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I was in my local Skoda dealership to collect a new Lambda connectors mounting bracket as I broke a tang on my wife’s 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI while replacing the post cat probe - so I just opened my wallet and bought a new filler cap seal. The parts guy said that this seal does not move quickly - the one that I bought had been waiting to get bought for about a year!

Hi Dave and welcome, it would be interesting to hear your comparisons between the two when you have had it a while.

The links were to search the matter deeper. You already have the parts code to look in e-shops even for used parts,best of luck. 😉

From memory on my folks old mk1 estate there were captive nuts under rubber trim. Problem may be getting second hand rails. Couple breaking on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226402866561?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+I%7CModel%3AFabia&_skw=skoda+fabia+mk1+estate+breaking&itmmeta=01M22N4AYK6BF9TZ5QQFGWVBS2&hash=item34b6a99581:g:m5AAAOSwoktnDzfF&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDjEtQFMEhSDtgDDQhh%2FR%2BKn7twjgzNQl35XX%2FAXNZZTOBwJNrhjpi%2FFI%2F1%2BpIz%2FOEUM6fRBj2OKLAzlhNOQxqJD4GhH2VnbHuz78IRFlO8Q1rmjug7JPg%2BhHFtq15ym89Yoiku%2Bzd5PnWazUpbhyK7Wqu6KbA3w4QZFw289RhSfxp2iUAD7K8nQw8N6sWvDKnBfneRr7XlMH%2B4%2Fu0yQQBviHqQGccz8Yry0vx3bY%2FsKIsPbEV7RojU0IxMb%2FZ4XQ%2FmOm4dawS3iA0XKsNqKOF2%2FBbCfPO%2Buh0SjNJubdNjItE1J4Ds2tPsIEYH%2FdPbNuY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8SvkdWQaA https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256686877910?_skw=skoda+fabia+mk1+estate+breaking&itmmeta=01M22N4AYKV8DN80FXPK91VZ56&hash=item3bc3baecd6:g:CgAAAOSwT5dnGQTv&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDgMrnePzINnqFd0NCA2u2Ojg9jTP5EjLUrr525QMq8azqsZKU16zpOQobx2rM1%2FXtSGm%2BS9FUDtF2SaAMF34WdlZb5VBfoL1xVgrvxMcorEWj9Rr%2BU7fSOx7wUkRbTUUNTwhO7j5ErCh%2FTzmB%2F9Zl2JlfSqgf77T%2FTFaHkS7NkN%2FjmD2e0pelo2KiN2eyS2OjrpkyFd%2BNxdDraS5UxYJKqZfKSEx0x94L3Pkx2Be0ThKVdZhskE%2BVOU8rcpw1X1YbmR7WsSa9v50EToXGxsfHbb8kN%2FyT1ZPlOJH3Ud%2FX1qs%2BmaNIf2opXTTUpemFw%2BUY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8avkdWQaA Alasdair

The rear lights of Skoda Fabia Mk4 cars can be 'all LEDs' or be a mix of LEDS and conventional bulbs. This 2023 forum enquiry was about the latter type. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/513749-rear-light-bulbs-for-mk4-fabia/#comment-5760144 and (for right-hand-drive models) the 'mix' is as shown below, with the outer light-units having bulbs, while LEDs are used in the two number-plate light-units and (on the right side of the hatch) in the fog=light/reversing-light unit. The light-unit on the left side of the hatch is a dummy and has no LEDs in it. Left-hand-drive models will have a LED fog=light/reversing-light unit on the left side of the hatch and the light-unit on the right side of the hatch will be a dummy. with no LEDs in it. The bulb-changing guidance in the Fabia Owner's Manual is fairly good and the types of bulb involved are shown in the image below Gaining access to the bulbs should be straightforward. Pull off the black plastic cover that's next to the light-unit; remove the two T25-head retaining screws; pull the light-unit straight backwards. There's a small plastic ball (purple ringed on the image) that engages with a small plastic socket in the bodywork and a small amount of force may be needed to get the ball to disengage. The Manual suggests that the light-unit be disconnected, but that should not be necessary just to change a bulb. I found that removing the P21W (brake light) and WY16W (indicator light) bulb-holders was easy, but removing the W5W (tail light) bulb-holder was fiddly. The P21W and W5W bulbs were OSRAM-marked and I assume that the amber WY16W bulb. was also an OSRAM product.

thanks i will try it today

For basic functions they are ok but : random crashes horrible phone call quality => so AA or carplay unusable by voice as the unit does not understand anything USB wire has to be split and rewired as it is wired for the power of the MK2 no more car diagnostics so so steering wheel controls Hit or miss drive mode showing on the screen (depends on the brand => EBILAEN shows it) I tried 3 of theme before upgrading to MIB2. If you can live the flaws, they are ok but if the mentionned is important, stay away

Cheers for the update and sorry to see all the parts are failing because of it but yours was the testament that was defying everyone else’s (and giving me hope I wouldn’t have to **** around returning mine). Gone with @JR RS ’s suggestion although Delphi were out of stock so KYB variants on their way.

Before dabbing paint on rust spots, dab 'Rust Converter' on them and let it act / react.

Good news according to AI which looks on the ball for once.

If you mean the infotainment screen then yes.

