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Virtual Cockpit used Tarraco Retrofit Leon. Immo Change ans Miles About all in 30 min

With the dipstick removed there could be some oil come out normally same as oil filler cap. If its a spray or steady stream it could be a faulty PCV or as you said blow by caused by worn piston rings or it could have been overfilled. I would check oil level first to make sure its correct. From memory engine up to temp and then park on flat surface and leave for 5 mins then check level and top up if required. If its the PCV valve it can cause poor idling and also oil leaks/smokey exhaust if stuck. Piston rings I assume would cause smoke and excessive oil usage. Had an old fiat that pistons were shot and it used to randomly blow dipstick out if I revved it too high. Alasdair

Only with Take Out unit and Open

There is a reason there is an oil filler cap. It needs fitting. ? sorry i don’t understand, the oil cap was fitted, as it happens Ive ran the the engine with the oil cap just sitting over the oil filler and i think it maybe blow by or is it the car drives well ? i just wanted to know if anyone has experienced it thank you

I decided to go with dry bolts as didnt want to overtorque them as the threads in console were slightly worn. Used a bit of thread lock on tip of bolts to be on the safer side plus new genuine VAG bolts so should be ok. If I ever have to do it again I reckon I will replace Console brackets anyway or if feeling flush get a garage to do it. Was thinking of sealing open threaded end with a dab of silicone to stop salt etc getting in. Will do that at some other time once I get it MOTd. Didnt realise you got aluminium grease. Will keep that in mind. Alasdair

if you have a diagnostic tool (vcds would be great) look for the injector value and see if there is any problem with injector 4 while the car is running

10 out of 10 for your MOT person reporting that, it might just avoid you getting stranded while attempting to re-fuel. It would be the MOT person checking the filler cap seal condition that ended up with that discovery.

The pivot areas for each wiper arm might need cleaning up and re-greasing - I've seen that on a 2002 SEAT Ibiza - that one was left too long and it attempted to, and succeeded in, destroying the wiper linkage, so one new link arm was needed as well as cleaning up the pivot points. I will add that in addition to the pivots "stiffening up", rain water was directed down and out through a hole in the scuttle panel and so landing on top of one of the wiper's link arm's joints, a smart bit of design there by VW Group! The minimum I'd try, if you are able, is to drip down quite a bit of even 3-in one oil in below the wiper arms, that should end up getting into the wiper arm's top pivots - that might sort things out for a few months or more - I did that to my wife's previous car which was a 2002 VW Polo - and that sorted its wipers out. Edit:- do that while the wipers are running on slow speed before trying to see if it helps the fast speed operation.

If it is the solenoid that operates the locking mechanism then surely that should be the element that is replaced, not the filler door? As to costs - anything from £10 upwards for the solenoid part plus fitting at about 5 minutes... Replacing the fuel filler flap actuator Skoda Octavia 3

You mentioned slapping some copper grease over the bolt to stop it seizing next time, I'd reckon that it should be aluminium grease that you use there - I applied as much aluminium grease along/over all the pinch bolts that pas through aluminium uprights on my 2011 Audi S4 - as well as trying to completely fill the "pinch gaps" with same aluminium grease, again to try to stop moisture getting in there and causing that horrible bolt seizing issue. Copper grease, when used on bolts etc that will not be moved for many years, has now got a bad name for causing seizing - which is not what you'd expect.

Thank you for the replies I have moisture in this unit how can i get rid of it ?

Had MOT Urgent Attention notice - 'Fuel filler cap solenoid temperamental, requires replacement filler door'. Anyone had that & what was the approx. cost?

When I first started this thread, I had my suspicions that it was a money-making scheme and far less about clean air. I kept pointing out that our air was already pretty clean and we were all on average living far longer than people before us, and this trend has been going upwards since 1950, never once dipping down, despite what we were all told. Now I urge you all to actually watch this video, and please don't dare to comment without actually watching the video. I know that many of you claim that these videos are nothing other than clickbait, but you would be totally wrong on that point. I also said that these LEZ cameras were being installed, using clean air as a cover for their real purpose, and many of you at the time disagreed with me and claimed that the air quality was actually shortening people's lives, despite figures proving the exact opposite was happening. So this guy actually goes through all the contracts issued by governments, councils, etc., and follows where and who the money goes to and who has to end up actually paying and just who ends up making fortunes from these deals, and why there is never any real consultation and why even when there is massive backlash, with a bigger number of objections than votes were cast for the government in the election, these schemes still go ahead. Genuine comments welcomed to this, please, but only after you watch the video.

Quick Update. Job done. Drivers side bolt was a nightmare. Wedged a tube into bolt hole open end hole raised and filled with 50/50 Acetone/hydraulic32 oil and let seep overnight. Still a nightmare to get out. Tighten/loosen/tighten etc Passenger side easier but used same method and still pretty tight. Ran a tap carefully through threads to clean out corroded alloy. Bushes were also a nightmare. So much alloy corrosion in console bracket the metal insert that pushes them out on the puller set seized in console so had to destroy old bushes to get them out. Cleaned everything up and its now back together. Old bushes were pretty soft with the drivers side the centre came out with wishbone. New swing arms/new bolts and ball joints/track rod end while I was at it. Absolutely no play now in front wheels now. Dont want to do that job again in a hurry. Only thing to do now is MOT and wheel alignment. Alasdair

I have a MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0353T unit. In the glove box I have only one SD card slot. Is there any chance to activate Android Auto on this one ?

Hello, I have a Škoda Scala of 2019. My infotainment is MEN3_EU_SK370_P9494P / Mw 0464. Is there an Update to be done ? Thank you

Hi everyone! I have a 2016 Skoda Octavia with a Bolero multimedia system. MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0353T Could somebody help me activate Android Auto for this system. It doesn't have navigation and has only one SD card slot. Any suggestions?

do a service manual on 30000 and 60000 kms, and in between do just oil change by yourself. use a vacum pump and suck from dipstick hose. dont touch sump plug. service wont investigate which oil is in engine.

unbelivable. so AGM are not cheaper with no reason..

OBD11 can deactivate it as in stop it automatically turning back on . ( one ovens few feature which are offered on SFD2 cars ) I have not tried it as it’s a useful feature when the maps are working and also not sure how VAg would react to the setting change or if the online updates would just reset it

I don't think you can permanently switch off the speed limit warning (the chimes when you exceed whatever Skoda thinks the limit is). I actually like this feature in case I accidentally miss a speed limit change on an unfamiliar road, but you do need to learn not to slavishly react to it. But you can turn off the speed limit following, where the car automatically changes speed to follow what it thinks the limit is. My opinion - and I think the consensus from this thread - is that it just doesn't work reliably enough to leave it engaged and could be potentially dangerous.

I haven't found a way of switching off the speed limit warning permanently, I have to switch it off every time I restart the car. Ditto for Lane Assist.

If the car has build code 1KE, then search for any of the five below OEM part numbers. Build code 1KE is an ATE brake system. Brake pads for 272x10mm rear brake discs (build code 1KE) 5WA698451 5WA698451E 5WA698451G 8Y0698451 8Y0698451C https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5wa698451?supplier%5B%5D=833&supplier%5B%5D=62&supplier%5B%5D=48&supplier%5B%5D=3

I've had a few AGM batteries on my MX5 and they've not lasted well at all, failing quite quickly due to cold weather and, or low charge. I've therefore moved back to EFB and they've been far more reliable - I won't be buying AGM again unless I absolutely have to as they are too fagile IMHO.

Tbh I'm starting to leaning towards getting the Bosch AGM, hopefully should only cost about €200 then hopefully I should be able to code it myself with OBDEleven.