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Moin Sven aus Norderstedt in Schleswig-Holstein. Freiburg im Altesland? Bitte beachte, dass die Standardsprache bei Briskoda Englisch ist. Es gibt zahlreiche Übersetzungsseiten, falls du Schwierigkeiten mit Englisch hast. Aber willkommen bei Briskoda und in der Skoda-Familie. 👍 Hi Sven from Norderstedt in Schleswig Holstein. Freiburg in the Altesland? Please be aware that the default language on Briskoda is English. There's plenty of translation websites if you struggle with English. But welcome to Briskoda and the Skoda family 👍

Wiring diagram for CGPA mk2s built before May 2011 is subtly different but functionally equivalent, I believe. Do you know when it was built?

Hallo. Ich bin Sven aus Freiburg /Germany und fahre einen 13 jährigen Octavia RS der viel Freude macht. Ich freue mich auf den Austausch 👍💪 Grüße Sven

First hypothesis is toast then. Here's the relevant circuit of the fuel pump relay - J17- and the so-called fuel supply relay J643 (which should kick in for a couple of seconds when driver's door opens for the first time after at least a half-hour layoff). Triggered via BCM pin taking the lower coil connection of J643 low. [173] connects to fuel pump. [37] is a permanent 12V from fuse 46. [136] is a feed to the ECU relay. J643 lives in position 10a in cabin fusebox

Cause aside, make sure to try and dry the carpets every day. Stick some dehumidifier bags in there, and even consider pulling the carpets/underlay. The problem is temporary, but any mould and mildew will be permanent.

@victor123 It's not ideal, but this is absolutely something you can sort yourself. You know what equipment you have and roughly what you touched, so you should be able to work out what doesn't belong where. @Alasdair1 is correct, however a lot of empty slots do still have contacts in them, and some are even hot - I know this, as that's how I powered my dashcam. This should help you https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/octavia/info/fusebox/2019#anchorfusebox1 If the car isn't starting, there are only a few things that will cause that.

Hey All, I've been down this road before, but am trying it slightly differently this time! I've started a Skoda group on WhatsApp. There's only 20 of us or so currently, but I'm looking to expand. We're from all over Europe (UK, Poland, Germany, Cz, Serbia, etc), and the group is really just to make friends with cool Skoda people! A meet(s) might come of it, but for the moment we're interested in making new friends, talking and having fun. I've no idea if it will interest anyone on here, but if it does, please drop a reply below, or send me a PM and I can add you. Occy

Further update: Yes, Breezy_Pete. Just done a test and the lights on audible warning does work.

Hi, I’m looking for the original firmware package MHIG_EU_SK_K1552 / MU0411 for my Skoda Columbus MIB1 High. Current SW Train: MHIG_EU_SK_P1055, MU: 0292, part number: 5E0035020B. Could you please send me a working download link or the original package? Thank you!

try https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ Look at original manufacturer diagrams and put in your vin. Should come up with correct part fitted. May need to look at PR code sticker in boot if its there to confirm Alasdair

Hi, Did the software update fix your issue? I have a Kodiaq 2.0tsi 200bhp DTUA with the exact same issue…

Hi, I own a skoda superb mk3 2016, which was pre-owned. The steering rack has a play when moving on rough roads or in stationary moving led and right. All tie rod ends etc where replaced, but didn't solve the problem. The rack part number on mine 3Q2 423 051H. But skoda showroom is telling it's not the correct part number of my model. They are saying it is 5Q2 423 055 L. Please help me find the correct part number. Looking to buy a used rack from a dismantled car. Car is RHD. Is 3Q2 or 5Q2 CORRECT part number. engine is CRGA 2.0 TDI 130kw

Hi, thanks. Ive changed the crank sensor (in the original pic, which is low down on back of the engine), spark plug and ignition coil in cyl 3 and still its turning over but not starting. Also charged battery and added extra fuel just in case. Any other ideas? MOT expires friday and big grey scrap heap is calling 😬

Tesla has bigger battery and more range but BYD charges quicker. Along with Mercedes trucks lets hope they compete and there is batter products. Both BYD and TESLA are masters at putting in infrastructure of course but dealing with the UK electricity network linking is oft a problem but both are also major battery pack producers so should be able to add 20 or 40 foot mega packs BESSs to support the 1.5 and 1.2 MW charging to keep down time low.

Hi @pab567 , Can you please help me get the latest firmware. Current version. Thank you...

I have had GT radial FE2 for a few years on my Octavias and also a Seat and pretty good tyre all round. Good in dry and wet. Sons got GT radial all season on his Fabia and also excellent in dry,wet and snow. Not too expensive either. Alasdair

Not sure on the roomster but on the octavia the rear swing arm bushes can fail/go soft and cause a weird bearing like noise as the rear end is out of alignment and the noise is tyres scrubbing as you drive. There are concentric bolts for the rear alignment to adjust camber and toe etc. Are the rear tyres wearing evenly? If the bushes have failed or worn the rear end may be out and tyres will wear unevenly. I would maybe get a four wheel alignment done and have the rear end bushes checked. Alasdair

Not sure, but there is a setting to enable the windows to close if it starts raining...