I've got an android head unit, it has a dedicated wire for the job in the loom!

mine is a 2025 2.0TDI DSG estate and I pull a Mayland Mariner with alot of water trapped in the floor! You have a"slushbox" which is great for edging forwards (compared with my DSG which has to engage a clutch each time it edges forwards in traffic), but heat buildup on long inclines would be your issue. I am sure the basic "OBDeleven 3" would give you your gearbox temperature, but you'd need to test it beforehand on the same hills to know whats normal, and find out the temp thresholds for your model of gearbox. The max temp is to do with the max temp the transmission oil can handle. I think on some slushboxes the final drive (top gear) is a locked up gear and this is the one you want engaged as much as possible on the motorway to reduce hydraulic heat buildup (ie. gives it the chance to cool down after an incline). Bear in mind that the "towing prep" at the factory is the installation of the "J345 Trailer Control Module" (in the case of my car). This changes software mappings in the engine/gearbox and the car can reverse without it thinking it is about to hit a trailer...

Sorry for the late reply! but thank you for your responses Well that's good, seeing some prices online estimate £600-£1500 for a clutch replacement! I'm glad I have time to save up for when it comes around I would have hoped that the VAG specialists would have had a look at that when they inspected it, they did notice that one of the wheels wasn't tightened on properly and I've not been up to 70mph since so I should probably do that to see if its still there. Still, there is a local Kwik Fit that I could ring up and see if they would check the balancing How would I go about checking this? Aha it feels bigger in person, especially on a sunny day. I know its just a cosmetic thing but it would be nice to have it smooth additionally one of the guys I went to offered to give me the remaining bits of the paint mix and dab on the rusty bonnet spots with a cocktail stick. Mechanical fixes are always going to be a priority over it though. Something I didn't even consider!

Hi all, just purchased my first Skoda (Fabia SEL Edition) after many years of buying Toyota’s. (5 in total) Hopefully made the right call 😁

This headliths calibration can be done using Obd11 or vscd as I posted earlier. That's what I've been told and lad seems to know what he is doing, he's been coding successfully VAG cars for years. Would be helpful if someone more experienced from our forum confirm that it has been done and worked too. Cheers

thanks all for the comments... No idea if it has any factory 'towing prep' apart from stating GVM and towing values. Seems that I can get the euro style towbars that remove/rotate/hide as well as the hayman reese style with the square hitch - which is pretty much the local default, like https://haymanreese.com.au/products/towbar-to-suit-skoda-octavia-11-2013-on-03386rw Yes its a single axle, 5.5m trailer yacht. Is there a transmission temp sensor that can be monitored while driving ? or is it just a warning light that comes on when its too hot ? @Warriror193 - how heavy was your cruiser that you towed ? What did you tow it with ? Was it comfortable or stressful on the car ?

Yes, but what ODIS did also is initiated Headlight basic setting routine and run Acknowledge headlights basic routine. This forces physical matrix shutters to clear their stored calibrations and accept new settings. Without this your headlights will still operates as you've changed nothing.

Cheers for this. Back go the TRC1070 items then. You def called it @JR RS - In my (our) defence there isn’t an AI LLM or retailer who doesn’t list everything MQB as compatible. Started going down a track-width rabbit hole. The TTS track is still thinner (by less) so the OE TTS alloy ones would still be wrong. Only car I could think with a wide track was 8Y RS3. 4mm wider overall so 2mm per side is a fraction of a degree more negative camber. Might be what these Delphi items are for? As now, trying to find OE RS3 is impossible without stumbling across a million items which are apparently compatible with RS3 and everything else (ie not at all). They look a good find though!

It's a pain in... Main issue is that it should work as designed but it doesn't. Tbh now, when it's "fixed" I still don't really use headlights in Auto on motorway. There is to many cars and lights are going crazy. It works much more efficient on smaller roads where I can see them going on and off and nicely cutting out oncoming traffic. But it would be expected from Skoda to fix it, unfortunately its not going to happen...

Hi. Same issue here. Sometimes the one in the boot lid is off at all and sometimes just goes off instead of fading away. That is left one in my case. Right one just fail to go on sometimes. Tapping with the hand solves it for a long time but it is aventually comes back to this problem. It could be wire damaged in the top rubber boot or corroded pin or loose connector at the back of actual lights caused by vibration or slamming boot. Mine is electric but apparently even slow closing could cause this. It's known issue with mk3. I just have to find time to look at this, strip the inner tailgate panel and inspect the problem. Have you managed to solve your lights by any chance? Cheers

My RHD driving on a UK - left hand traffic - motorway cuts the beam at the central reservation and no one gets dazzled in the oncoming traffic and the left hand side of the road is lit up. Driving in right hand traffic with this RHD car it DOES NOT cut the beam at the central reservation - left side - and the oncoming traffic gets blinded. I guess it is the other way round with a LHD in right hand traffic. And this is the flaw of this thread.

I just posted in Mario's post - I would not put those SuperPro LCAs on my Superb

Tis wat I've been saying for a while now - they're too short (width-wise) for the Superb. The camber will b wrong. Delphi TC4442 and TC4443 r a good option suitable for the mk3 Superb. These Audi-spec alloy LCAs r the same width as the Passat/Superb arms, and a Passat owner in Europe recently installed them. Based on the discussions on the golfmk7 forums, these r bigger than all of the alloy Golf Mk7 sized arms available on the market, which is why the Golf guys were looking at using these wider arms to increase wheel track and camber on their track/fast street cars. I'll b changing my LCA to these once the time comes for Gandalf.

Oh i see. Bummer