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Another matter that has got me thinking is the service intervals. The car says it's every 18,000 or two years. I'm not sure I have ever had a car that could go two years without a service, and 18,000 miles on the same oil seems strange.

Thank you, @rum4mo and @CianKT ; I'll take the car out some time in the next days to where I can park it, running, warmed up (easy in the Mediterranean heat!!), with the A/C running for a while, and plug in my OBDelevent. rum4mo, I apologize, I don't quite understand - what does the "online - ambient temperature dependent" mean? cheers, -Jay

Works if the tyres are though 🤣

Passive TPMS only (pressure loss determined by ABS sensors, not direct measurement of pressure) on the Superb. Bit of a let-down on a supposedly top-of-the-range car, really.

Little-known fact - "Skoda" is Czech for "rattle". The trim build quality (along with the software) is the big thing which lets down what should be a great car. I've had mine a year, and I'm still chasing rattles and buzzes in the trim and plastics.

Do you have any pics of them? The metal is rubber coated to prevent scratches, albeit it's not very thick.

So been on hear for years but haven't posted in ages. Had a MK1 Octavia 1.8 petrol that did a sterling job of protecting my wife and baby when involved in a crash on the M25 that involved going up the embankment. Had a few Honda Accords and an S-Max before getting a MK3 Octavia 2 litre diesel. Finally took the plunge and bought an 18 plate 280 Superb estate sportline, for more passenger and boot space, as I'm 6'5" have a 15 and 17 year old who aren't short, my wife and the dog. So anyway bought the car 1 week ago, ran if for a week or so locally and have just driven it 500 miles from the Peak District to the west coast of Scotland for a total of 9 hours of driving. Observations are that there is loads more space than the Octy, ACC is awesome, and I'm glad I got the 280 rather than a 190 diesel. Made overtaking on the A9 easy. MPG on the trip up was 32, so not too bad. Ride is way more comfortable than the Octavia, but does wallow a bit over undulations so thinking Bilstein B6s or Koni active shock upgrade at some point. After the journey me and my wife both commented that we were way less fatigued than if we'd have taken the Octavia. So far, so happy.

No touch screen but I've figured it out. There are teeny little touchpads on either side of the steering wheel just needs a swipe of the thumb to skip. Easy when you know how. Also no touch screen you have to the the wheel, touch pad combo thing. Which works but isn't wonderful. Yeah, salesman warned me about 'crabbing' they are prone to it, the 63s even more so. Luckily for now I'm a very low mileage driver so not the end of the world. The tailpipe is wonderfully antisocial though. It barks and farts and bangs even when you've not got it set to noisy. Also no eco-mode on the AMG they don't even pretend

I literally had one of my alloys cleaned and rim sealed due to air loss by the rim. 2013 alloys on a mk2 octavia

Ditto on our Octavia Scout. Mainly on the offside but lumpy roads also.

sorry just realised your in slovakia Alasdair

Put skoda octavia mk1 vrs breaking into ebay and 8 came up. There might be the right one available Alasdair

Hey up i was wodering if people would help me and point me in the right direction for what the issiue is. The power steering light has came on and the pump is grinding when i turn the car on and the steering is heavy like the car isnt turned on. There is no leaking. Also the lights recently started dipping when I steer. Thanks

Adding some photos here i[ updated price to 12995

Other than alloy wheel corrosion requiring scrubbing the wheel and resealing, which normally gives a slow puncture effect ! I've had that on a few older Subarus.

look at my post here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538234-spongey-brakes-new-problem-with-abs/#comment-6000661 in the bottom of the page there is the explanation of the long coding

Does it lock normally with the internal central locking button? Play around with the locking settings, ie: all doors locked or just the drivers door, unset and reset the auto locking function. It may clear the fault.

