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The extended length of these is also 552mm. So the length of my dampers is not the problem. But it really feels like it tops out when decompressing...

At last, got it back from the welding and paintwork. I've looked at the offside so far,brake backing plate with Fertan, and plate welded in for the holes.

do it without soldering.

The below listing on "skoda parts com" for the genuine Skoda front shock absorber lists both 1T0413031FK and 1T0413031HL, so these two OEM part numbers are interchangeable. Genuine Skoda shock absorber 1T0413031FK 1T0413031HL https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/jzw413031a-front-shock-absorber-skoda-14488.html

So soldering is the only way. Could you please explain how or maybe there is a tutorial. I searched all over the internet and can't find a video or explanation on what to solder and what else I need.

AGM is the OE battery type for the car and it was originally fitted with a Panasonic AGM battery at the factory. Subsequent replacements from Westco or similar have been poor in comparison, lasting at most 2 years, which is why I switched away from AGM. If you've had good experiences with them that's great to hear - unfortunately I haven't and would not purchase one again given their significantly higher cost and the significantly lower lifetimes I've experienced from them. EFB batteries or even basic standard batteries have proven to last around 4 to 5 times longer than AGM in my experience.

Hi Derek. Thanks for the information HHC is a really good feature with a manual gearbox i will look into having HHC activated if possible.

Does the MX5 have a charging algorithm for AGM batteries? If not then it is likely to be over charging them and hence causing their life to be minimised. The Octavia has a specific AGM algorithm so optimises the charging rate and voltage. I stand by what I said that I always choose AGM, with the qualification that this applies to vehicles with charging algorithms for AGM.

So the ones I have installed (22-183729) do fit my car, yes? So the Damper lenght is not the issue if I undestand you well? Thanks for taking time to double check the references anyway!

Pre 2018 was 5w 30 FS III. Long life. VW 504 00 / 507 00, fixed or variable oil changes. Or 5W 40 FS if fixed oil regime and if you wanted. Then the new emissions testing came in and VW said 0w 20 FS IV. VW508 00 / 509 00 So please yourself. The 2017/18 change is not backwards comparable according to VW. Good choice if tuned. 0W 30 FS. VW 504 00 / 507 00. Dead simple .lol.

I think it's 5W30 but @Evolution13 will probably correct me on thet.

Afternoon all Sorry if this is a common thread but i cannot fathom out what is the correct engine oil specification from the manual. It says something like 100110110101. what the heck is that? Does somebody please have something i can read and understand like, 5W30 or 10W40. Most appreciated from an old duffer.

I’ve had one, since March, and can very much recommend. It’s comfortable, quiet, looks good, and the level of tech is really good. Love the sports seats in the SportLine, I’ve had back issues on long journeys in other cars, but they’ve very much gone now - seats are very supportive. Not had any reliability issues. Have had a windscreen crack (stone chip) and had to order some new windscreen trim after going through the monkey enclosure at Knowsley Safari Park, but that’s hardly the car’s fault 😆 Boot space is excellent, and there’s still plenty of legroom for back seat passengers if you pull the back seats forward a little. Love the tech levels. The LED headlights are absolutely fantastic. The entertainment system is one of the best I’ve had, no lag, no bugs when you press something. Wireless CarPlay works great. Nice big screen. Can recommend getting the Head’s Up Display option - makes road concentration so much easier. The Skoda app works really well to set charge levels, set remote preconditioning, check fuel efficiency, etc. The hybrid (rather than full electric or full combustion) suits me perfectly. I usually do short journeys and so the car runs on electric mode most of the time, with using the hybrid on longer journeys. Like you, we’ve got a home wall charger, and ours is linked to solar panels, so frequent short charges (especially when it’s sunny) suits perfect. I’m currently at 135 mpg since my last visit to the petrol station (about 6 weeks ago, still got about 85% of a tank left). Since March (with about 2 months of doing 120 mile-round journeys twice a week for work), I’m averaging 85mpg. Minor grumbles (and they are minor) - it can be a little frustrating if you need to boot the accelerator from a standstill (like coming out of a side road onto an A-road), as there is a slight lag when the petrol engine kicks in from the initial electric pull-off, but that’s a minor grumble in that particular situation (and probably comes from my previous vehicles being 3.2 litre diesels). Normal driving is absolutely fine, pulls well on motorways even when fully laden (me, the other half, two kids in the back, boot full of camping gear, and a roof box). Another minor grumble is that the reverse parking sensors don’t seem to be as sharp as my previous cars - if you reverse at anything other than a crawl, you can be caught out as there seems to be a lag in the sensor alert. But again, that’s minor and I’ve just adjusted my driving style. But other than that, I really can’t pick any other faults.

