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I was wondering if anyone knows how often I need to do alignment on my 2024 4x4 Skoda? Do I need to go to a dealership because of 4x4 or it can be done in a local garage It is L&K with active suspension.

I don't think it could be temp related. It happens after short runs and long runs, and in any weather

Hi, You did (in the topic title) ;). But you didn't answer my question about temps.

@Breezy_Pete thank you for your effort! This morning, I ran a scan on a cold engine and got the usual cold-start behavior, and refused to clear: Immediate rescan: I cleared the code (P25AB00) on cold ignition. OBDeleven automatically rescanned the ECU a second later and caught the code again immediately. Checking the Freeze Frame data, I noticed a new timestamp and slightly changed parameters. I retried clearing it twice, and after each clear, a new timestamp and slightly changed parameters appeared. The 60-second delay: After failing twice, I turned the ignition OFF, waited a full 60 seconds, and turned the ignition back ON. Upon scanning, the frequency counter had increased to 2. I cleared the code, and this time it stayed gone! I then drove to work with no faults at all, and the Start-Stop system worked perfectly the entire way. A fresh scan upon arrival at work showed zero faults. I also checked the fuse box in the engine bay — I pulled out and reseated all fuses and relays to ensure good contact. All pins and terminals look completely spotless with zero visible signs of corrosion or oxidation.

400 hp?! Damned! 😃

Your title says octavia...I am afraid few people to noone can help you here, as it is a Kodiaq place...

Pay attention that your wife doesn't imagine there's a woman sleeping on the back seats of your car, once doors are closed! 🤣

Sorry, I thought I'd mentioned that. It's an IV

Hi, Could it be related to to current hi temps? Did you already notice this by cooler temps?

Thanks. The side skirts also help it bring it closer to the ground. No change in horsepower since the last update. Back then it was doing bout 200 hp, when i first got it. Now it's doing 400 hp 😁 That's not going to change anymore.

Top, dat ga ik morgen even testen. Bedankt voor jullie reacties!

Ja, je kunt het ook testen. Als je in de auto zit en je de achterklep open doet, dan merk je dat er meer bas ontstaat. Dat duid op de fase rotatie. Het verschil is enorm als je het stekkertje omdraait!

I just bought Skoda Rapid 2018 1.0tsi turbo, with radio swing but it doesnt have carplay or even bluetooth, any solutions or options to modify it to have that added?

Ja

Dankjewel voor je reactie. Ik wacht nog even af of ik een reactie krijg ... en anders misschien toch maar zelf aan de slag. Is het echt zo simpel om die 2 verdikkingen eraf te halen? En het heeft bij jou het geluid positief veranderd, waardoor het voller klinkt en ook meer bass geeft?

Hi, ik had dezelfde vraag. Maar helaas geen antwoord op gehad. Ik heb de lipjes met een mesje eraf gesneden en de stekker omgedraaid. Wereld van verschil in nog geen minuutje werk!

Hi, I'm also an owner of a Superb 1.4 iV facelift model (2021) with the Canton Audio .... The sound is ok, but I'm missing the bass, the 'warm' sound. I've checked the connector and there are 2 lugs unfortunately, so I'm not able to turn it around without modifications. I'm a little bit reserved in changing the connector, because I want to know if this will fix the sound for me. @spacelord , Do you still make and ship these adapters to the Netherlands? I'm currently not able to send a PM, because I'm new to this forum.

All went to plan (following this guide) until I snapped off the nipple on the DV valve! It's the Bosch one, looked a bit too shiny to be the original but who knows? Anyway that's VW hose clips for you, the devil's work. The rain didn't help, had to run for cover all the time. Fortunately I have Creation Motorsport about 30 mins away so will throw more cash at this crazy project, and get a new DV (they sell aluminium ones). Which spring should I put in it? It comes with three; my vrs is a stage one map but nothing else upgraded. Despite this I'm getting better at this ho ho

I'm not going to explain it further; you just need to think outside the box a bit. It might well be a load of *******s, and then again it might not. I merely offered another viewpoint; the technology is there, and it is now well proven that ANPR can identify the car. All that is now required is to network the ANPR data, and the government agency has all the info it needs to implement PPM. Join up the dots and see what you make of it. Revenue raised by LEZ, stays with the local authorities and should be used to improve local transport. Revenue from speeding fines goes directly to the government's HM Treasury Consolidated Fund.

noxik600 Do you have the coding so I can enable "Rear lights during daytime running lights", as I see this is one of your mods. Thanks in advance

Hi forum users, I'll introduce myself. Since this month I'm driving my 3rd Skoda. The first was an Octavia Estate 1.6 FSI from 2006, the second a Superb Estate 1.8 TSI from 2010 and now I'm a proud owner of a Superb Estate 1.4 iV L&K from 2021. What a great car! I was already member of a Dutch Skoda forum, but for more tips and tricks I registered myself on BRISKODA as well. Regards, Bjorn

As E13 says above, engine is much better served if driven-off very soon after start - and driven reasonably gently until up to temperature. Coolant and oil will get up to operating temperature faster if this is done, bore-washing and wear will also be reduced.

I've recently been told that the valve stem seals in my TFSI DSG vRS need replacing (2012, 140k). It's been drinking oil for a while, rough idles when cold and wet, and when investigated there was oil on two spark plugs and white tips on the others. It currently runs fine most of the time, but will now intermittently throw a wobbly for a few minutes which results in a flashing engine management light, some misfires and kangarooing down the road (hence the investigation work). I've been quoted £1.5-2k to get it done. My guess is the car is worth £2-3k when running properly, but I'm happy to be guided. I've recently had £400 work done (new spark plugs and PCV) and fitted a new (Bosch Silver) battery. The car is otherwise in good condition with a decent service history (I think full, but would need to check) and we were thinking of selling before this started. Two questions: Does anyone have an idea how much valve stem seal replacement should cost? I know it involves removing the head, which is my guess where a lot of the cost is. And is it worth doing to sell as a roadworthy car, or sell before the work with full disclosure? I have an invoice with work done (above) and their suspicions of what the root cause is. Thanks

On on vehicles 1st registered in the UK from the 1st March 2018.

Yes, the green one. Now I have, Black with M on the end.