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If the new master is slightly out of tolerance compared to new one the actuator rod might be sitting too tight. You could try 0.5-1mm washers/shims to bring it forward slightly. Just done my daughters 205gti and had same problem. Got some washers and cut them into C sections Loosened master and slid them in place. Didnt take much about 1/2mm Hers was fine when cold but happend once driven for a while. Same as yours left for a while and it was fine. Alasdair

Yes that’s correct one for the Octavia on my 220 Superb, they had to make the end a little larger but does everything I had hoped

Yep angle grinder time. Sons were the same although his are slightly different with three nuts welded to bracket on top. Sheared two and third just spun. If you have a welder a quick spot on top might do. Give the threads on the ball joint a really good clean and releasol. If it starts spinning in its socket its a nightmare to get an allen/hex key in end to hold it. Had to cut my sons off as well. Alasdair

Cut them off if you have a tie rod extractor you’re good, in my Fabia and other vag I use this set https://www.amazon.it/supporto-eiettore-universale-estrattore-sferico/dp/B01N6NU329

Sorry I should have stated I'm in Australia and they recommend 8 to 10 percent that's just going off a google search I done I will tag it because it may be wrong? Which would put the van I'm looking at around 146kg but it does have gas bottles up front and a Annex stored in the middle of the van which I could move to the back or to the car I'm guessing would help? So do you think I would be able to lower it that low because that's like 50-60 kg? Thanks for your your response/help it's much appreciated!

Please try to do it and give feedback. In my case bring possitive results. Generally i Heard that the problem in vag group.

According to the wiring diagrams if you have the extended service intervals (ESI) you have the oil sensor in the oil pan, however attached there are the wiring diagrams, but probably you will need to code the different interval for the oil changes. From the 3 pin connector of the oil sensors in the pan you need to wire the pin this way T3F/1 (indicate the pin n° 1 in the connector T3F of the oil sensor) this pin have to be wired to the fuse n°3 which is already used so you need to split the wire and solder the one to power the oil sensor T3F/2 this pin is a ground in the ecu wiring harness you will need to find the pin T14a/7 and (like for the fuse) split the wire and solder there the new ground T3F/3 this is the pin that goes to the instrument cluster pin n° T32A/11 that need to be added because there is no wire in that position in the connector

https://towcar.info/outfitmatch.php Is good guide to check your specific set up by the exact make and models you have

where have you got the 150kg from? The recommended nose weight for a caravan is between 5 and 8% So using a set of scales and an axle stand you can adjust things in the caravan, awning etc to achieve your 80kg on the tow ball

Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone here who has worked on the interior trim of an Octavia Mk3 Combi can help me out. I have a 2018 Skoda Octavia Mk3 (5E) Combi/Estate, equipped with the optional rear side airbags in the leather-covered bolsters next to the rear seats. While installing an aftermarket reversing camera and routing the wiring through the car, I accidentally dislodged the right C-pillar trim. I've spent quite some time trying to refit it, but I can't get it to sit properly. The main problems are: - The rear section of the C-pillar won't clip properly into the upper right luggage-compartment trim. - The lower front corner, where the C-pillar meets the plastic wheel-arch trim and leather-covered side-airbag bolster, isn't sitting correctly. - I've tried repositioning the trim, but there doesn't seem to be enough clearance to align the locating tabs and clips properly. I've purchased the official Skoda workshop manual (General Body Repairs, Interior – Octavia III, Edition 08.2018). According to the manual, the complete factory removal procedure involves removing the lower wheel-arch trim, which on vehicles equipped with rear side airbags requires removing the airbag assembly. I'd really like to avoid removing the leather-covered airbag bolster, especially after reading about other owners struggling to refit its upper retaining hook. My plan is to: 1. Remove the right D-pillar trim. 2. Release the fasteners securing the right luggage-compartment side panel. 3. Pull the boot-side panel away just enough to gain access, without removing it completely. 4. Fold the rear seat backrest down to gain more working room. 5. Carefully realign and refit the C-pillar, leaving the leather airbag bolster untouched. My questions are: - Has anyone successfully refitted the C-pillar on an Octavia Mk3 Combi using this approach? - Can the right luggage-compartment side trim be loosened enough without removing the leather-covered rear side-airbag bolster? - How exactly should the lower front corner of the C-pillar fit against the wheel-arch trim? Does it slide behind it, overlap it, or engage with a separate clip? - Is there a particular order for engaging the C-pillar's locating guides and clips during reassembly? I've attached photos showing the gaps at both ends of the C-pillar. Any advice, detailed photos or experience from someone who has done this job would be hugely appreciated. I'd like to get everything back together properly without breaking more clips or disturbing the airbag assembly. Thanks in advance!