Virtual Cockpit used Tarraco Retrofit Leon. Immo Change ans Miles About all in 30 min

With the dipstick removed there could be some oil come out normally same as oil filler cap. If its a spray or steady stream it could be a faulty PCV or as you said blow by caused by worn piston rings or it could have been overfilled. I would check oil level first to make sure its correct. From memory engine up to temp and then park on flat surface and leave for 5 mins then check level and top up if required. If its the PCV valve it can cause poor idling and also oil leaks/smokey exhaust if stuck. Piston rings I assume would cause smoke and excessive oil usage. Had an old fiat that pistons were shot and it used to randomly blow dipstick out if I revved it too high. Alasdair

Only with Take Out unit and Open

There is a reason there is an oil filler cap. It needs fitting. ? sorry i don’t understand, the oil cap was fitted, as it happens Ive ran the the engine with the oil cap just sitting over the oil filler and i think it maybe blow by or is it the car drives well ? i just wanted to know if anyone has experienced it thank you

I decided to go with dry bolts as didnt want to overtorque them as the threads in console were slightly worn. Used a bit of thread lock on tip of bolts to be on the safer side plus new genuine VAG bolts so should be ok. If I ever have to do it again I reckon I will replace Console brackets anyway or if feeling flush get a garage to do it. Was thinking of sealing open threaded end with a dab of silicone to stop salt etc getting in. Will do that at some other time once I get it MOTd. Didnt realise you got aluminium grease. Will keep that in mind. Alasdair

if you have a diagnostic tool (vcds would be great) look for the injector value and see if there is any problem with injector 4 while the car is running

10 out of 10 for your MOT person reporting that, it might just avoid you getting stranded while attempting to re-fuel. It would be the MOT person checking the filler cap seal condition that ended up with that discovery.

The pivot areas for each wiper arm might need cleaning up and re-greasing - I've seen that on a 2002 SEAT Ibiza - that one was left too long and it attempted to, and succeeded in, destroying the wiper linkage, so one new link arm was needed as well as cleaning up the pivot points. I will add that in addition to the pivots "stiffening up", rain water was directed down and out through a hole in the scuttle panel and so landing on top of one of the wiper's link arm's joints, a smart bit of design there by VW Group! The minimum I'd try, if you are able, is to drip down quite a bit of even 3-in one oil in below the wiper arms, that should end up getting into the wiper arm's top pivots - that might sort things out for a few months or more - I did that to my wife's previous car which was a 2002 VW Polo - and that sorted its wipers out. Edit:- do that while the wipers are running on slow speed before trying to see if it helps the fast speed operation.

If it is the solenoid that operates the locking mechanism then surely that should be the element that is replaced, not the filler door? As to costs - anything from £10 upwards for the solenoid part plus fitting at about 5 minutes... Replacing the fuel filler flap actuator Skoda Octavia 3

You mentioned slapping some copper grease over the bolt to stop it seizing next time, I'd reckon that it should be aluminium grease that you use there - I applied as much aluminium grease along/over all the pinch bolts that pas through aluminium uprights on my 2011 Audi S4 - as well as trying to completely fill the "pinch gaps" with same aluminium grease, again to try to stop moisture getting in there and causing that horrible bolt seizing issue. Copper grease, when used on bolts etc that will not be moved for many years, has now got a bad name for causing seizing - which is not what you'd expect.

Thank you for the replies I have moisture in this unit how can i get rid of it ?