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I'm On my second mk3 in last 6 years. Not found any problems other than the odd battery and sensor issues. Buying a used motor , same things need to be checked. ie, make sure it's been regularly serviced etc. I've been very happy with my 1.5 tsi SE L dsg estates. Good luck.

@FramusAz10 What did a battery test show? Have you made any progress on diagnosing your fault?

Does the alloy-block EA211 use cast iron liners?

I made a mistake in my reply - I think Google maps does show fixed speed camera locations. Apologies.

Are there any major things I should be looking out for?

Is that a 1.5 tsi phev? They are on variable oil servicing. Vorsprung Dutch Technik. But if you run one mostly on electric would you leave the same oil in from the factory for 2 years?

Thanks Lee, I was thinking more for future reference regarding the route data. It proved very useful on a previous KIA when I received a parking summons when I wasn't even in the car park. I'm aware something can be retrieved from Google Maps, but this only says where your phone has been not your vehicle

Volkswagen Golf 8 models come set to a flexible (Long Life) service regime by default straight from the factory, I would thought that Octavia / A3 / Leon would be the same?

Hi Numskull, I would like to buy the Brake Pads. How can I pay and get them. I live in South Manchester. Keith

Location location location. Long queuing is not necessary if you are visiting charging hubs with plenty ultra rapid chargers and these are not very busy sites. Towing is an issue as far as charging unless it is the type of charging hubs designed to allow vehicles to charge while still hitched up to what ever and not requiring unhitching and re-hitching. I expect the range with a horse box and horse at the Max Gross weight allowed will be greatly reduced. Could it even be half the range.

never drive engine with any noise. stop at moment. try to find missing part. easiest thru spark plug hole. if valves are not damaged, it will go. if cilinder wall is damaged, its old school cast iron cilinder wall liners which can be machined. no new engine needed.

This can happen if you replace the boot lights with cheapo Chinese LED’s. I know, I’ve done it but I live with it on the basis that I can actually see inside the boot in the dark!

Thanks. Will have a look at this tomorrow. If I can get through there I’ll return the conduit!

hmmm, that i don't know sorry. i do remember reading (back then) that it's "best practice" to stick with the pairs, i.e. 15 with 16; and 17 with 18. however, who knows, perhaps they might work if u interchanged them, i.e. paired 18 with 15.

depends on your driving habits, if you live in colder areas with lot of short starts and stops, short trips, even 0w20 can be ok. i switched to 0w30, 30000 kms is no-go, 15000kms is maximum, i change oil once a year on about 8000-10000 kms, i dont drive much, but my drives are 90% short trips, about 10 kms rush hours. filters are cheap, i take Mann oil filter, Febi, Bluechem or Valeo air and pollen filter for about 8€ each, changing once a year. also aware that on your gearbox service probably has never been done.

At this time, I won’t… My current Kodiaq Mk1 makes an excellent job! 😁 I was only asking myself how long I would need for a 10-80% charge along a holiday trip. 28mn isn’t that long on its own, but if most of the car have such values, it means long queueing to have the battery charged. My holiday trips are all over 500km with 90% motorway. The shortest is around 450km but requires a roof box which shortens the range and makes a battery charge mandatory anyway. Additionally, I may have to tow a horse van 2 or 3 times a year over 300km. I guess battery charge will be necessary in this case too…

Got it, thanks! By the way, do you know if both headlight units should be the same generation? (015-016 or 017-018, in part numbers). Found a good deal for a 015 left unit and a 018 right unit and Im curious if they would work ok.

on the headlight itself, where the wiring harness plugs into, is different between version A and version B. from memory, there r more pins on version B headlights.

@Binx1310 - when i did my front grille DRL light bar, i ran a cable from the BCM, through the firewall and into the engine bay. its located above the passenger (for RHD cars) footwell. there is NO need to remove the glovebox or the fusebox there. u will need to remove the battery though, which u've done, to pull the wire through. no need to remove the airbox either. close up of the grommet ..... grommet located just above where the felt ends...... blue line showing the path

Ok, but what did you mean by "different pin arrangements"?

no, the wiring harness on the car side does not need to change. in other words - it caters for both version A and version B headlight plugs. i didn't have to change or modify anything with the wiring harness when i switched from A to B.

Well good that the problem is solved! I failed to suggest the haldex I thought you had read pages in here and Bap's excellent procedure for checking the pump screen which indeed is a serious f-up as an entire concept, not to mention service/maintenance procedures do not include it ... All good I guess, pity at the tremendous amount of parts and work that was done .... now make sure you rev up a little that thing, life is not under, but upwards of the turbo spin! 😁😅

East or West, your choice. The are very outdated anyway...

All I can say is, it's worked for me! Car seems smoother somehow, and fuel economy has improved. Could be the new DV valve, could be the deletes, could be replacing hoses when installing the catch can. I've been driving around for about ten days since I did all this- on day 3, I got engine light P0411 (secondary air intake incorrect flow). Erased it expecting it to come back but it hasn't yet. One thing I did, because it was playing on my mind, was to buy an upgraded crankcase breather pipe adaptor. The existing 90 degree pipe was pretty new, but the tension of the new hose was pulling it down a bit, cos my 'U' clip didn't clamp very well. (I actually tried making one but it was difficult and no better). So I got the 'upgraded' adaptor and tweaked the hose in this area, cos I wanted to get things as airtight as I could I also made a simple retainer to keep that damn 'U' clip in place (probably overkill, the new fitting seems well seated and doesn't move) This is just one snag I encountered, and dealt with, that others may find useful

I got all the work done after about 2 weeks; I've put my progress in the ' OCC install' thread Bowders wrote (Octavia 'guides' section). No point in repeating it here. After doing it, the whole system makes a lot more sense now. Car is much smoother and fuel economy has improved; I probably do still have air leaks in places but haven't yet done a simple vacuum test (I'm just happy I got it all done without assistance, apart from the guides and help on this forum). Oil leak is still there but much reduced; it's the turbo pipes I think.I'll leave that to a professional, I don't really know where to start and might make things worse