depend on your bcm realistically, i have the bcm 6R7937087P and i've retrofitted the following: Cruise control rear electric window cornering fog light (via turn signal or steereing imput) Climatronic anti theft system heated seats headlight washer rear pdc (and also front all oem amarok pdc unit and mk2 octavia wiring) multi function steering wheel Working on ASF tings that you can enable: via bcm: confort closing and opening of the window via the key fob (if not already active) visual confirmation of the closing window via key hole or key fob (the azzard blink once when all window close), after the retrofit of the cornering light via fog light you can code the steering angle and the speed for them to turn on, after the headlight washer retrofit you can chose how often you want to use it, via abs module (I have the 6R0 907 379 AF) and I manage to enable hill hold assist, indirect tpms and XDS is an electronic simulation of a meccanical differential basiccaly it brake the slipping tyre during a fast corner to improove traction to the other front wheel (it works only on the fron wheels), activation of the brake wipe if is raining and you have the wiper on the abs module will brake wery slightly to dry pads and brake discs, airbag unit: still under process (I need the time to do it) front passenger ccupancy pads (dectects if there is a weight on the seats and if the seatbelt isn't fastened the warning will beeping, instrument cluster, needle celebration when turning the ignition on, service intervals (I've setted mine to 10k km instaed of 15k km), steering assist weight I've setted mine to fabia vrs/polo gti to increase the weight of the steering, many other things that when I will remember that I'll update the post. (also a ton of mechanical mods).

Hi All Could anyone comment on their experience with using the Remote app to cool their car remotely? For me, it seems to work, but not especially well. Its possible that its better when I have the car connected to a charger vs not connected at all, which is something I'd need to test a little bit more now I'm mindful of it. I'm going to the car in a few mins, and I kicked it off 15mins ago, so I'll see how it feels this time and start to take more notice in future. Also, is anyone else getting quite regular System Updates at the moment? I seem to get them every few days! I've been watching them complete by opening them in the notifications panel, where you can see the progress. But still seems to be ever more a few days later. (Its a 2021 iV L&K)

A brief visit to a sunflower maze today.

keep in mind that all the immo data is stored in the cluster so new key and oem central locking retrofit require the key coding, also the mk3 cluster is not compatible too much different platform and software, look for 3dcolormfd for a display upgrade wich doesn't require a key program

With the two physical dial system of the Amundsen, I often use the right hand dial to easily zoom in and out on the map (ie, big picture versus detail), especially somewhere new. I use it as a real map, old style - which being digital (and a GPS) is easy and quick to reference on the move - I never use it as a Sat Nav. I've just noticed that the (better?) Columbus system has no physical dials.... How does one easily (and safely) use any zoom functionality on that? One barely has to look away from the road when there is a dial to control the zoom? I'm useless with touch screens at the best of times - is there some other knob or dial somewhere that conveniently doubles up for that purpose? Or is it actually quite easy to use, as above but in a quite different way? [ And apologies if it's already been covered - I tried the search here but I struggled to find anything. ]

I’ve had 1 not working after removal. Didn’t have any ecu connection methods at the time. Took a punt that it might’ve got forgotten about as such (don’t know the correct terminology or cause but it worked) so I unplugged the module and plugged it back in and it worked again.

Backing out of the drive yesterday I realised I had what I thought was a puncture. Fortunately still being at home it was a quick job to remove the affected wheel and replace it with the spare tyre. (Sometimes you can be grateful for being old school). When I got home I carefully looked round the tread and both sidewalls but other than the odd bit of grit there was nothing. The pressure in the tyre was zero, so absolutely flat. Being tight with my money I avoided rushing straight off to the local tyre dealer for a pair of new tyres - the tread is down to about 3mm on both sides so a puncture repair would been better spent on a new tyre and as I like to keep the tyres on the same axle as close to identical as possible it would have been a case of replacing both tyres. I have a large capacity plastic trug, I half filled that with water and, after partially inflating the tyre (about 25 psi), I was able to rotate the wheel/tyre through the water a section at a time. After three rotations there was still no sign of a stream of bubbles, not even from the valve, which was my second suspect after a puncture. I inflated the tyre to 40psi (I usually run it at 33psi) and after 24 hours this afternoon it was still holding at 40psi. I've now refitted it back on the car but I'm bemused as to why it should fully deflate - it was sat under the car port after I used it the previous day. I even wondered about someone letting it down as a prank but firstly "Why?" and if you did that would you bother to replace the dust cap? And nothing was picked up on the security camera that covers the drive and car port, although that's not a guarantee as despite being a Tapo model I've found it not to be 100% reliable, just better than nothing. As far as I can remember I've not had a puncture repair in this set of tyres and if a repair had failed I can't believe it would self repair. There's no kerbing (curbing) on the wheel that might suggest a failure of the seal between the wheel and the tyre. I'm totally bemused. Has this ever happened to anyone else or has anyone any thoughts on what might have happened?

Yes paul many cross over parts as with all the marques across the VAG range but do your due diligence.