A heads up for you: did you know that eBay has a guarantee that if parts from their platform don't fit, you can return them FOC?

Can’t comment on him, but I travel over an hour to get to my usual service place. I pass about three dealers on the way!

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice regarding a recurring problem with my Skoda Octavia. Car details: Skoda Octavia II (1Z) Model/type: 1Z523C 2.0 TDI Common Rail Engine code: CFHC 103 kW / 140 hp Model year: 2013 I have been having recurring problems with the throttle valve/throttle actuator for several years. The throttle valve has already been replaced three times, approximately at two-year intervals. What concerns me now is that after the third replacement, the fault has returned after only about five months. The current diagnostic scan shows the following faults: P2100 – Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit/Open Status: Active/Static P2111 – Throttle Actuator Control System – Stuck Open Status: Passive/Intermittent P242C – Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low, Bank 1 Sensor 3 Status: Passive/Intermittent The P242C fault is new. During the previous throttle valve failures, I only had faults related to the throttle system; there was no exhaust gas temperature sensor fault. After having replaced the throttle valve three times, and with the latest one apparently developing a fault after only five months, I am starting to wonder whether the throttle valve itself is really the root cause. Could there be an underlying problem causing repeated throttle actuator failures, for example a wiring/connector or electrical supply problem, an EGR/intake-related issue, excessive contamination, or something else specific to the CFHC engine? I’m also interested to know whether anyone has seen P2100/P2111 together with P242C on this engine. Could the EGT sensor/circuit fault somehow be related to the recurring throttle problem, or are these most likely two independent issues? Before replacing the throttle valve for a fourth time, I would really like to understand why this keeps happening. Has anyone experienced something similar on a CFHC 2.0 TDI, or can suggest what should be checked next? Thanks in advance for any technical advice or experience. Best regards Luca

The Sat Nav knew the road was closed as it was showing as closed, I suspect because I had entered a rural post code it was too vague to determine a reasonable alterative route. I was coming from the north west and the closed road ran horizontally, I knew the parallel road to the north and once I got to a position roughly north of the post code it then produced the correct route. I find the built in Sat Nav is generally very good. Where I live we get a lot of temporary dynamic road closure during the day which may only last 1-3 hrs. The built in Sat Nav is very good at reporting these and roads with slow moving traffic - its almost like its using data from other vehicle with the same Sat Nav system.

I think @MarioVrs has an issue with the fact that the wrong parts have been delivered and now questioning that. The thing I find is that they give you every part under the sun - even when you've selected a vehicle and that should filter out what you want: my example was the Superb 280 is 340mm front discs and 310mm rears. All other Superbs (4x4 and FWD) are 312mm front and 300mm rear. Despite the autodoc website knowing I have my car selected, they would list all of the size options. Fine if you know what to look for, but for a layman who wants to buy rear discs and doesn't spot the difference then that's where the issues arise. That isn't necessarily an Autodoc thing solely - all sellers seem to not be able to differentiate between the 3 different versions of the EA888 engine in the 280 from pre to post FL. But I think this thread is that Autodoc's customer service and ease of return more than offsets any saving over popping down to the local GSF etc.

Whilst I've not had issues with AutoDoc in terms of delivery and the like I'd reinforce the need to be very careful in terms of due diligence on parts and part numbers. A search on a particular vehicle, or even a particular part number can come up with a lot of 'variations on a theme' so it's important to drill down into the further info that is available on the webseite and to double and triple check that what you want is what you are seeing offered on screen. My example re the above is with the rear arch liners for my daughter's Citigo - they're what I wanted, look to be suitable and arrived on time, are vastly cheaper than the OE parts but are clearly 'pattern' parts that 'will fit' but that are not an exact copy of the OE part. In my case the difference is that the OE part has the appropriate fitting screw holes already in them making finding the corresponding holes in the chassis and mounting them easier, whereas the ones I ordered don't have the fitting holes and I'll need to do the reverse - find the chassis holes and then drill the liners to suit. That wasn't clear from the website and just makes things slightly more complicated (albeit not bad enough to warrant returning them given the price differential!). Also I'd suggest a careful check of AutoDoc against other suppliers such as ILLParts - as prices can vary and I found some parts were cheaper at the other suppliers.

Today only a short trip out to fill the tank, as usual within a few yards of travel the 'update' message appeared, this was an ideal opportunity to do the install when I got back & parked up in the garage overnight, however the plan was not straightforward, once back home for the life of me I could not find any way to get 'Update' back on the screen, I must have been sat over half an hour pushing buttons, cursing Laura [no help at all] going through the manual, still no wiser which info out of 3 screen I've got if it makes a difference. Eventually managed to get UPDATE appear at the top left of the screen, gave it a press with no response, should it at least tell you its in progress ? Anyway, did as informed, got out and locked the car, now got crossed fingers