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Not sure on the shudder but that collection of lights usually means a communication issue between control modules, which is commonly caused by low battery voltage. How new is the battery?

700 miles in a day driving would be 14 hours or more. Sounds like BS if the car / vehicle has one driver. Taxis might well be doing that with more than one driver.

I believe I have seen someone on another post on here someone state that the lock has some relatively poor quality internal switches which detect the state. I would think swapping out the latch mechanism is probably the solution. I have a copy of the workshop manuals I can share if you need the instructions.

Thanks Gaz. Appreciated. No boroscope but I think pretty sound reasoning, sadly. That said, I'd be delighted to be wrong so I'll lay it all out here. (And if someone wants to buy it as-is, I want to do it honestly and not screw the next guy over.) The car felt fine but kept going into limp home mode on longer journeys with rev restriction to 4000rpm. I took it to my regular independent who's looked after me over the years, had it traced to oil pressure switch 3, had a coolant regulator valve fixed. It kept happening and my usual garage couldn't find a cause. I noticed the engine oil temperature would reach 110C and the warning would be triggered. I took it to a local independent specialist who serviced it, noticed: "Fault found with oil pressure switch 3, p168d00, checked tpi's and none applicable. Carried thorough test plan and unable to fault and states system has no defect. Removed oil filter housing and found debris within filter. Advise oil and filter change and oil set at correct level and advise customer to monitor as fault is only sporadic". They estimated £390+VAT to pull the engine apart to find more of a cause so I took it to a 3rd garage, another independent specialist: "Checked fault codes found code P000A camshaft position sensor A component sluggish. This code together with the history of swarf in the oil and P168D oil pressure switch code is a sure sign that the oil pressure to the camshaft adjusters is dropping. As this is happening when the engine is at operating temperature I would suspect that components inside the engine are worn to a point where oil is leaking past excessively once the oil thins at temperature. This will be causing the oil pressure to drop and the code to log. It will also have a snowball effect as more wear happens the oil contains more swarm that causes more wear. The only reasonable solution at this point is a complete engine replacement or engine rebuild. Including a new oil pump, oil cooler and turbocharger oil feed and return lines." So it's pretty damning. Oddly, if it weren't for the restriction on max revs I wouldn't know- it isn't rattling and feels like it drives fine. There aren't any warning lights in between, only after it gets up to higher temps and the warnings go away when it's cooled down again.

Amazing!. What a great car!

I did 5 to 6 speed gearbox swap for my 2002 Mk1 Octavia TDI after a couple years ownership from new. Aside from the gearbox including gear selector on top, reverse switch and speed sensor, you will need matching gearbox mount and its console, dogbone mount, driveshafts, flywheel and clutch including slave cylinder and related piping, and a whole lot of new bolts as a lot are stretch bolts. Ironically, the gear lever and linkage fitted both old 5-spd and new 6-spd, so I did not bother replacing the gearstick nor linkage and had a "secret" 6th gear for the life of the car, ie still 5 gears+ reverse printed on the gearstick yet the 6th could be selected. Aside from this, the airco piping is usually different between 5 and 6 speed gearboxes, but I was able to get round this by fabricating an additional mount (just a small piece of steel bar with a couple holes). Speed sensor needed adaptation somewhere using VCDS, but the difference was not massive. In summary, it was quite a bit of hassle getting all the parts and then a half day of work. For me, the reduced revs on motorway were worth it though, both for comfort and for fuel bill. At least at autobahn speeds of 100mph+ I estimated that the saved fuel has more than paid for the outlay on gearbox swap over the 80k or so autobahn miles. Note at UK motorway speeds the fuel saving would likely be minimal, and at current diesel prices at least it makes financial sense to go slow anyway. Also note that this was 22 years ago, and since then Adblue injection and engine cooling layout changes went in, so there may be other parts that interfere and may need replacement. HTH

@Scratch You need to reset SmartLink to factory settings through setup. @ovidex You don't need to remove board, just remove cover.

Emergency - Esc fault on the dash, saying take car to workshop. Map detail disappearing leavimg just the car icon on a blank screen. message saying smart road sign not functioning or something like that, it didn't stay on long enough to see it all. Booming/Echoing in the cabin. When driving I felt I was fighting the car.

Got the rest of the axle painted roughly in hammerite black. It still needs more time to set up, but in the meantime I squitted this out of my tiny cricut as a stencil for the yellow paint I got. It's sticky backed stuff, so i should be able to slap it on the axle, mash around it and go to town for a few coats of yellow. Hopefully that will produce sharp enough text to be readable after 50,000 miles. After it's coloured in, I'll shove some top clear coat over it to try and protect it a bit.

I wouldn’t be so sure - there’s a reason we call them “Stealers” over here! By the sounds of it, it’s not a faulty fastener, per se, but one that hasn’t had the correct treatment. I think if it was a serious issue, they would be a bit more proactive. Over here, we can check the UK Government website for our MOT (your ITV test) and check for any recalls on our vehicles - maybe you have something similar? Eso incluye sentarse junto a un tornillo oxidado? ;)

Hello, it seems that I can't connect the chip. I can't manage to remove the board from the chassis and a I can't connect while the board is still on. Any suggestions would be appreciated on how the remove the board. Thanks

Sorry, all went automatically for me. 🤷‍♂️

There’s no oil around it, but my previous car—a Renault Megane—had a mount like that too; it was soft and wobbly, whereas it had been firm when new. The Škoda is 7 years old and has 100,000 km on it.

