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Hi again, Okay, I left it on charger for the day and then disconnected battery and put the throttle body back in place. I then connected battery and did the 3 min with key on and it went through a bit more movement than it was last night. I then turned key back off and back on then started it. EPC light still on but limp mode gone. Drove it around a bit and EPC light stayed on. Got back to house shut it off and started it again and EPC light went off… no idea but seems to be fine. I still have the cord coming so will try and see if it gives any info when it comes but maybe a slightly low battery was causing issues? No idea what else it could have been. Thanks for the responses, always good to have someone responding when fighting through these things. Thanks, DDW

Hi all can anyone identify these wheels may not be Skoda but has VRS centre caps. They are on a 2016 Superb Estate.

Got bored tidying the shed so went up floors castle this afternoon. Take a macro lens but wind was gusty so not much luck.

Just looked at a 2023 registered Kodiaq sportline, was trying to configure the dashboard to have rev counter to left and speedo dial to the right ...all traditional as it were fillowing test drive. Couldn't manage it, all i could have was largish central speedo with vaious ancillaries to left and right, is there more than one style of Electronic/virtual dash available as some photos clearly show it as possible? Apologies if this has been raised/answered before. Await a response, cheers.

If the car is too low, the springs are not stiff or long enough. That is a very clear explanation for the car hitting the end stops on speed bumps. You have a very common engine (2.0 TDI with DSG), so finding out the correct color code for your springs should be easy. Also, I do not understand your problem with skoda-parts.com. Simply make an account and add your car. If you have two Skoda's, make two accounts (with two different e-mail addresses). And regarding spring length: I already explained to you before that just measuring the free spring length is useless. You also have to compare the stiffness, which is determined by the wire diameter and the number of turns. But it all starts with the original specifications.

Thanks for the reply no other error light doors/ seatbelt appear to be working correctly. Doesn't appear to be a problem with the battery, it was replaced 6 months ago. I tried error checking with Carista and that came up with 8 errors.. I cleared them but 3 returned. 1 with the infotainment system 1 with telematics and 1 with the multi functional module I'm on holiday at the moment so further investigation when I get home

Yes, the new slide pins slide in and out. I used some BTAS ceramic brake lubricant. I made sure I cleaned the face of the hub etc. I picked up a new hub today, so shall fit that tomorrow, fingers crossed this fixes it!

It was indeed broken wiring between the the tailgate and vehicle body. You where spot on thanks so much.

Corrected post.

There is no DPF. it is a 2013 1.8 TSI.

Ignore, I missed that it' a TSI! ☹️ I'd walk away from that - that yearly mileage for the past three years will not have done any favours to the DPF - if it's actually still in place (should be MOT failure if removed). DPF regen history would make interesting reading!

. @reedy10 Welcome to the forum. I am pretty deaf but it sounds pretty rubbish. Have you seen and read the Pinned thread on the 1.8TSI & 2.0TSI,s at the top of the Octavia Mk2 Forum? Maybe this engine has had work done, or maybe it could be an excessive oil drinker. 1.8TSI,s are a lottery. 76 pages of many horrors. Any record showing spark plugs changed any time recently, or air filter?

Dealer. 53 k miles, definitely matches mot. Been driven last 3 years 2 - 3 thousand a year only. No record of exvess use. Tes tappety sounds right. Ither than this the car looks great.

Thanks for the replies all. After a month I finally got the second key, which meant I had to go back to the garage, a trip of 83 miles, so it could be co-ordinated in, took an hour. Free of course. I had to chase them a bit but all's well in the end.

Extremely unlikely that the VAG product has any 'magic ingredient' in it, just buy a reputable silicone grease.

Welcome to the forum. Is this private or dealer sale? What is recorded mileage, does this match MOT history? I don't hear anything particularly unusual with that recording, possibly a little 'tappety' is there any record of excess engine oil use? Strongly suggest getting an independent vehicle inspection though.

