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Sorry, but I'm not kicking off, just making a statement. Factual information could be construed as misinformation by anybody who either does not want to accept that the information is factual even though it is supported by evidence. The name of this thread is "the truth about electric cars", so is it not a fact that some truths will be pleasant and accepted, while other truths won't be accepted but will still be true just the same?

Hi I haven’t managed to solve the problem. I am hoping someone else on the forum might have some ideas. Recently I personally checked the power to the fuel plug. When car is on it gets 14v on one pin and 1.7 on the other pin. This should mean the wiring is ok. The resistance of the fuel pump solanoid is 1.8ohms (measure across the pin) . Apparently this is within tolerance . My Research still suggests the replacement used fuel pump I bought is faulty. So it looks like I need to get a new replacement pump. I can only find cheap import fuel pumps for £70 to £90 (unbranded I think) Anyone suggest what else’s could be wrong or which fuel pump to buy?

I have a manual, and when I switch on the engine, I can also hear a motor running for a few seconds. I've always taken it to be the sensors waking up, which is why I never try to turn over the engine until the noise stops. However, I don't have a clunk after the motor noise does stop

Bloody eco warriors 😆

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Thats something I didn't think of, will check later. 👍

Might sound odd, but check the engine mounts, mine was doing this and I knew my engine mounts were dead, when I put an insert in the dog bone mount it went away. I guess it was just the engine wobbling about under braking load.

Recently upgraded to newer iPhone with USB-C connection rather than lightning. So today’s task was routing a new 90degree USB-C cable from the rear ashtray through to the armrest cubby to replace the lightning one. I pulled the old one out with some wire attached and used it to pull the new one through. All done and dusted in 5 mins. Hopefully get a chance to change front brakes and have a go at installing the aftermarket blind spot kit this week.

Don’t kick immediately after I’ve unlocked it, or it will just get locked again and will stay like that.

The problem with misinformation is that it may not be actual misinformation but factual information based in information that is not yet general knowledge.

Thanks for confirmation.

Aaaannnnd…. We’re reopening after a little break and getting the room painted a more tranquil shade of “let’s all get along beige”. So let’s all remember to play nice, not spread misinformation, don’t scare monger, don’t try bait for reactions and don’t be attacking each other on a personal level.

its fairly thick as I had to remove some to patch sills on my old octavia. Its good protection but on mine over time moisture got behind it and ended up with holes. Weird thing is my sons mk1 is a few years older 55 plate and its still perfect but my 58 plate octavia is now a parts donor car as sills have gone past repair. Alasdair

You might investigate a charger in a garage / handy shed or mounted on a post by your drive before giving up on home charging.

I have done this to my own Fabia Colour Edition. I purchased mine from Skoda Parts: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6va853687a041-inscription-skoda-46996.html You can also find options for black Fabia badges but I opted not too. It is a qenuine part and it arrived quickly.

This is one of the sills on my Fabia.

Hi, I'm coming from an older Octavia and looking potentially at a Karoq or Kodiaq. The Octavia was great in that you could change various settings as best suited (including any driver aids) and the car permanently remembered. I'm aware that the new EU regs (that we have copied) have mandated a different approach (settings revert to scratch for each journey). With effect from ~2022-2024 depending on how respective brands have chosen to implement it? Do any of you guys know what the cut-off points are for the two cars above, ie, when these two models above enforced the new EU regs? I was under the impression (from a local dealer) that for the Karoq it was potentially all models post the new face-lift at the start of 2022? Depending on whether the hardware was in place for a particular model (which could then be updated via software)? But I've no idea for the Kodiaq? Is it perhaps similar in that it's the new model which is the cut-off point? Ie, this model Mk1 (on this sub-forum) is fine, but avoid the Mk2? Or is it different - perhaps just date driven? It'll potentially save me otherwise wasted time on searches / exploring if I can get the broad timings right? Ie, which more current versions to steer clear of. Many thanks.

Installed SW Train Version: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T Installed SW MU Version: 0245 Part Number: 5Q0035840A Software Version: H25.14.78_STD2Plus_EU

Silly question, are they the same size?

Thanks for that, that is what my 2018 Fabia estate has on the sills. I assume therefore it is a factory finish.

I have a rattle at low speed when breaking or accelerating and on rough roads . it sounds like a lose nut or ball bearing moving an under the phone box area. I cannot work out how to get the covers off to have a look. Any ideas appreciated . i will look to book into dealers but some distance away . Had the car 6 weeks 2.0 Tsi L&K

On my mk2 octavia and sons mk1 fabia the lower outer sill and inner has an orange peel effect which is thick plastic stone chip protection then overpainted with gloss colour. They both have(had) clear plastic on rear wheel arch/sill area Alasdair

No, it was there before. I only bought other wheels as they were better than the originals and came up right price locally so too good to miss. Originals have lacquer peel n blisters under the paint.

Dir the problem only start after swapping wheels and tyres?