Hi there as the tittle states I have a Skoda superb 2014 diesel and I'm looking to get a caravan which is a avan ray 2004 with a weight of around 1460kg. I understand it's well within its tow weight, but my concern is the tow ball weight from what I have googled the 2014 Skoda superb has a tow ball weight of 70-80kg and the caravan would have about a 150 kg weight I'm just wondering is it safe to do so with the car? Do I have change any suspension or anything? I have read another post of people easily towing this size and more with this car but the post was from 13 years ago so I thought I would just ask here for help and sorry about the lack of knowledge as I'm very much a novice. Thanks in advance

Hi there as the tittle states I have a Skoda superb 2014 diesel and I'm looking to get a caravan which is a avan ray 2004 with a weight of around 1460kg. I understand it's well within its tow weight, but my concern is the tow ball weight from what I have googled the 2014 Skoda superb has a tow ball weight of 70-80kg and the caravan would have about a 150 kg weight I'm just wondering is it safe to do so with the car? Do I have change any suspension or anything? I have read another post of people easily towing this size and more with this car but the post was from 13 years ago so I thought I would just ask here for help and sorry about the lack of knowledge as I'm very much a novice. Thanks in advance

Hello, I am in the middle of replacing the front suspension on my Fabia mk2 Greenline. I have got most of the bits off that I need to, just got to the front left wishbone bolts. They were really tight to get off. 2 of them have sheared completely & the third one just spins. I can feel the bolt is not spinning, but the nut turns & never moves. I have given them a good clean, incase there was some rust stopping it. I then tried to the drivers side & all 3 of these just spin too, not really tight. I am guessing that I am going to need to cut them off, or is there some trick to this? Any help would be gratefully accepted. Thanks, Matt

This is worthless now. I sold my Mk3 Estate ~18month ago. This torch is not proposed in my Kodiaq Mk1.

Just wondering what people are using in the UK weather as I’m not far off having to change the tyres.

Yea indeed, didn’t think about it, mind you they didn’t seem to be well looked after already

You’ll be ok, they’re fitted to VW so you won’t have to worry your dealer

Yep got it back

Okay, thanks for the feedback 🙂

@Alasdair1 The specification of the tyre fitted to the 16"-diameter wheels of Skoda Fabias Mk4 cars is 195/55 R16 91 V XL with the 91 Load Index figure indicating that the tyre has been tested as being capable of carrying a per-tyre load of 615kg. The V Speed Rating indicates the tyre is suitable for a car with a maximum speed capability not exceeding 240km/h (149mph). And XL indicates Extra Load (ie. reinforced construction). Assuming you plan to fit replacement tyres with that specification, there is plenty of choice at a wide range of prices. Each different tyre should carry a label having the data explained here https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/tyres/what-do-your-tyre-labels-mean/ (The Noise Rating relates to the noise the tyre produced when the vehicle is being drive, but it's reasonable to assume that, if a tyre produces a lot of 'external' noise, that noise will find a way into a car's interior.) However, although the tyre label is helpful and independent testing and car ownership comments can confirm the accuracy of the label, the 'softness' of a 195/55 R16 tyre and its ability to absorb the bumps on poor-quality road surfaces will depend directly on the pressure that the tyre is inflated to. The Skoda recommended pressure for Fabia Mk4 tyres is 2.5 bar (36.26psi). This is on the high side for a car of the Fabia type and undoubtedly will result in a firm/harsh ride, particularly on rough roads. This has been discussed here a couple of times in the past, but, for a genuinely 'softer' ride, the only realistic option is to use a tyre-pressure well below the 2.5bar recommendation - say 2.1bar (30.46psi).

Morning all member - just rejoining the platform West End Garage Skoda Edinburgh | Stirling | Dunfermline

Yep - annoyingly with the maps there is absolutely no feedback loop to tell you it’s running, it’s progress or it’s finished. You either have to check the maps date on the software page or notice an out of date map is updated to be correct.

Could be the dogbone bush is worn or perhaps an engine/gearbox mount. Reckon as its related to accelerator being pressed and lifted it must be engine torque related. If its a metalic clack Worth checking the subframe bolts as well. Alasdair

Thanks manimal69 - that's quite a respectable mpg figure for that power of car on a good long journey- no doubt short / stop - start journeys will knock that down a good bit but it seems like Skodas stated Average mpg figure isn't that far off the mark. ( very unusual for a manufacturer )

Worth logging it before you buy anything else. On the 85kW 1.6 TDI the torque is meant to be there from 1500 rpm (Skoda quote 250 Nm from 1500 to 3000), so a car that feels fine in 1st and 2nd but runs out of puff in 3rd to 5th is usually one that can't hold full boost under real load. In the low gears the revs climb so quickly the engine is never loaded long enough to show it. With VCDS or similar, do a logged pull in 3rd from about 1500 to 3500 rpm at full throttle and record: 1. Boost specified vs actual (on newer VCDS versions these are in Advanced Measuring Values rather than the old group 011). If actual lags well behind specified, a couple of hundred mbar or more, you're looking at a boost leak or sticky turbo vanes. Check every intercooler hose and joint for oil and splits, especially the lower ones, as a small split often only opens up under boost. 2. Air mass specified vs actual. A lazy MAF can do exactly this with no warning light. 3. DPF soot load and differential pressure. At 125k a part blocked DPF will hold the car back more the longer you drive, and that "something holding it back" feeling with higher fuel use fits. The EGR cleaner helping is a clue in itself, as it points at the air side rather than injectors or the clutch. The judder at 1500 in 3rd under load can also be the dual mass flywheel, so if the logs come back clean it's worth getting that looked at. If you post the log up on here people can tell you a lot from it.