You are correct, car can potentially blind incoming traffic in auto mode because of the central barrier and how late will recognize incoming cars. So this is not perfect solution but I believe the best we've got at the moment. And that is why I mentioned that I personally don't use auto mode on motorway unless it's quiet and not so many cars. I don't think Skoda would offer repair to millions of cars( European drivers have same problems) for free even if they would recognize problem on my appointment. Most likely they would do exactly the same thing that this guy did to help me sort it out. But I agree, that is potentially solution causing blinding drivers if used on busy motorway. As per GPS slowing car in 30mph zones as an example, I can't comment as my car hasn't got sign recognition so I never relied on it.

I've earmarked all I need to change the plugs on my iV's 1.4 engine. The only thing I'm unsure of is that in the workshop manual it states I should coat the base of the ignition coils with silicone paste. Apart from the price, is there anything exceptional about VW OEM silicone grease? If I want to buy non-OEM, is there anything I should be looking out for?

Hello fellows and ladies, I would like to ask You for a help with my recent problem with my Karoq 1.5 MY2020 Day by day, the right rear LED suddenly stopped working (it dimmed, it is not fully 100% light?) Has anyone experienced a similar issue? Is it something I can fix myself? Is there a way that led bar can be replaced, or does the entire rear light part need to be replaced? I already checked the Fusebox - all good there. I cleaned all connectors with contact cleaner and scrap them a bit to made better connection for ground. I also read on diffrent forum that someone had similiar issue and some kind of PCB module had "cold solder joints" but I couldnt reach that person that he would explain what and where exatcly. So this is by far everthing that I had in mind to check, Any more clues and information I would be grateful Thanks in advance

Hi Issue: Over a longer journey the air coming into the cabin reduces and gets warm. If the aircon is switched off the air blowing into the cabin increases significantly, if after a few mins the aircon is switched back on the pressure of air coming into the cabin remains constant but it now cools again. Under the car is a pool of water. Internet search: The search results suggest a faulty interior evaporator sensor, part number 5Q0 907 543 A. Which causes the compressor to run permanently, this causes continuous cooling and ice to form on the fins (apparently). Challenge: There is no video showing how to remove the lower dashboard panel below the steering wheel on a RHD car (which is where it suggests I need to access to replace the sensor). Firstly have I got the right place for a RHD car, secondly does anyone have any pictures/manuals, showing the removal of the lower dashboard on the drivers side for a RHD car? Or better still a video/still images of replacing the actual sensor. Thanks in advance!!!

I’d check the folder structure first, because with these Skoda/VW map updates you normally can’t just copy the downloaded parent folder onto the SD card. The files and folders that the car expects usually need to be directly in the root of the card, exactly as they were arranged in the original update. Also, the formatting could be the problem. Depending on which infotainment/navigation unit you have, exFAT may not be supported even if the Mac lets you format the card that way. I’d check the exact requirements for your 2015 unit and try FAT32 if that is what the update instructions specify. One more thing: if this is the original navigation SD card, some Skoda systems use a specific card that is tied to the unit. In that case, formatting it or replacing it with another card can stop the navigation from recognizing the data at all. So before copying anything again, I’d check: exact infotainment system, required SD-card format, and whether the contents of the update need to be placed directly at the card’s root. The multiple folders in the download are usually all part of the map package, not separate optional folders.

Have you checked the brake servo vacuum hose for splits or cracks at the junctions of the hard plastic sections?

You just clean what you can without moving the butterfly, which is 98% of it. They don't sit fully closed when unpowered if I remember right. So far I don't know which engine type you have, so it's hard to know specifics.

That sounds like there may be a sensor fault preventing the activation. IIRC Seat belt & drivers door switch are involved, are they working ok ? According to AI ( which of course could be wrong! ) A Škoda "Auto Hold currently unavailable" warning means the system cannot maintain brake pressure at a standstill. It is usually caused by an unfastened seatbelt, an open driver's door, a weak 12V battery, or a temporary electronic glitch. Normal braking remains fully operational.