Afternoon all, My 2016 Superb started a slight shudder when driving normally and has subsequently got worse. Now when it shudders various dash lights come on, systems say not functions, ACC, Park Assist, Tyre Pressure Warning etc and the car goes into limp mode. Had to pull over, with the car off and then back on to clear the issue. Was infrequent but became regular. Went to my local VAG specialist who checked the fault codes and said the code related to wires down the side of the engine may be causing a short, which he checked and confirmed was ok. Had a really noisy grumbling mass clutch flywheel, has done 128K, garage said could be the speed sensor on the clutch assembly causing issues, so suggested a new clutch pack. New clutch pack fitted this week, but fault remains. Sat idling this week, engine switched off, then back on, did this twice. Car shudder and lights on twice today, cleared by swiping off and on. Suspect a return visit to the garage, but think they may be struggling. Anyone experienced this before, any ideas or suggestions on what may be the cause would be welcomed. Many thanks in advance Tony

It's difficult when you have elderly parents and one of them makes stuff up all the time instead of looking properly and giving you the right information.

This pipe you had picture is big one from PCV valve to intake. Tiny pipe on my pic is one that cracks and only on part where is ribbed, go to your friend to take it of engine, and repair part that have leaks. I uset rubber tape, for me best material, go to 90°C. New pipe is 170€ in skoda-parts

This thread has contains a nice guide from one user for how to do it and where you can download the FW files from... From memory there was another dedicated thread to this update but I can't seem to find it. The most important is to know the firmware you have and how many steps you need to get to the latest one. You also need a tool like OB11 or VCDS which can send the confirmation code after the firmware update... If I understand correctly, this last part is not mandatory but it will remove a permanent fault from the infotainment unit about the update.

That's one heck of an increase! Thinking out loud - not had any recent work done on the car? MoT? - my cars always dip once back from MoT, and either slowly recover, or come back if I remember to reset the values. Does it smell like it's running rich? I'd have thought an injector fault would throw up a code. You mention drag - does it feel like it's labouring? No changes in temperatures? Agree with others about confirming it by fill-up quantities and mileage covered to get an exact figure. I use Fuelly, which works well for me. Mysterious 🤨 - will be interesting to know what's up. Gaz

What were the faults you had with the Karoq?

It isn't my car I was just asking g others thoughts but it turns out my mother has made a bleeding huge mistake by assuming a number on the invoice not in the mileage box and 0 in the mileage box was the mikesx she hadn't checked the bloody car odo. So they have not done galactic mileage in the car but they were still crap at most other things. It's difficult when I live 60 miles away as I can't just pop down to check things and I asked her to check, I should have made her take a picture of the odo in the car. I now need an admin to do some editing for me on my post 🤔

You say volume and pitch do not change with speed, does the frequency change? Could it be saw-toothing of tyre treads?

Is there a really simple guide to manually updating the FW on a UK spec 2021 iV L&K?

Hi I'm in the midst of buying a car during an approved used event that's currently running. My intention was buying outright but the dealership suggested taking it on PCP in order to benefit from £750 towards the finance. They said if I cancel after the first 3 payments and pay the remaining balance outright then I'm still eligible for the £750 but won't be penalised with years of interest. My extensive AI conversation about buying the car suggested that under consumer rights I can actually cancel within a 14-day cooling off period and still not be penalised. Does anyone know which is accurate? Is the whole 3 month thing just down to a commission payment for the salesperson or do I actually need to pay the 3 months to keep the £750 bonus? Thanks!

Hello there! First of wanna say thanks for this forum, figgured it was time to finaly make an account as this forum have been a good resource iv kept stumbeling uppon as im fixing up this "beater octavia" i got for dirt cheap a month ago. She might look pretty in the picture, gets up and move pretty well with the 1.8tsi 180hp, 4x4 and dsg - a plessure to drive i must say, plessanly supprised with how nice she is to cruise and thats me comming from a a6 c7 allroad, audi e-tron etc. But she have issues, there are rust, dings, scratches and general signes that she had a though life. The car was bought on an impulse a friday morning a month ago as both me and my sister needed a backup car for a little while, my audi and sisters subaru (rustbucket!) was due for its bi-yearly "road legal inspection" the same week. both need a fair bit of of work, especially the subaru where i need to reconstruct a good chuck of the rockers and inner structure (takes time for a it guy where the welding skill is "can somehow stick metal together"). And my schedule have been crazy lately so spare time to work on our cars have been more or less non existant. Back to the project Skoda! I got here cheap as the guy i bought it from had given up, had "engine noice" and check engine light he could not figgure out. he even did a timing chain kit... The Skoda jumped the repair queue as it looked like a farly quick doing and the inspection was due on this one aswell. When i looked at it before buying I had a suspision that it was the vvt solinoid causing the noice and engine light - It was!, there was also a coolant leak from the waterpump and a connecting piece, did new rear breaks, 3d-printet a repair for the handbrake (Thank you forum member here!) - and she passed here inspection ;) These cars are know to rust a bit in norway, and she have door handel and rear quarter rust. ignored the doors for now but the inner finder, rearquarter and rear sub fram got a full spa treatment and while the body had some rust the octavia is solid and after some treatment should last for a good long time. Now she is street legal and a absolutly fantastic car to drive! Almost thought of keeping this beater for my self replacing the A6 allroad for daily driving, did not help the A6's case that in the past 3 weeks the air suspension have started to leak and im having transmission trubbles... Its "only" done 285.000km, a bit early for a VAG dsg trans to have its first issues, right? 🤣 While the engine sound and pulls nicely, all is not well. After replacing coolent parts and while bleeding the cooling system i got low oilpressure warning... done some minor stuff to hoping it would solve it, and yesterday i did an oil pump. still have some hot idle pressure issues that needs further investigations but that is for later and a dedicated post. Well this turned in to a long post.. But again, thanks for the forum!

We bought it second hand when it was 6 years old with 118k miles, put another 150k miles on over 10 years, it was a 2009 car. Sold it a year ago.....great car.