what range are you getting on a full tank? I've noticed mine will only do ~350 from full tank to low fuel warning. Prior to this issue I was getting 430-450.

Its not bad if you have another car on the road so if it goes wrong you have time to fix it. At moment only got one on road so repairs are only if really required. Havent had time to fix the Seat which needs the least amount doing. New bearing and probably EGR cooler thats needing cleaned which is a pain to get to. Can use my sons Fabia if it goes pear shaped. Hope to get at some of the cars I have over winter once I make doors on the big shed I use for repairs. Hope swapping valve cures problem. Alasdair

Hi, I’ve recently started to hear a really loud squeal coming from the front of the car. First I thought it was the front discs as they had very deep grooves in so I assuming it was a stone. I changed them but it’s still happening. It only happens after 40/50mph and after I’ve been driving for around 5 mile at that speed. When I brake the squeal stops. Does anybody have any ideas what this could be ? d04cfd87-4479-456f-bfa9-f206d072e606.mov

What pin did you use from the headunit?